eagle 2 mods
#76
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From: Barrie ont,
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a
nyone have pics of brightly coulored or awsome paint scheems for airobatic or race planes. i want my plane to look fast on the ground befor i hit the sky and totaly rock everyone with a stock airobatic show [8D][8D]lol i have high hopes. i finaly got my new controler set up high and lows are set and damn that plan should turn i also chopped out one bay from the wing so its a smaller nimble wing . soon im going to start the sheeting of the leading edge and wing tips with 1/16 balsa and renfors spots with some spruce stiffneres. hopefully this only adds a little weight, if i have to im willing to lose some weight by takeing thetundra tires off. my first tryal flight will hopefully take place this up and coming summer with the primer as my main coulor cause if i have to fix it im not repainting. im also removeing the throtle servo and replacing it with a high speed micro servo to lose weight, hopefully a few ounces. i wana lose the stock muffler and get something more pitts or sport style i will in the future add smoke to it if i can find a four stroke 1.20 size or soo for a decent price..
nyone have pics of brightly coulored or awsome paint scheems for airobatic or race planes. i want my plane to look fast on the ground befor i hit the sky and totaly rock everyone with a stock airobatic show [8D][8D]lol i have high hopes. i finaly got my new controler set up high and lows are set and damn that plan should turn i also chopped out one bay from the wing so its a smaller nimble wing . soon im going to start the sheeting of the leading edge and wing tips with 1/16 balsa and renfors spots with some spruce stiffneres. hopefully this only adds a little weight, if i have to im willing to lose some weight by takeing thetundra tires off. my first tryal flight will hopefully take place this up and coming summer with the primer as my main coulor cause if i have to fix it im not repainting. im also removeing the throtle servo and replacing it with a high speed micro servo to lose weight, hopefully a few ounces. i wana lose the stock muffler and get something more pitts or sport style i will in the future add smoke to it if i can find a four stroke 1.20 size or soo for a decent price..
#79
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From: Barrie ont,
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its all done up to the point of covering now if you are to do all the mods put the gear closer to the leading edge of the wing cause imne if major nose heavy and use a smaller engin all that power is not needed. as for the elivator i desided not to because on my stock eagle it seemed to have more then anuf behind it to pull of all manovers assuming you set high and low gains. ah and strenghthin the wing at the tips to provent any chance of a wing strike i did it i just didnt post much on the wing.
#80
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From: Barrie ont,
ON, CANADA
yo atvfmx keep me posted on anytrubles that arise id be happt to help. i think youll love the eagle 2 one of my favorits outa all the kits ive built trainers are so fun.
#81
ok....i bought the eagle 2 four years ago already built with a fox .50 in it...i just started flying it last month though
the covering is really starting to peel off now though and i would like a tail dragger.....
i'm not sure yet if i'm going to rebuild it or get a four star 120 kit
yours looks great!!!
the covering is really starting to peel off now though and i would like a tail dragger.....
i'm not sure yet if i'm going to rebuild it or get a four star 120 kit
yours looks great!!!
#82
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From: Barrie ont,
ON, CANADA
i dont know man why retire it if it still works fix it up keep the thing tail draggeres always fun with an eagle kinda touchy on take of but it totaly bosts your abuilitys crazzy and there awsome with big wheels
#83

I learned with a "Pappy Debolt" Live Wire Champ. It'is a tail dragger.
Just put a little right rudder into it as you gain rolling speed and leave the ground.
Just put a little right rudder into it as you gain rolling speed and leave the ground.
#87
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From: Barrie ont,
ON, CANADA
no you shouldnt need to if you useing monokote or any plastic film you lay a trip between the surfaces iron it in then you can cover your large surface if i can fins a pic ill show you
i found one heres a page on how that shows what im talking bout http://www.monokote.com/monoinst1.html
i found one heres a page on how that shows what im talking bout http://www.monokote.com/monoinst1.html
#89

I may be out of line here, but there shouldn't be a need to remove hinges.
Cut a 1 inch wide strip of the covering that is a little longer than the elevator.
Crease that piece down the middle the entire length of it.
Place that piece in the slot between the elevator and the stab.
Tack it into place with your iron.
Bend the elevator down.
Now firmly iron the strip into place into the space between the elevator and stab.
You will have a little bump between the elevator and stab where the hinges are.
You can leave the bump or cut that area out......I leave the bump.
It is barely noticable.
Now your gap is sealed.
Iron the large sheet of covering over the stabalizer and over the elevator in one large sheet.
Do not try to iron the covering into the area between the elevator and the stab.
Now that it is ironed nice and smooth, take your exacto knife and carefully cut a slit down that slot between the elevator and stab.
Be careful to not cut into the 1 inch wide piece that you have ironed on to cover the gap and hinges.
Iron the covering into the slot.
It's really easy and you don't have to undo anything.
Think it out and give it a try.
You'll like it.
Cut a 1 inch wide strip of the covering that is a little longer than the elevator.
Crease that piece down the middle the entire length of it.
Place that piece in the slot between the elevator and the stab.
Tack it into place with your iron.
Bend the elevator down.
Now firmly iron the strip into place into the space between the elevator and stab.
You will have a little bump between the elevator and stab where the hinges are.
You can leave the bump or cut that area out......I leave the bump.
It is barely noticable.
Now your gap is sealed.
Iron the large sheet of covering over the stabalizer and over the elevator in one large sheet.
Do not try to iron the covering into the area between the elevator and the stab.
Now that it is ironed nice and smooth, take your exacto knife and carefully cut a slit down that slot between the elevator and stab.
Be careful to not cut into the 1 inch wide piece that you have ironed on to cover the gap and hinges.
Iron the covering into the slot.
It's really easy and you don't have to undo anything.
Think it out and give it a try.
You'll like it.
#90
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From: , AB, CANADA
Your going to love your bird with the 60 in it. Mine hovers at 3/4 throttle and I live at 3600' elevation. It always amazes everyone at the club. It's funny that my favorite plane is my trainer. Enjoy.
#91
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From: Barrie ont,
ON, CANADA
wow i love that plane canadian coulors tooo.... whats your throws set at high and low and what you think the the weight of it is cause mines heave but it has a;ll the power allso you know a ruff tops speed trottle at take of extraaa...... more pics would be nice i love this one.
#93
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From: , AB, CANADA
I have my throws set for max travel and about 40% expo on the ailerons and elevator. I really don't know how much it weighs but I have always tried to keep it light. Mine balances perfectly with the 60 up front. Easiest plane to fly, I've been vary hard on this plane for years (including snaps) and it still holds together. I'm interested to hear your flight report in the spring.
#94
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From: Barrie ont,
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thats if my covering comes soon the hobbie shop iss slow right now i think i may just fall back on monokote. ill give them a week then im going threw tower or the sig streight threw. id like to start covering withing 2 - 3 weeks .
#95
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From: Barrie ont,
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i desided to
go back and re work the flaps i now have all the movment i want heres some pics of the flaps and othere things ive done.


