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Old 07-22-2012, 09:08 PM
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ORIGINAL: Hobbsy

Ok Garry, since the HS needle has a fixed seat its best to set the HS at full peak and leave it there while adjusting the LS needle, this eliminates one variable You always want the LS needle a little on the rich side when the setting the HS needle the first time, Once the ZLS needle is set, it will be a long time before it needs attention again if ever. A too lean LS needle renders the HS needle ineffective.
OK Dave, Iunderstand what you're saying and Ihave learned more about the relationship between the two today. The LSis still rich as is evident by the pinch test at idle (rpm rises when pinched). There's a lot of smoke when transitioning to higher rpm and there's a light smoke trail at high rpm. I don't know if that's an indicator of anything other than the amount of lube that's in the fuel. I'm using 30% nitro/23% lube heli fuel at the moment. The engine seems to like it but, it sure smokes a lot. One or two neighbors may have thought my garage was on fire but, nobody called the FD ...thank God.
I'll put the plane on the run-up bench again tomorrow and see if Ican reach a better setting between the two. At the moment, transition is smooth, idle is OK, and high speed is good with no excessive heat. However, I don't think Ileft the HSneedle at max. rpm while adjusting the LS. I'm pretty sure Iadjusted it about 500 or 600 rpm down from peak and then adjusted the LS. I'll try to correct that tomorrow.

Thanks again,
Garry

Old 07-22-2012, 09:16 PM
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Ohhh I won't sleep well after seeing that dirty engine. Don't they run better when they're clean and shiny?
Old 07-22-2012, 11:35 PM
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Hi Fretts

I had a similar problem losing cylinders on an inverted 200ti. I then mounted it upright on a 120 Ultrastick and ran a couple of gallons of fuel through it.
It now behaves inverted with no onboard glow.

James
Old 07-23-2012, 03:19 AM
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Your LS needle is not a needle at all, it is a sleeve that moves in and out controling how much the cats eye is exposed to the air flow. Picture #1 should be your spraybar, Picture #2 is a 2.20 showing the spraybar and sleeve, picture #3 is a SuperTigre carb which has a flat ended rod that moves in and out of the spraybar doing the same job as the sleeve in the Saito carb. If you already know all this, I apologise.
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Old 07-23-2012, 05:15 AM
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Oh no, all these yrs thinking that the LS was a needle, I'm disappointed 
Old 07-23-2012, 08:15 AM
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It's just a blunt needle.
Old 07-23-2012, 08:36 AM
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Uff, OK I will sleep better tonite
Old 07-23-2012, 10:52 AM
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Here are the spraybar and the LS mixture control.
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Old 07-23-2012, 01:32 PM
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This little LT 25 kit is AlmostReady to Fly[8D], it only lack the battery being installed. The 6oz Sullivan flex tank is lost in there, I set it up with three lines and on center with the carb. The prop is Graupner three blade 9x7 with TruTurn spinner and adapter. The .30 runs like a Swiss watch with the Taipan 4c plug. Its a bolt on wing, I don't like rubber bands.
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Old 07-23-2012, 01:37 PM
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Thanks again Dave. That's valuable info for me as I've not removed them from the carb. Iunderstand the operation much better now. Understanding how things work helps a bunch and pictures are a large help.
Iwon't get a chance to adjust the carb today as planned as other tasks have priority but, will attempt it tomorrow.

RJ
Old 07-23-2012, 01:41 PM
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ORIGINAL: RC-Bearings


ORIGINAL: Hobbsy

Stainless would not last nearly as long as the HardChrome bearings plus Boca is a sponsor of this site. And I honor that.
There is no basis for this comment. Hard Chrome is a plating process that is not used on bearings. It is used to hard face wear areas such as cam lobes, etc. Stainless steel used in bearings is hardened to the same range as the chrome steel used in bearings. I sell many times more stainless sets than chrome steel because of the rust issue. No one has yet complained about shorter service life.
This is interesting. So what do I sacrifice if I go with stainless steel set instead of the hard chrome set? Nothing except for a little price difference? How's the max performance? Anayways, I think the worst alternative is to use bearings that may fail in the way that happened to my engine: the ring that holds the balls in their place failed totally = metal particles all over the inside of the engine. So is it now such that the stainless steel bearings just wear out, like good quality hard chrome bearings? Further, I think changing bearings in every winter as a regular maintenance is something I can live with. I would not like, however, to dismantle an engine during the flying season for changing bearings. I think I run somewhat 6-10 gallons of fuel (15% nitro) in every season. So what do you think might suit best in my case: hard chrome or stainless steel bearings? Thanks artto
Old 07-23-2012, 01:54 PM
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Garry, as my son used to say when he was little, "there gots to be a reason."
Old 07-23-2012, 02:19 PM
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Old 07-23-2012, 02:51 PM
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Ibelieve you can get BOCA bearings with a high speed non metallic retainer to help avoid retainer related issues.
Old 07-23-2012, 04:58 PM
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Thanks, BLW. I'll look at that first. It might have gotten readjusted by mistake - I don't recall ever touching it otherwise.

That's the type of info that I was looking for,

Bob
Old 07-23-2012, 05:07 PM
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Frets i have no experience with the 2ooti but my 200r3 benefits from 20% nitro instead of the usual 10% re dead lower left cylinder at idle.Have also heard you can run 7% to 10% petrol to help the low speed running.
Old 07-23-2012, 06:29 PM
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The petrol angle is quite interesting. I'd like to hear more on that. I may mount up the 91s this weekend and see if it might run a bit smoother on a alchohl/nitro/petrol/castor cocktail[&:] It makes a bit of sense though...we are blending 10-15% alchohol/methanol in the gasoline here, stateside; why not the reverse?
Old 07-23-2012, 06:55 PM
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Looking for a velocity stack to a .82

Anyone have a spare they would part with?
Old 07-23-2012, 07:00 PM
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ORIGINAL: AeroFinn


ORIGINAL: RC-Bearings


ORIGINAL: Hobbsy

Stainless would not last nearly as long as the HardChrome bearings plus Boca is a sponsor of this site. And I honor that.
There is no basis for this comment. Hard Chrome is a plating process that is not used on bearings. It is used to hard face wear areas such as cam lobes, etc. Stainless steel used in bearings is hardened to the same range as the chrome steel used in bearings. I sell many times more stainless sets than chrome steel because of the rust issue. No one has yet complained about shorter service life.
This is interesting. So what do I sacrifice if I go with stainless steel set instead of the hard chrome set? Nothing except for a little price difference? How's the max performance? Anayways, I think the worst alternative is to use bearings that may fail in the way that happened to my engine: the ring that holds the balls in their place failed totally = metal particles all over the inside of the engine. So is it now such that the stainless steel bearings just wear out, like good quality hard chrome bearings? Further, I think changing bearings in every winter as a regular maintenance is something I can live with. I would not like, however, to dismantle an engine during the flying season for changing bearings. I think I run somewhat 6-10 gallons of fuel (15% nitro) in every season. So what do you think might suit best in my case: hard chrome or stainless steel bearings? Thanks artto
I run strictly SS bearings and change them every year. You are wasting your money paying for anything else. They must be seated properly as well, my guess is that the rear bearing was not seated completely causing catastrophic failure.

I use only helicopter fuel in my saito which has 30% nitro and 23% oil content. Saito suggests this as well and to be fair, I fly helicopters so I already have access to the fuel and have several cases of it.

"A fuel with 10 to 15% nitro is fine, however higher nitro content (up to 30%) is suggested"

ALL my bearings come from RC-Bearings and not one has ever failed on any of my motors. I don't use after run oil or magic potions. My motors sit in the model in my garage all winter and start right up at the beginning of the season with zero rust.

RC-Bearings is the only place you should be buying bearings, period.
Old 07-24-2012, 04:32 AM
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Quote, RC-Bearings is the only place you should be buying bearings, period

I say the same about BOCA but I leave out the should, I say BOCA is the better choice because my experience with them is exemplary.
Old 07-24-2012, 05:05 AM
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G'day Dave.

I like your LT-25 above. I have just finished one too. It does not have a Saito in it though I did toy with the idea of putting either a 30 or a 40 in it (I have each) but it ended up with a new Enya 36 4c. Just thought you might like to see my four stroke powered LT-25 even if it does not have a Saito (at the moment).

My last one went through a string of different engines ending up with a very old OS FS40. I recently gave it away to a friend who can no longer build for himself.

The new one is covered in Solatex which was left over from some other larger models. The top is Olive Drab and it is Cub Yellow underneath. The markings are a rough approximation of WWII British Tigre Moth trainer markings and so is the colour scheme. I call it "The Stealth Trainer".

It had its first flight last week and it flew beautifully. It is not hard to see at all from underneath. Sig really do know how to design a great trainer.

Cheers

Mike in Oz

Old 07-24-2012, 05:10 AM
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G'day again Dave

And here is a picture of my new LT-25 "Stealth Trainer".

Mike

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Old 07-24-2012, 05:29 AM
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Very nice Mike, I violated my last LT 25 by installing a nose gear on it. The bolt on wing and the nose gear are very easy to do on the LT 25. I am going to try that 9x7 Graupner today, it may be too much, if so I have an 8x6 3blade also. The 10.5x5 was the perfect prop for grass, it would jump out of the grass. If the grass was short I ran a 10x5.5 and it would do a more scale like take off run. This was all while flying the nose gear equipped LT.
Old 07-24-2012, 09:08 AM
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Mike, as promised above I ran the little .30 with, first the Graupner three blade 9x7 and about 50 rpm under peak it madeL

Graupner 9x7 three blade rpm===8,350, idle was a nice easy slightly lopey 1,700

Graupner 8x6 three blade rpm==10,293, idle was 1,865
Fuel==WildCat 15% Premium Extra
Plug==Taipan 4c
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Old 07-24-2012, 01:15 PM
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ORIGINAL: svenska3

I have this beautiful 125 I need to find a plane for. I'm a intermediate pilot. I don't fly 3-D. Any suggestions???

Walt

I've just installed a 125 in a Great Planes WACO YMF-5D. Superb combination.

Still breaking mine in on YS 20/20 fuel. It leaves quite a smoke trail and a lot of slime on the bottom after a flight. I've been slowly leaning the low speed needle to get a more reliable idle.

Jaybird
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