Thanks, Raptureboy, sounds like a good system, one that will last.
Today I will put the first of two coats of Ployester Glass Resin on everything from the transition rings forward, basically everything under thecowl.This will fuel proof the area. Unfortunately the stuff stinks so much that once I apply it I'll have to leave the workshop for the day. After that I will start on the instrument dash panel and glass the center section of the wing....then there's a whole lot of saaaaannnnnndddddiiiinnnnggggg

Oldscaleguy, did I give you the correctmeasurement that you needed?

Hey VJ thanks for the dimension that does help. The one i really need is, let's say looking from the top of the engine, the centerline of the crankshaft to the outside edge of the muffler, so basically half the width of the engine plus muffler. Next up for my Son and i is a Top Flite Spitfire, the nose of that plane is narrow. We may end up with some larger glow engine to fit inside the narrow cowling. Thanks again.

OK, the dimension is 1 11/16". Again if that is too wide for your application just give J-tec the dimensions that you have and they can shorted or even taper the exhaust to fit. Robert (Acerc) did that on his Cub. Maybe Robert could post a photo of the modifications that J-tec did on his engine's exhaust?

Great. I think we have a winner, especially if they can do a bit of a taper. Thanks VJ! Sorry we got off of the subject here a bit.

Tim, you flying today?

Here's a couple pics of the Jtec custom made and the cowl with it in. Hope it helps ya.

Alas, no. I was at my daughter's gymnastics meet for most of the day. Did the wind stay down?

Thanks Robert for posting that for Steve. Good example of how the exhaust can ne modified to fit your needs/space.

I dodged a bullet tonight that I would like to share with you. As I stated earlier, tonight I wanted to lay down the Polyester Glass Resin under the cowl area. I used it last for my Cub and I liked how it hardened the wood and howit sanded. I remember last I used it besides the terrible smell the resin came out kind of clear and when you mixed the proper amount of catalyistit changed its color ever so slightly. Well as I poured the resin from its container I noticed that it was a little darker than what I remembered it to be and when I put the 15 drops of catalyist init didn't change color. WellI decided to stop and re-read the directions and I'm glad I did becausethe directionssaid that this product has a shelf life depending on the climate it's stored in and it could range anywhere from <u>6 months to two years</u>.I decided to use a bit of it onjust the cover hatchas a test thinking if it dosen't cure I can easily make another. Well hours later and guess what didn't harden. I'm glad thelazy side of me didn't just say go ahead put iton it will be fine...Looks like another trip to the LHS, but at least a disaster was averted.

Tim missed you at the field, we had to fly with a bit of wind which made us land in a direction we all hate, but no crashes so it was a good day. Of course the wind decided to calm downjust as I packed my gear and headed home...

Thanks for sharing that VJ!  I haven't need to do anything like that yet, but I'll put it into the storage banks for later.... just hope I can retrieve it later!

VJ, been there done that with epoxy. Even though I buy System 3, when I get it I put a label on with date of experation. Irregardless of how much is left I toss it when that day comes. Just not worth the risk. Even if it was to appear to do its job I don't know what the true weakness is.
  When I bought the stock pitts pipe for the cub I was really unhappy. Then someone told me of Jtec, at that point in time it would not have mattered what they charged I would have paid it. Great pipes and service.

Similer story with the poly resin also. I covered an entire wing with some stuff I bought from the local home center and days later itwas stilltacky. Icalled the vendor and they told me how to read the date code and found out it was months too old. On his suggestion I recoated with a fresh batch and that helped cure it but Istill ended up wet sanding a lot of it off with 80 grit paperIwent back to the home center and told the guy in the paint dept that all he had on the shelf was outdated. Ionly use epoxy now and have never had a problem and the smell is much more tolerable. Close call VJ

Ah the dreaded landing approach from the south. Sorry Imissed it. As we pulled into the driveway about 3:45 I noticed things seemed pretty still and said to myself, "If I move quickly, I could get to the field with just enough daylight to get in one flight." But the list of things my wife wanted to get done before sunset was quicker. Sigh.

LOL, sorry Tim

Nothing worth taking a picture of tonight. I installed the aluminum bracket that goes through the upper part of the fuse that will attatch to the flying wires. Couldn't do much else as I need supplies from the LHS (closed on Mondays). Will resume tomorrow night if I don't get home too late.

I just finished getting caught up on your build. I am most interested since I recently became the recipient of a partially built SIG Ryan STA. I've rounded up most of the missing parts such as cowl and misc balsa and plywood. I don't have the instruction book. After reading your posts I will have to back up a few steps before I can go forward. I like all of your additions of reinforcing in stratigic locations. I may not need the instruction book it if I follow your build. I can only hope I can do as good job as I have only repaired planes and never built one from a kit before. The rudder, horizontal stab., wing, ailerons and front half of the fuse is built. I'll need to remove some sheeting on the wing in order to reinforce it around the landing gear and joint of the wing halves as you have done. I like the idea of flaps so will be making that modification as well. I will have to make all of the parts for the back half of the fuse I looks like this was partially framed but not sheeted at one time but got severly damaged. I have both side panels but no bulkheads. I'll be using a Magnum 91 4 stroke with onboard glow. I have to move the firewall back a little to properly position it in the cowl. If you have any suggestions or build tips that aren't in your build posts please, please, please let me know. Wish me luck.

Welcome jawsmon, I have tried to cover most critical aspects of this buildin this thread which I'm sure will help you out. I would be happy to copy the instruction book for you if you pm me your address. Sounds like most of the difficult stuff,ie. the wing has been done. Reinforcement of the landing gear is a good idea. Oneidea/suggestion that I have for you is this: my guess is the original builder has used the supplied Balsa for the front and rear spars, since it's too late to change them out you could get some benefit from installing shear webbing on the entire wing, this should work well for you. Make sure the grain of the shear webbing is running vertically and not side to side. If you need assistance all you need to do is ask. Good luck and enjoy your build....

You know maybe we should start a Ryan brotherhood thread. It seems these kits are popping up all over, maybe Sig could be persuaded to reissue this one

+1

I vote Vincent head that up.
Candidates                                Votes
Vincent                                           1 </p>

Oh thanks my friend... LOL I vote the person that thought of the idea should head it up....

OK, went to the LHS and purchased the supplies I need to continue. But before I put the resin on I put it on a scrap piece to see if it will cure. If it shows signs of hardening I will put it on the cowl area this evening. I took a photo of the back of the resin container and if you look at the lower right hand side you will see the expiration date. I hope thismay save some of you thegrief that this couldcauseif we trust our LHS and stores to carry products that are not fresh.

You can also see the bracket for the flying wiresadditionallyin the center of the fuse you will see where I installed a fuel dot that closely resembles a fuel cap. It is in the proper scale location and it took me quite some time to find a fuel dot that was correct in size.

So that can expired 7 months ago?

Maybe Robert, remember 6 months or two years. That's the freshest can they had, which is why I'm testing it.

Ok! I'm a retard, read the date not the instructions.