flatlandmike

My Feedback: (17)

some do some dont

I release the spring do not remove it just unhook the tension

the thoght that the tension is enough to conter act a dead servo is just crazy and it will save some mah
for more flying

Josey Wales

My Feedback: (61)

I left mine on on both my 50's



I just put it on the side of the fuse..you mean you covered the sending unit or the actual fiber optic cable?

Maudib

My Feedback: (51)

Not sure what Boss means by "take it off" but I asuume he left the spring inplace, but unhooked it from the carb arm to release the tension... You NEED the spring in place to act as a "washer" and hold the plate centered...

Like this... here is a pic of a different engine, but same process...




The spring stays but

Bosshossv8

My Feedback: (10)

yeah, I left it as the washer.

you have to .

Torqued-Up

My Feedback: (16)

I've tried the MPI Y-harness w/reverser before on smaller planes, but stopped using them because the centerpoint would drift on me on one elevator... Plus the endpoints never stayed the same...

Bosshossv8

My Feedback: (10)

The cable , I covered it, read somewhere you had to, to avoid false triggers.

the smart fly kill is the best I have seen. It has all the right features.

I will never fly a gasser without a kill , independent of the throttle position. I had one bad experience to re-inforce that doctrine. That's all it takes is one bad time.

Josey Wales

My Feedback: (61)

I did read that if you exposed the sensor to direct sunlight you may get a problem but I never read about the actual cable..I have mine routed inside the fuse and my canopy is black so there aint much light getting in there!! The part that connects to the ignition is under the cowl..I agree its a nice unit..I use it to kill the engine after each flight..Besides if you lose rx power it will at least kill the engine so it wont just fly away into the sunset..or worse fly into someone full throttle!

Maudib

My Feedback: (51)

It's the connector on the sending unit (at the receiver end) light can get in the cable inside that open canopy and cause the optic receiver to thinkit's being to told to turn on.

It bascially a flashlight.. it send light down the cable to the receiver that picks up the light and says "I'm on". Bright conditions can allow thelight to padd in the end of the connecot enough so as to send enoughlight down the optic line and simluate an "on condition" this would be dangerous if you were say pumping fuel to the carb thingking it was of and was just pumping th ebalde with your hand and it HAPPENED to be fast enough to fire the ignition.

Guys were noticing it when they started their planes and the switch wouldn't turn them off. If they are in a dark area of the fuse, there is no problem... but the bright open Yak offered too much light... a wrap of black tape around the cable connector does the trick fine... or a slip af larger shrink tubing.

Josey Wales

My Feedback: (61)

OkI thought it was the igniton end..Doesnt matter..no sunlight getting thru my canopy!

Maudib

My Feedback: (51)

Actually it is either end... but the ignition end is usually inside the cowl... but even on bright white cowls enoiugh could bounce around and get in there...

But the side we "fixed" was the tramsitter under the canopy...

Josey Wales

My Feedback: (61)

Since I figured at first it was at the igniton end I wrapped mine up in foam to keep any stray light out so far no problems

ScaleRules

My Feedback: (5)

Boss,

I will be using one of the opti kills as well. What did you cover the cable with?

Ok whoops I ddin't read down the rest of the thread... disregard this question please.

ScaleRules

My Feedback: (5)

Joe,

Where do you get those neet white strain releifs you are using on your rudder cables? Looks like you opted for cross cables as well.

Josey Wales

My Feedback: (61)

They are from SWB and are really slick..http://www.swbmfg.com/

I used kevlar cable for the pull-pull and you are correct, they are crossed..I ran 2 pieces of plastic pushrod tubes on the inside of the fuse to keep the cables from rubbing..

swk550

My Feedback: (76)

I purchased a new kit recently. I am just now uppacking the box. It appears somewhere along the way, the canopy got crushed. When I popped the top back in shape, a 2" x 3" piece broke from the side. Can I cut out this window section and glue in another window section? Can I still get any spare parts? If not, whose Yak would have a canopy of similar shape I can splice into this one? The rest of the plane seems fine.

I plan on using a DA 50 engine with a KS 1060 pipe. Currently the KS 1060 pipes are not available. I'll need to fly the plane initially with a Slimline pitts muffler. Where is the best place to mount the switches so that in the future I will only need to move the batteries for balance? I would like to not have to add any extension leads to my batteries.

Thanks,

Steve K

wgeffon

My Feedback: (4)

Steve,

Call Chris at EF. He may have some canopies left.
Most people are mounting the switches in the foam up near where the fuse meets the cowl.
The battery should go right in front of the wing tube. That will be fine with your CG for both the muffler and the pipe.

Bosshossv8

My Feedback: (10)

If you cannot get a canopy, you can repair the one you have. I have 2 cracked canopies...1 from the original shipment, just a corner. The other a large crack through the front window.

I was able to thick CA it, while a friend held it together perfectly, I first tacked it on the out side....then seamed the inside with a bead of medium CA. On the outside, the lexan fit together near perfectly, I used a capilary tube with super thin CA to carefully drip into the crack.

It is not very pretty, but since the canopy was smoked, it is hard to see from 10 feet away.

I know it is no consolation to have to do this, but it made an unusable canopy usable.

I can post a pic.....in a few minutes.

If someone would make a mold of this canopy , I am sure they would sell a more than a few.

I know I would buy one.

Bosshossv8

My Feedback: (10)

I used AMAZING GOOP , a silicone-like glue...but much stronger , to cover the seam inside the canopy. It is so strong that is will never fail. I have done this repair to my EF 68" Yak-54 as well.

Good Luck.


Also, if really want a canopy, and can;t get one from EF, you can get a replacement Canopy for a KMP Yak-54 . It is balsa, and a heavier plastic , it is about 6 ounces heavier, but it will fit perfectly, with just a little bit of the front edge needing trimming. THe turtle deck angle and height and all other dimensions are the same...obviously, Chris designed it.

But it IS heavier.

swk550

My Feedback: (76)

I would like to see your canopy repair pictures.

My current thinking is:

1) If I can find a crashed canopy where the center bay clear section is in tact, I could cut it at the painted divider area and splice it into my center section. My splice section would be in the painted area which is easy to repaint and reinforce.

2) I could CA the broken pieces (assuming I have all of them) and glass the repair area from the inside. Then blend the outside. This would require me to paint the clear sections on the outside.

3) Scab on a window patch from lexan or vacuum mold sheet. (This would look ugly though).

Thanks,

Steve

Bosshossv8

My Feedback: (10)

IF an d I say IF, you have al the pieces you can get it back together. And it would be OK. OK. not great..but OK. It would certainly holdup to flying.

But , if they are distorted bent or twisted it will be dificult , if not impossible. I was fortunate, I got clean cracks each time....Twice on 87's and Once on a 68".


As far as adding pieces or cutting and pasting, that is something I would botch for sure.

The KMP canopy would be an easy fix...but at about 4-6 ounces penalty. And that could be changed to with a little creative balsa work.

Bosshossv8

My Feedback: (10)

BTW, you are looking at my canopy repair pictures....that crack is there and will stay there. I am not "bodyworking" it out. But it is glued like that.....a few tacks on the outside, seamed in the inside.

The crack is "10 footer"...can;t see it until you walk up on the plane, and sure as heck can;t see it flying it....unless you hover at haircut distance.

swk550

My Feedback: (76)

Yak Canopy Damage

Here are some photos of my canopy damage. I can not find the missing piece. As it turns out the missing piece is between the center and rear section. I could use some more suggestions for repair. EF does not have any spares. Are any of the other Yak canopies of similar size and shape? Maybe I could fit one of them to the frame.

By the way, does anyone have a used KS 1060 pipe they want to sell? Please PM if you have one.

Steve K

Richard D Bahmann aka/Wrongway

My Feedback: (42)

Hey all,

So Extreme Flight has just delivered over half of their shipment of 45"electric Extras in the first day of being in stock.
The new factory in Malasia is by now producing the new 50CC release and Extreme Flight has indicated that they will most likely make the Yak 54 again in the 87"variety. With Mike Hall taking to the finer point of scale details I would like to make a suggestion to Extreme Flight.
On your next Yak 54 release offer a Eric Beard tribute sceme. For those of you that may not know, Eric Beard flew the 100% Yak 54 in airshow circuits http://www.russianthunder.com/ and was tragically killed early this year in a cargo plane (Piper Senaca I believe)
To me an Eric Beard ExtremeFlight Yak 54 at any event WOULD be a crowd catcher.
Complete with a really scale landing gear and half wheel pant and Embry Riddle wing decals it would rock.
I would like to credit Ken-h for the photo below as he did a tribute to this sceme before the accident with a BME Yak . http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_29...43/key_/tm.htm

What do you's think? I know that EF browses the threads and if people say yes well then......

Bosshossv8

My Feedback: (10)

I have expressed an interest in doing that scheme a few times....maybe on a ARC or solid white version.

I don't know what the legal eagles would have to say about rights to the Embry name , or getting licensing from Eric's family. Doing it privately isone thing.....a company doing it , might be a little more complicated. Just my opinion.

I would LOVE one. I have Eric's autograph, and loved watching him fly.

for those interested in supporting his family by donation ...there is a video for sale through his web site.....great video.

airheaddan

My Feedback: (1)

I just saw a reply you had on rc universe and I wanted to know how to buy this extreme yak Thanks Danny Gray
email [email protected]