The 20cc.

[quote]ORIGINAL: jedijody

Of course, are you planning on breaking it right away? [img][/img]
[/quote. I am hoping the carb will fit an rcgf 20cc

Would I be correct in assuming that this engine is ideal for a .90 2s to 1.20 4s size airplane?

Yes.

Hhhmmm the specs of the 46-61 Edge 540T and the 60-90 Extra 300 are pretty much the same, thats what I'm looking at. The weight of the DLE 20cc and the JBA J15G 15cc are pretty much the same too. What am I missing here?

Thanks for the feedback

Airborne

The DLE 20 will be my first gas engine. I have some questions about the required accessories to operate the engine. I know that AMA requires a kill switch. A friend, who has much more experience than, I programs his throttle for extra low throttle operated by a tx switch to kill his engine. Is this an acceptable alternative? I also want to operate the ignition and radio with an A123 pack. What do I need to purchase to accomplish this? Do I need a need switch harness to fly gas?
Thanks in advance for any answers.
Frank

Frank, the kill switch is something that most of the gasser users should have installed, what will happen if your throttle servo goes stuck or fail at full throttle. Its better to invest just a few bucks for that insurance. Valley View RC has the 42% opto kill which is one of the best on the market and simple to install.

For a gasser you need(or at least is what i have), switch for the rx, on switch for the ignition, so you can kill the ignition from the tx or the normal switch. If you look, there is one battery for each application.

Best Regards,

You also have the option of a servo-operated choke which serves more than one purpose: Choke and engine-kill device.

Thanks, gentlemen!

Frank,

Drop back one page, to....
[link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9917199]post #234....[/link]

re; Opto Kill gas switch;

"This switch will kill your gas engine from your transmitter far away from your airplane. If your radio stops working, this switch will kill your engine, if you loose throttle control this switch will kill your engine, if your battery goes dead this switch will kill your engine. If your airplane goes into fail-safe and could fly many miles away, this switch will kill your engine so it will not go far"

As to ignition kill -vs- choke kill setups, it's a matter of personal choice.
[First] How safety conscious are you, of others & yourself?
[Second] What can you afford?

Like I said, it's a matter of personal choice, but here's how I'd list them in importance to me;

(1) Ignition kill = dead now/instantly, no power to ignition, no run.
(2) Choke kill + throttle kill = engine off, but ignition still live (plus some slight delay in killing engine)
(3) Choke kill only = same as #2

To me, $33.00 is cheap insurance and well worth the peace of mind it gives me.

Most gas eng ignitions require NO MORE than 6.0 volts, and you might need a regulator for your ignition.

Frank,

Here's some more great info for you.....

[link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8673009] Newbie to Gas General Information.....[/link]

Jim,
I did read that Introduction and it was excellent. Thank you! I probably go to a separate ignition battery as the OMP Ultimate Bipe doesn't have a deep battery compartment to fit A123's. Also, I will use the separate switch for the ignition and the Opto switch for safety. The last thing that I want to do is cause property damage or injury! Now I know what I have to purchase in order to fly gas. Thanks, again for the input!
Frank

Is the nylon or aluminum mount more suitable for the motor?

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXJ773&P=ML

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXD632&P=7

airborne

Use the nylon mount


http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...XJ773&P=ML

I've got a dragonlady 60 sitting in a box I'd love to put a gasser in, only hassle is they list the firewall to prop hub at a maximum of 5 3/8

Cut a hole in the firewall so that the carb sits back into it. It works fine. Just remember to fuel proof the area that the carb is into!

Guys, I have a OMP Fusion with a YS 1.10 on it. How would the power be compared to the YS 1.10? Also, it being a profile airplane and the YS is a real thumper, would this engine be a little smoother than the YS 1.10? I really love the way the YS runs and it's power is awesome, but it's my last glow airplane and it would be nice to be converted to all gas.

Thanks

I'm new to gasoline airplanes too but I have some experience with gasoline r/c cars. Would this new DLE 20cc gasser work in any of the Hangar 9 60 sized round cowl warbirds? I have the H9 At-6 Texan that now has a Magnum .91 four stroke and I was considering going with my LHS recommendation of replacing this glow engine with the 42 OZ. Zenoah G-20ie. If the heavy Zenoah G-20 is recommended by Horizon for the Hangar 9 60 size warbirds, the lighter 29 OZ DLE should also fit and be the best choice? The DLE 20cc has the same beam mount of an O.S. 1.20, so I need another engine mount like the Great Planes #1091 nylon mount? I'm I correct? Or, can I stay with the mount I already have for the .91 Magnum?

I plan to use the Tygon fuel tubing but I'm not too sure about the tubing ID for this engine? 3/32" or 1/8"? Also, how do I secure the tubing to the carb do I use wire ties or is there a barb on the carb gas intake?

Frank N.

Would that be the [link=http://www.horizonhobby.com/ProdInfo/Files/AT6_75-91_Inst_Manual.pdf] AT-6 ARF 75-91 by Seagull....[/link]

Regardless of yes/no, most such warbirds have a eng mount & cowl mount as a matched setup. Where & how you mount the engine depends on a specified distance from firewall -to- prop hub. Stick with the stock rails, but you will need to cutout the firewall opening large enough for the entire carb to fit inside it. The carb sticks out just about 2" from the back plate of this 20cc. You'll also need to mount the gas tank back farther.

Someone has probably already done something similar to this, but I'd still like to see photos of yours when you're done!

ps....1/8" Tygon is what you'll need.

Drypipe,

I have an RCGF 20cc gasser in the .60 size P-47. Great combo. I run a 16x6. The DLE will likely make much more power. My reccomendation would be to beef-up the horizontal stabilizer with that much power.

Just my 2 cents.

Not true anymore.

DA support has stated that unregulated A123 (6.6v) is fine. I've run this for over a year without issue
3W manuals state up to 7.5v (5 cell NiMH) is acceptable. They state 5 cell pack is preferred in fact.
The newer Evolution/MVVS engines accept 6-8.5v. Their manual states 5 cell nicd/nimh minimum and they recommend a 2S lipo/LiIon.
Saito recommends a 5 cell/ 6v minimum pack for the FG series gassers.
Zenoah does specify 4 cell only - meaning their ignition probably cant take over 6v.
I don't know about ZDZ or any other makes.


Bottom line - dont just assume, read the manual.

OK, I'm sticking with "most", but altering it include "some can take higher voltage, check your manual first."

That sound like a good compromise?

The mfg's may have been making changes to their ign modules that now allow for higher input voltage. Older modules may or may not handle such. Hopefully such would be noted by the mfg's.

Ya got me curious about ign modules, so I went checking;

Saito, Evolution, 3W=correct

But for DA's their manuals still state;
"Use 4.8 or 6.0 volt batteries only. (We see no significant difference in engine performance
between the two.) The ignition will tolerate the peak charge voltage on these packs. Higher
voltage batteries will damage the ignition system and will void the warranty."

If one of their t/s folks said different, I'd be inclined to stick with the manual they print until those get updated.

DL;
"The DL50 ignition system is designed for input voltage ranging from 4.8 to 6.0 volts, no more and no less."

DLE; same as DL above

a1pcfixer,
Thank you for the fire wall mod information. No, it is the H9 (Hangar 9) .60 size Texan ARF. So, is it safe to say that this DLE engine will be ok for a 60 size warbird if room is made in the firewall for the carb?

Frank