Beautiful!!!!  Great ideas for my next T60.  Didnt think it was big enough for a gasser. 

The DLE 20 is almost the same size and weight as my Satio 125. I found that the Saito 100 with a 14x8 MAS prop was a bit under powered. I figured that I would have unlimited Vertical with that setup but was not even close, maybe 60 to 100 feet untill it would stall out. I had to add almost a pound of lead in the noise with the Saito 100 so am hopeing that the extra weight of this setup will get me better ballanced.

I have been finnishing up the last little bit of detail painting. I now have yellow bands on the buttom of the wing and the service hatch painted. The use of a Airbursh makes this work so nice and easy.

That is a Satio 100 I have sitting in the front.

Have you run the DLE20 yet. I had a Saito 1.25 and the vibrations were quite a bit for the airframe and the DLE20 will probably be no exception. It seems the small the cc on gas the worse the vibrations get. I will be curious to see it as I have a few birds that the 20cc will fit nicely.

Shane

I could not get my Tiger to balance after paint.  It was extremly tail heavy witha Magnum 91 4s.  I stripped the paint completly and removed the cutouts in the aft fuselage then covered with ultracoat.  It balanced perfectly then.  You can see my covering and paint method in the other Tiger thread.  Obviously I did something wrong.  I gotta say I am a bit amazed that with that large an engine you still need that much nose weight.  I actually came to the conclusion that the length of the fuse eliminates the Tiger from using paint to cover.</p>

yeah me too .
I went with A tail dragger set up and it came out way tail heavy .
i added weight and used a special cg balancer ,checked cg inverted as per directions should be good ,,,

With any luck I will be picking up the DLE from LHS this weekend, they are about a hour a way, and Toronto is no fun driving through any time of day.

I made a lot of mistakes on the first T60, I fiberglassed everything with epoxy reson and did not remove the cutouts, Ihad 2 coats of paint and used 3 cans of clear coat. the total fly weight with the satio 100 was over 10 1/2 lbs.
It flew great but not out standing, with the satio 100 it did not have any "wiggle room" if you got into trouble.

On this plane I removed the cutouts and used bulsa over the entire fuse(1/16") and (3/32) on wings andonly used glass on the wings and used the Minwax spar varnish instead of the reson. I used a LOT less paint (I picked up 4 bottles of paint 4OZ each, Dark blue, red, yellow and metallic turquoise. and have most of the paint left over)
I am using a rubber engine mount and found the spec drawing for the DLE20 last night, so I made a mock up of the bolt pattern from light ply. This allowed me to drill and attach the engine mount with out the engine installed yet.

As stated earlier in this thread with the radio, servios ,fuel tank, retracts...well everything but the engine installed, I am weighing in at 6pounds even.

If all else fails, and the DLE will not work in the Tiger, I still have a Top Flite P51D and a Wills Hobbies Zero (flies great withthe Satio 1.25)that will take that engine. Or (looks around to see if wife is watching) get a different kit to build.

The way I look at it, I went through5 gallons of nitro this year at $40 a pop. that is almost the cost of the DLE 20, and I can steal some fuel out of one of my dirt bikes (CRF450r and a YZ250).

Ona side note, One thing I was reading last night (forget what site) is using clear Ultracoat, giving it a light sanding than Airbursh over it...I was wondering if anyone has tried that?

Less than 7 pds...sounds like you have figured out the correct technique.  I am going to try the glassing technique a guy is using in a TF p51 build in this foeum.  He posted a video and his method looks great.  Just a coincidence that I will be using it on a TF p51 also. 
From a few feet away my ultracoat covering is passable.  But up close you can see so many seams.  I want to learn to paint better so that I can get away from that.

Head to Home Depot and grab a quart of Minwax Spar varnish. It is about 20 bucks, and will last for many projects. I used a 4 inch wide foam (i think it was foam, it is white and has no fabric to make hairs) paint roller. try on a spare peice of bulsa, I lay the glass cut to size on the surface to be glassed, roll the roller in the varnish, using a small paint tray. than roll it on the glass, it forces the varnish through the glass and into the bulsa, if you get too much on, roll on a area where you have not put any varnish to empty out the roller, than go back and reroll over the area with too much, the roller will pick up any extra and hold it inside the roller, try doing that with epoxy! The varnish also has a longer curing time and lets you work the glass in to place at a more practical pace.Nothing like working on a time limit and getalmost finnished when the epoxy cures,and there isno need to use a squeegy to wipe off extra. The varnish also sands a LOT easier than epoxy, I use 280 grit and do a light once over and use the air from the airbursh line ( filtered and dried) to blow off any dust. Also a great way to clean off your work bench, or to get everything to one corner

Here is a few photos of my TF mustang, the smaller stang is a Hangar 9 PTS( what I used to teach myself to fly this spring)

This is only the minwax/glass and airbursh. the noise of the P51D is brushed on Tester paint as I could not find a olive drab in air brush....

Eric

I broke my Satio 1.25 in on the T60. Once I installed a OS F type plug and got the high end/low end set, the vibrations were not too bad Mid 1800s idle. I usually trim the idle higher for flying just incase of a flame out and drop it back down to land I have sence picked up a Rubber engine mount, hope that works.

Well, I picked up the DLE 20 today, It takes up a lot of room up front. after spending the day trying to get both batteries and CDI and throtle servo up front, I finally got it in. I have camera on charge and hope to upload some photos soon

Eric

What is the total weight of the motor?

Shane

I think the total wieght of enging with battery was 2.3 Lbs. Batt is on charge now, will see how it runs tomorrow.
,

Engine - 23.03oz(660g), Exhaust - 1.8oz(51g), Ignition - 3.8oz(108g), Plug - .5oz(14g), Wires - .3oz(8.5g), Total - 29.7oz(820g)
So 1.85 Lbs plus ignition battery.

this info is from troy built modles

Well I tried the engine today, It is a lot louder than I was expecting. I might have to make a glass pack scilencer for it. With the choke on, It fired up after maybe 6 good flips, than 4 or 5 more with the choke off. Idle is insane, nice and low, there is some lag in the mid range after ideling for a few mins. I think the engine is loading up and needs to clean it self out. if I go from idle to WOT, there is a bogas it passes mid, but did not give any sign of quiting. If I give it a blip on the throtle, there is no mid range lag.

One thing I noticed is that when you come off WOT to idle, it takes some time to idle down. It will drop to around 3k and stay there for 10 - 15 seconds than drops down to idle. It might just need a carb adjustment.I have only run a few OZ of fuel through it, maybe it will clear up when it is better run in. It is nice not having to carry a glow driver with you anymore. I took it for a few laps up and down the street, shut the engine off, give it one good flip and it is back to life. I am going to love using Gas. I have my eye on a ESM FW190 71" and am thinking of a 30CC gasser now. My satio 1.25 has maybe 1 1/12 gallan of glow through it and not sure if I am going to keep runnig it or switch over to gas. It is that nice.

I put the T60 on the ballancer and was not happy, With the plane ready to fly, I needed to add almost one pound of weight to the nose to bring CG to 4 1/2 inch from LE.Using the highly accurate bathroom scale method,( have to pick up a good fish scale) I have put on 20 pounds in the past few months and the tiger is just over 10 lbs. Both numbers were a shock to me. With the extra CC of the DLE will help with the extra wing loading, Just a faster landing speed

If the weather is good this weekend, and not snowing I might try and do a maiden on Sunday....if not, It will have to wait until spring as there will not be many more good days until the snow.



Pit viper 1.... I used a brass prop nut/spinner. It helps a lot with low RPM vibration. the DLE did not seem to be shaking the Airframe much at all from idle up to taxi, and no vibrations above that.


Eric

I guess it is true that even a brick will fly with enough power, Idid my maiden this morning, It was -3 deg out sidewith a good 10 -15 Mph cross wind when I got to the flying field. The DLE was not jetted for that low a temp so it ran OK but not great, than again I was only running OK and not great ( I am still cold). After applying the choke and giving the DLE 10 good spins with my chickenscrewdriver, I got a happy pop from the engine. I removed choke and gave it 2 more good flips anditcame to life. Last nightI removed the idle adjust screw (as advised in the gas forums). I broughtthe RPMs down with the stick and it stalled asI had the carbcosed too far. 4 or 5 clicks on the trim did the trick. Irestarted the DLE and it sat at idle for 30- 45 seconds happy as can be. I cycled through the RPM range a few times after theengine was warmed up and all looked good, So it was time to do some playing. I did a few low speedtaxi to see how ground handeling was.The ground was frozen and the T60 seemed to bounce a bit on the runway. Idid a few fast taxi (tailoff ground) and it was looking good. Iwent down tothe end of the runway and started to increase power. The T60 had noproblem getting off the ground and reaching for thesky. Theforward to Aft trim was spot on but had a lot of left wing drop, was easy to keep level with the sticks, I will have to have a look atside ballance. I only did 3 or 4 passes as I could not feel my hands. On my first attempt to land, a nice gust of wind hit me as I was about 4 -5 feet off the ground and at the far end of the runway. I throtled up and did another pass. On the second attempt, I kept up a little extra air speed to counter the wind. I touched down a little hard and removed a retract rail from the wing. Very little damage. The plywood at the rib failed, twisting and popping off a sheet of bulsa covering. When I got home I use a scribe tool I use for woodworking and made a streight line form the LE to the middle of the wing spar, two passes with the scribe will cut 1/2 way through the bulsa and leaves a nice streight line to run a hobby knife down. With in 5 mins I had the sheeting removed and am ready to re-enforce the landing gear rails. Unless we get a major warm spell, I think my flying season is over until spring. After breaking so many bones from racing Moto-x when I was younger is really catching upto me.

In closing, I would recommend the DLE-20 to anyone. It is easy to start and runs fabulous. The E-flite retracts are running flawlessly aswell. And everyone already knows that the Tiger 60 is an AWSOME bird and wil bring years of fun.


Eric

I am covering the wing rite now. I have completed the cowal and covered the tail feathers. I am ready to install them. The landing gear including the tail wheel has been fitted as has been the motor. getting ready to cover the fuse too. I am a slow coverer... I have been pushing lots of snow too.

Any photos?
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When I can get to the LHS I can buy alot of ultracoat.  plan on completly recovering my Tiger.  I thought about letting my stepson do it.  He is very capable.  Just less patience than even me.  I will post pics when it happens.  Maybe neext week.

I am building a tiger 2 that I have had for some time, Found this tread and in awe of what you guys have done with them, There aint a bad one in the bunch! Great job and hope to post some pictures when I get mine done! My last one I bought on Ebay that was put together and the covering had to be taken off and sanded and recovered. But it flew like a dream till the servo tray came loose and lost it, The servo tray was blamed because I lost the rudder elevader and throtel all at once! So This one is getting more attention to the servo tray and more, I did go with duel sevo's in the wing instead of the one! Other then that it will be stock with a OS 46 AX for power, Colors picked out will be red, black and yellow same as my last one, I could see it pretty good! I did enjoy this thread and plan to buy a Tiger sixty in the near future and follow it even closer, Thanks all!

what is the maximum size prop that will fit on this bird in the trike configuration?

The prop size should be determined by the recommendations of the motor manufacturer as outlined in the handbook. All manufacturers will give you a prop range that is suitable and some even suggest the size for a particular application whether it be for general sport flying, aerobatics etc. Start with the mid range and see how you go.

If you are worried by ground clearance just extend the length of the U/C legs as changing prop diameter within the recommended range will only change it by an inch at most which translates to 1/2 inch ground clearance. The easier option is to install larger diameter wheels and this is often well worth it for better ground handling particularly on rougher surfaces such as grass runways.

If you don't understand prop technology and sizing as a general rule a lower pitch is a bit like a lower gear in a car. For the same number of moter revs you will be slower but at the same time at idle the model will land slower. A higher pitch is generally faster but if you over do it ( too high a pitch and too large a diameter) the motor will labor under load and possibly overheat.

I am well aware how to install the proper size prop on my engine. Anyone know that maximum prop that will clear the ground?

I tried to install a 14 inch prop, but decided a 1/4 inch clearance was not enough. I now use a 13 inch prop. A 13.5 would work also.

laser cut short kit is finished, be on the website soon.
Bob