PAU/BME 87" Extra 330L - Build and Fly
01-09-2007, 10:51 PM
#76
Senior Member
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (51)
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Ashland, KY
Posts: 5,833
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: PAU/BME 87" Extra 330L - Build and Fly
Haven't forgotten about the thread...
I'm waiting for the standoffs to arrive... any day now... to get crankin' again!
I'm waiting for the standoffs to arrive... any day now... to get crankin' again!
01-17-2007, 08:27 PM
#79
My Feedback: (45)
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Shelby Twp.,
MI
Posts: 750
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: PAU/BME 87" Extra 330L - Build and Fly
OK Dave, back to work. I'm ready to pull mine out of the Box and get started. I leave for China on Sunday and I'll be back in 9 days, you better have it done!
see ya ............ Ward
01-26-2007, 06:54 PM
#83
Senior Member
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (51)
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Ashland, KY
Posts: 5,833
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: PAU/BME 87" Extra 330L - Build and Fly
O.K. got the engine installed...
First you mark the firewall as seen in the pic... then apply your engine mounting template to the offset thrustline.
Some firewalls had a laser engraving of these marks... mine did not... but it's best to REMEASURE to make sure they are correct...
First you mark the firewall as seen in the pic... then apply your engine mounting template to the offset thrustline.
Some firewalls had a laser engraving of these marks... mine did not... but it's best to REMEASURE to make sure they are correct...
01-26-2007, 06:55 PM
#84
Senior Member
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (51)
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Ashland, KY
Posts: 5,833
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: PAU/BME 87" Extra 330L - Build and Fly
Next I drilled the bolt holes and hardened them with thin CA... as well as about 1" aorund the hole on each side... this will help prevent crushing the firewall under the bolts/standoffs.
01-26-2007, 06:58 PM
#85
Senior Member
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (51)
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Ashland, KY
Posts: 5,833
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: PAU/BME 87" Extra 330L - Build and Fly
The next 4 pics show the cowl cutouts to allow for the stock muffler... Looks pretty good overall.. not as "purdy" as a Pitts... but I'll get more POWER with the stock muffler....
Also... pics never do show how unnoticable the cutouts really are... In case you are wondering... I cut it out such that the kuffler is slipped inside the cowl before the cowl is attached... THEN it's bolted to the engine.
Also... pics never do show how unnoticable the cutouts really are... In case you are wondering... I cut it out such that the kuffler is slipped inside the cowl before the cowl is attached... THEN it's bolted to the engine.
01-26-2007, 08:49 PM
#86
Senior Member
My Feedback: (3)
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: San Antonio,
TX
Posts: 342
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: PAU/BME 87" Extra 330L - Build and Fly
David,
It is looking good. I setting here wondering when my engine will be coming and hoping I can get to work on the airplane too.
John
It is looking good. I setting here wondering when my engine will be coming and hoping I can get to work on the airplane too.
John
01-31-2007, 02:27 PM
#87
Member
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Summerville,
SC
Posts: 34
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: PAU/BME 87" Extra 330L - Build and Fly
So if you don't have a template how do you determine this? (referring to post 83) Or can you get a template for the Brillelli 60, I've decided that's what I'm going to use. Also, will you need to put any washers or grommets behind the standoffs. Or will you need your engine to face 2% down and to the right, or will straight mounting of standoffs be ok?
01-31-2007, 02:54 PM
#88
Senior Member
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (51)
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Ashland, KY
Posts: 5,833
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: PAU/BME 87" Extra 330L - Build and Fly
The firewall is already angled for the right offset... No downthrust is needed.
Once you mark your offset lines ont eh firewall as instructed... you'llneed the measurements of the bolt hole pattern on the engine.
For eaxmple ONLY... if the four bolt holes are 3" apart horizontally and 2.5" apart vertically... You'll measure up from the horizontal line 1.25" and down 1.25" and draw two horizontal lines (half of 2.5")
Do the same from the OFFSET vertical centerline using 1.5" (half of 3") and drawing the lines vertically... where the 4 lines cross create the corners where you drill your holes.
o need to worry about calculating engine offset... as you are instructed to distance ANY engine the same amoutn from the firewall...
NOTE... the Brillelli 60 will require 2.25" Standoffs in order to get the engine the correct distance from the firewall.
Once you mark your offset lines ont eh firewall as instructed... you'llneed the measurements of the bolt hole pattern on the engine.
For eaxmple ONLY... if the four bolt holes are 3" apart horizontally and 2.5" apart vertically... You'll measure up from the horizontal line 1.25" and down 1.25" and draw two horizontal lines (half of 2.5")
Do the same from the OFFSET vertical centerline using 1.5" (half of 3") and drawing the lines vertically... where the 4 lines cross create the corners where you drill your holes.
o need to worry about calculating engine offset... as you are instructed to distance ANY engine the same amoutn from the firewall...
NOTE... the Brillelli 60 will require 2.25" Standoffs in order to get the engine the correct distance from the firewall.
02-01-2007, 10:44 AM
#89
Member
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Summerville,
SC
Posts: 34
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: PAU/BME 87" Extra 330L - Build and Fly
Thanks David, and for your patience...I've added yours and all the 330L builds to my favorites for quick reference. It looks like you'll be at the electronics setup soon.
02-03-2007, 07:39 PM
#91
Senior Member
My Feedback: (3)
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: San Antonio,
TX
Posts: 342
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: PAU/BME 87" Extra 330L - Build and Fly
Tor,
There is room for cans, there is another build thread were they put in cans.
The link to PAU/BME is http://www.bmeaircraft.com/index.html.
Someone has one for sale in the market place. He decided to go with another plane but had already purchased the 330L.
I need to get working on mine and hopefully my engine will be finding its way home.
John
There is room for cans, there is another build thread were they put in cans.
The link to PAU/BME is http://www.bmeaircraft.com/index.html.
Someone has one for sale in the market place. He decided to go with another plane but had already purchased the 330L.
I need to get working on mine and hopefully my engine will be finding its way home.
John
ORIGINAL: Tor
Very nice...
Does it have room for a can?
Whats the link for PAU?
Very nice...
Does it have room for a can?
Whats the link for PAU?
02-20-2007, 05:07 PM
#92
Senior Member
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (51)
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Ashland, KY
Posts: 5,833
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: PAU/BME 87" Extra 330L - Build and Fly
Sorry guys for taking so long to get back to the build... I've only been pulled umpteen directions lately... 
Here's a shot of the installed DA50 and the location for the ignition... I used zipties to hold the ignition in place... but there is /12" foam underneath and small lengths of fuel tubing used as padding on the corners of the ignition where the ziptoes hit...
Here's a shot of the installed DA50 and the location for the ignition... I used zipties to hold the ignition in place... but there is /12" foam underneath and small lengths of fuel tubing used as padding on the corners of the ignition where the ziptoes hit...
02-20-2007, 05:08 PM
#93
Senior Member
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (51)
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Ashland, KY
Posts: 5,833
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: PAU/BME 87" Extra 330L - Build and Fly
Here's a closeup of the throttle linkabe and fuel line coming through the firewall...
The DA50's come witht he red throttle arm as seen... but just the standard short choke arm... So I take a 1" HiTec Blue Aluminum servo arm, grind the collar off it and then drill and tap the choke rod for 2/56. THe servo arm is then screwed in place and a second screw goes through the original arm hole and blue arm.
I'll show it later, but I'll probably run a manual choke rod out the front of the cowl.
The DA50's come witht he red throttle arm as seen... but just the standard short choke arm... So I take a 1" HiTec Blue Aluminum servo arm, grind the collar off it and then drill and tap the choke rod for 2/56. THe servo arm is then screwed in place and a second screw goes through the original arm hole and blue arm.
I'll show it later, but I'll probably run a manual choke rod out the front of the cowl.
02-20-2007, 05:15 PM
#94
Senior Member
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (51)
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Ashland, KY
Posts: 5,833
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: PAU/BME 87" Extra 330L - Build and Fly
The ignition battery is placed on the other side of the engine box. This time I cut slots in the engine box side to allow for a single strip of double sided velcro. The battery has a strip of stickyback "loop" velcro on the top and a 1/2" foam pad underneath... the double sided velcro strap comes around, engages the velco on the battery and then straps to itself... makes a really firm hold but with plenty of "cushion". BEcause of the stip on the battery, there's no chance of it sliding out from under the strap...
In this pick you can see the balsa cover I made for the canister tunnel. I just cut a piece of 1/16" balsa sheet to fit and CA'd it in place...
In this pick you can see the balsa cover I made for the canister tunnel. I just cut a piece of 1/16" balsa sheet to fit and CA'd it in place...
02-20-2007, 05:22 PM
#95
Senior Member
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (51)
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Ashland, KY
Posts: 5,833
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: PAU/BME 87" Extra 330L - Build and Fly
I used a 16 oz Dubro tank... I soldered the fuel barbs onto both ends of the fuel tube and just the outside of the vent line tube. I still need to add a small ziptie to the lines going to the tank... I doubt they'd come off anyway with the barbs... but it's cheap insurance.
I lightly sanded the bottom of the tank and CA'd two blocks of 1/2" foam to the bottom... then I CA'd the foam to the tank floor. The design has those nice strap slots so I used two long Zipties to hold the tank in place... I used some of the loop double stick velcro as "pads" for the tank corners where the strap touches...
I tied a loop in the vent line and using a stick mount ziptied it to the tank floor... this is to help prevent fuel from dribbling out the ventline when inverted... I'm experimenting here as I see many do a HUGE loop of fuel line around or under and over the tank... Ithink this does the same thing with less weight and line...
I'm using a 2 line system on this plane... the white "T" fitting has a filler line branching off to go to a fuel dot.
I lightly sanded the bottom of the tank and CA'd two blocks of 1/2" foam to the bottom... then I CA'd the foam to the tank floor. The design has those nice strap slots so I used two long Zipties to hold the tank in place... I used some of the loop double stick velcro as "pads" for the tank corners where the strap touches...
I tied a loop in the vent line and using a stick mount ziptied it to the tank floor... this is to help prevent fuel from dribbling out the ventline when inverted... I'm experimenting here as I see many do a HUGE loop of fuel line around or under and over the tank... Ithink this does the same thing with less weight and line...
I'm using a 2 line system on this plane... the white "T" fitting has a filler line branching off to go to a fuel dot.
02-20-2007, 07:30 PM
#96
My Feedback: (45)
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Shelby Twp.,
MI
Posts: 750
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: PAU/BME 87" Extra 330L - Build and Fly
Dave,
I've been back from China for a couple of weeks, thought you would be done...
Who's pulling you in all these different directions?I would like to talk to them.
We have a build to finish..Looks like 3 inch stand-offs ?
Will you be at the Toledoe Show, I wanted to say hi?
regards, Ward
02-20-2007, 07:40 PM
#97
Senior Member
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (51)
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Ashland, KY
Posts: 5,833
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: PAU/BME 87" Extra 330L - Build and Fly
Yep... I plan on attending...
Work, work, work... and I THINK I've been building a few planes too.
Weather is breaking here and hopefully it'll stay... I'm pounding on this to get it done... Should be done by the weekend...
Work, work, work... and I THINK I've been building a few planes too.
Weather is breaking here and hopefully it'll stay... I'm pounding on this to get it done... Should be done by the weekend...
02-20-2007, 07:49 PM
#99
Senior Member
My Feedback: (82)
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Bellevue, WA
Posts: 1,306
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: PAU/BME 87" Extra 330L - Build and Fly
Physics works against you this time. The reason the loop goes around the entire tank is so the fuel does not drip out when oriented nose down (nose up the tubes are already positioned right). This is assuming the pressure of the liquid can only push it in the tube until it is level with the rest of the liquid. I think it was verbalized and proven during the Greek era.
You can do as many loops as you want in the tube - if they are all below the tank when nose down, fuel will loop in the tube and then drip out
ORIGINAL: Maudib
I used a 16 oz Dubro tank... I soldered the fuel barbs onto both ends of the fuel tube and just the outside of the vent line tube. I still need to add a small ziptie to the lines going to the tank... I doubt they'd come off anyway with the barbs... but it's cheap insurance.
I lightly sanded the bottom of the tank and CA'd two blocks of 1/2" foam to the bottom... then I CA'd the foam to the tank floor. The design has those nice strap slots so I used two long Zipties to hold the tank in place... I used some of the loop double stick velcro as "pads" for the tank corners where the strap touches...
I tied a loop in the vent line and using a stick mount ziptied it to the tank floor... this is to help prevent fuel from dribbling out the ventline when inverted... I'm experimenting here as I see many do a HUGE loop of fuel line around or under and over the tank... Ithink this does the same thing with less weight and line...
I'm using a 2 line system on this plane... the white "T" fitting has a filler line branching off to go to a fuel dot.
I used a 16 oz Dubro tank... I soldered the fuel barbs onto both ends of the fuel tube and just the outside of the vent line tube. I still need to add a small ziptie to the lines going to the tank... I doubt they'd come off anyway with the barbs... but it's cheap insurance.
I lightly sanded the bottom of the tank and CA'd two blocks of 1/2" foam to the bottom... then I CA'd the foam to the tank floor. The design has those nice strap slots so I used two long Zipties to hold the tank in place... I used some of the loop double stick velcro as "pads" for the tank corners where the strap touches...
I tied a loop in the vent line and using a stick mount ziptied it to the tank floor... this is to help prevent fuel from dribbling out the ventline when inverted... I'm experimenting here as I see many do a HUGE loop of fuel line around or under and over the tank... Ithink this does the same thing with less weight and line...
I'm using a 2 line system on this plane... the white "T" fitting has a filler line branching off to go to a fuel dot.
02-20-2007, 07:55 PM
#100
Senior Member
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (51)
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Ashland, KY
Posts: 5,833
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: PAU/BME 87" Extra 330L - Build and Fly
Ooops... sorry... yes 3" standoffs...
If one went with a canister they want the 1" (25mm) Drop header with flex section and the MTS 75K canister... the "K" is impoertnat because it's the fatter, shorter variety... the 75 is longer and narrower and will not fit (too long)
This build. (albeit spotty and slow for me to keep getting back to), has been an absolute breeze... I haven't run into anything that I had to "fix" or modify...
I LOVE the cowl ring setup... SO easy and takes a good bit of time off mounting one...
Attaching the canopy now... then the radio comes next... Servos are already in... just need to make up my pushrods, do the pull-pull and set the radio up.
If one went with a canister they want the 1" (25mm) Drop header with flex section and the MTS 75K canister... the "K" is impoertnat because it's the fatter, shorter variety... the 75 is longer and narrower and will not fit (too long)
This build. (albeit spotty and slow for me to keep getting back to), has been an absolute breeze... I haven't run into anything that I had to "fix" or modify...
I LOVE the cowl ring setup... SO easy and takes a good bit of time off mounting one...
Attaching the canopy now... then the radio comes next... Servos are already in... just need to make up my pushrods, do the pull-pull and set the radio up.