Steve, on mine, I am using two HiTec thin wing servos for ailerons, one for each wing panel, so I don't have the rigging issue.

For my Proctor Jenny, I hope my explanation is clear . The way it works is that there is one servo in the fuselage with "joining" cables coming out each side of the fuselage about 3 inches with a turnbuckle on each end so the wings can be disconnected from the fuse. The cable is located about mid-way between the upper and lower fuselage longerons, and just runs through a hole in the covering at that point. Another cable attaches to the other end of that turnbuckle and runs straight to just outboard of the front outer spar where it attaches to the upper wing, then it feeds thru a miniature pulley, then back (chordwise) to the lower aileron horn where it is secured. A cable on the upper wing side of that same (double-sided) aileron horn runs forward (chordwise) to a point just above the lower pulley, feeds through the upper pulley that is secured there, straight down the wing to a point somewhat above the middle of the wing where it ends in a turnbuckle so it can be disconnected above the top wing. Cable then continues towards the opposite wing, same way thru a pulley and back to the upper side of that wing's aileron horn. On the lower side of that aileron horn, another cable runs underneath the wing, forward to a pulley located same as other wing, then straight to the turnbuckle on the opposite side of the fuselage where the opposite cable comes out from the aileron servo. A lot of words to discuss what is really a simple solution when you see it, but essentially, it is a closed system with 4 pulleys, two on top and two on bottom of the wing panels located about where the forward strut attaches to the upper wing, but outboard about one rib location. Tightening up the turnbuckles gives a pretty tight system without much slop, but needs to be a "little" loose so it doesn't bind up at the end of the servo excursions. This may be hard to follow, and if it isn't clear, let me know and I'll take a couple of photos that should clear it up.

The Proctor Jenny probably used this system to be true to scale, but I think it may be prone to problems. Now you can see why I am using two servos for mine.

I got sidetracked and haven't finished covering the fuselage on mine. Should be done this week, then I can add rigging. If you need a rigging diagram, let me know, as I saved my sketches from the Proctor and plan to duplicate that on this model.

Lee

Lee - thanks for the description. The Antic uses a slightly different approach with turnbuckles and cables so I called Joe at Proctor and he explained how it works. Putting servos in the wings is very tempting, especially because you can put in differenctial, but I think I'm going to attempt the old fashion method.
Steve

Hi Steve,

Thanks for the link. Now that I've read through your thread, in regards to your concern about the Model Master paint having a tendency to mark up, yes, the flat paints will tend to scuff readily. Normal handling is fine, but drag a fingernail across the finish, and it will burnish the surface a bit, causing an apparent change in color. I've found that it is difficult to actually chip the paint away, but can be "weathered" nicely.

A light coat of flat clear will eliminate the possiblity of burninshing from the occasional hanger scuff. Also, the flat clear didn't make any difference to the base color, at least ot my eye.

Super job, looks great.

Doug

Hey Doug - You perfectly understand my concern, the sheen and color change slightly when I run my finger nail against the finish. Considering that I load my car pretty full when I head to the field, it will probably be wise to protect the finish with a clear coat. Model Masters has a clear flat laquer in a rattle can that is made to go over their enamel paints (most laquers will eat enamel) so I'll probably give this a try. Some people have used the spray can version of Minwax Polycrylic with success, but I'm not sure how well this will bond to the enamel finish; I suspect it will sit on top rather than chemically bond like a laquer will. Thanks,
Steve

Steve, I finished covering my fuselage and today shot a coat of clear poly from a spray can onto the bottom of the lower wings. Looks good so far, sure a lot easier than getting out the spray rig, etc. I'll need the fuel proofing so that's why I'm using clear poly. By the way, I've forgotten, are you using pull-pull cables for the rudder and elevator as I showed in my earlier photos? If so, before you cover (am I too late?), take some measurements of where the cables exit the fuselage so you can poke holes in the covering in the right place after you cover. Probably preaching to the choir here, but if I don't say something when I think of it, it's gone [&o]. Tough to get old. Lee

Hey Lee - Glad your making some progress and thanks for the tip. I was planning on using some construction paper to mark the exit holes. Yeah, I'm running pull pull rudder and elevators just like you did. Still trying to figure out how to secure the elevator bellcrank inside the fuse. The problem is that it's pretty tight in there and I need to be able to access it to attach the clevises.

I have one wing rigged up and it was actually pretty straight forward. I still, however, need to finalize my wing attachment mechanish for the wings. I'm probably just going to use brass tabs that I can screw into a hard mount in each wing panel, similar to how you did it. I notice that you only have one fastening point per wing panel, do you think this is adequate?

I'm now also leaning towards putting servos in the bottom wing and using a stiff pushrod to connect the upper aileron. I think this will just make setup/break down easier and will give me a better setup.

Steve

Steve, I ran a flat strip of appx 1/4" wide brass across the bottom of the fuse (fore and aft,) and an equal strip across the top of the center section of the wing (fore and aft,) for wing panel attach points. I drilled them so I could screw into each wing panel for quick disassembly. Where they attach to the ribs, I created 1/4" bass root ribs, so the screws have something to bite into. Essentially, both wing sides pull against each other, and the alignment pins keep everything straight. I'm sure they will be adequate because I used short brass pieces (per the plans) to attach the top wings of my Proctor N28 and they hold fine.

I'm using ailerons only on the lower wing panels, per scale, although you'll have better aileron control with ailerons in both wings. It's a whole lot easier to rig with just one servo per wing and pushrods as you plan, rather than the complications of cables going everywhere.

The clear poly came out great. I coated one half of the wings yesterday and brought them into the house to cure (it's still in the 20s at night.) No odor and the poly set up nicely. Other sides today and the fuselage, then I can shoot on the olive drab for the front of the fuse as well as the red/white/blue on the rudder. I needed some motivation because the SBD was getting to me with all of the detail, and it's nice to see the Jenny coming along.

Lee

Steve, oops , I said ailerons are in the lower wing. What was I thinking? They're in the upper wing. It's tough to get old. Lee

Great thread - about to pull the trigger on the large one - but am waiting to see about the engine - are the wings covered - would love to see how the stained ribs show through of if leaving them without the stain looks better - I was going to do the wings in the antique coverite fabric - would love to see the difference

Hi Sblue - I stained my rib capping strips (actually still need to do upper wing) and the spars hoping that the color shows through the Solartex I plan to use. Only reason is I want to show off all that hard work! I'll be covering mine in about one month and will be sure to show pictures. I've taken over the room in the basement to do the rigging, and it's pretty straightforward once I began. Are you thinking of building the large Antic Bipe or the true Jenny?
Steve

5blue, I built the large Proctor Jenny as well as this "smaller" Antic Jenny. For the large one, I stained everything - wings, fuse, and tail, then covered with unpainted coverite. I gave it a coat of pale yellow butyrate dope to match the Love Field Jenny, and the stain doesn't show through the paint. Also went the whole way and added rib stitching, small brass nails for the front sheet metal work, etc. The rigging is a little more complex on the larger one, but well worth the extra effort.

For the Antic Jenny, I didn't stain anything, but covered it with antique color WorldTex, then coated it with clear poly. Actually, the unpainted framework shows through the WorldTex, and if you stain the framework, I'm pretty sure it will show through even better. Whether you're building the larger or smaller version, it's hard to go wrong with a Proctor kit.

Lee

Thanks Lee and Insalacosm - I'm looking forward to the rest of this build and can't wait to see the final outcome

Insalacosm - I was going to build the antic as the Farman - never seen it done and should be fun - its not that different - acturall I'm amazed that they havn;t done a kit of this plane - its a real gentleman flyer - only 20 brought to america - 1920 or so - planing on a three cylinder engine - exposed with aluminum firewall - and the same gear and tail setup -

It's funny you mention the Farman, I was at the Smithsonian museum (the one just outside DC in VA) last year and saw it and thought that it is very similar to the Antic. There shouldn't be many mods needed at all which will be nice. It's a great build.
Steve

With a little improvement in the weather here, I was able to shoot the olive drab onto the forward fuselage, and the tricolor on the rudder. Installed the wing servos and attached all of the fittings to the upper/lower wings. Now, the next step will be to attach the wings and put the rigging on, which takes some time (I think there are 24 turnbuckles.) The wing fittings for the "inner" cable tie down points are attached to the root ribs on both upper and lower wings. That way, I'll be able to detach an upper/lower set by unscrewing only four screws and disconnecting only one aileron cable. Should make field setup a lot easier than the larger Jenny. Once I get it rigged, I'll include some photos. Lee

Steve - I can't imagine that this hasn't been built - Its a beautiful plane and looks so light and airey - I'm not sure if I have what it takes to complete it and would hate to have it just sit in my work space taking up room - but I think it would be a great build

I finished the wing rigging and left one crimp on each wire lose so I can make final adjustments after it is covered. I also cleaned up the brass center cabane struts by rounding the ends and sanding off the oxidation. Instructions call to paint these black but I think I'll keep them brass. There's a product called Blacken It that I've seen used to blacken brass parts to mimic a weathered look, so this is tempting but it's not available locally. Now I just need to add some hard points in the wing for holding the wings together.

I also commited to putting servos in the bottom wing (ripped out the turnbuckles). I have a couple old Futaba S133 micro servos which I think will be suitable. They're not fast and they only produce about 28 in-oz of torque, but I think would be good enough for this model especially given it will be electric powered and the control surfaces will not be vibrating wildly making it difficult for the servos to hold center. I'm also rationalizing this choice by thinking that the servos used when the Antic first came out probably had no more than 40 in-oz of torque, and one was used for all wings. So 28 in-oz on each side gives me a little more.

Crashing on a big proposal at work and sick kids have been making it tough to find time to sneak into the workshop, but I'm so close now I'm going to keep pushing through the build even if it is cutting one piece of wood a day. This is pretty much how the entire build has been going anyway, slow but steady...

Steve

Insalacosm - looking forward to more - I watch this site very day - hope things continue as I'm learning lots (for the big one)

For what it's worth, I'm using a lot of turnbuckles for my rigging. I mistakenly (my fault) ordered some additional turnbuckles (#2) with eye bolt ends for each end. Now that I'm attaching them, I find it much easier to use the turnbuckles with clevis on one end and eye bolt on the other end. The clevis end perfectly fits over the brass fittings below the struts and are retained by a simple bent pin. The eye bolt end is for the cable termination. So, I ordered some clevis ends from Joe at Proctor, and as soon as they come, I'll be able to rig mine [&o]. Lee

Last night I installed the magnets for my cowl bottom hatch which will be used to access the battery. I forget what you call these drill bits, but they make beautifully clean holes in balsa and it's possible to control the depth. I bought these from Sears. Fostner bits and sharpened brass tubing works well too but only if you go all the way through the piece or don't care about having a flat bottom, whereas these bits make a flat bottomed hole. I bought these when I needed to make some holes for wing tubes and almost forgot about them. Once the holes were to depth, I epoxied in rare Earth magnets on the cowl and washers on the hatch. There is plenty of force holding the pieces together and the benefit of using the washer on one side versus another magnet is that it's okay if they don't line up perfectly. It snaps shut as I hoped!

Steve

the stock Antic uses an elevator bellcrank setup with the control horns on the outside of the fuse to control each elevator half. I used the same contraption but moved the control horns to the inside of the fuse to be more like a Jenny and to reduce the chance of me tearing up my other airplanes with all that exposed hardware. I really like their system of using brass tubing and brass wire soldered together. I soldered the control horns onto the wire but since I'm not a great solderer so I used JB weld to hold it all together. It would have been a little tight to get a soldering gun in there anyway. I ran thread to the elevator halves to locate exit holes and it looks like I'm going to have to run some short lengths of pushrod tubing so the wires don't rub on the wood.

I installed the servos and hooked it all up - it seems like a pretty clean setup.

Steve

Insalacosm - been watching for new posts hows the antic progress ???- looking forward to seening more

I just came across some vintage RCM Magazines. The March 1966 issue has a review of the 1/4 Scale Proctor Antic in it in Bernie Murphy's "Kits and Pieces" column. It was very interesting to read. Bernie hadn't gotten to the flying stage yet, so the column only covered the construction 'to the bones'.

Very pretty airplane.!

Bob

have been following this build with great interest as i have aquired an old proctor antic bipe. would like to see how you installed servos in the wings as i plan to go that route. beautiful job you have done on this plane.

I was in The Netherlands all last week for work so didn't make any progress, but should be able to make some progress this week.
Steve