DLE30!
#2026
Senior Member
ORIGINAL: PlaneKrazee
CH will build you an ignition to run on any voltage you want.
The plastic CH, RCexl and the DLE ignition are all the same.
CH will build you an ignition to run on any voltage you want.
The plastic CH, RCexl and the DLE ignition are all the same.
BCCHI
#2027
Senior Member
My Feedback: (24)
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 855
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Maryville,
TN
ORIGINAL: captinjohn
For what we pay for this RC stuff they should come with a high grade connecter in the first place. If I solder the wires together & get a short it would be hard to undue quick. Or for testing. Just don,t know....
ORIGINAL: fitson
If you are going to change the plugs why not solder the wires together? If you want to put plugs on later not much more work.
ORIGINAL: captinjohn
I was going to post what happened to me. I was re-installing the RCXEL ignition and no spark. I checked the connectors and noticed one of the pins had moved out of place. Got that fixed....but these connectors seem kinda cheap made. I think I will replace with them with much better deans...any input on that? Thanks Capt,n
I was going to post what happened to me. I was re-installing the RCXEL ignition and no spark. I checked the connectors and noticed one of the pins had moved out of place. Got that fixed....but these connectors seem kinda cheap made. I think I will replace with them with much better deans...any input on that? Thanks Capt,n
Maybe DL could do a little work on these engines, and then have a Great Little Engine.
#2029
ORIGINAL: jedijody
Hold the phone! Drill out the hub? Why wouldn't you just do this?
ORIGINAL: hutchi
Mine came today an after grinding down my thinnest wall socket it still wouldn't fit in the hub have to drill out the hub to accept the socket, but this will still be better than drilling those 4 prop bolts. thanks Valley View
Mine came today an after grinding down my thinnest wall socket it still wouldn't fit in the hub have to drill out the hub to accept the socket, but this will still be better than drilling those 4 prop bolts. thanks Valley View
#2030
Senior Member
My Feedback: (4)
Most single bolt hub conversions have a short extension that fits into the hole in the end of the hub..I helps to center the adapter..Doesn't take much...
Drilling the holes in the hub to use larger bolts is no big thing..5mm .8 flatheads are stronger than the little ones the enigne comes with...Takes about 5 minutes..#21 drill and a 5mm tap...
Drilling the holes in the hub to use larger bolts is no big thing..5mm .8 flatheads are stronger than the little ones the enigne comes with...Takes about 5 minutes..#21 drill and a 5mm tap...
#2031
Senior Member
My Feedback: (1)
ORIGINAL: captinjohn
For what we pay for this RC stuff they should come with a high grade connecter in the first place. If I solder the wires together & get a short it would be hard to undue quick. Or for testing. Just don,t know....
ORIGINAL: fitson
If you are going to change the plugs why not solder the wires together? If you want to put plugs on later not much more work.
ORIGINAL: captinjohn
I was going to post what happened to me. I was re-installing the RCXEL ignition and no spark. I checked the connectors and noticed one of the pins had moved out of place. Got that fixed....but these connectors seem kinda cheap made. I think I will replace with them with much better deans...any input on that? Thanks Capt,n
I was going to post what happened to me. I was re-installing the RCXEL ignition and no spark. I checked the connectors and noticed one of the pins had moved out of place. Got that fixed....but these connectors seem kinda cheap made. I think I will replace with them with much better deans...any input on that? Thanks Capt,n
Now that's funny. DA ignitions arrive with a very nice Anderson connector set and the first thing people like to do is cut them off and install JR plugs. The Andersons are among some of the high end connectors made but people fail to secure them and let them flop around in flight so they eventually disconnect and fail the engine. Everyone blames the connectors....
Now the RC Exl has the type of connectors that everyone changes to when they have a DA ignition but they now become upset that the pins can move around a little. Is anyone smarter than the connectors? Put a small dollop of hot melt glue or silicone on the wires where they enter the connector. It's not that hard to outsmart a connector folks.
#2033
Senior Member
My Feedback: (4)
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 2,251
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Blackfoot ,
ID
Although I have seen a little of the pins slipping, it has not been much of a problem for me over the years. I always use some sort of a restraint to keep the connections together, Either a ready made or just simple dental floss works ok, just don't use the waxed kind the knots won't stay tight. And above all don't let any connection flop around in the wind, the use of a few zip ties in places will stop that.
#2034
Senior Member
My Feedback: (1)
The typical JR/Futaba/Hitec connector is not a very high tech piece of equipment and always have permitted some amount of pin movement. Other areas of small aviation recognized this a long time ago and either corrected the problem with a method of preventing pin movement or changed to another type of connector. Better connectors cost more money, and even a few pennies can make some people squeal, so they have remained what they are for decades. As previously noted, one engine manufacturer tried to provide their customers with an excellent connector but the customers weren't smart enough to recognize the better mouse trap.
#2035
Thread Starter
Senior Member
My Feedback: (1)
ORIGINAL: captinjohn
Very good...but why cut the hex portion back so far? It would be better to have nut flush with crankshaft end. Better holding & more of the hex is there in case you want to remove to do repairs later if needed. Capt,n
Very good...but why cut the hex portion back so far? It would be better to have nut flush with crankshaft end. Better holding & more of the hex is there in case you want to remove to do repairs later if needed. Capt,n
#2036
I Had the pleasure this morning of meeting with Tom Fawcett of Wild Hare Hobbies in Flower Mound, Tx. I have seen his website and decided to drive there and look at his shop. Much to my surprise my tomtom took me to a residential address. I called WildHare to see if I was in the right area and sure enough it was his place. Anyway, He let me look at a DLE30 up close and personal, gave me some insight on the engine and all in all made me feel a lot more comfortable choosing this as the engine that will power my Taylorcraft. Comparing the DLE30 to the Zenoah G26ei. THe DLEis smaller, has a better ignition system on it that does not draw a lot of power from the battery, also I find it very impressive that this engine will turn a 19" prop with authority. I am very impressed with the workmanship this engins has. I will be buying an engine from him as soon as I get back home. I spoke with him briefly about the tilt and die issue and he said that it is a little overexaggerated and he has not personally had one do this to him yet. (I saw his test stand and he has the capability to tilt the engine). He said he may get one that dies eventually but he hasn't had it happen yet to one of his engines. We spoke briefly about the tuning and I asked him what oil to run. Without hesitation, he said break it in and run it with Pennzoil 2-cycle oil. You can read his "white-paper" on the wild hare.com website. He also told me that I can break the engine in on the airplane. He does not recommend running them for an extensive time on a test stand. Well that sums it up. I am a believer. I am now a DLEfan.
Glenn Williams
Glenn Williams
#2037
ORIGINAL: Tired Old Man
Now that's funny. DA ignitions arrive with a very nice Anderson connector set and the first thing people like to do is cut them off and install JR plugs. The Andersons are among some of the high end connectors made but people fail to secure them and let them flop around in flight so they eventually disconnect and fail the engine. Everyone blames the connectors....
Now the RC Exl has the type of connectors that everyone changes to when they have a DA ignition but they now become upset that the pins can move around a little. Is anyone smarter than the connectors? Put a small dollop of hot melt glue or silicone on the wires where they enter the connector. It's not that hard to outsmart a connector folks.
ORIGINAL: captinjohn
For what we pay for this RC stuff they should come with a high grade connecter in the first place. If I solder the wires together & get a short it would be hard to undue quick. Or for testing. Just don,t know....
ORIGINAL: fitson
If you are going to change the plugs why not solder the wires together? If you want to put plugs on later not much more work.
ORIGINAL: captinjohn
I was going to post what happened to me. I was re-installing the RCXEL ignition and no spark. I checked the connectors and noticed one of the pins had moved out of place. Got that fixed....but these connectors seem kinda cheap made. I think I will replace with them with much better deans...any input on that? Thanks Capt,n
I was going to post what happened to me. I was re-installing the RCXEL ignition and no spark. I checked the connectors and noticed one of the pins had moved out of place. Got that fixed....but these connectors seem kinda cheap made. I think I will replace with them with much better deans...any input on that? Thanks Capt,n
Now that's funny. DA ignitions arrive with a very nice Anderson connector set and the first thing people like to do is cut them off and install JR plugs. The Andersons are among some of the high end connectors made but people fail to secure them and let them flop around in flight so they eventually disconnect and fail the engine. Everyone blames the connectors....
Now the RC Exl has the type of connectors that everyone changes to when they have a DA ignition but they now become upset that the pins can move around a little. Is anyone smarter than the connectors? Put a small dollop of hot melt glue or silicone on the wires where they enter the connector. It's not that hard to outsmart a connector folks.
#2038
ORIGINAL: jedijody
You have to cut a small part of the hex off to clear the centering stub on the SBA. Look at the other picture I posted, it's easy to see there is plenty of hex left to work with. Anyone that routinely strips the hex off of spark plugs should maybe have it done for them.
ORIGINAL: captinjohn
Very good...but why cut the hex portion back so far? It would be better to have nut flush with crankshaft end. Better holding & more of the hex is there in case you want to remove to do repairs later if needed. Capt,n
Very good...but why cut the hex portion back so far? It would be better to have nut flush with crankshaft end. Better holding & more of the hex is there in case you want to remove to do repairs later if needed. Capt,n
#2040
ORIGINAL: jedijody
SBA=Single Bolt Adapter, that picture wasn't necessary, he had one in his hand.
SBA=Single Bolt Adapter, that picture wasn't necessary, he had one in his hand.
#2041
Member
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 71
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: fairless hills,
PA
I had no problem with cutting the hex end, took all of 2 minutes an worked great. glad I didn't drill out the hub for that little centering part of the SBA. now if this snow would go away we could get back to flying.
#2042

My Feedback: (16)
ORIGINAL: hutchi
Mine came today an after grinding down my thinnest wall socket it still wouldn't fit in the hub have to drill out the hub to accept the socket, but this will still be better than drilling those 4 prop bolts. thanks Valley View
ORIGINAL: PlaneKrazee
Weighed my new CH single bolt adapter, 85 grams. 3 oz on the nose. That includes the four mounting screws, prop washer and nut plus a new prop hub nut and washer. Subtract the weight of the original prop bolt, washer and four mounting bolts and I don't think there's much weight gain. (I'm waiting for my engine)
The machining of the adapter is excellent and it has been tapped for a spinner bolt saving the cost and weight of an additional adapter! When I receive my engine I'll check the runout with and without the new adapter
Weighed my new CH single bolt adapter, 85 grams. 3 oz on the nose. That includes the four mounting screws, prop washer and nut plus a new prop hub nut and washer. Subtract the weight of the original prop bolt, washer and four mounting bolts and I don't think there's much weight gain. (I'm waiting for my engine)
The machining of the adapter is excellent and it has been tapped for a spinner bolt saving the cost and weight of an additional adapter! When I receive my engine I'll check the runout with and without the new adapter
#2044

My Feedback: (2)
My 30 showed up in the mail today. It looks real good and there is no indication of it dragging on the skirt in any position as I slowly turn it over by hand. I am putting a Cyberplate on it before it is run and will need to realign the cylinder anyway when I reassemble it. I like the wire covering Rcexl is using on the hall sensor wire now as well as the tach lead.
#2047
Member
My Feedback: (1)
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 93
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Thomaston,
CT
If the serial #'s are consecutive on these 30's their are sure a bunch out here.My SN starts with a "C"oo527 purchased from Southeast engines 9-11-09,unrun to date,too cold,but turns free by hand.Be interesting to see how they change the # in the casting dies.Rich
#2048
Senior Member
My Feedback: (4)
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 2,251
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Blackfoot ,
ID
I just got a DLE-30 last friday and it has the new type casting i'm told, NO nothing has changed from the original to the eye except the way it's being cast. I understand its now an injection process to eliminate any voids or air pockets that could occur during the casting process.
The ser on my engine is 004179 so that tells me there is a ton of these engines out there someplace.
I look at the DL 50 compaired to the 55 to the 30 and each one has gotten better as time has gone by, even the ports are baby bottom smooth on the 30 as compaired to say the 50 or 55. So I would say there doing upgrades in some areas.
The ser on my engine is 004179 so that tells me there is a ton of these engines out there someplace.
I look at the DL 50 compaired to the 55 to the 30 and each one has gotten better as time has gone by, even the ports are baby bottom smooth on the 30 as compaired to say the 50 or 55. So I would say there doing upgrades in some areas.
#2049
Thread Starter
Senior Member
My Feedback: (1)
The serial numbers are sequential, there is indeed a ton of them out there. The serial numbers are etched during the machining process post casting, not cast in the mold. The 30 has always been made with a pressure casting mold process, the molds were updated and a 3rd injection port was added in the cylinder mold, can't see any other differences.
The 55 and 111 crankcases were cast this same way starting over a year ago. The pressure casting process for the 55/111 cylinders began a short time ago as well with a slightly different port configuration, no more voids in exhaust ports and very smooth transfer/boost ports.
The 55 and 111 crankcases were cast this same way starting over a year ago. The pressure casting process for the 55/111 cylinders began a short time ago as well with a slightly different port configuration, no more voids in exhaust ports and very smooth transfer/boost ports.
#2050
For what we pay for tne Engines I would think they would idle out of the box below 2100 RPM without dying. Lets sand the SPS on the piston, make a different backplate, an intake stuffer, have to mount it at a angle, and what ever else is going on then complain about the connectors???? .
Graigs post.
...
Graig, each person can post what they done to the DLE30
Here is what I done.
Mounted engine on a angle
Broke engine in and checked SPS
Repaired connector
Shifted cylinder for better alighnment..
Now it runs fine with-out all the other changes you mentioned. You will feel a little different about how important that connector is when you crash you plane because of a connector. The igniton is one of the most important aspects.....the other items just takes away the good performance. Dead ignition can kill you sweetheart airplane. Capt,n
Graigs post.
...
Graig, each person can post what they done to the DLE30
Here is what I done.
Mounted engine on a angle
Broke engine in and checked SPS
Repaired connector
Shifted cylinder for better alighnment..
Now it runs fine with-out all the other changes you mentioned. You will feel a little different about how important that connector is when you crash you plane because of a connector. The igniton is one of the most important aspects.....the other items just takes away the good performance. Dead ignition can kill you sweetheart airplane. Capt,n



