tym2brn

I will get some more photo's over the weekend and get them posted

tym2brn

try this again, I will the measurements of the can,and some more photos this weekend

Bob Pastorello

My Feedback: (198)

The plate mounted to the butterfly shaft that we usually attach our "real" throttle arm onto. Their is nearly always a small "hook" of the shaft spring that engages that plate to return it to throttle butterfly fully closed. That hook of the spring is what you remove.

flaminheli

Thanks Bob, I got it snipped off. The servo should like it a little better.

Bob Pastorello

My Feedback: (198)

Yes, it should. But remember that your only "manual" kill available now is either closing the choke with a servo, or closing the throttle butterfly completely. If your TX or throttlw linkage isn't up to that, you may want to consider an electronic kill, which many of us routinely use.

flaminheli

I can use the throttle cut on the transmitter or the Opti-Kill that is operated from the dial knob on my transmitter.

Bob Pastorello

My Feedback: (198)

Sounds like you have it handled; I just like to be sure that I've covered that "mechanical kill" thing.

littlera

Throttle spring:

On my 26, I lifted the hook on the throttle spring and let it "unwind" to the third hole in the throttle plate. This provides a VERY slight (i.e., the throttle servo will not know the spring is even there) spring load. This will allow the throttle to spring to the closed position should anything come loose. The net result is that the spring unwinds about 1/2 turn.

I was a little concerned that the end of the spring might catch on the throttle plate if I just cut the hook end off.

Randy L.

Pit-Viper 1

My Feedback: (12)

Well I did some prop tests to see what props would get me closer to the desired rpm. This is what I came up with,

Top Flight power point 15X8 wood 8120 rpm's

APC 14X8 9140 rpm's

Master airscrew K-series 14X8 9020 rpm's

These were consistent numbers through out my test.

Now i got another question, in this video do you notice that the hub pulls away from the engine case about 1/16" when I throttle up? Is this ok? It doesn't move at all when it's off, only when it is running and throttled up.

[link]http://www.rcuvideos.com/item/H4TSVZMSS0F7L99H/received[/link]

Shane

Bob Pastorello

My Feedback: (198)

Unfortunately, ground rpms with ANY size engine have very little meaning, unless the individual is testing multiple engine brands, with the same prop, on the same day, etc. etc, and then the comparison value is almost meaningless because a VERY slight mal-adjustment of low or high needle can vary rpm a BUNCH.

The only REAL comparison is flight performance, and that becomes totally dependent on airframe, density altitude, etc.

In general, in the smaller sizes you're running..... an APC - almost ANY APC - will outpull ANY other prop in airborne performance. They are the most accurate airfoils, most consistent prop-to-prop performance, and generally are widely known in the smaller sizes, so there's pretty good comparitive evaluations to read about.

I would never, ever, rely on a ground rpm value, on any engine, to be a predictor of any kind of airborne performance except for the most broad general statements like, "this one works", " this one SUCKS", "this one pulls harder than xxx", etc.

AJsToyz

Its normal depending on the type of bearings in the engine. If its ball bearing I'd say no , if its needle bearings or bushings I'd say normal. Does it show the types of bearings in the manual ? You could take the prop hub off , there should be a nut under there and make sure its tight. It should be considering the engine is running , and seems to run pretty good. Oh Henry ??

FOOPED

My Feedback: (8)

Pitviper is this the engine that made a funny sound before. If so it looks like you spun the bearing in the case or your prop hub nut is way loose. You are right that is not supposed to be that way. Decide to edit this because I have never seen an engine with that much end play on the gas engines I have. Just my reasons and then maybe this is correct for this engine.[]

Pit-Viper 1

My Feedback: (12)

I will check to be sure the hub is tight.

Bob, I understand what you are saying totally. I'm just trying to get in the ballpark as far as which size props to use. At my altitude it is common to have to drop prop diameter one size from what is recommended to achieve good rpm and performance. Gotta say I am jealous of all you guys closer to sea level that get to really enjoy the performance.

Shane

flatspinjim

My Feedback: (3)

I hear ya Viper. One of these days I'll get to fly someplace where they actually have some air!!

Piston

My Feedback: (1)

Hey Shane

I don't see a problem with the crankshaft and its movement. The video is great too. Some crankshaft movement is normal.

I have seen spun bearings in cranks and engines... You would definitely know you have a problem. You would hear a scrapping sound, and the crankshaft would have a wobble that would quickly hurt the engine. I do understand what Fooped is saying also.

Cheers
Henry

Bob Pastorello

My Feedback: (198)

I started RC so long ago in Denver, CO, that we bolted 60 glow engines on 40 airframes and "hoped" they would work "okay".
I can relate, trust me.
Engines and props today are SO much better....but they can't quite make up for density altitude.

Pit-Viper 1

My Feedback: (12)

Thanks Henry, I thought it was ok as its smooth and no wobble at all, just thought I would ask since I noticed it, the prop hub is tight as well. Thanks Guys

Shane

buck1856

My Feedback: (49)

OK,thanks,appreciate it.

Heli-NuBee

Did my first run on the RCGF 45cc engine today. Started very easy with a starter. Ran quite well but I am only getting 6100 to 6200 rpm at WOT with a MA 20x8 maple wood non-prop. Idle was very good with good throttle response. Richening up the high end needle resulted in lowering the rpm by about 100 rpm and leaning the high end needle did not improve the 6100 to 6200 rpm WOT reading. I hope to fly the maiden this next week. Had to delay because of weather but maybe this next week.

Best wishes and good safe flying.

Heli-NuBee (Roger)

perche

I have a SD yak 33% with a Rcgf 62cc. Works great! Did this setup just for fun, The engine has runned 5 liters. Meizlik 23/8 and 6840 rpm.
Guess i need a bigger prop

A werry good and strong engine!!

Thomas

mjamm

T3beatz, where are you getting your RCGF engine graphincs? I seen you said it before, but can't find it back in the forum.

thanks... Mjamm

Mr.FiberOptic

try page 81 scotts rc images
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8508002

Tseres

Got the 20 running today. Sweeeeeeeet!!!

Only had time to run 2 8oz tank fulls. Got 8350 consistent rpm on the seccond tank with a pro Zinger16-6.This was the size Henry told me to brake it in with. As for the Zinger prop,I'd rather brake it then a Xzoar.

Happy Eastyer Everyone.

Old Tom

Bob Pastorello

My Feedback: (198)

Yap! Good theory. Sounds like it's just fine, and that's a good "breakable" Break-in prop...
Happy Easter to everyone, too!

flaminheli

Hang on to that prop for the maiden. Nothin like a disposable prop for the maiden