Ladyflyer

My Feedback: (2)

Hello Ernie,

There is not a lot to gain from manual lubrication. As the engines wear and loosen up a bit the normal clicking can become quite pronounced. The clicking sound for the most part is caused by the gear tooth clearance. As the cam nose centerline moves from lifting to closing the gear backlash shifts sides causing a click. Gear wear is a bit high on Saitos even under good conditions, worse with poor lube or corrosion products.

Regarding the use of castor on 56 and 62 Saitos from another post ? Yes, we have been using castor on all Saitos long before Saito approved. We have some very high time .45, .50 and .56 Saitos that have seen nothing but castor fortified fuels. We use castor in our latest Saitos as well. The lube needs have not changed between the 50 and the 56 72 82 etc. In fact the castor may be even more critical with the newer engines.

YS? The slime that may be found at times in YS engines is more often caused by reactions between alcohol-synthetic lubes and moisture. It is found just as often in synthetic lubed fuels as castor fortified fuels. Can't blame the slime on the castor. In any case, better to tear down an engine for a good cleaning than to tear down for parts replacement.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Looks like you got some bad plugs?

Ladyflyer

My Feedback: (2)

Dan,
I just read your post . We bought a dozen OS F plugs ....from eBay . Sorry to say but so far there were two bad plugs ! One plug would just quit at any speed very soon after the power was taken from the plug. The other just refused to idle . I had thought either the plugs were bogus or that it was just a quirk. At the time I considered mentioning the problem in a post but I thought it may be unfair to OS since I did go on a cheap binge and bought from grey market. I wonder if your source was from the regular importer ?

In both cases we experienced an Enya #3 got the engine running beautifully.

Ken Cz

Hi,
I'm sure it has been covered here somewhere is over 700 pages but can someone save me the time and let
me know the 'starting point' or 'original factory setting' for the low speed needle on a Saito 125?

The owners manual indicates the top of the adjusting screw should be 'flush' with the throttle housing arm that I
interpret as the face of black plastic throttle arm - but it just not totally clear in the manual.

I purchased a used (10-20 flights) 125 and it runs very-very hot and would not idle down.
Ran rough/shaking too. Very hot to the touch, even the spinner, so I shut it down.

I have reset the valve gap , opened the high speed needle to 4 turn out but
not sure where to set the low speed needle for a starting point.

I am using an APC 16x6 since Saito indicates that is the benchmark prop.

The previous owner had a 14x6 on it which seemed to small to me plus he used OBG system.

Thanks for any help.
Ken Cz - Oxford MI

Ladyflyer

My Feedback: (2)

Ken,
You can take a piece of fuel line and hook it up to the fuel inlet. Set the engine at a fast idle setting (approximate,not running of course). Now place the tube between your lips and blow. You can now turn the idle needle in until the air stops. Once you cannot blow into the tube slowly open the idle screw until you can just detect a little airflow. You can open about 1/8th to 1/4 turn . Set the high speed needle at about 3 1/2 turns open.

We should know a bit more. What fuel? Glow plug ? Have you looked inside ? Even a low time poorly maintained engine can have early bearing problems from rust or dirt. Bearing problems can really heat up the forward engine areas just as you described.

beeper0358

Thanks w8ye, Ladyflyer - I bought those plugs from tower hobbies [] I guess I need to order more plugs from a different source

Ken Cz

Ladyflyer,
Thanks for the tip on 'blow method'.
I will try it over the weekend and give it a go.
I am using Cool Power 15% nitro all syn. oil.
Plug is brand new OS "F".

I have not pulled the engine apart at this point.
I was told the engine ran great with no problems so now I am a bit worried
about the overheating.
I suspect you may be right and the bearing are shot - or something even worse.
That would certainly explain even the spinner being hot!
Ken Cz

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

The factory setting for the low speed mixture screw on the Saito 125 is flush with the outside face of the throttle arm.

This setting will have the idle running rich.

The proper procedure for setting the carb mixture is to then peak the high speed mixture setting at full high speed.

Then return to minimum speed and lean the low speed screw in1/8 turn. The engine will now idle faster but try to advance the throttle - if the engine takes the throttle and speeds up

When you attempt to screw the needle in, the throttle barrel will push in slightly and lean the mixture more but just turn the screw 1/8 turn at a time and the carb barrel will come back out when you remove the screw driver.

Go through this again turning the low speed needle in 1/8 turn and the idle will be better

Eventually you will reach a point where the engine will try to quit when you advance the throttle.

Open the idle mixture needle up 1/8 turn at a time and just get the engine to the point where it will accelerate from idle

Now go back to full speed again and find the peak rpm for the high speed mixture screw and then richen it up 3 or 4 clicks

Your needles are now set

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Until you get the overheating under control, you are going to have to run a 15 X 6 prop

If the engine is vibrating bad, you may have bad bearings? Do the bearings feel rough when you turn the prop?

With the previous owner running a 14 X 6, he may have ruined the rear bearing?

Rudolph Hart

Ken when you look at your aeroplane try gripping the prop lightly between thumb and forefiger halfway out on the prop then gently try to rock it back and forth..feel any movement?

Ken Cz

W8YE and Old Fart,
Thanks for the tips. I will use them all.
The overheating really concerns me as I sure don't want to damage the engine further
or take a chance on a dead stick and losing another plane!

Club Siato Rocks!

Best!
Ken

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

I recently repaired a Saito 100 that was sent to me because it vibrated.

It apparently had been run with a smallish prop

The cage of the rear bearing was destroyed and all the balls were on one side. The engine would not turn over

Ron Ben

I have a saito 56 I would like to know what muffler to use to mount the engine inverted in a Sig 1/5 scale cub

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Over the years there have been several different mufflers on the Saito 56

There's a unmuffled thin wall brass tube

There's a steel pipe with a 30 degree bend with a machined aluminum tubular muffler on the end

A straight all threaded steel pipe with a cast angled muffler on the end

A 15 degree steel pipe with the cast muffler

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

http://www.rcuniverse.com/community/...e&memid=308094

This is a good choice, it requires a round hole very near the stock location of a real Cub.

Jimmy Hoffa

My Feedback: (3)

When I do that with my Saito .82 I can detected a slight amount of side to side movement. There is no forward to rear play. Otherwise my bearings are smooth and not making any noise. I am experiencing some vibration but thought it might be because I recently installed it on a profile plane.

Phillip

Rudolph Hart

Philip whip the bearings out and replace them,any movement is bad.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

In a model engine with some time on it, the bearings will get sloppy and still feel smooth. It is time to replace them before you have trouble

FNQFLYER

Just got back from freezing in the SE corner of QLD (down to 12 degrees damm it) and playing at Calvert field. Of course I had to talk to the troops about fuels etc so here is the wash up from about 20 flyers at Calvert and other places

Cool power blue, used for sports 4 stroke and 2 stroke engines as well, medium viscosity etc and also used in comps by those with tight purse strings
Cool power pink low viscosity used by the helicopter boys and in fact Tates use it in their pre mixed fuels, I and others like me use it in the competition engines.

NOW apart from the obvious motor bike (2 strokes) oil that a lot of people there are a number of 3D flyers and scale racing comp fliers using Cool power blue in their petrol (gas) engines with lots of time on the engines (50 hrs racing and / or practise) and no apparent detrimental effect on said engines

And for those in the North Uncle Les at Innisfail has all sorts of Cool Power Oils (I have my 5 litres of pink put aside) and in the South Wings Over the Downs at Toowomba is a good place to start.

I hope the last doesn't offend or break the rules but these people support and look after us isolated people and for soe are hard to find.

To answer W8ye it is some times harder to get good fuel supplies (and components) in the cities than out here in the "bush". I actually send bits to my mate in Rosewood just outside Brisbane because he can't get the stuff from the city based Hobby Shops

FNQFLYER

Why don't you guys use the Saito plugs that come with the engine and then replace them with new Saito plugs???

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

The OS "F" has been our standard four stroke plug for years. The Saito "SS" plug has only been around for about 5 years

I cannot see any difference in them my self except for the grooves cut in the stem. They seem to run the same as does the Y-S plug

FNQFLYER

Yep, I agree, I use the OS F plug a lot but when I can get them I use the Saito ones in preference, YS is different I always use the YS plug or if I am desperate and hey are available I use a Fox Miricale (spelling not good still warming up after trip south) The hot Enya 3 was the plug of choice in Malaysia when I wasthere but not so much here.
One other thing I learnt when we are flying O/T comps I always put a new plug into the engine for the "fly off" , always seems to give me a little "lift" in performance just when it is needed, expensive but what the heck you only live once.  

charlie1960

A good chance it may cure the vibration too.
Its a thought.[:-]

FNQFLYER

Before the Saito SS plugs we used to be able to get Saito plugs numbered 1, 2, and 3 that were supposed to be used in the various different engines that Saito had out at the time.
However that all being said I believe in using OEM where ever possible as well as factory recommendations unless I am looking for performance beyond that that is recommended / stated by the manufacturer and then I accept the consequences no matter what hey might be including but not limited to lifting barrels of cylinders while the engine is under max power at max plus factory stated RPM, results are impressive in the viewing but not on the hip pocket nerve

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Before the Saito "SS" plug there was only the plugs that Horizon Hobby supplied with them in this country

There was the McCoy MC4 then the type with the ball on the tip of the stem and then the Hanger 9 Super Plug (Four stroke plug)