jedijody,
What brands of pitts style exhaust do you have nowor can obtain that work real good on the DLE30?Any gain or loss on engine performance with them? Thanks Capt,n

Check the website John, no performance loss on them at all and pretty compact.

I agree with you, jedijody. A very good product for the DLE30.

Nice picture of the cut away... I could not get my spring in, maybe I do not know how, and have been flying the DLE 30 without the spring.... seems to be performing well...

The spring goes into the cap large end first. To get it in, squeeze it flat between your thumb and forefinger, push it downinto the cap on it's edge and rotate it down remembering which side is the large end. Then usea small screw driver to push it down the rest of the way and organize the coils inside the cap.</p>

The spring most people talk about is the larger one that goes in the large end of the plug cap...The little spring inside the silicone part of the cap doesn't usually come out and if you look at the cutaway view you can see the end of the resistor just goes through the side of the spring and doesn't always contact it...The spark jumps from the end of the resistor to the spring.....I don't know if the little spring even comes out....
The metal shield on the cap and wire stops RF....If the cap isn't all the way down on the plug it could cause interference...I have taken some of the factory inst alled caps off the wire and the resistor wasn't t here, just a short piece of wire to go into the spring...Works well either way...
No one has ever been able to tell me why a resistor is even needed in a completely shielded system...All mag Zenoahs and Quadra engines use a rubber cap with no shield....They NEED a resistor plug....There is no short thread resistor cap available...None of my Zenoah engines in any of my planes ever used a shielded cap...None of our GT80s in the race planes use shielded caps...

Thanks Jody.... will do...

That is a good question about the resistor. Maybe it helps the spark voltage to build a bit more before it acutually sparks. Or maybe it cuts the voltage down a tad???? Some genius should know ! The metal shielding may be needed for a return ground path to the ignition unit. Not sure though. Capt,n

Jody, looks like I will order one from you very soon! Thanks Jody &amp; mpascual.

PPM and Gasoline with that kinda Ignition is sooner or later a unwanted Ground contact, PCM/2.4 is a solution, FM is prone to RF interferences, no matter what.

We used AM when we started, worked quite well at the time...

And with unshielded ignitions, how'd we do that?

I guess it just worked, Pro Line Custom Comp transmitter, Pro Line servos...still have the 1972 Pro Line converted to Micropro 8000, now FM, still works...Best gimbals ever made....
Resistor plugs....My conversions still use stock Zenoah coils in the stock location with rubber caps...You should know

With my JR...PCM was not a solution...the PPM worked better. Some guys nicknamed the PCM as "programmed crash mode" I do like the New 2.4.....so far ! Capt,n

Yes sir, that I do, and thank you! PCM and 2.4 Ghz are great modulation technologies but not for eliminating stray EMI eminating from somewhere on the aircraft.

Hey Guys, I got to fly my DLE 30cc powered Giles 202 today. I should have left the carb setting I had. It sounded lean &amp; richened it up a a tad, but once I flew it I then realized I just should have let it warm up more than 5 min. I landed and set it back to about where I had it in the first place.

zippi, if you are reading this...the Giles 202like you had flies super good. I tried some knife edge flight and it was the first plane I owned that did not veer towards the canopy. It flew about strait as a arrow in knife-edge flight ! Did several landings too....SOME FUN !!!!! Capt,n

Hopefully I'll get my rf noise problem figured out today, It maybe nothing more that the plug cap not on tight enough.

I was running my DLE 30 last night and it seemed to be vibrating a lot. This is only the second time I ran it, but is this common? I was running a well balanced Xoar 19-8 laminated prop. It seemed a little lean on the low end and richening it did seem to help with the vibration. It still seems to vibrate more than I would like. Could I be getting pre-ignition, and if so how would I know and how would I solve it if I was?

Usually adding fuel will make it rougher. Is this your first gas engine? If so you will find thery viabrate much more than a glow engine because the power pulses are much stronger. Once tuned correctly I find the 30 rather smooth. The so called factory setting are only to get it running. both needles will need to be adjusted for proper operation.

Super08 has it right on. After running and some tunning , I have ran my DLE 30cc on the airplane without any wings on. Got video someplace...may post it here later. Capt,n

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qcNqC...er&amp;list=UL

No, it is my 4th gasser I think. Anyway, it seemed pretty smooth the first time I ran it, but this second time it seemed rougher. Maybe it just needs to break in and get tuned in all the way. Otherwise, this is a real sweet engine. Very high quality product and it starts and runs very easily.
One thing I really like about having the optical engine kill, when you flip the switch on the transmitter, you can hear the spark plug spark if you listen closely. This is nice to verify that you have spark. This has come in very handy with my DL 50.

Well I'm having a problem, I plugged in my rudder only, put the battery next to the rx and plugged it into the rx. so everything was at least 18 inchs apart.
operating the throttle manualy. I"m still getting rf interference.
The cap goes down to the compression ring.
Today the engine seemed to cut out some

Hi Kerwin50, You're probably lot more experienced than me, but isn't the cap supposed to go all the way down to the big hex on the plug? ...... Or is that what you were referring to as the "compression ring"?

T-man49
Mike Brennan
Club Saito #723

Yes the cap must go all the way down and over the hex at the base of the plug. You have to push "real" hard.

If you can remove the cap without a struggle it's not on right.