OFFICAL PEDE THREAD
#1576
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RE: OFFICAL PEDE THREAD
ORIGINAL: DTAK
and dan, is your body lowered? it looks like it is, and if it is, how did you get it that way? thanks so much.
and dan, is your body lowered? it looks like it is, and if it is, how did you get it that way? thanks so much.
To lower the front: I cut a section out of each body post and ran screws up from underneath to re-attach.
The rear body mount is easy to lower: just take the four screws out and move it down, then run two screws through the upper holes on the body mount through the lower holes in the shock tower.
Well that's how I did it. Good luck.[8D]
JTsimaras-- lol the body is great, I like that air intake! Good job on the bumpers, those look good!
Here are some pics of my dad's bumpers.
#1577
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RE: OFFICAL PEDE THREAD
Speaking of wacky bodies, my kids each have a Stampede and have been begging for me to get a new "wacky" body. They have expressed a great interest in a VW Beetle style body. Does anyone know if a body like this exists that will fit a Stampede? I did see two different VW Beetle bodies at Towerhobbies but I have no idea if they are a good fit or not. Comments as well as links would be appreciated. Thanks.
This is my first post...hope I put it in the right place.
This is my first post...hope I put it in the right place.
#1578
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RE: OFFICAL PEDE THREAD
HPI makes a VW bug body for their (discontinued) HPI electric MT. I think you can still get the body though. It's 1/10th scale and made to fit a stadium truck so I'm sure you can get it on a Pede.
DTAK, well I ordered the new diff gear because I stripped all the teeth off my old one with this new motor. I bought the tranny case because the motor mount screws were starting to chew it up since I change motors and pinions so often. I got the steel output yokes and Traxxas street sport axles because they replace the stock plastic ones. I'm gonna give the stock slider axles another chance with these new parts and see how they hold up. I got the Ofna servo saver because it is more heavy duty then the stock one. Every time I would hit something with the stock servo saver, I would have to readjust my trim setting's. I have been running a red Ofna servo saver forever, and now I want the blue one. Oh and you know what the shocks are for. I just got them for looks.
And I did lower my body just how Gunnut said. Mine is just a little bit lower then his. I cut all 4 post off mine and reinstalled them with screws through the bottom.
DTAK, well I ordered the new diff gear because I stripped all the teeth off my old one with this new motor. I bought the tranny case because the motor mount screws were starting to chew it up since I change motors and pinions so often. I got the steel output yokes and Traxxas street sport axles because they replace the stock plastic ones. I'm gonna give the stock slider axles another chance with these new parts and see how they hold up. I got the Ofna servo saver because it is more heavy duty then the stock one. Every time I would hit something with the stock servo saver, I would have to readjust my trim setting's. I have been running a red Ofna servo saver forever, and now I want the blue one. Oh and you know what the shocks are for. I just got them for looks.
And I did lower my body just how Gunnut said. Mine is just a little bit lower then his. I cut all 4 post off mine and reinstalled them with screws through the bottom.
#1579
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RE: OFFICAL PEDE THREAD
After spending about 1/2 a day on trying to figure out where and how to make a bellcrank steering setup on my Pede, I just about come to the conclusion that it is not possible.
The stock Traxxas Rustler kit is just too big, and the Duratrax blue aluminum kit just takes up too much room. I might still try again later though.
Edit: Here is my first RC Crawler vid if you guys are interested in it.
[link=http://www.tilsonmedia.com/rock.mpg]http://www.tilsonmedia.com/rock.mpg[/link]
The stock Traxxas Rustler kit is just too big, and the Duratrax blue aluminum kit just takes up too much room. I might still try again later though.
Edit: Here is my first RC Crawler vid if you guys are interested in it.
[link=http://www.tilsonmedia.com/rock.mpg]http://www.tilsonmedia.com/rock.mpg[/link]
#1581
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RE: OFFICAL PEDE THREAD
also guys, the mashers on dan's pede look big and tall. are these bigger than stock tires? and what surfaces do they do well on? thanks guys.
#1582
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RE: OFFICAL PEDE THREAD
got my rims and mashers on now finaly. gettn ready to paint my body.
my dad runs a 1/6scale nascar he got from wal-mart, it is still super fast, till i use as a ramp for my 'pede[>:][8D]
that nic e low long hood made it really easy.
my dad runs a 1/6scale nascar he got from wal-mart, it is still super fast, till i use as a ramp for my 'pede[>:][8D]
that nic e low long hood made it really easy.
#1583
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RE: OFFICAL PEDE THREAD
ORIGINAL: DTAK
also guys, the mashers on dan's pede look big and tall. are these bigger than stock tires? and what surfaces do they do well on? thanks guys.
also guys, the mashers on dan's pede look big and tall. are these bigger than stock tires? and what surfaces do they do well on? thanks guys.
#1584
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RE: OFFICAL PEDE THREAD
ORIGINAL: f150dan
Yea, the Masher 2K's are a little bit bigger then the stock tires. And I haven't really found a surface these tires don't do well on. Get them, you will like them.
ORIGINAL: DTAK
also guys, the mashers on dan's pede look big and tall. are these bigger than stock tires? and what surfaces do they do well on? thanks guys.
also guys, the mashers on dan's pede look big and tall. are these bigger than stock tires? and what surfaces do they do well on? thanks guys.
BTW... F150dan-- great video. Makes me want to build a crawler []-- The last thing I need is another car. But it will happen sooner or later[8D]. Anyways, good job on the vid! [sm=thumbup.gif]
#1585
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RE: OFFICAL PEDE THREAD
ORIGINAL: gunnut
BTW... F150dan-- great video. Makes me want to build a crawler []-- The last thing I need is another car. But it will happen sooner or later[8D]. Anyways, good job on the vid! [sm=thumbup.gif]
BTW... F150dan-- great video. Makes me want to build a crawler []-- The last thing I need is another car. But it will happen sooner or later[8D]. Anyways, good job on the vid! [sm=thumbup.gif]
#1586
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RE: OFFICAL PEDE THREAD
gunnut - I have been thinking of lowering the body posts on my truck like you did, at least in the rear. So you haven't had any durability issues with only 2 screws supporting the rear body posts?
#1587
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RE: OFFICAL PEDE THREAD
Hey guys, my bearing carriers and other stuff came! I am currently trying to install the RPM carriers, but I'm having trouble removing the old ones. There are these weird clips on the side of them, and they won't come off. I believe they are called "E-clips". Well, the E apparently doesn't stand for easy lol. Should I just pry them off?
EDIT: I think they are on the parts called Kingpins/suspension pins. Still can't get them off though.
EDIT: I think they are on the parts called Kingpins/suspension pins. Still can't get them off though.
#1588
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RE: OFFICAL PEDE THREAD
i had a problem with my e-pins or whatever when i put on my bearing carriers to, i found a needle nose plier worked good gettn them both off and back on.
#1589
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RE: OFFICAL PEDE THREAD
Extremely small pair of needle nose pliers work best, just grab the back part of the clip and yank, just make sure not to loosen your grip or the e-clip will go bye-bye.
If you don't have any needle nose pliers get two small flathead screwdrivers, and push on the two open sides of the e-clip (HOWEVER: This will cause the clip to fly off the other side, so unless you have something there like a wall or blanket to stop the e-clip from scoring a touchdown on the other side of the room, do not use this method; even if it lands on a blanket, they are super small and extremely hard to find if you don't know where it landed so I do not suggest this method).
Good luck.
If you don't have any needle nose pliers get two small flathead screwdrivers, and push on the two open sides of the e-clip (HOWEVER: This will cause the clip to fly off the other side, so unless you have something there like a wall or blanket to stop the e-clip from scoring a touchdown on the other side of the room, do not use this method; even if it lands on a blanket, they are super small and extremely hard to find if you don't know where it landed so I do not suggest this method).
Good luck.
#1590
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RE: OFFICAL PEDE THREAD
dan, is there anywhere i can get like a tutorial of how to lower the stampede body, im so confused. do you just like dremel off the post except for two holes? or what do you do? thanks.
#1591
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RE: OFFICAL PEDE THREAD
I use a small long needle nose pliers. put one side of the pliers up against the shaft. With the other side of the pliers, bridge the open side of the "e-clip". then squeeze the e-clip open so you can easily yank it off.
#1592
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RE: OFFICAL PEDE THREAD
Thanks! The needle nose pliers worked pretty well. Got all the bearings installed now. I also put in the RPM bumper and small heatsink. I'm about to go and give it a test run. I'll tell you guys how it goes!
#1593
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RE: OFFICAL PEDE THREAD
Bought my first pede'
This is my third RC. Some kid sold it to me for 40bux. He ran it like 30mins.
Not as well built as my LOSI trucks (LST2, XXX-T Brushless 5.5r) but seems fun for messing around =)
What should I do with it? Give me some advice, required upgrades, etc.
This is my third RC. Some kid sold it to me for 40bux. He ran it like 30mins.
Not as well built as my LOSI trucks (LST2, XXX-T Brushless 5.5r) but seems fun for messing around =)
What should I do with it? Give me some advice, required upgrades, etc.
#1594
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RE: OFFICAL PEDE THREAD
The ball bearings are working great! Did a speed trial, and I averaged about 18.5mph! Before it averaged 15.5! I'm so happy I also let my dad drive it for a little bit. All I can say is that its a good thing I have the RPM bumper lol.
And, hunter306, $40 is an amazing price! I reccomend Bearing carriers and 5x11 bearings. They have turned out great for me. The RPM front bumper is another thing that should prove nice.
And, hunter306, $40 is an amazing price! I reccomend Bearing carriers and 5x11 bearings. They have turned out great for me. The RPM front bumper is another thing that should prove nice.
#1596
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RE: OFFICAL PEDE THREAD
also guys, im just curious how fast i will be hitting with my 2 star and a gp3700 7 cell? i am hoping 40, but im not sure. thanks guys.,
#1597
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RE: OFFICAL PEDE THREAD
DTAK, you should be very close to 40mph with that setup if not more. Whatever it is, you won't be dissappointed. I should get all my new parts in today or tomorrow for my Pede. And I'll get you a tutorial on lowering body post ASAP.
Oh yea, when I was messing around with the steering of my truck, I noticed the front shock tower was cracked.[] It must have been from all those wrecks in that last video of mine.
Oh yea, when I was messing around with the steering of my truck, I noticed the front shock tower was cracked.[] It must have been from all those wrecks in that last video of mine.
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RE: OFFICAL PEDE THREAD
dan, thanks for the help and can't wait to see the tutorial. also, do you have the high speed run video yet? thanks for all your help, and just curious, does anyone have instant messanger who is running a pede, i would love to chat. mine is akpupsthicky23, so feel free to send me a message. thanks guys.
#1599
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RE: OFFICAL PEDE THREAD
To lower body post on a Stampede. (Remember, be careful with this and do some measuring to keep your body level on the truck. Also, I have pictured a stock rear body post in a few pics, but I don't have a stock front body post so the one in the pics has already been lowered.)
First, we will start off with the rear body post. You can do this 2 different ways or both ways combined (what I did).
1. You can pull out the 4 screws that hold the rear body post to the shock tower, and reinstall 2 screws only. You put the screws in the top holes of the body mount, and thread them into the lower hole's in the shock tower. (These are pics of what it should look like after you do this)
2. If that is not low enough for you, you can cut the body post off of the body mount. Make sure to make a good flush cut.
Stock rear body mount
Here is where to cut the body post at
After you cut the body post off the body mount even and flush, cut the bottom of the body post off however much you want to shorten it. Then set it in place on the body mount and drill a small hole through both of them. (make the hole slightly smaller then the screws you plan to use so they can thread together.
Drill hole here
Then install and tighten down the screw here
Here is what it should look like when you are finished
Then for the front body mount, You cut the body post off flush with the body mount the same way as you do the rear.
Then cut off the bottom of the body post to whatever length you want. The more you cut off, the lower your body will be.
Then place the body post back on the body mount and drill a small hole through both of them the same way you did the rear.
Here is what it should look like when you are finished
If you just want to lower the body about 1/2 (0.5) inches, the just move the rear body post down to the lower holes in the shock tower like I explained earlier, and cut about 1/2 inch off the front body post. Then drill and reinstall them. I wanted to go lower them that, so I cut about 3/4 inch off the front body post. The mounting trick will give you about 1/2 inch in the rear, so I only cut 1/4 inch off the rear body post and that kept the body level.
I don't know if my little tutorial helped anyone or not, but this isn't really hard at all to do and it will make your truck look so much better.
First, we will start off with the rear body post. You can do this 2 different ways or both ways combined (what I did).
1. You can pull out the 4 screws that hold the rear body post to the shock tower, and reinstall 2 screws only. You put the screws in the top holes of the body mount, and thread them into the lower hole's in the shock tower. (These are pics of what it should look like after you do this)
2. If that is not low enough for you, you can cut the body post off of the body mount. Make sure to make a good flush cut.
Stock rear body mount
Here is where to cut the body post at
After you cut the body post off the body mount even and flush, cut the bottom of the body post off however much you want to shorten it. Then set it in place on the body mount and drill a small hole through both of them. (make the hole slightly smaller then the screws you plan to use so they can thread together.
Drill hole here
Then install and tighten down the screw here
Here is what it should look like when you are finished
Then for the front body mount, You cut the body post off flush with the body mount the same way as you do the rear.
Then cut off the bottom of the body post to whatever length you want. The more you cut off, the lower your body will be.
Then place the body post back on the body mount and drill a small hole through both of them the same way you did the rear.
Here is what it should look like when you are finished
If you just want to lower the body about 1/2 (0.5) inches, the just move the rear body post down to the lower holes in the shock tower like I explained earlier, and cut about 1/2 inch off the front body post. Then drill and reinstall them. I wanted to go lower them that, so I cut about 3/4 inch off the front body post. The mounting trick will give you about 1/2 inch in the rear, so I only cut 1/4 inch off the rear body post and that kept the body level.
I don't know if my little tutorial helped anyone or not, but this isn't really hard at all to do and it will make your truck look so much better.