Sig Hog-Bipe kit.
#77
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From: Ft. Wayne,
IN
I just finished up a Sig Pig myself and used a number of mods found on this thread. I started with a Saito .72 that I had on a 40 size profile and that engine did a fairly good job of getting the bipe around. I tried a number of props and settled on an APC 14x4 that I ran on the profile and found that the bipe could hang on the prop but only at full throttle and on 30% wildcat fuel. I could not accelerate up from a hover, it would only hang there or fall back into a sink. I broke down and bought a Saito 1.00, again because of the number of comments here on this thread and as of last night, it's ready to go all mounted up for this weekend. We will see how she flies with a bit more muscle.... Thanks guys for all the suggestions!
Scott
P.S. the 14x4, .72 and 30% combo would make the prop break into a rip at the bottom of a dive and a fast pass a cross the field. What a cool sound, just like the big boyz!
Scott
P.S. the 14x4, .72 and 30% combo would make the prop break into a rip at the bottom of a dive and a fast pass a cross the field. What a cool sound, just like the big boyz!
#78
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From: Ft. Wayne,
IN
Update:
Had a chance this weekend to put a couple flights in on the new engine combo and all I can say is WOW! What a difference the 100 makes. It was just the kick in the pants the pig needed for just about anything one can do with this plane. I can now hold a hover at about half throttle and accelerate up from that at full throttle. I'm running the same 30% fuel and an APC 16x4 prop at about 9800 rpm. this combo will also rip out of a dive but not quite a much as the older and broken in .72 before.
Scott
Had a chance this weekend to put a couple flights in on the new engine combo and all I can say is WOW! What a difference the 100 makes. It was just the kick in the pants the pig needed for just about anything one can do with this plane. I can now hold a hover at about half throttle and accelerate up from that at full throttle. I'm running the same 30% fuel and an APC 16x4 prop at about 9800 rpm. this combo will also rip out of a dive but not quite a much as the older and broken in .72 before.
Scott
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From: Ft. Wayne,
IN
At the moment, I have a 5 cell, 2500 mah nimh battery pack stuffed into the little pocket behind the servo location under the push rods to balance the hog bipe between the 30% and 35% balance point without any reserve to make minor adjustments without adding weight to the tail. I am thinking about relocating the rudder and elevator servos to the tail just behind the last former to gain back the ability to move the battery pack forward for fine tuning the balance point. I'm thinking that a shorter distance on both push rods will be a benefit also, anyone else out there looked at doing the same thing?
Scott
Scott
#80
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From: Hanover Park,
IL
So, I have had my hog-bipe project on hold for a while, and I am just now getting back to it... some what - I still need to finish the fuse (about 90% done), but for now I decided to start covering the stab and fin... The main color is metalic blue, with black and white checker board on the bottom.... I still did not workout the graphics I want to put on the plane, so for now only the "base" color is going on.....
#81
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From: fayetteville,
NC
Just read thru this thread for the first time and thought I would chime in about the Saito 100 twin for power. That is exactly what I have on mine, I cut the cheeks completely off and just mounted it on the firewall horizontally. It's a relatively heavy motor so balance was the biggest issue, I used 2 batteries, one receiver and one onboard glow and mounted them as far back as possible. I managed to get it balanced without adding any tailweight. As far as power, it doesn't have unlimited vertical but it has enough to handle big loops etc. I enjoy the combination even though I'm sure it would fly better with less weight and more power.
#82
Well, have been flying the lime green monster on floats for a few weeks now & it flies great! It takes a LOT of opposite aileron mixed with rudder, otherwise the rudder will do a nice roll on it's own. Could use some up elevator as well, but this is beyond the ability of the Futaba 6ex Faast system (can't mix "up" elev for both left & right rudder...) where or where is a the 12FG 2.4 system?????
As expected, it weathervanes strongly into the wind when on the water. Fast taxi cures this, so would some spring loaded retractable "turn fins" somewhere near the step of the floats...
Glad I didn't bother mounting a tailwheel as this one will never be on wheels! The upper wing is a very convenient handle for getting the plane in & out of the water from the dock. Never thought about that advantage versus the mono-wing but it's great.
It seems to handle best with the floats set 1 degree negative to the stab.
I used the Goldberg Superfloats (kit), plenty of stability for a rather heavy hog bipe. One water rudder is plenty.
The saito 100 is perfect, wouldn't use anything else (unless you've already got a 91 sitting around)
That's all the tidbits of info I can think of at the moment!
Pics are on post #70
As expected, it weathervanes strongly into the wind when on the water. Fast taxi cures this, so would some spring loaded retractable "turn fins" somewhere near the step of the floats...
Glad I didn't bother mounting a tailwheel as this one will never be on wheels! The upper wing is a very convenient handle for getting the plane in & out of the water from the dock. Never thought about that advantage versus the mono-wing but it's great.
It seems to handle best with the floats set 1 degree negative to the stab.
I used the Goldberg Superfloats (kit), plenty of stability for a rather heavy hog bipe. One water rudder is plenty.
The saito 100 is perfect, wouldn't use anything else (unless you've already got a 91 sitting around)
That's all the tidbits of info I can think of at the moment!
Pics are on post #70
#83
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From: Downingtown,
PA
My 2 cents - My Hog has a 4-stoke OS .91 w/ 14x6. Great flying combination. I did add a 3/8" piece to enlarge the rudder. It will knife edge all day. Flat turns are a crowd pleaser and this plane does them well. Enjoy.
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From: Cumming,
GA
Nice thread guys. Just bought one of these about 2 weeks ago. Thinking about a saito .91, got a 1.20 but not sure I want that much power/weight on it.
Not sure I like the cheeks on this plane, would love to make a cowl for it instead. Anybody every try that with this plane? Shouldn't be that big of a deal as long as I can get the airflow right.
Voyager
Not sure I like the cheeks on this plane, would love to make a cowl for it instead. Anybody every try that with this plane? Shouldn't be that big of a deal as long as I can get the airflow right.
Voyager
#86
I wound up adding a few ounces to the nose with a heavy latex finish, floats and a saito 100. I wouldn't worry about the weight of the 120, as long as you take it easy with the throttle. With the 100 I use full throttle for takeoff/vertical lines only. There are a number of cowls that will work for the pig, check out http://www.fubarhill.com/sighog.html for some ideas.
#89

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From: Hunt,
TX
I have been building for many years and have a Rossi 60 in good shape. I am looking at a astro hog 60. Has anyone built one and could you give me an update on how they fly. Is a Rossi 60 a good match? Any changes needed on construction?
Thanks for your help
Mike
Thanks for your help
Mike
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From: BUENA VISTA, CO, ALBANIA
Tex Mike,
In order to build a hog bipe that will stand up to weekend flying for a long time u need to make several upgrades to the sig kit.
First, read EVERY post u can find on building this kit.
Lengthen the nose 4" and chuck the outer wing struts for 1/4" hard ply.
Lengthen the top wing 1 or 2 ribs on each side.
Lots of little things that turn a hog into something other than a "model airplane".
Check out some ov my old posts, and make your hog "unique".
It is a great winter build
, and your rossi will do fine.
mike
In order to build a hog bipe that will stand up to weekend flying for a long time u need to make several upgrades to the sig kit.
First, read EVERY post u can find on building this kit.
Lengthen the nose 4" and chuck the outer wing struts for 1/4" hard ply.
Lengthen the top wing 1 or 2 ribs on each side.
Lots of little things that turn a hog into something other than a "model airplane".
Check out some ov my old posts, and make your hog "unique".
It is a great winter build
, and your rossi will do fine.
mike
#92

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From: Hunt,
TX
I need a review on a astro hog bipe. Thinking about building one. Have a good Rossi 61 to put on it. Is that enough power?
Been building for about 40 years, are there any mod need to be done?
Thanks
Mike
Been building for about 40 years, are there any mod need to be done?
Thanks
Mike
#93
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From: Rowlett,
TX
Rossi 61 will be fine.
Read this thread, it will answer every Hog Bipe question http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_2560569/tm.htm
Read this thread, it will answer every Hog Bipe question http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_2560569/tm.htm
#94
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From: Grand Bay, AL
I know this is an old thread, but I would really like to know if the people that put the Saito 100 in their hog used the original motor mounts or not? I am doing the mod on mine and would like to know if I should upgrade the motor mount before I go through the trouble of drilling holes in the firewall.
#95
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From: Baltimore,
MD
I used the original motor mount that came with the kit . A rough landing and it snapped in half . I got the metal motor mount made specifically for that engine from horizon hobby and now I make sure to land with LOTS of speed.
oh yeah KEEP IT FAST WHEN LANDING !!!
I looked at furbarhill and saw the cabanas made with strong plywood and drilled out blind nuts . Highly recommend this mod.<br type="_moz" />
oh yeah KEEP IT FAST WHEN LANDING !!!
I looked at furbarhill and saw the cabanas made with strong plywood and drilled out blind nuts . Highly recommend this mod.<br type="_moz" />



