Goldberg Extra 300
#428
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From: Woodford,
VA
Whoa is me!!![&o]
I just crashed and totaled my CG Extra yesterday.....
It was the best flying/handling airframe that I have ever laid my hands on in 20+ yrs of modeling....
Anybody know where I can find a kit or templates to build from my plans??
I just crashed and totaled my CG Extra yesterday.....
It was the best flying/handling airframe that I have ever laid my hands on in 20+ yrs of modeling....

Anybody know where I can find a kit or templates to build from my plans??
#429
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tod0001-
Whoa is me!!!
I just crashed and totaled my CG Extra yesterday.....
It was the best flying/handling airframe that I have ever laid my hands on in 20+ yrs of modeling....
Anybody know where I can find a kit or templates to build from my plans??
Whoa is me!!!
I just crashed and totaled my CG Extra yesterday.....
It was the best flying/handling airframe that I have ever laid my hands on in 20+ yrs of modeling....
Anybody know where I can find a kit or templates to build from my plans??
Have you checked out my petition to have Hobbico re-issue this airplane? We're trying to get it back. It may take a bit of time, but will be worth it.
[link]http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_8994041/tm.htm[/link]
#431
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tod0001,
Thank you. I saw you on page 2 of the petition. I'd offer you a set of templates, but it would be a while. I'm only drawing two sets right now. In order for me to draw more, I'll have to wait to cut my current templates and draw another set. This would be months. The set I'm already drawing are spoken for, and he is patiently waiting as it is. I'm drawing them as I build.
Well, I am pleased with my efforts so far. I mounted the center servo mounting plate on the rear of the wing even though I am going with two servos. I figure a little more bracing won't hurt anything.
Itching to get to the fuse... Should be only another week or two.
Thank you. I saw you on page 2 of the petition. I'd offer you a set of templates, but it would be a while. I'm only drawing two sets right now. In order for me to draw more, I'll have to wait to cut my current templates and draw another set. This would be months. The set I'm already drawing are spoken for, and he is patiently waiting as it is. I'm drawing them as I build.
Well, I am pleased with my efforts so far. I mounted the center servo mounting plate on the rear of the wing even though I am going with two servos. I figure a little more bracing won't hurt anything.
Itching to get to the fuse... Should be only another week or two.
#432
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From: Woodford,
VA
"I'd offer you a set of templates, but it would be a while."
That might be my only option( along with alot of others)...
Please keep me in mind, also, I'll post here if I can find a replacement.
That might be my only option( along with alot of others)...
Please keep me in mind, also, I'll post here if I can find a replacement.
#433

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From: Strongsville,
OH
Look in the RC Universe Market. Search for Goldberg extra unsold. Cobra AH1 has a NIB extra that comes with fiberglass cowl and pants for about $200. If you contact him he may still have it and sell it. If you were to buy after market fiberglass parts, you'd have to shell out about 70 bucks, so the price isn't that bad.
#435
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From: Chicago,
IL
Tod,
It might have sold by now...keep your eyes open, you'll find one. I've seen a few on Ebay over the last 3 months. I actually just bought one.
When using ebay, search "Carl Goldberg" as well as "Goldberg Kit" to maximize the results....you'll find one.
It might have sold by now...keep your eyes open, you'll find one. I've seen a few on Ebay over the last 3 months. I actually just bought one.
When using ebay, search "Carl Goldberg" as well as "Goldberg Kit" to maximize the results....you'll find one.
#436
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From: Chicago,
IL
I think I remember hearing that 5 or 15 minute epoxy is a lot more brittle than a 30 minute or 1 hour epoxy.
I always use 30 minute for joining wings. I even had some 3 hour epoxy I used a couple of times...in theory it should allow more flexibility.
I always use 30 minute for joining wings. I even had some 3 hour epoxy I used a couple of times...in theory it should allow more flexibility.
#437
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I learned something today about using the iron and wood glue method.
If you wet the top of the sheeting to form it to the contour of of the wing, wait until it dries before you add the wood glue to the bottom of the wing. I was finishing my last bit of sheeting with the iron today. I thought that the balsa sheeting seemed just a bit too plyable for my liking, but thought applying the iron would dry it right out.
That it did- and warped the H#@*L out of it! [sm=48_48.gif][sm=confused_smile.gif][sm=cry_smile.gif][sm=cry_smile.gif]
I'll have to start fresh with a new sheet of wood. I'm not going to have that "perfect" look to the wood structure anymore. But, no one will notice when it is covered.
I was hoping to move on this weekend, but I need to address this properly. At least the glue on the wing is not waisted. It can still be activated with the iron when I put the new sheet on.
Brian
If you wet the top of the sheeting to form it to the contour of of the wing, wait until it dries before you add the wood glue to the bottom of the wing. I was finishing my last bit of sheeting with the iron today. I thought that the balsa sheeting seemed just a bit too plyable for my liking, but thought applying the iron would dry it right out.
That it did- and warped the H#@*L out of it! [sm=48_48.gif][sm=confused_smile.gif][sm=cry_smile.gif][sm=cry_smile.gif]
I'll have to start fresh with a new sheet of wood. I'm not going to have that "perfect" look to the wood structure anymore. But, no one will notice when it is covered.
I was hoping to move on this weekend, but I need to address this properly. At least the glue on the wing is not waisted. It can still be activated with the iron when I put the new sheet on.
Brian
#438

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Brian, how much heat are you using on the iron when you are gluing down the sheeting?? I have never bothered with the glue and iron because of the areas I have lived. I just use thick and medium CA. Today it was over 110 degrees and my planes set out in the sun for hours, they get very hot, one of the reasons I only use the Tex or Ultracote coverings, they hold up very well without sags and bubbles. I have always wondered if the sheeting would lift in our heat and come loose. I would like to try it though.
Gene
Gene
#439
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From: No City,
ORIGINAL: tod0001
Whoa is me!!![&o]
I just crashed and totaled my CG Extra yesterday.....
It was the best flying/handling airframe that I have ever laid my hands on in 20+ yrs of modeling....
Anybody know where I can find a kit or templates to build from my plans??
Whoa is me!!![&o]
I just crashed and totaled my CG Extra yesterday.....
It was the best flying/handling airframe that I have ever laid my hands on in 20+ yrs of modeling....

Anybody know where I can find a kit or templates to build from my plans??
True about the CG Extra, it flies on rails. I was flying my Seagull Edge 46 this afternoon and watching it on a straight and level flyby is not an esthetically pleasing experience. As a matter of fact, it's the opposite. Twitchy hands off.
The point of this message is on the third flight I hot dogged with wings vertical, cranking it so hard on the turn to final that it dropped out of the sky. Only the wings of the airframe survived. No tears, no worries. Ordered a fuse and tail feathers when I got home.
On the way home from the field my son said something like, "You'd be inconsolable if you crashed your Extra." The fact is, he's right. Then I'd build another one.
Brian - isn't that about the prettiest wing you've ever seen? True about the covering, but I'm sure it'll look great without the covering with some sanding.
#440
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Gray Beard-
Brian, how much heat are you using on the iron when you are gluing down the sheeting??
Brian, how much heat are you using on the iron when you are gluing down the sheeting??
330 degrees works fine.
I don't know the 110+ degree heat will effect the glue adversly. I suppose if exposed to the direct sun in the heat it may.
It takes a lot of heat to activate the glue. The key is to let it dry enough so it is tacky- not wet. When the two surfaces meet it acts just like contact cement. Then hit the joints with the iron. Works great!
WestCoastFlyer-
Brian - isn't that about the prettiest wing you've ever seen?
Brian - isn't that about the prettiest wing you've ever seen?
Brian
#441

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From: Strongsville,
OH
Tod
http://www.rcuniverse.com/market/item.cfm?itemId=542503
The address above is the expired add for a Goldberg Extra. He never sold it on the RC Universe market. Contact him to see if he still has it for sale. I traded emails with him until I found the kit at a nearby hobby shop and bought it there instead. Very nice man who owns this NIB Extra.
#442

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From: Strongsville,
OH
Lost my midstar in a mid air crash. That was my trainer and first plane. My plan was to fly this one until I was ready for my Goldberg extra next flying season. Not sure I'm ready for it yet, but I'll give it a try. We shall see. Looks like I'll have a lot of time on my hands to get this bird ready. Aiming for mid September. What color should I paint the top of the center console in the cockpit? Blue, Black, Silver, leave it white, or any other color?
#444

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From: herts, UNITED KINGDOM
Hi again every one. where are the build pics. must have progressed by now.
All I can report is the wind has been up allot here and I have got through 3 UC legs now and have finally got an alloy one now. Plane still my best one and learning it every time out.
All I can report is the wind has been up allot here and I have got through 3 UC legs now and have finally got an alloy one now. Plane still my best one and learning it every time out.
#445
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I built a warp into my wing. I was contemplating starting it over, but I am being convinced to try and repair the wing I have at the moment by several other members at RCU. So, the progress has stalled as I regroup to start the surgical procedure (and make some more progress on the remodel of my girls' bedroom).
Brian
Brian
#447

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From: Strongsville,
OH
Brian,
Sorry to hear about the warp. A couple of questions, cause I want to check mine. How do you measure a warp? Do you use a tool for that? And how far out of perfect does it have to be before it becomes a concern? I finished my wing - covered and all, but never checked it for warp. I'll post pictures as soon as my home computer is fixed. It died a week ago. Thanks!
Sorry to hear about the warp. A couple of questions, cause I want to check mine. How do you measure a warp? Do you use a tool for that? And how far out of perfect does it have to be before it becomes a concern? I finished my wing - covered and all, but never checked it for warp. I'll post pictures as soon as my home computer is fixed. It died a week ago. Thanks!
#448
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bigal126
Brian,
Sorry to hear about the warp. A couple of questions, cause I want to check mine. How do you measure a warp? Do you use a tool for that? And how far out of perfect does it have to be before it becomes a concern?
Brian,
Sorry to hear about the warp. A couple of questions, cause I want to check mine. How do you measure a warp? Do you use a tool for that? And how far out of perfect does it have to be before it becomes a concern?
I use a very long level and run it down the TE of the wing. Also, look down the top/bottom of the wing from wing center to wing tip. Sight down the wing like you are aiming a gun. You can see warps or twists that way as well.
There will always be some minor imperfections or inconsistancies. It will be pretty obvious if it is not right.
I'm being a lot more picky with my wing because I want to compete in entry level (Sportsman) pattern with it, plus this airplane deserves the extra attention. For me, it NEEDS to fly straight at neutral for best performance. Other people don't concern themselves so much with it because it can be trimmed out (most times) to fly straight and level. Although, if you have to adjust in one area, it will most certainly affect another area.
Sometimes you can pull a twist out of a wing by shrinking the covering material in a way it will work in your favor.
I hope that helps.
Brian
#449
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From: No City,
Brian,
That's a total bummer about the warp. Impossible to say what exactly caused it, but there's a slight chance using wood glue was a factor. CA is instant and in terms of holding things straight it's more reliable - just because of the drying time of wood glue necessitates clamping/pinning/etc. longer.
I'll propose something radical. I've never tried this, I'm just brain storming. How about wetting it with water, twist it the opposite direction of the warp and have your wife blow dry it with a hair dryer. And if it takes out the warp, hit the joints with thin CA.
Just an idea.
That's a total bummer about the warp. Impossible to say what exactly caused it, but there's a slight chance using wood glue was a factor. CA is instant and in terms of holding things straight it's more reliable - just because of the drying time of wood glue necessitates clamping/pinning/etc. longer.
I'll propose something radical. I've never tried this, I'm just brain storming. How about wetting it with water, twist it the opposite direction of the warp and have your wife blow dry it with a hair dryer. And if it takes out the warp, hit the joints with thin CA.
Just an idea.
#450

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From: Strongsville,
OH
Does anyone know what tool can you use to accurately measure to see how much warp you have and what is that tool? I'd like some type of objective measurement rather than just eyeballing.



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