Yes I did. I can't wait to see the video of the rod through the side.

Rod through the side -or- a spectacular mid-air collision....or both!!![sm=72_72.gif]

For most, it's a bad example of flying with others.
But [8D], if ya intend to purposely destroy the eng + have a mid-air, then it's gotta be fun.

If it was up to my son he's SHOOT my planes out of the sky. Personally, if I DID have a plane I'd like to destroy, I think a mutual game of chicken would be a blast. But, short of that unlikely scenario, the flying style of those guys in that video, as we commented in that other thread, is just complete idiocy, IMHO.

Agreed!

I'd like to see that DLE20 disassembled after it blows up with that 12.5" prop.
Bet he has no idle issues![8D]

Your welcome, and glad it helped.

One silver lining to this whole ignition thing is that it WILL teach you to properly set-up, tune and set the idle on your engine. At least is has for me. Of course I had a lot of help from guys on here, especially Jody.

Here's wishing you good times and fun flying with your DLE!

replaced the #3s and the #4s i have, much happier with the standard curves from RCEXL (they are actually the RC Extreme Power ignitions i use, but they are supposed to be RCEXL), they work fine and i don't see the stickers in my planes.
Michael

Help[X(] I'm about to pull out what little hair I have left[:@] O.k all you gasser god's I need some idea's. I have searched this and other threads and I am not finding an answer to my issue. I have 2 of these engines and recently both have been loading up and dying about 3 minutes after take off. They have worked almost flawlessly from the start 2 months ago and now I am out of my mind with this issue. Both run fine on the ground, idle, transition etc. but right after take off they begin to act like they are starved for fuel and then lose power. Both are mounted in cowls, Pt 17 Stearman and a Ryan STA and even in the hot weather we had last month they ran fine. Here is what I have done so far. NGK plugs, removed carbs and opened and checked for dirt and debris in the screen, checked fuel lines for kinks clogged filter etc. Checked the plugs for gap.025 and they are light tan in color, checked the spark and battery. Props are 17x6 xoar. Nothing seems to matter. Gas is regular,mixed 32:1 using Penzoil aircooled. Like I said they run great on the gound but once in the air [:'(]. I am still new at this gas thing but I am out of ideas and I have a GS funfly I was going to go to on Fri but not if I can't solve this issue. I'm open to your ideas Thank you in advance.

Spinnerrow - just watched the vid you posted on the Galloping Ghost. That engine is STUNNING!! Sounds better than the real thing!!

Actually that 12.5 x 13 prop is about 85% of the minimum load recommended for this engine.... So with good lubrication and ventilation... I'm betting on a midair or other "unfortunate end" to that airplane before the engine gives it up! Just a prediction. An 18x6 is about the equivalent in the other direction (overload/above spec)... wonder if that would cause a failure first under full throttle conditions or the smaller prop would?? Of course, I did say with adequate ventilation and lubrication... we don't know if that is happening or not!

rb,
I wish I was a gasser god and could help you. Just curious, if these planes both have cowls, have you tried flying them without the cowl?

If you get it figured out, please let us know what it was.

Doug, on your 7C with digital trims that are accurate and repeatable, just give it two (or whatever is needed) clilcks of down trim on the throttle trim before landing and then click it back up the same amount before taking off again. (if indeed you do have a problem with the throttle curve once you get it going).

Ernie Misner

Actually that 12.5 x 14 is BELOW what DLE recommends for the DLE20 (14 x 10), which will put it in excess of 10,000+ rpm's, and often!
An 18 x 6 is ABOVE (17 x 6) what's recommended. So I'd vote on the smaller prop &/or a mid-air as being the demise of that model.

As for lubrication, he'd do good to increase it to say 25:1.....but if he's using Lawncrap all bets are on eng seizure

My good side says everything about that setup & style of flying is wrong.
My bad side though says they're having loads of fun and a mid-air would just be awesome!

If ya clicked on his user name to bring up his profile, then scan his other messages, you'd find he's posted other videos with the same chaotic flying.
They're always having a good time!

Thanks for reminding me of that throttle trim technique Ernie, got so involved with these computer mixes and such I had forgotten how it was done B.C. !

Even used Trim Trickery on flaps on a Giant Sized Super Cub to get flap reflex to achive a fighting chance of flying that kite in very high winds. That Cub would rip out of a side slip like a P-51 on a high speed pass.
The Cub was used as a RC Glider Tow Plane till I sold it. (Now regret it.)

I needed to remember all is not lost with electronic trim levers. Back to Basic Flight Training for me !

Always mechanically trim first then cheat with the computer.

Cheers


Thanks Ernie and All !

My first thought/WAG is ign. voltage is marginal or low.

It's about the load the prop is putting on the engine. He's running a TON of pitch, making the load significantly higher than one might first consider when looking at only the dia. of the prop he's running. This is a pretty unusual prop not normally used - but fitting in his application (pylon racing). Whoever wrote the recomended prop specs. would be much more likely to use prop examples that are more mainstream. Not saying this prop is correct, only that it may not be as far out as it might seem at first glance.

Using the 2" of pitch = 1" of diameter guideline used for maintaining similar loads while playing with prop sizes, and starting with a 12.5x13, you could drop 4" of pitch while adding 2" of diameter and come up with 14.5x9.

Yes I have flown them without the cowls and still the same issue. I also have the ignition batteries fully charged, 2000 mah and 4.8 NMH brand new. I find it very wierd that 2 engines both started doing the same thing. I did recently mix a new can of gas and even though that has a filter on it also I am wondering if that could be the problem. Again both engines start and run fine on the ground, at all differnt throttle settings and takeoff's are not a problem and up until a week ago they have been running great. It's only when I get about 3 min into the flight that they start bogging down and then quit. I have readjusted the needles back to original settings and still no luck. I'm going to throw out the gas and make a new batch. I have gotten real good at dead sticking[&:] but I'm getting tired of walking to get my plane[:@]. Thanks again and keep the ideas coming.

Water in your gas?

Well, as you say it's effecting both engines the same way, so it has to be something common to both engines. The "bad gas" theory makes the most sense to me. Maybe you mixed the oil in twice? I'm getting close to the age where I'm afraid that I might forget to add the oil in[X(].
Or it could just be bad gas? Let us know if a new batch fixes the problem.

and on second thought, maybe the fuel delivery guy just may have put E-85 in the wrong storage tank??

I found this thread and it is exactly what my engines are doing http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_10644054/tm.htm I'm going to install some kind of baffeling and also the air dam. On my stearman I only have the area where I cut out one of the fake cylinders in front of the head and a pits muffler under the carb, pretty much the same set up with the Ryan. I know what you mean about the age thing myself, I was filling up my smoke tank once and kept staring at the gas vent line waiting for it to over flow and wondering what was taking so long to fill the smole tank[X(] Only pumped about a pint of smoke oil all over my garage floor[:@] DOH! I'll keep you posted.

Yes, the pitch increases the load, but he's STILL going to be high reving with that small of a prop!

That is why I asked you if you had flown the planes without the cowls, and you said that you have, and still have the same issues. I don't believe that over heating is your problem if they act the same way with no cowl. Did both engines start dying at the same time? If so, then I would still try new gas.

Yeh, I will dump the gas still and try that first, but when the cowls are on they both feel really warm all over, even on the spinner. I will take some pictures of my setup after work and post them on here. The temp last evening when I was flying was in the mid 80's, not nearly as hot as early in the month closer to 100 deg then. Thanks, for all for your input, I'm sure it will be something simple i've overlooked.

Agreed he'll be turning some high RPMs. As I said, it's (after doing some math) about 83% of the minimum recommended load for that engine. A better way (in my experience) to calculate what fits for pitch/diameter is to take dia*dia*dia*dia*pitch (i.e. dia to the 4th power and multiply by pitch). This gives you a rough "loading" number. This number is only useful as a comparison, it's not a measure of thrust or anything like that. If you do this math for all the recommended props you can establish a "load range" for the airplane and have something to compare to. Then do the same for any prop you are considering and compare to the range. At least you'll have an idea what to expect. Higher load, less RPMs with the expected effect on torque, speed, etc. within the motors capabilities.

I built a spreadsheet where I did the math for everything from 5 to 25 inch props with pitches from 4 to 10 and sorted by load factor. Occaisonally I add a size if I see something odd, like the 12.5 x 14 or whatever it was. Everytime I get a motor I enter in a new column with the range of props that the manufacturer recommends. There will be lots of props that fit in between and occaisonally that can lead to some interesting possibilities. It's fun to then go get two or three options that look like they might fit what you want to accomplish (higher pitch/lower dia for speed... opposite for pull/thrust) and try them out. I've used this method for years and it's a fair predictor if you are comparing similar make to similar make. If nothing else it keeps you out of trouble. If you stay within the load range you will almost never have an issue based on overload or over-rev on an engine. You will also learn quickly which prop types/brands have more overall loading compared to others. Depends on the airfoil design and material properties (less/more flex).

OK, yes, I'm a bit of a geek and love to do these sorts of calculations and then go buy some props and prove it out. I've done it many times and rarely bought a prop that didn't work as expected per the calculations. Here's a sample for the DLE-20:

14 10 384160
16 6 393216
15 8 405000
14 11 422576
16 7 458752
14 12 460992
17 6 501126
15 10 506250
16 8 524288

Would you have guessed a 16x7 and a 14x12 would load the motor almost equally?? That the load seems to very Ok, enough fun with math. Play around with props and enjoy.

open both hi and low needles just a tad. What have you got to loose? Mine we doing that and it kept acting like it was starving from low to high rpm when they would get good and warm/hot. Seemed like opening the low end was the answer, but the answer to mine was opening both needles a little. Brian