When building a kit, and pinning things down to your work surface, do you guys pin directly through the plane part that you are working on?? Or around it?

Thank you,

torque_roll

I use thin t-pins and pin right through the part. Have been doing it this way close to 48 years and no problems yet.

I'm going to risk disagreeing with a "pro" on this one--but only somewhat. IF the model is a very lightweight stick-and-tissue type thing, you could weaken the structure of small pieces by sticking the pin through the parts. In this case, simply crisscross two pins over the top of the part to hold it down. Tape, weights, and lightweight clamps (or clothespins) will also come in handy for holding things that need to be held together or down to the building board. Having said this, I have been sticking pins through larger pieces for 50 years, too. You can get different grades of pins in the fabrics section of Wallyworld. While you are there, check out the cutting surfaces and some of the nifty tools you may be able to use in your shop. Good luck, Dzl

Rocket City makes (made?) these great pin clamps. Here's a link:
http://www.hobbylinc.com/gr/roc/roc55.htm
It's basically a little black disc you put on the end of your pin that uses the pressure to clamp the piece in place. I've been using them for years, and they save so much hassle. They're no longer on tower's website, but you can probably get them from your LHS!

Use 'em, they're great!
Reid

No problem with the disagreeing here as I agree with you 100%. When I made my statement I was only thinking of the larger type planes that we build now, not the small stick and tissue ones. I do remember doing it though and how it would sometimes crack the part. Now about this 'Pro' thing, naw I don't think so but thanks for the compliment. I'm just another modeler like you or anyone else enjoying a pass time that I got started in at a young age.

Art, you are "da Pro" man. Take that compliment and run with it. .

Although I do have to say I don't pin through unless absolutely necessary. I use T-pins, and basically you can "trap" your piece nicely with the T of the pin, and usually get it very snug. I have had pieces crack at the site of the pin hole...as I pinned through for a long time. It occured to me one day that I didn't need to go through, rather directly beside the part, angling the pin to snug it up. And............don't forget about clamps....they are an absolute necessity to have on hand. Several different varieties on the market now, and very good ones can be had at your local hardware store.

If your fortunate that you can use today's CA glues, pins are only rarely used, at least in my shop. If you have a situation that you aren't able to use CA(allergy is #1), then alaphatic resin(Elmers Carpenters glue) and pins work just fine. This is only my take here, as there are alot of techniques that work well, as Art has something that works well for him...you can't argue with that much experience...and hey...I wouldn't argue with you anyway Art...your too cool man. Thanks.

Well......yesterday, right after I asked the question, I looked to see if anyone had responded. I saw what Art had said, and I went ahead and pinned through the main spar (balsa and skkkkiiiinnnnnyy). This seemed to work pretty well. But, if everyone now agrees that pinning around the part is probably a better idea, then I will definitely try this way too.

Thank you to all the "pro" builders that answered to this.

I appreciate the help.

Patrick

I pin through some parts and criss cross others,its a builders judgement, when I pin I use a couple different size T pins,if i need some extra hold down pressure,I stick the pin through a button,ta da,now have a large headed pin.

One thing I didn't put in so as an after thought here it is. When I do pin through a part after I pull the pin out I always put a drop of thin CA on where the pin went through, just being cautious, but have been pinning since I was a kid. Yes it is a judgement call as to whether to do this and very small or skinny parts it is sometimes better to cross over them to hold them down. You will over time learn which ones can be pinned and which ones you don't want to.

Art, you and I have apparently been building models for about the same amount of time. Do you ever think how nice CA would have been to have when we were kids? I can't imagine building without it today. Years ago, shortly after the CA stuff started hitting the market I read that Eastman Kodak actually invented the stuff in about 1957, but after seeing how it would glue fingers together in the lab, were afraid to market it commerically because of possible problems (such as lawsuits!). I'm glad someone finally took the chance!
Randy

I use to have day dreams about such a glue back then, and covering that didn't need all that dope, yup it sure would have been nice!!!

From what I've gathered over the years, CA came from the medical field, and was actually used in the M.A.S.H units to glue injured soldiers back together in the field until they could get to a better equipped facility. I'm thinking it started in Korean war or about that time. These are tidbits I've picked up over the years, I've always thought it was kind of interesting.

There are several different varieties that are made, and it's used heavily in Dental field also. Matter of fact, when you get a cap or bridge the resin used is actually stronger form then we use on our models. I tried to get some from my dentist when I had a bridge done a few months back, it's outrageously expensive though. I'll stick with what we have thank you.

I too have used all sorts of stuff....how bout AMBROID or TESTORS(YUK)? That was very popular when I started in the early 70's. Glues even then were harder to come by...then along came CA. Man, I thought that was the best since sliced bread. A whole wing panel in a night? Sure, no problemo. A whole airframe in a week or less, absolutely. And...no hunting down mom's pins...man, she'd get irate when her pins had glue on them.... memories....wow.

Try using the wifes iron for monokoting, only to find out that the next time she uses it on a dress, it has left over adhesive stuck to the iron, which is now stuck to her dress!!
Randy

Is Rocket City still around ? Anybody that still sells this pin clamps ? Thanks............

Pin, whats a pin? I haven't used them since I quit using ambroid glue. hahahaha Just kidding, Used one the other day to unclog my ca bottle. hehe

I only pin through a part if there is no other way to pin it down.

With T-pins you use the "T" to hold a part down and the pin part to hold it to the board.

If the part is too thin for the "T" to touch it, then insert the pin into the building board at an angle until the "T" holds the part down.

No sense poking holes in your structure if you don't have to.

Don

When you guys use weights to hold the parts down (ex: Wing Ribs) what weights do you use? I'm in the process of gluing my wing ribs down, and I can't pin through plywood, so I have to use weights. Or is there another way?

Thank you again.

Patrick

I use T-Pins to hold down everything. To hold a rib down just put the pin up against the rib and use the "T" to hold it down.

If you need real weights, visit a SCUBA supply store

Don