Everything Radial Engines
#1251
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Neat engine!! I NEED one.... no wait I NEED 5
LOL Man that thing looks cool. How much do you think it is going to cost $200-$300 some where in that range?

#1253
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Conley made a R/C Harley engine, though still a nice idea!
You know my dad used to make custom Harleys. My father was the one to make the first super-charged motorcycle
: though sadly I have nothing to so you guys to prove it.



#1254


#1255
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Had the pleasure of meeting Gary Conley at a few of the shows in the Chicago area but I never saw the Harley engine.
This guy is a Genius when it comes to miniature engines.
Bill
This guy is a Genius when it comes to miniature engines.
Bill
#1256

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Isn't that engine in the Youtube video above a 1/4 scale Knucklehead by Wally Warner over at Replica Engines?
Replicaengines.com and click on "past projects"
Replicaengines.com and click on "past projects"
#1259
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Hey guys. Sorry about the delay in replying. I'm running a 21/9 prop on the 400 radial. This tachs at about 6900 rpm. I've tried a few different venturi sizes down to 5.5mm!
I'm thinking (dreaming) of putting an RCS 150 into the Stearman instead!!
Woody.
I'm thinking (dreaming) of putting an RCS 150 into the Stearman instead!!
Woody.
#1260
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Hey Woody, sounds as if You were doing right till now, 21x9'' seems to be ok, and 6900 confirms this, You are not lugging the engine. Your venturi size seems to be ok too. I think, as radials suck their mixture through the crankcase, differences in mixture quality can only be felt with big delay and sometimes, small differences, as between correct and a small ammount rich, can't be felt at all. This makes adjusting a radial a bit difficult, even on my ST710 Seidel I can only tell the right main needle setting by testing the upper mid range load / revs, at full throttle it's very difficult to feel a rich mixture and absolutely impossible to find the correct needle setting.
You seem to be advanced radial user enough to set the carb right, so I'm affraid there is no other advice than to test plugs of different heat, on my Seidel ST540 colder plugs cured some similar problems. The most signifficant effect was, that, when pushing the stick to full throttle, revs got to about 6500 and after about a second dropped some 500 to 800rpm. If You can find a similar effect on Your 400, may be a too much advanced ignition timing is the basic problem. When the engine gets warm or hot while flying, this may cause even worse engine behavior.
What do You think?
gnome
Holm und Rippenbruch
You seem to be advanced radial user enough to set the carb right, so I'm affraid there is no other advice than to test plugs of different heat, on my Seidel ST540 colder plugs cured some similar problems. The most signifficant effect was, that, when pushing the stick to full throttle, revs got to about 6500 and after about a second dropped some 500 to 800rpm. If You can find a similar effect on Your 400, may be a too much advanced ignition timing is the basic problem. When the engine gets warm or hot while flying, this may cause even worse engine behavior.
What do You think?
gnome
Holm und Rippenbruch
#1262
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I just bought an OS 5300 and have a stupid question....................I cannot get the glow plug out with my usual wrenches, the ones I have do not seem to "seat" far enough down to unscrew it, I think. I have tried two or three others that don't seem to work..............anyone else have this problem?? Thanks
Dean
Dean
#1263


Woody:
Is your fuel tank pressurized ?
Dean, on a few of my ASP 4 strokes, I have to use a very thin walled X wrench to get to the plug......
Is your fuel tank pressurized ?
Dean, on a few of my ASP 4 strokes, I have to use a very thin walled X wrench to get to the plug......
#1267

In the way-way-back machine, wrenches used to come with motors, my experience was mainly the Saito line. This wrench was a thin machined, tubular shaped glowplug socket about 3 inches long (maybe 2" ) and have a hole in the top to run your favorite allen wrench through for a handle. These were specifically designed to slip into the tight space on the engine fins etc. to remove the glow plug. This was especially true on my 30 and 40 open rocker engines. If you can find one or some one who has one it will help you tremendously.
Still searching for a 3-5 cu. in. radial for sale (hint,hint,hint)
Still searching for a 3-5 cu. in. radial for sale (hint,hint,hint)

#1271
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You can also use a piece of silicone fuel tube (with the smallest inner diameter) to help start the plug onto the cylinder head. Do this by pushing the electrode of the plug onto the tubing. Then, begin to thread the plug onto the cylinder using the tubing as an extension. Once you have a few revolutions on the plug just pull the tubing off the plug and finish tightening with the wrench. This is a great way ensure the threads of the plug are meshing correctly with the threads from the cylinder and will ensure against any cross threading.
#1272


I have a question regarding my ASP 400 ; is it normal for a 5 cylinder glow radial to not run properly when the glow ign. is removed ,even at mid revs. My Saito 90 r3 ran fine without glow driver ,but my ASP need it all the time . Do the saito 325 and os 300 need the glow drivers almost all the time too?