Thanks. Iwill certainly pin the hinges. As far as the 60 goes, Iam building a Tiger 2 (40 size) so I am thinking the 52 should be good. I would be a little
hesitant to put a 60 on it. Also, Ialready have the 52 from an airplane Iwas flying early last summer.

Ithink Iam going to move ahead with the wing mounted servos. IthinkI'll make a servo tray that fits the wing, and then do a little sheeting along the
bottom for a servo outlet.

Jon, did you find out about the torque rods for the ailerons?  I do not have my kit in hand yet so I dont know what is standard for this kit.  I would prefer a servo for each aileron instead of a torque rod.  What do the plans call out for?  Kinda want to know if that is a mod I will have to do.  I've never done that mod but it seems like it would be simple enough.

26 days and counting till I have my kit.  I plan on buying my wife one of those 750 dollar digital SLR cameras for Xmas so I will have her practice on pics of my build.  Photography is HER hobby. 

Hi guys, I just started my Tiger 60 kit this last week, have the stab done and working on the fin. I was wondering for you guys that have built the taildragger mod what tail wheel kit did you use? What is the average weight that all your Tigers came in at and how much weight did you have to add to the nose?

Thanks for the info guys enjoyed the builds on here, a lot of nice looking Tigers. I will try to get some pics up later next week.

I'm changing to a tail dragger this very minute!
Sullivan Tail wheel bracket. - $8
Dubro wheel - @2

Fiberglass landing gear - $2

Hopefully I'll try it out on Sunday!

I mounted my TTPro .61 as far forward on the mount as I could and I didnt have to add any weight as a trike, havent checked it as a tail dragger yet.. give me about an hour....!

Steve

Well started my Tiger 60 build and have finished both the stab and the fin now. Noticed that the pieces were not the same size as the plans. the dimensions on the plans are the same as the pieces but not the plan itself, took out my ruler and sure enough the plan was bigger by a 1/16th of an inch. So I decided to build to the leading edge of the plan and put it together that way.

Working on doing one side of my wing when disaster struck, my lab smacked into me and caused me to fall on my nearly finished wing half breaking all ribs in half.
So now I have to order some material to build new wing ribs. That will set me back a few weeks. Also notice that the trailing edge did not fit the ribs like the plan. That is a few things I have noticed that were not right with this kit, some of the basswood spars were warped and other spars were warped as well. Not that impresed with this kit right now. The one thing that keeps me going is how well the plane flys once built.

Hi Wolflord,
I hope I can help don't be to despondent.
Unless the wing ribs are totally shattered just place the pieces back in alignment and use cyano (thin) wicked into the cracks to put them back together. The glue joint will be as strong if not stonger than the original wood. Remember there isn't much strength contributed to the wing by the ribs rather they perform the job of giving the wing its aerofoil shape and keep the spars spaced. The strength of the wing is mainly in the spars and in that respect it is REALLY important to fit spar webs between the top and bottom spars. This stops them spreading under load and gives the wing some rigidity to avoid twisting.
Regarding your warped spars ( both basswood and balsa). It is a simple process to straighten them
moisten them with some water - not too wet wrapping them in a damp cloth will do for a minute or so and some people put a bit of methylated spirits in the water as it softens the wood fibres- and then bend them gently in the opposite direction to the warp while applying heat. An iron works well particularly the sort that is used to apply shrink covering such as Monokote. the iron heats the water. so has to be quite hot without burning, this creates steam in the wood fibres and the warp will straighten out. You may have to do this a couple of times to get it straight.
Regarding the plann being bigger than the pre cut timber. Paper streches and shrinks with atmospheric moisture and so a large plan could easily be out by the amount you indicated. Your approach which was to build from a fixed point was correct and the small size variation will have no effect.
This is a situation where size doesn't matter ( within reason). What matters is the the model is built straight and there are no warps in the wings. This can only be achieved by building on a very carefully laid building board the is dead true as measured by a spirit level and straight edges. I use 1/2 inch ply srewed to a very sturdy bench and get it true by packing up the low spots with layers of newspaper.
This has always stood me in good stead with models up to 1/3 scale and 12 foot wingspans.
Cheers,
Tim
From Australia

Hi, I am gone to join the party soon,and build me a second tiger 60. The first one was a very good plane and had a long life. - you can see her in my gallery.
Power is a K&B 61, with a Perry Carb. should be enough.

Wolflord, I am a canadian by birth and I have been to BC every second week for years. I cannot remember ever heard the name of your town Houston.
You will smile, I guess, I have not winter jacket or boots or mits. My problem is to cool my engines down.
Have a good Holiday Season!
My first tiger was green, I will do this one blue.
Ray

</p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt"><span style="font-size: larger"><span style="font-family: Comic Sans MS"><span style=""><span style="line-height: 115%">I have been watching this thread for some time now and Santa brought me a Tiger 60 for Christmas, only took a little hinting. I have the horizontal and vertical stabs built up and am sanding them now. I plan on making the tail dragger. I will post some pic's later as I go. Thanks for all the info and help. This is a great thread.</span></span></span></span></p>

Hi Matt,

Check out the other tiger 60 build thread as well.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_93...mpage_3/tm.htm

Stevenmax50, I am fascinated with your cloth covering. I have some of the stuff around here if I can find it (just moved!). Did I understand you correctly when you said you used Sanding Sealer first and then Minnwax Water based polyurethane(6 coats) to put on the fiberglass cloth for the wing center section? I am allergic to epoxy and would love to do that if you think it is strong enough. I am planning on using 3/4 glass cloth.

Ghitt....did you mean to post in this other thread?

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_9308643/tm.htm

Come check us out in there.
Now, what model are you building? If it has open bays you have to use Sig Stix-it first. Itis the adhesive for theKoverall fabric. Ido not believe you can glass open bays. If your modelswing is 100% sheeted thenyes, you can glass the entire wing.
Did you epoxy the wing halves when you joined them?
Come check us out in the other build thread. It is an active thread with a few guys in there with alot of info. I'd love to help so come on over and give us some more data.

ok dudes my model is built the tiger 60 . with a saito 91 4 s for power .bashed the kit while building for better stability.pics up this sunday.

problem is tail heavy . and yes its a tail dragger to add gas to the fire .way tail heavy . i dont like it one bit. the battery is under the fuel tank and still damm tail heavy .its so tail heavy that after adding some lead stick weights to the fuel tank area still tail heavy . just for a weight gauge. i just took like 6 aa baterries and still heavy what the f***?????

any ideas ??? i can use all the help on this simple but troublesome matter/ thanks to all in this room .....stoner out

Is it covered?  With what exactly?  My Tiger isnt ready to check balance yet.  But I have read alot of input from other guys.  I have to say I have not read anything as bad as yours.  Did you paint the tailfeathers? 

all covered with monokote .no paint . i did leave all the tabs intact on the fusalage . and also used epoxy on all hinged surfaces.
i do belive that adding a mounting block .and a heavy tail wheel is where most of my issues might be ,in the rear of the fusalage

And are you positive you're checking CG from the correct position? I don't mean to be insulting, but it's one of those 'Doh!' kind of moves we all make once in a while. I'm running an O/S .75 with a big aluminum anti-vibration motor mount in mine and a built up cowl. I don't believe I have any extra weight in there. I do, however, have a pair of A123 cells from a DeWalt battery pack embedded as my RX battery, so there's a bit of weight there. My overall weight was a bit on the heavy side too.


Tom

well i guess checking center of gravity under the main spar is usless in the tiger kit . now i have to mark the location and turn this simple fundamental task into something that needs close attention . this is so annoying. leave it to a goldberg kit ..ill keep ya all posted thanks

I am misunderstanding something Lonestoner.
You need to check the CG but say you can't because the main spar is covered? Can you not measure from the leading edge of the wing to the CG and mark it?

stoner here.hey wolflord

how were the olympics ??i love bc , the bud is awsome up there .

the main spar and covering is not the problem ..just that in most cases i balance the C .G. like 30 %in from the front leading edge which brings us on to the main spar in most cases and balancing is done .

so im gonna have to follow the plans and balance the plane where they want ,and work it out .in any case its a solid bird posting pics on sunday to all to see

i also just ordered a cg balancer from tower to ease this situation for my next project.

i hope all is good in bc .

team canada was pretty cool on the moguls . be good

stoner out .................

Hey, are you guys using the wooden pushrods included in the kit? Is there a better way?
I have my fuse all rubber-banded together, but silly me, I'm nervous about laying the glue to it for fear I'llget it crooked. Any tricks on keeping it straight?

Thanks,
Rick

Hey Rick,
I am using sullivan's gold n rods (the blue ones) instead of the chuncks of wood the kit supplies. I had an issue with one of the wood rods busting on my Eagle 2. Good thing was it was at home and not while it was flying.

As far as the fuselage and keeping it straight. I have a couple of triangles I use that I leave on the side of the fuselage while I am glueing, and I keep it over the plan to make sure I am in the right spot.

Hope this helps.

Stoner,
yeah the olympics were good, we did good in a few events, I liked the hockey game as it was a close one.

Let me warn you about my tiger build last winter. I followed instructions and ended up with a crooked fuselage.
My sides both had a bad bow in the same direction. I was told to just rubber band it together and add glue.
I returned the bowed fuse to goldburg and they sent me a whole new kit.
On my 2nd attempt ( the new fuse sides were also badly bowed ) I cut a 1/4" hardwood template from the plans.
This template fit exactly inside the fuse as I assembled it, keeping it straight with clamps.
It was tricky as I had to cut the template into sections so I could remove it after the glue dried.

This fuse is straight!

I have pics in a previous post somewhere on RCU...

Steve

hi all

i am using special canopy glue to glue the canopy in place , just for the record to spread the good word

lonestoner,

I would start at 25% on your CG if say you didn't have the instructions, but since you have them go with it. Not all planes respond the same to the same CG%. I use 25% on bi-planes as well and it's always fairly close.

One other thing, are you balancing it inverted or not?


Shane

Hi All,
Shane is correct. Although it is possible to balance a low wing model right way up it is tricky and balancing inverted is always easier and more accurate.
My Tiger 60 ( trike) was built from plans, not a kit and the tail feathers and wing are covered in monokote, tha fuselage is balsa ( no cutouts) and then covered with tissue and dope before being painted - sandable undercoat and then an automotive top coat.
The model balanced on the indicated c of g which is 10 cm back from the leading edge of the wing without needing to add any weight, just moving the radio gear, particularly the battery pack around. This was using a Magnum 75 2 stroke and standard muffler as the power plant.
Cheers,
Tim

By the way, I also had heard the tigers were tail heavy but mine was spot on as a trike with no extra weight.
running a TTPro .61