Goldberg Extra 300
10-28-2009 | 03:39 PM
#654
RE: Goldberg Extra 300
hi i did go to the web site to request that the EXTRA kit make a come back-some kits should never go away-that are real good flyersgood work being done here for the hobby
10-28-2009 | 03:43 PM
#655
RE: Goldberg Extra 300
hi 15-18 years ago i saw this EXTRA do some of the first torque rolls i ever saw in the hands of one great pilothe had an ASP 1.08 in the plane at that time-the 1.08 was about as big an engine you could get back thenboy times and the hobby have come a long way in a short time
10-28-2009 | 03:48 PM
#656
RE: Goldberg Extra 300
hi been building for 26 years - RC for 20-the info exchange on this web site is about as good as it gets ENJOY REGARDS TONY "the omega man " think pink !!!
10-29-2009 | 09:15 AM
#658
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From: Blackfoot ,
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RE: Goldberg Extra 300
Guys here is a little trick I use for covering that you may or may not want to try, after the basic color is done and shurnk drum tight. I cut out my designs to whatever shape I want for that particular build, but instead of breaking out the iron I grab my bottle of window cleaner and give it a spray then add my trim, Just a lite mist is enough. Then use a soft absorbent cloth and wipe it getting all the air and most of the cleaner out from under it. On compound curves I just keep working it down and say for something like a wing front edge I use my small trim iron on low heat to seal the front edge, don't add any heat to any place other than the very front edge or it can bubble up and make a real mess. With a little practice you can get a bubble free trim scheme, that looks like it was painted. I was skeptable when I was told about this myself, but it does work and work very well, but only if you use monokote covering material, ultra coat I know will not work as far as the others I don't know. The amonia in the cleaner activates the glue and after it dries overnight its there to stay actually I think it seals stronger than useing a iron. Caution don't be tempted to use any form of heat while the glass cleaner is still wet, I learned the hard way it makes a real mess. After things has dried good I then go around the edges on low heat and seal them down, this takes away any rough edges that can be felt when running your hand over the covering.
10-29-2009 | 10:07 AM
#660
RE: Goldberg Extra 300
HI can anyone here put together a wood and hardware list for anyone who is into scratch building the EXTRA 300 from the plans wondering what the costs might be to do it that way-as apposed to buying the kit
anyone out there into cutting kits for this planelets say just the wood ? might be a nice side business for someone guys at my old flying field use to do stuff like that
anyone out there into cutting kits for this planelets say just the wood ? might be a nice side business for someone guys at my old flying field use to do stuff like that
10-29-2009 | 01:45 PM
#662
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From: CAMBRIDGE, UNITED KINGDOM
RE: Goldberg Extra 300
ORIGINAL: Cyberwolf
Guys here is a little trick I use for covering that you may or may not want to try, after the basic color is done and shurnk drum tight. I cut out my designs to whatever shape I want for that particular build, but instead of breaking out the iron I grab my bottle of window cleaner and give it a spray then add my trim, Just a lite mist is enough. Then use a soft absorbent cloth and wipe it getting all the air and most of the cleaner out from under it. On compound curves I just keep working it down and say for something like a wing front edge I use my small trim iron on low heat to seal the front edge, don't add any heat to any place other than the very front edge or it can bubble up and make a real mess. With a little practice you can get a bubble free trim scheme, that looks like it was painted. I was skeptable when I was told about this myself, but it does work and work very well, but only if you use monokote covering material, ultra coat I know will not work as far as the others I don't know. The amonia in the cleaner activates the glue and after it dries overnight its there to stay actually I think it seals stronger than useing a iron. Caution don't be tempted to use any form of heat while the glass cleaner is still wet, I learned the hard way it makes a real mess. After things has dried good I then go around the edges on low heat and seal them down, this takes away any rough edges that can be felt when running your hand over the covering.
Guys here is a little trick I use for covering that you may or may not want to try, after the basic color is done and shurnk drum tight. I cut out my designs to whatever shape I want for that particular build, but instead of breaking out the iron I grab my bottle of window cleaner and give it a spray then add my trim, Just a lite mist is enough. Then use a soft absorbent cloth and wipe it getting all the air and most of the cleaner out from under it. On compound curves I just keep working it down and say for something like a wing front edge I use my small trim iron on low heat to seal the front edge, don't add any heat to any place other than the very front edge or it can bubble up and make a real mess. With a little practice you can get a bubble free trim scheme, that looks like it was painted. I was skeptable when I was told about this myself, but it does work and work very well, but only if you use monokote covering material, ultra coat I know will not work as far as the others I don't know. The amonia in the cleaner activates the glue and after it dries overnight its there to stay actually I think it seals stronger than useing a iron. Caution don't be tempted to use any form of heat while the glass cleaner is still wet, I learned the hard way it makes a real mess. After things has dried good I then go around the edges on low heat and seal them down, this takes away any rough edges that can be felt when running your hand over the covering.
Thank you Cyberwolf - I am just applying my base coat colour on some parts so this bit of advice comes just at the right time.
One questions however, could you explain the difference between monokote and ultracoat?
Regards
C
10-29-2009 | 02:39 PM
#663
Senior Member
My Feedback: (1)
RE: Goldberg Extra 300
Ultracoat (oracover) has an adhesive that activates at a much lower temp than Monokote. It is easier and more consistant to work with than Monkote. The film stretches at a lower temp. All around it is easier to work with.
But.....
If you use lighter colors, Ultracoat has a transluscent quality about it. You can see the wood grain through the color pigment.
I also think (This is only my OPINION) that the colors just aren't as full as Monokote.
There have been some changes our EPA has enforced to the adhesives on Monokote that have caused a little consternation. The quality of the product has been inconsistant. It is frustrating, but I have maintained the patients because I like the full color and brightness better than Ultracoat.
Brian
But.....
If you use lighter colors, Ultracoat has a transluscent quality about it. You can see the wood grain through the color pigment.
I also think (This is only my OPINION) that the colors just aren't as full as Monokote.
There have been some changes our EPA has enforced to the adhesives on Monokote that have caused a little consternation. The quality of the product has been inconsistant. It is frustrating, but I have maintained the patients because I like the full color and brightness better than Ultracoat.
Brian
10-29-2009 | 06:07 PM
#666
My Feedback: (-1)
RE: Goldberg Extra 300
I only cover with the Ultra but I do use the Mono for trim sometimes. I juice up my window cleaner with more ammonia for that added kick. After the trim has set for a day or two I use my trin iron set on high and run it over the edges of the trim, about 1.4 inch. I like using this method because you can slide the trim around and get it right where you want it. Thanks for bringing that tip up CW. I was back tracking on this thread and looking at some very nice planes. Tony, when Brian finishes his build and I get a copy of the templates I will be making up some copies and if anyone needs them I will be happy to send out a few sets. The plans and instructions tell you what each part is made out of, you will have to do your own figuring though. I buy my wood in bulk from Lone Star Balsa ans I can cut {my own} kits and build several of these planes for next to nothing. The money starts to mount up when you need to order cowls, canopy, LG and hardware. Back track on this thread and you will see how much money you will spend on stuff other then wood. Wood is the cheap part.
10-30-2009 | 05:37 AM
#668
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From: Blackfoot ,
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RE: Goldberg Extra 300
I scratched a ultra sport 60 here a few years back, just before they released the kits again as you would know, anyway by the time I got the plans, canopy and wood I may have saved 35-40 bucks over a kit at that time. Not much of a savings considering I had to cut everything out myself.
Now its about 80 with the price raise. So it may be worth it for certain planes, the Extra is one I always figure on changeing out the ABS and landing gear before I even start it. So that extra cost is just part of the deal.
I almost always use Monokote also, UC is ok for some uses it may be a little easier to get around a bend, if it will stay there when your done is another question *L*
Like maybe a fully sheeted wing and fuse where one would want to iron the covering on the whole thing the UC may be a better choice for some.
I myself have not touched a large iron in over 20 yrs, just my trusty modified trim seal iron and a blow gun is all I use now days.
My main complant with UC is the heat and the way it wrinkles up on a hot day. When I get a plane finished with Mono if the weather is warm I set it out in the sun for a few hours and let it do its thing then reshrink it, after that I seldom have wrinkle problems. Can't say the same for ultracoat.
Back whern Goldberg owned oracover, it was made differently I have seen planes that was covered in it years ago and are still drum tight ,Technology I guess*L*
Now its about 80 with the price raise. So it may be worth it for certain planes, the Extra is one I always figure on changeing out the ABS and landing gear before I even start it. So that extra cost is just part of the deal.
I almost always use Monokote also, UC is ok for some uses it may be a little easier to get around a bend, if it will stay there when your done is another question *L*
Like maybe a fully sheeted wing and fuse where one would want to iron the covering on the whole thing the UC may be a better choice for some.
I myself have not touched a large iron in over 20 yrs, just my trusty modified trim seal iron and a blow gun is all I use now days.
My main complant with UC is the heat and the way it wrinkles up on a hot day. When I get a plane finished with Mono if the weather is warm I set it out in the sun for a few hours and let it do its thing then reshrink it, after that I seldom have wrinkle problems. Can't say the same for ultracoat.
Back whern Goldberg owned oracover, it was made differently I have seen planes that was covered in it years ago and are still drum tight ,Technology I guess*L*
10-31-2009 | 05:41 PM
#669
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From: Strongsville,
OH
RE: Goldberg Extra 300
Anybody know the best way to fix a pin hole in the wing (ultracoat). My fuel line was rubbing on the firewall and it looks like it cut a hole in it and when the plane went dead stick, it was way out over the soybean field. Couldn't get it back to the runway so it landed gently in the beans so no structural damage, but the beans plants are dry and hard and it poked a couple pin holes. My baby got its first battle scars. 
Oh well, could have been worse!
Oh well, could have been worse!
10-31-2009 | 06:37 PM
#670
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From: CAMBRIDGE, UNITED KINGDOM
RE: Goldberg Extra 300
ORIGINAL: bigal126
Anybody know the best way to fix a pin hole in the wing (ultracoat). My fuel line was rubbing on the firewall and it looks like it cut a hole in it and when the plane went dead stick, it was way out over the soybean field. Couldn't get it back to the runway so it landed gently in the beans so no structural damage, but the beans plants are dry and hard and it poked a couple pin holes. My baby got its first battle scars. Oh well, could have been worse!
Anybody know the best way to fix a pin hole in the wing (ultracoat). My fuel line was rubbing on the firewall and it looks like it cut a hole in it and when the plane went dead stick, it was way out over the soybean field. Couldn't get it back to the runway so it landed gently in the beans so no structural damage, but the beans plants are dry and hard and it poked a couple pin holes. My baby got its first battle scars.
Oh well, could have been worse!
Hey Bigal
Im not sure if this is the best way but it is certainly a method that Ihave seen used quite a bit and its a method that I use.If its just a small hole then just cut a round piece of ultrakote and stick it on as if it was a bandaid (I think that what you guys call them).
Just make it big enough to cover her hole and that way you keep the weight down.
Hope this helps and sorry to hear about the stall.....good flying though, could have been a lot worse!!
Regards
C
10-31-2009 | 06:48 PM
#671
My Feedback: (-1)
RE: Goldberg Extra 300
With Ultra you just need to cut a patch a bit over sized then put it on with an iron, add a little heat and it will shrink the patch and area around it without any wrinkles. My poor old Extra is really showing signs of age but it fly's so well I don't want to ground it for a recover job.
10-31-2009 | 11:04 PM
#672
Senior Member
My Feedback: (1)
RE: Goldberg Extra 300
Finally, I have more work done on my Extra. Remember, my build will be very slow because of time restraints.... Re-modeling my upstairs, work, etc....
No pics yet, but I have the rear half of the fuse assembled now.
I want to say thanks to Carlos for keeping me going.
I am still drawing the templates.
Brian
No pics yet, but I have the rear half of the fuse assembled now.
I want to say thanks to Carlos for keeping me going.
I am still drawing the templates.
Brian
10-31-2009 | 11:14 PM
#673
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From: CAMBRIDGE, UNITED KINGDOM
RE: Goldberg Extra 300
ORIGINAL: Ilikebipes
Finally, I have more work done on my Extra. Remember, my build will be very slow because of time restraints.... Re-modeling my upstairs, work, etc....
No pics yet, but I have the rear half of the fuse assembled now.
I want to say thanks to Carlos for keeping me going.
I am still drawing the templates.
Brian
Finally, I have more work done on my Extra. Remember, my build will be very slow because of time restraints.... Re-modeling my upstairs, work, etc....
No pics yet, but I have the rear half of the fuse assembled now.
I want to say thanks to Carlos for keeping me going.
I am still drawing the templates.
Brian
Hey Brian
Thats great news!!and there isno need to thank me. You have helped me out plenty of times.
Really looking forward to seeing your pics!!
One thing I would mention though is make sure that the area where the horizontal stab goes is flat. I am having issues with it now and I wish I had paid more attention to it before.
Regards
C
11-01-2009 | 04:00 AM
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From: Blackfoot ,
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RE: Goldberg Extra 300
Here is something that I do at times when I get a small hole I don't want it to show by useing a patch. I make a stripe or band of another color to go over it from leading edge to trailing edge. Can't tell if wasn't ment to be there from the get go and hides the hole completly. Of corse I add one to the other side as well to even it up.
