Your trying to shove numbers down their throats and that your way is the right way. Well its not. Look at where these guys are from. Richen it up, lean it out, 10%, this plug that plug, add 350 rpm, take 350 rpm2 turns here , 1/1/2 turn their. This may work in your area but is totally different in other parts of the country and world. This is not rocket science here. Two like items will more than likely not operate in the same manner- or even close and especially if you not even in the same area.

It reminds me of Tower Hobbies selling their combo with a cheap 40 la to some sucker in Denver. They should know better. Oh by the way, Ya I know, I don't exist to you any more![sm=spinnyeyes.gif]

I just ran the engine again, with a little different setup. This time one stack was plugged, and the other one was wide open. I might add that the end of the open stack had to be cut off to allow the cowling to be installed. I then added an extension of about 3", but did not reduce the diameter. The 16-10 prop seemed very promissing, but when I switched to the 16-8, I was even more impressed. This engine runs like an OS 46FX. It will idle all day long and accept full throttle at any time. Unfortunately, my tach battery is dead, so I don't have any real numbers to share. It sounded best with the one stack open, and performed perfectly on the 16-8. Nose up tests didn't provide me with any surprises. Still running 10% powermaster. There is a video on here somewhere showing STG doing engine tests on his 160FX on a pipe, with instant accelleration. My engine performed exactly the same as what you see in his video. Only difference being the prop size. I don't know how I could ask for anything more out of such an affordable engine. Regardless of price, this thing is now perfect.

Gentlemen, I think we've stumbled across our first Female engine.

Never does want you want it to
Runs when it FEELS like it (hardly ever)
Always moody

And we can't stand them, but love it when they perform!

LOL

Hey Speedster: I agree whole heartedly. In fact, I would be glad to take unwanted ST 2300s of $45 off of those who lack the patience. I will help them recover from their loss, and at the same time pickup an engine that I love tinkering with. I have plenty of planes that can use the power plant. So guys if you are totally disgusted with these engines, drop me an email: [email protected].

I just got my flat bar and high speed needle spraybar assembly from my LHS for $15. Also got the G-500 muffler. This is for the G-500 super tigre I'm putting togeather. ( 40 size ABC ) funny this same spraybar is the one some guys say it pukes to much fuel on a 3 1/2 times larger engine.

Don't forget those who blame the problems on the engine instead of themselves who can't tune a engine.

Hehehehe I'm glad you liked the 16-8 ,like I said spool up is scary .
Wait untill you fly your plane, be prepared for a whole new ball game is all I can say.

I've been trying to get over the flu for about a week now. I got a new tach battery, but haven't been able to check it out yet. Everything is sitting here ready to go. We are supposed to have strong winds right thru the weekend. Maybe I can at least get some tach readings .

I guess when it comes to ST engines, they are revvers up to and including the 2300, and starting with the 3250, they are torquers. Some of the numbers I see the 3250 is putting out, the 2300 will do also. It just doesn't seem to like to run that slow. If all you want to do is fly around at full throttle, it'll do that, but I need all power settings to be reliable.

After you get this thing in the air and all works out I think you should attach a tuned exhaust to her rust for the fun of it. By the way it revs up the tuned exhaust would make it into a rocket.

Not a bad idea. It's just a matter of the mighty dollar. The engine sounds really cool with the bisson muffler and one stack plugged. I've never heard anything this small sound like it before. It may have something to do with the extension I put on the open stack. Looks like I may get to fly this weekend. I think the wind may calm a bit. This will be a maiden on a new model.

The engine tached 9200 on the 16-8. I backed it way off to keep it cool in the cowling. The model flew fine, and at 11 pounds, the 2300 pulled it very well. Ran perfect. Never so much as a hiccup, spit, pop, or sputter. Ran well at all power settings, and cruising at 1/3 throttle is not an issue. No hesitation from idle, and no leaning in flight. What more could you ask for? I very happy

Not24 - I'll be giving my 2300 another chance with the Moki carb installed. Am getting a great deal on a H9 Funtana 90. A 17 X 6 APC and it should get along fine. Checking Funtana threads revealed that more than a few people report that this is a great combo - should be fun!

The Funtana 90 and ST 2300 is a great combination indeed. It certainly isn't too much motor for the Funtana. This plane needs lots of power and the 2300 has that. The 17X6 is the perfect prop for this engine and plane also. It is amazing how long the 2300 will fly on this plane. I fly mine for over 14 minutes and still land with plenty of fuel.

not24- my chinese 2300 also runs VERY well with the stock carb and an apc 16-8 prop. i use 10% omega and it turns 9000-9200 with a slimline quiet style mufller, with the tubes crimped about 1/3 closed. it idles very well for extended periods of 1-3 minutes and then will spool up with no hesitation. it runs smoothly at all engine speeds. just a very boring engine . I run this in my top flite 63 inch p47.

for my warbirds this engine is a super replacement for a 150 or 180 4 stroke. i bought 2 more 2300s, and I also bought a cline regulator. I intend to run one of them inverted in a 120 mustang and if i can't lower the tank c/l to be even with the carb c/l i will use the cline to keep the engine from getting flooded and to get even fuel flow as the tank empties.

ed

I really liked the three flights I got on my F90 with the 2300. This was the perfect balance, and perfect amount of power. I may actually miss that plane.

I'm glad to hear there are people out there who are happy with the stock carb on the 2300. All I can say is that if every engine sold ran like mine does, they'd be everywhere. Now that I have actually flown it on the 16-8, I would say it's at least equal to the saito 150. I had only flown a 180 one time, and it was on a heavy extra 300. With the single stack on the Bisson muffler, it sounds sweet in the air. I'm not feeling out classed by the four stroke guys anymore.

Hi Guys: I also had trouble as stated before with the carb on the 2300, In attempting to get the adjustment right I ran through about a gallon and half of fuel and still did not have the runs I need. So upon reading all here, I did get the OS 7d as I stated earlier with the discounts from Tower it ended up on $8 more costly than the magnum for me. I also got the adapter from tower or bushing so that it was a slip in fit. Well the fruit is that I tried it this morning for the first time. It turned the apc 17X6 at 9100 slightly rich. It idles 1-4 minutes and then transitions to full power very reliably, and now I have a super engine. I may still at a latter date try to do more with original carb, but not on my new Giles 202. I have the uniflow tank system, and a one way valve on the muffler side.

Works beautifully. with much power. Now it must warm up much more here in Michigan to get it in air after a few flights on my Sukhoi or Mustang.
Rich

O yes Bisson Pitts muffler one tube pinched shut.

Rich, Glad to hear you are happy now with yours. 9100 sounds a little slow for a 17-6, as mine turned an 18-6 at 9250, but there are differences in props. Mine are the Master airscrew classics. I like them due to their durability. I would say that as long as you are over 9k, it should run very well in the air for you. This engine, in my opinion, runs like a strong 1.20, and should be propped as such. I'm a little disappointed in that, because I thought this engine was supposed to be very good at lugging big props, which would allow for a transition into giant scale. My Sukhoi flew fine on the 16-8. Had plenty of power, vertical performance, and good manners all around. The Sukhoi is very draggy, so it's not too fast, but it is faster than the F90 with the 18-6. I'm running 10% Powermaster in mine, and will be sticking with it. It's the best fuel I have run so far.

Thanks for reply, my tach may be a bit off due to lens needing cleaning, and I did not have it tweeked, I could get a little more lean. I am sure I will like it. The prop was APC
Rich

Excellent[8D]

Hi Guys. I just found this thread and I must say it is very informative. I would like to share some experience I had with my ST-2300 in hopes that I am adding some useful information to this very informative discussion. Last year I purchased a used Excelleron 90 with a ST-2300 up front. The plane came with a uniflow tank system in it, and this was my first encounter with this type of fuel feed. I read every thing I could find here and elsewhere on this type of fuel system. After extensive research on uniflow tanks I thought I understood the concept very well. However after many attempts of trying to get a good needle setting on the 2300 I was stymied. The engine would go lean and then rich without me touching anything. I checked everything I could think of for air leeks and found nothing wrong.

The plane also had a KS canister muffler with a pressure tap on the input pipe just before the large diameter of the canister. When I disconnected the pressure line from the muffler and opened the top vent to the tank, the problem changed to a lean top end and a rich idle and a rich low to mid range. I thought that muffler pressure was the problem but had no way of measuring this pressure. I had heard that GOOD muffler pressure was between .5 and 1 psi, which is not much at all. Not wonting to spend $500.00 plus for a micro-manometer I made a simple U-tube manometer using a wood yardstick, fish-tank tubing and fittings from Wal-mart. Total cost about $10.00. This simple manometer will read up to one PSI, is calibrated in tenths of a psi and reasonably accurate to within one-hundredth psi. I use a T-fitting between the muffler and tank to read the pressure. It works better than I expected. I now can read and see what muffler pressure I actually have.

With this new ability I found the exact problem. The fitting at the input pipe of the muffler was perpendicular to the high-speed hot exhaust gases and sometimes causing a positive pressure and sometimes causing a negative pressure. I removed the fitting and cut the end on a 45 degree angle so that the hot exhaust gases would go into the fitting and pressurize the tank. Much like an air ram. It work very good and I now have a steady .4 psi at WOT and about .05 psi at idle. I am still having a somewhat rich midrange. The reason for passing this along is that if you take an accurate reading of muffler pressure with the stock ST muffler and then pinch down the tubes on the Pitts muffler to obtain the same pressure reading the engine should perform as designed.

So, with a new carburetor that sucks more fuel and higher muffler pressure to push more fuel we will get these ST 2300s to run like the high dollar engines.

I still cannot get the uniflow tank system to work to my liking, but I learnt a lot trying.

Old Bob

hey anyone have good luck with only PARTIALLY blocking ONE stack on a bisson pitts?

Way back, in the beginning, I tried the stock muffler and the Bisson pitts muffler. This was before any tweaking began on the carb. With the stock muffler, I could get it to richen up somewhat, enough to lose about 2000 rpm from peak. With the Bisson, it would not run rich, not even a little bit. By temporarily plugging one pipe with my chicken stick, it would richen up nicely at full throttle, and sounded better too. Before I flew the engine, I piched both outlets equally closed, to try to simulate the area of only one tube open. This is the way I flew for the first few flights, and this is when I had lean runs and dead sticks. I also had a sloppy transition and midrange. Partially blocking only one tube, I don't think, would provide enough pressure to the tank. The difference between the stock muffler and the stock Bisson muffler was only 200 rpm, so the ecxessive back pressure doesn't cost very much top end. Privided your carb is working acceptably, completely blocking one tube should get you the back pressure that you need. My carb never really ran acceptably, so I changed it to the Magnum carb. You may notce the rolled edges on the tubes of the Bisson muffler. This reduces the area somewhat. I had to cut my stack down for istallation purposaes, and I cut the rolled area off. Now the one is closed, and the other is wide open. It runs and sounds best that way.

Alright everyone I've got my 2300 running perfect after 4 LONG gallons of fuel. Here's my setup. Try it before you give up.

-OS F Plug

-Bisson Pitts with 1 tube blocked and then drilled out with 7/64 drill bit. (allows excessive oil and fuel to drain)

-Large fuel tubing on EVERYTHING including Large clunk

-Perry Non-Pump Carb (Allow for carb opening to only open 85%) THERE IS NO RPM GAIN AFTER THAT!!!! Just bad transition.
*this creates slightly larger diameter as OS 7D at full throttle*

-14 ounce fuel Tank = Solid 15 minute flight NOT including taxi and landing. (conventional tank setup)
*Tank Must be center with SPRAYBAR! NOT thrustline

-Mejzlik 18x6 (9000 rpm on 5% Omega) !!!!! Prop is For Sale !!!!! -- going to be using 19x6 Bolly ---

This Combo has finally gave me NO deadsticks, Idle at 2300, PERFECT 3D Transition, and Hey! how can you say no to 9K on 5%?

good Luck-