Props4ever

Another thing i want to make clear to all on here that, i am the only one who is doing all the physical work on this and S Connie model, this is for those few who always think different then reality is, i seek help/guidance and advise form you guys on forums where and when needed but all the physical work and all the planning work on this model is done by myself....

invertmast

My Feedback: (23)

Yea i'm the only one doing all the Cad design, drawings, planning, layups and construction on the F-14... not to mention other "projects" that aren't being seen (oh, not to mention working 60+ hour weeks and being home Maybe 1 or 2 days a week, along with all the house "chores") so i know what ya mean!


the pacer stuff is "ok" for glassing a balsa structure, but i have never had that stuff not turn out "gummy" and it is always very pliable. (I have no doubt 2 layers of 2oz cloth would be no stronger than 1/16" balsa) A true laminating resin will make that wing skin much stiffer. Put some peel-ply on one side of the skin and you'll have a ready to bond surface (after you remove the peel-ply) which will save you a ton of sanding time, and it will help ensure a more uniform resin distribution in the cloth.

Props4ever

Right wing already have new trailing edge spar and both ribs installed, took off strip LE and replaced it with dowel leading edge, man it only took less then 2 hrs to modify this wing Vs other other one took days!......

Props4ever

After the wing, while i'm waiting for my dremel's battery to recharge, i pulled out main spar and one of the trailing edge spars to laminate them with fibreglass, while i was doing this, i thought this is perfect time to make nacelle's formers that will pick up the edf units, so made first one, then how about i make sub spars that will act as cradles of the edf units, this way i will make short hard wood edf mounts to bolt on the edf's to and then 2nd set of formers will act as edf cradles also.....

Props4ever

First of the 2 edf's installed in the nacelle former, then this assembly was dry fitted on the wing's bottom at the main spar's location. Now this sub-spar will be butt joined on the back side of the main spar at this location. In the side vies shot, you will notice, edf's are pointing down by -1 degree, this is how it's on actual Concordes, this pitch down angle helps lift nose and long fuselage faster by pointing thrust at an "UP" angle.....Since this is 12th scale model with 11 of the fuselage infront of these edf's is sensible to mount this on scale angle....

Props4ever

Not much as compared to yesterday's progress but i laminated nacelle formers and the 2 spars on both sides, these will turn out really nice once flash is trimmed off and parts are cleaned.

If you guys need energy boost then try out what i take, i tell you this stuff is just amazing and gives you a punch with few mins of taking it and last for many hours in you, plus it all natural, no chemicals in it....

Props4ever

Today's update, actually evening...lol.

It took me 2.5hrs to clean all the access fibre flash from the laminated parts that were laminated last night, plus few sports of certain parts didn't laminated properly so med CA did it's magic there. Both spars are now installed in the wing, also notched and installed the nacelle former. I noticed that only 2 of the ribs are picking up the nacelle former that is butt joined to the main spar, i'm going to add 1" extensions on both ends so this way 4 ribs will pick up the nacelle former and load and vibration from edfs will be distributed evenly....





WHY are we getting those pesky errors AGAIN when uploading few picture together!!!!
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There is a problem with the resource you are looking for, and it cannot be displayed.

Props4ever

Nacelle formers were done lamination earlier today, then in afternoon/evening hrs i started to make the holes/round cut outs for the edf units , this didn't fly good in the beginning, then went and got myself a compass, made a slit on the back of it's pencil, glued blade on it, tried out to make the round cut easier but , it was anything then easier, so after making first cut out, used it as template to cut other 3 round cut outs with new blade on x-acto knife and my hand made drum sander....Well here is the result.....

invertmast

My Feedback: (23)

Are those 70mm units?

Props4ever

90MM Freewing edfs with 1750 KV motors...producing over 5lbs of thrust each on 6S 5000Mah Lipos

Props4ever

Dry fitted all four EDF units in there cradles that i finished making this afternoon. I have marked the locator sharpie marks where 1/4" x 1/4" balsa stocks will be mounted to make 2 of these cradles into one unit/frame work. I will make lite ply mounts to mount edf units in this frame so they will be secured properly.

Props4ever

Ok Thomas, went to my local composites shop, they don't have the resin that you mentioned but theses are what they have and recommended for making these skins as structural part....

System 3 resin
MVS resin
Aeropoxy resins

Above 3 types comes with 3 speed hardeners "Fast, Medium and slow curing ones"

4th choice is "West Systems resin but due to it's thicker viscosity they didn't recommended that one for my applications.

Pint kits of above 3 types is between $45 and $55 bucks and Gallon is $140-$160 bucks
Obviously West systems gallon is far more expansive.

So what would you suggest as i think buying a gallon would be good way since fuselage will be double glassed also, both from outside and inside...

Props4ever

Working on the wing of Concorde once again, had to make another newer trailing edge spars to get right washout angles at the wingtips. Wing tip ribs had to be thickened so those were also made again. Right engine cradle is under assembling at this time. Soon will start on making under slung engine nacelles for both sides.

Props4ever

Wash out angle question:

I'm having bit hard time getting actual -12.5 degree of wash out angles at the wing tips, presently i'm at -8 degrees comfortably after making newer trailing edge spar with light curve on outer tip. What should i do about it, i'm sure if i twist the wing a bit and ever so slightly pull up the tips of the spar, i can get very close to scale wash out angle but then it's bit of manual twist in the wing through pressuring it.....

Any ideas or should i leave it at -8 degrees and not worry about it?. I just hopie airplane won't tip stall if i brought her at + 8 degrees on approach and pull up its nose bit more as i flair it juss before touching down.....

Props4ever

Both wings are presently joined togeter with claps on 2x4 stud with drawings under it on top of the table. have been measuring all the spar tip points from one side to another to make sure both sides are same. where adjust meant is needed, that area is getting adjusted accordingly.
All 4 edfs were installed in there cradles a man does wings become heavy instantly....lol

if i get all nice n square, i will start glueing wings together n yes this model will have -12 degrees of washout!...

Props4ever

Well guys both wings are built as i type this post, all joints glued together and man i had to be quick while doing spar or rib joints as CA glue is fast curing even at medium speed!!....both edf cradles are on the wings with all 4 edf's in them. I will do weight test later tonite....

I did had couple close calls as few notches were given hard time at wrong time, but i got it all done perfectly...

pics to follow soon...

Props4ever

Pictures from yesterday's progress....

I also added scale "Kink" on both wings, this was done according to actual drawings of the aircraft to make sure angles were exact as on actual aircrafts. There are few gradual angle changes on this wing planform that a lot of people dosen't know about, i'm trying to add all of on this model's wing.

Next major step is to get the resin and start making fibreglass sheets to be cut into skin panels of the wings.

Props4ever

If you guys remember at the initial time of wing builds, I first chose to use 3/32" balsa sheeting to make all the ribs including root ribs but after lil while into the build disregarded balsa root ribs and re-selected lite ply for the root ribs which indeed left wing has, well since i was out of enough ply back then to make both ribs, i had kept one of the 2 balsa ribs aside and after both wing frames were completed night before last night, i didn't really like flexing on the right wing at the root due to being balsa one, so this spare rib came in handy as I set wing on it's root on the building table and epoxied on that spare rib on this wing root as doubler, this also reinforced the root rib and it's strength and slightly extra thickness on the root, doesn't really change the wing's diementions span wise either...

Eddie P

My Feedback: (4)

Loving all the detail shots here with the wing build. Great work being true to form on the wing as well!

Props4ever

Thanks EddieP, i'm certain guys willing to make more scale models of this marvellous aircraft can use these details to make there models better.

Props4ever

Fuselage mold question...

Since this is 17 long fuselage and i will be making kits to sell, how many sections should it be to make it's molds, keeping in consideration that if anyone needs any sections replaced due to damage or crash could just get section to rebuild his model. Presently it's on 4 large sections including nose and visor, if nose and visor are separated to make there own molds, well then it's 6 pce fuselage presently.

I want to use this fuselage for my prototype flying as well as use as plug afterwards to make molds on it.

Wings and fin will be 2pcs molds each and nacelles could 1pc or 2pcs also.....


Thomas any suggestions or others who does commercial molds for giant model aircrafts...


Plus what other things should be considered or i should consider while making commercial kits of this beast!....

Samedayservice

looking good

Viper1GJ

My Feedback: (20)

Props4ever,

Great thread. I have been reading since the start. I am interested in your plans to skin the open structure with pre-cured fiberglass sheets. Have you found a glue to put it on with yet?

Can you describe in more detail how you are making the 4x8 sheets of fiberglass wing skin. I have been wanting to learn how to produce pre-cured fiberglass sheets similar to yours that can be used for skinning open structures or over foam. I understand you are using 2 layers of 2oz glass. What are you laying it up on? Are you laying the weave on a 45 degree bias or just parallel weaves? Are you vac bagging it or using weights? Could you post much detail as possible and photos if you can of how you do it.

Thanks for more info

Gary

Props4ever

Thanks Viper1GJ for the compliments on the build.

As for how i make my fibreglass skin panels, it is posted in post numbers 68, 69 and 70 on page 3 of this thread, as for the direction of the cloth laid, i do it on 45 degrees bias. No vacuum bagging, i do lay up in between 2 pieces of glass, so glass sheet on top acts as flattening surface as well as it weigh's down on the fibreglass sheet in curing process. I also use either wax paper or use honey wax as mold release agent so wet resin layup doesn't stick on the glasses surface. Let resin cure over night or even couple days between the glass sheets and then remove it and you'll get perfectly smooth even fibreglass sheet in the end.

Actually instead of 2oz double layer, i will be going to either 3oz or 4oz double layers as 2oz double layer become very very thin for this kind of open structure, if it was 60sz to 90sz warbird with less open space in the wing's structure then that would have been different story.....hope this helps, if you need more assistance, let me know.


Sam

Viper1GJ

My Feedback: (20)

Sam,

Thanks for the reply, I saw the photos on post 68-70 but could not tell the process. Your explanation makes it more clear. I have been wanting to make sheets to use over foam cores and some open structures instead of buying G-10 or flight skin type sheets. Much cheaper and can get larger sizes also.

Thanks again for your help.

Gary