I am going to be building the Gloster Meteor jet with retracts and all the bells and whistles I can muster in this kit. Always wanted to build a jet, just can't do a foamy or an ARF.

The kit is a short kit, all formers, ribs, canopy and plans. The kit is ordered and I will be using the recommended motor and fan set up on two 4s 5000 batteries. I will be using a Nmh for receiver and retracts.

The fan and motor combo I will be using; MF480meg3 (Mf 480 with Mega 16/15/3) for a 4 cell Lipo system

I am in the planing prosses so I wanted to get started with the thread to get feedback being this is my first jet and I'm new to electrics. I will be using two CSEM6900 Castle Creations Phoenix Ice 50A 8s (33.6V) Brushless ESC or something in this line, not sure what I need so any info or suggestions would be great.

Retracts will be electric with jet struts and wheels. I have some ideas in mind;
RC Lander has some good choices, they don't make "Meteor" gear but the mig gear looks like a good match.

The kit is made to be glassed, or has been glassed. I will not be glassing this kit. Not easy glassing and painting a kit in an apartment! I will see as I go if I need to add any reinforcing. The wing is sheathed with 1/16 balsa, so I might go with 3/32 instead or 1/16 birch ply skins. I want to use ultra-cote and do panel lines, rivets and other scale treatments so balsa looks to be the best matierial. All hinge lines will be scale, or as I call them sports scale (closed pocket). I'm thinking mini high torque servos, Futabas or HItec. Luckily I am building a jet for a friend (client) and I can see what the RC Lander retracts look like before I choose my retracts. I'm looking forward to this build, should get my kit next week and start building, pics will come shortly on the build.

TB

I saw forget the 3/32 skins and use the 1/16. I know you are thinking strength and you don't want the wings folding when doing a high speed maneuver With the 1/16 sheeting that is not going to happen. If you want a nice flying bird use the 1/16 balsa sheeting and cover with the covering of your choice it will be fine. Just make sure you glass the middle if it is a 2 piece wing join together. Which kit it is you are doing?

I tend to like 3/32 sheeting because I like to sand a lot, this way I won't sand it to thin and by the time I finish sanding it will or could end up at 1/16, but your probably right and I may just use the 1/16 and be careful on the sanding. I am planing on glassing the center section as i do on all my kits, i still haven't ruled out glassing it with 1/2 oz cloth but really don't want the mess of painting. If i go with the camo scheme. I mays use an air brush to paint, and water base acrylics and clear coat it, no mess, but a lot of work!
This kit is the Jim Young design.



TB

Ok I hear you. Yep painting can be a lot of work, but I rather do it that iron on. For me lesser of two evils that's why I go with one or two color schemes with lettering. No fancy stuff for me.

I am thinking of building this plane as well. I would keep the 1/16th wing sheeting, but I might consider sheeting the fuse with 3/32" since strip planking can lead to sanding if you arent spot on the money with the planks.

Nice piece in ModelAviation this month on this plane... What's the word on converting this model to an F.8 single-seater version? Is the fuselage the right shape for this mod?

I agree on the planking and will consider 3/32 also, I like to sand so that should end up at 1/16+- after sanding.

TB

Yes the fuselage shape is correct for building a single seater F.8 Meteor. Only the canopy would have to be scratch built. I have the plans and they look very good. .

I am also wanting to do the F-8 and have been looking at some of the ARF replacement canopy for some similar jets. I should be able to find one close enough that it will work, should cost under $15 well worth it being I am not setup to make my own.

TB

My kit came yesterday, it looks really good, very clean and the wood looks to be high quality. The delivery is prompt, one week! The pieces fall right out, no need to cut them out like some of the big box kit makers. I am accumulating all my building supplies and gear (fans and retracts) before I start building.

Here is s list of wood required to complete the kit.

(20) 1/6"x4"x36" balsa
(3) 1/32x4x36" balsa
(1) 1/8"x3"x36" balsa
(4) 1/8" x1/4"x36"
(3) 1/8"x 1/2"x 36" spruce
(2) 1/8"x1/4"x36" spruce
(2) 1/16"x1/4"x24" Basewood
(1) 1/16" x 1/2"x24" Basewood
(2) 9"x24" plastic for fan
(2) 1"x1"x8" balsa blocks
1/64 plywood

I will be using a carbon fiber rod for the elevator and ruder.

Servos I'm using will be :

HS- 65 on ailerons (and flaps if I do split flaps).
HS- 85 on ruder and elevator.

Retracts will be 60 - 120 Tricycle Electric Retracts by E-flite

I will be playing around with different struts to see what will work best. I am also considering doing rotating retracts.

I may do the F-8, I have a few canopy options to play with.

Fans are the mini mega 16/20/2 with two 80a controllers, on two 4s 5000. I will be using a 2000 Nmh 4.8v battery for receiver.

As of now I'm planing on UltraCote for covering, want to keep it light and simple.

TB

Here are some pics of the kit wood.</p>

I guess that thing in photo 1 that looks like a prop, isn't. LOL
Looking forward to following this one.
Al

You had me worried, I thought I might have uploaded a pic of one of my other planes, no its the cross for the stab and fin! I'm getting pumped to build this bird.

TB

Well I almost have everything I need to start building. Finally got all my wood, carbon fiber strips and tubes. I am using the HET 6904 fan. I will use the HET 75a ESC that come with the motor fan combo, half the weight as the CC ice 100. My landing gear should be here this week, using the E-Flight 60-120 and will try and make my own struts to fit the small confines in the wing. Servos are here and I just need to get some Sig glue for planking, once it get going there is no stopping so I want everything here before I start.

I still haven't decided on covering yet. I want to keep her as light as possible. Mylar would be the easiest and lightest. But I haven't ruled out glassing and painting. It is hard in the confines of a small apartment, but I am considering using an air brush and using acrylic paint with no over spray and fumes, it is possible.

Things like gear doors will be decided during construction, do them or not! I am also toying with a sliding canopy, not sure there's room for a cockpit thought.

I should start building next week and I'm shooting for a March maiden.

TB

Have you thought about dope and tissue? It is very light, and makes for a very nice finish. I have read where some guys have used WBPU to attach and fill the tissue. That would be fume free for you. Dope is NOT fume free, but it makes you not care!!!![&:]

The 60-120 sized retracts are going to be huge. The 15-25 size are good to 7 pounds. The 25-46 size are good to 9 pounds. The plane should weigh less than 7 lbs according to TNJ Models. The 15-25 size retracts hold up fine on the HABU 32 which weighs just over 7 lbs. I'm interested in the plane as well. Wouldn't mind an earlier mk canopy.

<div style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt">Got started this weekend. The stab is all done, just need to sheet the bottom fin.
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt">The stab does not sit flat so I used shims to aid the process.<div style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt">Yes in my excitement of starting this beauty I glued the end pieces in the stab prematurely, but it worked out ok. I tried to do the scale hinge line but the elevator is too small for hinge points so I am doing a tape hinge similar to the CMP T-45

<div style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt"> made up my torque rod and fitted it at the top hinge line, works good.</div></div></div></div>

<div style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt">I added a piece of 2mil carbon fiber to the fin to strengthen it up. Mostly because I&rsquo;m afraid of breaking it off during transport.

<div style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt">I got the wing ends done and the ailerons. I am doing a closed scale hinge on the ailerons so I added some balsa to the LE and a hard point for my control horn. I like the design that Jim made for this kit but I want to use the Sullivan horn.<div style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt">Started the center section, the spars and the ribs. I double checked everything, marked it and still screwed up. Put the one with the LG hole on first. Just needed to cut a new hole. The landing gear mount is missing a tab so you need to cut one in.</div></div></div>

<div style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt">Wing</div><div style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt">So I got the wing pretty much together. I kind of do it my own way so it my look like I&rsquo;m out of sequence.</div><div style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt">First I framed up the center section with the front and back spars. Then I sheathed the bottom, cleaned it up and rough sanded it. Next I attached the outer wings, 30 min epoxy overnight. Then I sheathed the bottom, trimmed and sanded. The ailerons are all done and ready for the hinge point to be drilled.</div><div style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt">I did the servo cut out like this. First I glue in the LE sheathing, I&rsquo;m using 4&rdquo; and 6&rdquo; 1/6 balsa.</div><div style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt">I cut the center section of balsa to fit. I tape it in place then screw the servo hatch screws threw the inside of the balsa. I then turn the wing over and place the servo hatch over the holes and screw it down. Then I trace it out. I remove screws and the balsa sheet. Then I screw the hatch back onto the balsa ad cut around it with a fresh blade, sand and fit the hatch, easy as pie!</div>

<div style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt">The wing is very well designed and it is very strong. I found only one miss cut part. The landing gear mounts needs to be cut to fit R3. There is a slot in R3 but no tab on the mount so I just cut a tab into the mount and it fits great. The plans has one typo as it tells you to use 1/8x1/2 for the front and back spar, but the drawings show the correct 1/8x1/4 for the rear spar but it is noted as 1/8x1/2. Jim knows about this and may change it for any new plans going out, not a big deal. The material list is missing the 1/4x1/4 balsa and the balsa for the LE. All in all the plans are great and the wood cutting is very good.</div><div style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt"></div><div style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt">Next I will fit the fans and finish the wing.</div><div style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt"></div><div style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt">TB</div>

<div style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt">Wing</div><div style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt"></div><div style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt">Well The wing is coming together nicely. I ran my servo leads in and routed them threw the rear spar. You need to cut a hole in the rib where the wire exists the spar. I also threaded all my wires for the motors in, no need to cut any holes.

<div style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt">I installed some blocks for the fan mounts, also I did some reinforcing of the retract mount. Retracts are all fitted for now. I will drill them out once the nacelle is planked. I am not sure what I will do with the gear, and I&rsquo;m leaning to not do gear doors, too much to go wrong for a day to day flying model.</div>
TB</div>

<div style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt">Hinge pockets</div><div style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt"> I prepped and installed the hinge pocket on the wing doing my standard carbon fiber pocket. Just round off the aileron, I use a piece of 3/4" and 1" PVC that I ripped in half with some sticker sand paper. I start with 2 mill carbon fiber. Steps: 1. I take a piece of wax paper and put it between the wing and a piece of scrap balsa sheeting (1/16) then I clamp it to the wing. 2. I cut a piece of CF and lay it in up agents the TE of the aileron pocket. 3. I the clamp it down to the scrap balsa and glue it in with thin CA. 4. I use a 1/16x1/16 balsa strip and glue it in up agents the TE and on the CF. I don’t clamp this, just use a rod to hold it in place as you glue it in. that’s it, now you have a nice and tight hinge pocket. I sand it flush with the end of the wing then glue in the wing tip block.</div><div style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt"> </div>

<div style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt">I got all the ribs in for the nacelle. I am using 1/64 birch ply for my duct work. I fitted the inlet and it passes about a &frac14;&rsquo; of MS1 for the fan to fit over. Once she is all lined up and trimmed for a tight fit I glued it in with thin CA and med CA. she is solid as a rock. N2 and N1 glued in. Next mount the fans and creat the exit tub.


<div style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt">Here is the aileron sanded round ready for hinges.</div></div>

Looking good, but I`m wondering, your thrust tube exit looks large for the fan you are using. Is it going to remain like that or is their an added part that will reduce it?

I haven't installed the thrust tube yet. It looks like it will be about 55mm at the exit.

TB