ACAMEX All I can say is good work, pics please *S* Once you get er up and flying all the hard work and time spent will be well worth it believe me . If you have never flew a plane such as the extra 300, just remember this when you add input it takes it and stays in that attitude untill told other wise.
On low throws its a real ***** cat, and very easy to land at slow speeds, On high throws that Extra will turn on a dime and give ya change lots of it. I have never had this happen to me, but have seen it, don't slow the plane down to much in the final leg of your turn for landing. After all it is a Extra and can drop a wing. It would be a crying shame to loose it over something like that.
Won't be long now WOO HOO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

As long as you build it straight you really need nothing in the way of mods. But what a drab world that would be! Two nice servos for the elevator is a big help. Adding some 1/16 ply for a doubler from just in front of the wing to the fire wall will help if you are going to use a big four stroke and fly the plane for a lot of years. I have run the OS 1.20 in one, the YS 1.40 in another and the YS 1.20 in the one I'm flying now. All very good choices, the 1.40 was the best so far. The YS 1.20 is outstanding and the OS 1.20 worked pretty well. Next one is getting the RC Showcase 1.40 gasser up front. It's a small engine but it flew my 1/4 scale Extra 300 just fine so should be great in this smaller plane. Just not a lot of mods needed in this plane.

The magnum 1.20 is a close knock off of the os 1.20. Grey Beard, I am curios, did your gb extra have unlimited vertical with a os 1.20? and what percent nitro were you using at that time with the extra/OS 1.20?

That's one of those loose terms, unlimited. The answer would be no to both the YS and OS 1.20 engines. Neither one would have been good for something like 3-D but both will pull the plane at about a 60 or 70 degree angle very well for a high climb to do something like a flat spin, maybe even more. They will pull the plane over for as big of a loop as you can do from level. The YS 1.40 was another story though, it would pull the plane at a straight vertical as long as you wanted. I can get my plane with my YS 1.20 to hover but it won't pull it out. The OS wasn't a bad choice but there is a bit of power difference between the OS and YS. I have gotten it to hover with the OS too, just not as long but I can't fly 3-D so it could just be me. If I ever rebuild my YS 1.20 I'm sure there will be a lot more there? Pretty sure anyway!

<div>Hey Cyber

.......just reading this got me all excited :-) Icant wait to see it flying. Im a little concerned about the control surfaces coming off, as I used some glue that ive not used before. So the maiden flight is definitely going to a very gentle one. The glue is designed just for hinges, but im still a little nervous about it.

One question Ido have though is this, Ihave seen some pics that have the cables installed to support the tail plane, are these necessary? As I have also seen some other pics without them on.

I don't see any reference to them in the instructions, so im just a little curious to know if they are needed.

Regards

C</div>

My first question is what type of hinges did you use and what kind of glue are we talking here?????.
As far as flying wires go, I did not use them on this particular model, but I may should have with the big 4 stroker in the nose, they do shake some at idle and could create a problem, Flying wires help stop and flutter you may get from high speeds, larger 4 stroke engines and abrupt manuevers which put extra strain on the horizonal stab. I have lost a couple of planes in the day due to not having the wires in place.
as far as I know the plane doesn't need them for all practical purposes with a Smaller end engine 90-91 2 stroke.
allot of the time if I need some tail weight I will add the flying wires to help with the balance instead of just glueing in some lead inside the fuse, Looks allot better plus has a function to boot.


(Off subject) Now if you ever build a GB Sukhoi I strongly recommend the flying wires on that plane.
Course maybe the 160 FX I have in it may have something to do with why *LOL*

Thanks Cyber

Yes, i'm only using a 90 2 stroke and i'm not really planning on performing any sudden acrobatics, Ilearnt that lesson with my Funtana which amazing snapped its right wing in a sudden pull up.

As for the hinges, well good question, i'm not sure what you guys may call them, but they are known here are furry hinges. They are just thin slices of what seem furry plastic.....Iknow Isound crazy but its the only way Ican describe them
The glue that Iused almost looks like wood glue, cant remember off the top of my head who makes it but I do know that its an American make.

Regards

C

It sounds like you used whats known as a standard CA glue hinge and thin CA glue should be used it install them, anything else won't soak in and penetrate and have a good bond. Also other types of glues can make a CA hinge stiff and break just when you don't want it to.

I think if I was you I would do some pull tests on the moving surfaces to see if anything pulls out on the ground before you try to fly.
When I say a pull test I mean pull on things good, not just a light 2 fingered pull and think all is well. From what you have described here I would be very leary of the hinges
holding.

Sounds like what we call CA hinges that were developed to use thin CA glue to hold them in place. Actually that is what comes in the kit, at least that what was in my kit. I opt not to use the kit supplied hinges but used a different brand of CA hinge that i have had great success with. If you used wood glue such as Titebond to glue them in, i would be a bit worried too. I would suggest you do a test on a couple of pieces of scrap wood, glue in a hinge, let it dry and check how well it holds when you try to pull them apart.

All my GB extras come with a kleet hinge, a plastic sort of a robart with a diamond shape in the middle, they like to pull out also. Don't ask ok *L*

Sounds like C used CA hinges and used Pacer Hinge Glue. I have never tried Pacer on CA hinges but I will go out and set one up and give it a try today to see how well it holds. I can post photos tonight after it has some dry time.

C,
Read and watch this.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/magazine/a...rticle_id=1180

Al

I went out and set up a piece of balsa just like I would do if I was going to use CA hinges, shot in a load of Pacer Hinge Glue then stuffed the hinge into the slot, that was a lot tougher then it sounds, Pacer is pretty thick. I let it set up for three and a half hours, nothing better to do, it's raining out today. After the 3.5 hours I gave the hinge a good tug, it didn't budge so I stuck the hinge in the vise and save the wood a pull, it came out this time. The glue was still tacky but where it was set up there is wood that clung to the hinge, Pacer is some very good glue and if it was squished in to the slot first then the hinges pushed in then it will hold very well. If the glue was just flowed onto the hinge there is no way for it to flow into the hinge slot and work like CA.
Gene

Thanks Gene and Brian, if nothing else those two post are prolly some of the most valuable in this whole thread, I can't add to what Minn has said about installation he covered it very well.
Some of you may agree with me on this or not, but I always use a good quality CA hinge such as Greats planes makes.

Yes, I second that. Thank you Al and Gene and thank you for the pics!

Regards

C

If you look in my #1 photo where I cut the slot you can see a center hole I drilled, this is a must do thing when installing CA hinges if you want the CA to wick all the way through a CA hinge. I'm not sure but I think Mike or Ken showed this in a thread about using CA hinges. I don't use them on my planes but I have installed them a lot in planes I have built for others and never had a problem with them. There is no reason why I don't use them, they are fine if installed correctly, I try to use hinge pins if I can on my planes, just because they are easy. I end up using more of the Dubro flat hinges though depending on the edges of the wood, TE or LE. It's just one of those choice things, I often mix them too, use pins and flat. The little plane I'm building right now I'm not sure what I will be using?? The wood for the elevator and rudder is only 3/16 or 1/8 thick. I'm thinking of adding some wood and using the pins for the small electric planes. This is an old 1/2A kit and my first stab at electric power. As small as it is I'm still cutting a lot of lightening holes in it. Not needed but just beacuse!![8D]

Hey Guys

Thought Iwould put my tools down for a bit and take some pics of where im at.. Apologies for the bad light but its getting dark here in the UK very early to the cam wouldnt focus that well.

Ihave a few bits that Ineed to finish off ...like the pattern on the wing etc, but im hoping to maiden her this weekend!.........without her cowl that is.

Regards

C

Looks good, I would even be able to see the checkers on the bottom!!!

[sm=thumbup.gif][sm=thumbup.gif][sm=thumbup.gif]

Excellent. Let us know the details of the maiden.

Very nice and colorful! Us older guys have to be on the look out for color and this one would be easy to see! Good luck on the maiden. Right is right, left is left, up is up, etc. You wouldn't think you would have to repeat this but an experienced flyer at our field had not only his ailerons reversed but the elevator too on a P-51 maiden a few weeks ago! Not a pretty site!

Thanks Guys

Yes, I purposely made it visible because the skies here in the UK in winter as you can all imagine are pretty grey all the time, so the colors really help to see it.

I will be checking that up is up and what not about 50 times before I go anyway, otherwise Ill be crying like a little baby if it hits the ground!

Im hoping the wife is going to come along and record it and if she does ill post it up so you can see.

Regards

C

I just came across this thread and was pleased to see one of my all time favourite models being discussed, the CG Extra 300 which to my mind is just about the nicest flying model in that size ever. My Extra which was built in 1995 and which is still going strong has indergone several engine changes, starting with a ST61, then a ST75, then ST90 and is currently powered by a Ralph Cunningham converted to elec. ign. and lightened G23.

Modifications over the years to the model's original build include upgrading to one servo per aileron and replacing the wire l/gear with an aluminium l/gear with a 3/8" hardwood wedge tilting the gear and wheels forward approx. 1.3" which completely cured it's habit of nosing over on grass, and of course the addition of a fiberglass cowl and wheel pants. With an AUW of exactly 10 lbs it is a dream to fly and a real *****cat to land and with the G23 up front turning a Xoar 16x8 prop at 8,400 rpm it has a very lively performance which gives unlimited verticals.

Karol

That's good to know, my next one is going to be built around the RC Showcase 1.40 gasser, quite a bit lighter then the G-23 but a bit more power then the 23s I have had, never bothered to lighten one though. I'm told that really helps and the electronic ignition helps with both starting and smooths out the idle. I will have to build the fire wall around the engine because of that dang rear induction carb!! The throttle linkage is a pain in the hind end and the fire wall is always in the way of the carb needles.

My Extra handled the extra weight of it's gas engine quite well as it retained ALL of it's impeccable flying manners, while it's flight performance showed a marked improvement with the additional umph up front. Although Ralph's ignition and diet treatment lost the G23 a full lb. of weight your engine choice should be a lighter and more powerful one which should prove to be an ideal power source for this outstanding and well mannered flying model.

Karol