Looks like you have the engine battery, and possibly the switch, back with the receiver battery and receiver, and possibly the throttle servo up front. IMO, this is backwards. All electrical components for the ignition (including the battery, ignition box, and switch) should be up front and as far from the control components (receiver, servos, switch, regulator, etc) as you can get them. I also always mount my throttle servo (it is part of the control system) back with the radio and use Nyrod to go to the engine. Interference can be sent through anything connected to the ignition box. Also make sure no metal is vibrating. I see you used nylon connections to the carburetor and that it good.

I have nyrod for the throttle linkage. I will try moving the switch and battery forward and see what hapens. Thanx

Hi. My name's Ken. Been flying R/C for 43 yrs. now. Here's my 2 cents:

ram3500-RCU is absolutely correct. You cannot mount the ignition switch and battery as you did. They must have a physical separation from ALL flight electronics of at least 12 inches. Make sure that the throttle servo is not mounted closer than 12 inches as well, and onlu use a NyRod or the Sullivan graphite impregnated rod (still nylon, graphite stiffens/stabilizes it) for the linkage and use a ball link or swivel link only on the ends. Your installation violates these rules, and must be corrected. Move the ignition switch, and battery forward to get the 12 in. separation. Also, make sure to secure the ignition box better. The way you have it, it can vibrate loose from the strap with disaster the result.

Some guys claim they can get away from the 12 inch rule, but don't believe it. The ignition components must have this degree of separation. (if cannot get a full 12 in., then separate as much as you can. OK?)

Do this, and you should be good to go.

I had another fine day at the flying field with the new DL100. What can I say: it’s a hoot! There’s no problem pegging the fun meter with this one.

The carb tunes a bit different from the 50. On the 50, the high speed circuit has almost no effect on the midrange but on the 100, it definitely does. The midrange won’t smooth out with any richness on the high speed circuit. The 50 also runs fine with the needles close to where they ought to be but the 100 wants them set. It’s not difficult to tune, it’s just more sensitive to being out of tune.

Tuned “right’, it’s a bit cold blooded and requires the choke before each flight. It also takes a brief warm up to get the transition not to stumble. Some may consider this a bother but the reward is a very smooth midrange and an absolutely phenomenal transition. This thing responds to throttle like nothing I’ve ever experienced.

The 26B Vess is spinning 7100rpm on the ground now. The way the engine sounds, performs and flies the plane I have no desire to change props. I’ll try some others soon as I’m sure people are wondering about comparisons but I’m having so much fun with it it’s hard to remember to be analytical.

I did remember to keep track of gas consumption. 15 minutes in the air used about 20oz. Remember though that this airframe is on the light side and heavier ones will need more throttle for similar flight. When we start flying the CAP 580, it’ll be outfitted with a 30oz tank.

FWIW, the engine has passed my “test� and I’m going to be happy to sell and support them. Congratulations DL, you have another winner here. Release date has been estimated at May 20th so shipments should start soon thereafter.

Regards,
Bob
www.dlusa.net

What kind of reciever FM, PCM, or 2.4?

I have mine set up with both batteries together and a steel threaded rod to the throttle and plastic ball links on both ends. No interference here oh and I'm using 2.4. Many hundred flights with no problems.

From what I have read 2.4 is much more forgiving and almost immune to ignition problems. I have switched all of my gear over to 2.4 and have had no problems as well so I suspect he is running FM or PCM.

dido on the 2,4 best move ever, to much work to make sure everything is 12'' inches away

I'm using FM. Still can't quite afford the 2.4 retrofit on my radio, but that's my next purchase. I'll move everything around and report back. Thanx guys.

is that the (KING JAMES VERSION)

Yes Sir. The true Word of God for the english language. I'm currently in the process of moving things around to get rid of my interfearance problem. I appriciate all the feed back.

The FM is known for this and you have to have everything set -up just right the ignition needs to as far from the servos and wires for the servos and it would help to run twisted servo wire. This includes the Battery for the ignition.

If your radio has the capblities run a pcm reciever, that will help a great deal.

What he said....lol...pic of my extra with DL and ES pipe on previous page in this forum,....you'll love it!!!

12" length, 25mm drop KS stainless Steel solid header.

Guys, i have put about 3-1/2 gallons through it. I know it isn't completley broken in but i just can't get the mid range to stop burbling and missing. My question is, how do u know when the low end is too lean. I did the fix on the carb that runs a line from that little pressure whole on top of the carb. I am still new to gasser tuning. It is not like the engine runs like ****. I can go through all my aerobatics without concern of it quiting. However, inverted flight along with verticle flight lets the engine run so smooth. I just can't seem to get there with my tuning.

Also, I have it set for a high and low idle. Since this is ony a small plane, 13#, i need the low idle to land. The low idle is fairly reliable except for the couple seconds the plane slows down after tuch down. The engine just always dies. Sometimes if i goose the throttle for a second it does fine but if i forget it is a 200ft walk. Really anoying.

What am i doing wrong

Cameron

Cambo,

You might try flipping your carb 180. I had a DL that exhibited similar characteristics after touch down.. plus it didn't idle as well as my other two DL's. I flipped the carb, and it idle 100x better. I'm not sure, if this will fix your problem... because there are a bunch of other variables in play.

Like frieshoo says, LOTS of variables. However, most burbling is low end rich. Tell us how the engine starts. Easy? Do you have to flip several times after the choke run to get it going?
Low end affects high end, so....if your high end is set "right", as you lean the low end, you'll need to back out the high just a skosh.
Lean the low end, after the engine is FULLY warmed up (after a flight would be ideal, as long as you're not overheating). Adjust it CW until on RAPID throttle up there is a bog or hesitation. Rapid as in "dump the throttle". That really is the only sure way to know if you're too lean low side.

The burbling and spittin' is nearly always, at least on my 3 DL's "always", too rich low end.

What is everyone using for a throttle arm? The one supplied on the carb butterfly or something else? I'm new to this so pardon the dumb question. Also, the "return" spring...do I remove it or just leave it alone? Some help please.

Dave

If you have a blue metal arm that is included in many Hitec servos, it will work perfectly. See my webpage for a good how to about that. Same with removing the "tang" of the throttle return spring. I just snip the U bent part that hooks over the shaft plate. You want to leave the SPRING in place, because it acts as a spacer for the shaft/body, and keeps the butterfly from wobbling/wearing in the venturi.

Most folks add a small metal arm (generally the little blue aluminum arm that comes with Hitec servos) right on top of the existing arm. The Hitec arm is too short to use for a regular control surface arm but it works great for this purpose. Just remove the bolt that holds the stock arm on, Put the Hitec arm on top of it and bolt it back on. Then I add a small nut/bolt through the existing hole in the stock arm through a new hole in the Hitec arm. See pic.

As to the spring, clip the hook off the end but do not remove the spring.

I use these. They work great.
http://shopping.netsuite.com/s.nl/c....it.A/id.644/.f

GREAT info and feedback! I do in fact have a surplus of those blue servo arms.
Thanks a bunch!

Dave

Can anyone enlighten me as to where to purchase the spring that lives inside the shielded spark plug cover? Evidently I accidently "loaned" it to the neighbor via air mail and now we cannot find it in the grass!!!!!

Would hope to buy it locally at a small engine repair center maybe with the complete shielded plug cover.

Thanks in advance for any information you guys might have.

John

I've replaced mine with a spring from a hardware store. It was labeled as a #11. The spring doesn't need to be an exact replacement, as long as it maintains solid contact between the plug cap and the plug. I recommend using an ohm-meter to check for connection between the ignition box and the head of the engine with the engine running to ensure the spring is doing it's job.

I'll be starting mine in a couple of weeks. I have found that the spring in the cap is really strong. I'm affraid I might break something trying to press it on the spark plug. Is there a trick to it?
Edwin

Whole Plug cap assembly

http://dlenginesaustralia.com/dlshop...d&productId=78

Or Just the spring

http://dlenginesaustralia.com/dlshop...d&productId=92

Cheers

Scott
DL Engines and Hobby Australia