wgeffon

My Feedback: (4)

I am sure its before.
My motor was from the very first run when DA started selling them.
I never ran it.
It sat here for a long time waiting for this plane.

vertical ts

My Feedback: (50)

Hey Guys,
I know it is somewhere buried in the thread,but does anyone have a part number,description,and possible picts of the tape that we are supposed to use on the flex header.Thanks for the help

wgeffon

My Feedback: (4)

Its white plumbers tape.
You can get it at Lowes, Home Depot etc..

bodywerks

My Feedback: (4)

That has something to do with it, but very little.
Think about it, If your plane is nose heavy, it will require some up trim to fly level. Now, when you roll into knife edge, your rudder takes over the job of keeping the plane level. But you also still have that up trim in the elevators that will now make the plane pull toward the canopy in knife edge. It is the opposite for a tail heavy plane
However, given different plane designs, trimming a plane for perfect knife edge while still flying all other maneuvers well is a compromise, because you may have to make the plane so tail heavy it is unstable or so nose heavy that it is sluggish

bodywerks

My Feedback: (4)

I was considering that, too, which Is why I am adding a latch at the bottom of the canopy where there is less flex. Also, preventing the air from "rushing in" won't help much, because once the airplane is set in motion, the air moving over the outside of the fuselage will have less pressure than the inside. Some dude named Bernolli (spelling) found that out...

coche

My Feedback: (4)

I am not making any changes to my canopy, but following this thread about the loosing the canopy on air, I think that the reason to that its that the canopy as been so light it bends from the middle and if your front dowels are to short it will be easy to bend off! so longer front dowels will help, but you will still have the canopy bending from the middle! resulting on a damage right on the middle when time pases! so this might help you guys! here its a drawing! just giving to you an idea!

sarawnty

Hi Folks,
Could someone tell me what post or page the hatch discussions start at? :-) I'm working my way through page 44 now.
My Yak is going together incredibly well. Just not fond of the o-ring set up.
Thanks,
Steve

Dave763

My Feedback: (1)

Pg 49 and 50. You may want to use the stock setup with the bolts and blindnuts. At least one person has had his canopy come off twice in flight. I don't know if anyone else is having this problem or not. I installed the hatch pin. I also added one more cowl mounting tab top center. I am going to fly it and see what happens.

Dave

stomper

My Feedback: (20)

Man real sorry to hear Dave is having such a hard time with this Transplant!
Please let us know things start turnning for the better.

sarawnty

Thanks Dave,
I may try different o-rings that clamp down on the screw thread tighter. The screws wouldn't back completely out when I loosened them and got stuck in the plywood canopy tabs. I like the basic design but I don't want to have to fiddle with it.
Regards,
Steve

747drvr

My Feedback: (5)

I think this might be the problem ! If the rear flexes 1/8" , that's enough to let the catch disengage. The stock mounting tabs should be enough to keep the canopy from shifting laterally and I can't see the front end sneaking out with the dowels captured in the holes . I'm going to go ahead with the spring loaded latch but put a blocker plate ahead of the fuel tank/ behind the throttle servo to keep the air out of the fuselage.

Marc

NE0

My Feedback: (9)

I was noticing this "air pressure" issue last night, but thought I was crazy. I really think that's a strong possibility and I really like Coche's idea. I still think this can be worked out... I really don't like that 4 screw mount scenario at all and hope to avoid it. Personally, I don't want to mess with with a fuel filler on this plane and had hoped to just put a fuel dot in the line inside the canopy. That's not gonna happen if I have to fight 4 screws every time I refuel... but with the latch it would be a cinch.

Dave763, let us know how yours works out!!!!!

Tom

747drvr

My Feedback: (5)

I was hoping to keep everything internal as well like I do on my jets . Fuel , flip on the switches , put the canopy on and fly !

Marc

NE0

My Feedback: (9)

I normally don't do that, but on this plane, I'd rather keep it internal. There's no real ply sidewalls to give you many options for mounting fillers, switches, etc. into and burying stuff into that styrofoam is a pain. If you can pop the canopy with one flip of the finger, then it's a lot easier to just keep stuff internal.

That's how Maudib did his, and he isn't even putting an RX switch in his... just plug and unplug the battery internally. One less thing to go bad.

Tom

BBriBro

My Feedback: (2)

I'll buy that, but just like you said, it's all a compromise, when I first read your post, I was thinking you were suggesting to adjust your CG soley by performing Knife Edge flight, and I was like "*** ?" it may end up way out of whack for every other flight regime, but now I see your whole point, and I agree. It's just one other factor to consider. I would say that most airplanes require some rudder to elevator mix and some speed, and unfortunately it's usually not linear.

DrScoles

My Feedback: (18)

Hi guys,

My latch assembly is very rigid.... The only thing I think I could have done differently, is ensure that it was as far forward as possible, that way the pin would go as far as it could forward. I put a 1/8" piece of ply on the canopy for the pin to go into it, and the pin travels all the way through it... I don't know what the deal is, I'm just gonna put two bolts in on the back and go from there.....if I had tried the right size tubing to push the bolts back out, I probably would have never attempted this latch thing....a few of my bolts were hanging up and making it very difficult to get the canopy off....


Mike, Sat may work.... I have to go to a Bday party at 6,but might be able to sneak out for a bit :-) I'll let you know.... I'll put the plane in the car and then try to make it over weather permitting....


Mike

BBriBro

My Feedback: (2)

It seems many of you are having trouble removing the canopy bolts. I am using a magnetic allen wrench, once they are unscrewed, they come out every time, it's simple !

TailTouch

My Feedback: (54)

I finished setting up the plane last night...throws, radio etc.

My CG (with the pipe) is coming at 7 3/4 behind the LE. That is 1/2" behind the aft most point recommended in the manual.

Also, both the ailerons are twisted 2 deg. at the wingtips.

Any quick way of removing the warp.

Thanks.

bodywerks

My Feedback: (4)

Yes. Securely tape the aileron T.E to the fixed portion of the T.E. on the wing. Twist in the direction you need to. Heat gun the covering, and recheck. I had to do it with mine and it was simple. I lost my incidence meter, though, so I had to just eyeball down the length of both sides of the aileron 'til they looked good.
BTW, are you running a cannister? I am, and I had to run my ignition pack just behind the first former abd my battery is darn near hanging off the front of the engine box! I am still about 7 1/4 on CG.

sarawnty

Hi Folks,
I got to around page 55 and couldn't find what I was looking for. I spoke to my flying budy Marc (747drv) about the hatch this morning. He reminded me that someone suggested using fuel tubing instead of the o-rings. So that's what I did. I cut a piece 1/4" long and used 1" 4-40 allen screws. But to give the allen screw head more surface area onto the fuel tubing, I threaded on a small 4-40 nut and tightened against the screw head. Now the screw head is not digging into the fuel tubing when I tighten the screw. I'm happy with the hatch now so on to the cowl.
Thanks again,
Steve

TailTouch

My Feedback: (54)

I am running the KS-1060 pipe and both the batteries, ignition and one regulator are mounted on the motor box.
I think I'll add some weight and maybe remove it later.

flyingcrazy

My Feedback: (28)

I told about using fuel tubing may not have it clear what im am doing and why so here goes again . The reason is so the bolts are e-z to remove thats why im am using longer socket head 4-40 bolts two of them need to be 1 1-2 inch long and two of them need to be 1 inch long using silicone tubing slide it over the bolts all the way and then cut it off leaving 1/4 of threads un covered , what this will do when you put the bolts in they will be flush with the fuse making the bolts e-z to get to and the silicone will hold them tight and act like a spring to push bolts out with ease . TRY THIS ON ONE BOLT YOU WILL SEE WHY I KEEP BEATING A DEAD HORSE. I also made some extras in case I lose one at the field or in my shop . NOT IN THE AIR ! Anyway hope this helps .

JWilliams

My Feedback: (6)

From what I have been reading, those using the canopy hatch slide lock are having problems and those following the directions are not??? Guys, do not try and reinvent the wheel here. The stock canopy attach system works fine, I have it on the EF 68" yak and it is fine. If you want to remove the bolts from the hole fully, we put nylon insert nuts on a long 4-40 bolt so the head of the bolt was near the fuse side for easier removal.
Jeff W.

NE0

My Feedback: (9)

Actually, it's not "those guys" yet... it's only one guy. Only one person has flown the EF Yak with the hatch latch in it... so we really still don't know if it will work or not. I know it works on other planes and takes 2 seconds and no tools to remove the hatch, and no screws to lose. But, if it doesn't work, then obviously this technique should be abandoned. We just don't really know yet, until someone else gives us a flight report. It's very possible that the "one" person who had the problem has another issue causing it... or maybe not.

For me, I hate screwing them stupid things in and out every time you want to look inside... and that's with just 2 screws that are easy... much less 4 screws that are difficult. I would much rather use the latch, but if the canopy is not secure on with one on this particular airframe, then I won't.

While only one person has claimed failure with the latch... almost everyone has complained about the difficulty of the 4 screws. As for not "reinventing the wheel"... something needs done... the stock method of mounting the screws is obviously not desirable. That's why guys are coming up with the O-rings, tubing, etc.

Tom

jeang

Did most of you use the wood screw for the tail wheel bracket or went with a blindnut setup?


jeang