RCM Eagle V
#101

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From: wilmington, DE
THE EAGLE 7 is now out... see MAN this month's issue, you can build several versions of it including thrust vectoring and/or canards. I LOVE the way my EAGLE V flies and I'm sure that the 7 is even better!!! the designer of this plane is really good!!!!
#102

geh3
Well, it does not look like it : http://www.modelairplanenews.com/ma/...?issueID=m0704
Are you talking about the May issue ?
Well, it does not look like it : http://www.modelairplanenews.com/ma/...?issueID=m0704
Are you talking about the May issue ?
#107

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From: wilmington, DE
Are you going to build one?
HINT: order a version V from Precision cut kits, then you will have the version V wings and can build the version 7 wings and use then unterchanbeably, also you will have most of the fuse parts except for the forward section that is longer on the 7, the longer nose is a MUST to get proper balance
Fie Bao makes an almost 100% ARF version of the Version V, check the Digitecturbines website
HINT: order a version V from Precision cut kits, then you will have the version V wings and can build the version 7 wings and use then unterchanbeably, also you will have most of the fuse parts except for the forward section that is longer on the 7, the longer nose is a MUST to get proper balance
Fie Bao makes an almost 100% ARF version of the Version V, check the Digitecturbines website
#108
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From: Raceland,
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Hello all:
I am going to booksamillion tomarrow and get MAN june issue, they have it in stock. Geh, any idea how long will it take to get the plans? Are you going to trace the plans for templets. I haven't built from plans in awhile. Suggestions? Thanks.
I am going to booksamillion tomarrow and get MAN june issue, they have it in stock. Geh, any idea how long will it take to get the plans? Are you going to trace the plans for templets. I haven't built from plans in awhile. Suggestions? Thanks.
#109

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From: wilmington, DE
What I do is take the original plans set to a local copy place and make 1 or 2 copies. Then I cut out the parts that are lite ply and tape them to the ply and start cutting. It took be a week or two of cutting to get all of the parts for the V5 working several hours an eve. I did some modifications however and I had to modify some parts as I went, my modifications were adding the elevator servos IN the stab itself, adding rudders, I put the retract air tanks in the wings etc ( you can see these in my gallery) THEN when I got done and went to balance, I had to cut the nose off and add 5" so I could move my batteries further forward ( I HATE to add lead). The V7 already has a longer nose so this won't be an issue for you.
Another thing you might consider is to purchase a v5 kit from Precision Cut Kits. Then you wull have almost everything you will need ALREADY CUT except you will have to modify the front fuse sections to make the longer nose and you will have to build the v7 wings from the plans BUT you will have bith wing types so you can fly either, The v5 is a really fun plane and looks great in the air!
Another thing you might consider is to purchase a v5 kit from Precision Cut Kits. Then you wull have almost everything you will need ALREADY CUT except you will have to modify the front fuse sections to make the longer nose and you will have to build the v7 wings from the plans BUT you will have bith wing types so you can fly either, The v5 is a really fun plane and looks great in the air!
#110

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From: Columbus,
IN
Geh3,
I've got all my pieces cut out and have started (finally) building. I got some hitec thin wing servos and have the mounts in the stab, my question is where did you put the servo lead. If I pull the lead from the servo into the vertical stabs the connection is right in the middle. Did you wad the wire up in the small servo cavity so the connection is in there?
Thanks again for the help.
Martin
I've got all my pieces cut out and have started (finally) building. I got some hitec thin wing servos and have the mounts in the stab, my question is where did you put the servo lead. If I pull the lead from the servo into the vertical stabs the connection is right in the middle. Did you wad the wire up in the small servo cavity so the connection is in there?
Thanks again for the help.
Martin
#111

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From: wilmington, DE
I made a hollow area in the rudder just below where the stab connects and made the connection to a 24" extension there. This extension is then buried in the rudder, and into the boom. I made a channel with a dremel tool. I believe you can see some of this in my pics in my gallery. The extension then exits inside the wing root and goes forward to my rudder servos.
#113
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From: Raceland,
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I just recieved my plans in the mail. I am ready to start with my cutting, which could take a while. Geh, what did you use for the 1/8 ply? a door skin? Your pics are a great help. Thanks
#114

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From: wilmington, DE
I just got my MAN EAGLE 7 plans WOW very innovative.. swept forward wings, canards AND thrust vectoring. This plane will really bend the sky! Based on the excellent flying characteristics of the Ver5.0, this one should be even better. The ver 5.0 is however an awsome flyer as well..
#118

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From: wilmington, DE
I have started a posting on the EAGLE 7...not building yet
I do have a plans set but it requires many hours of cutting out parts before I can build
I won't start building intil the fall season probably
all postings from me about the EAGLE 7 WILL BE ON THE NEW THREAD
However if you look at my gallery (geh3) you can see a fairly detailed picture history of the EAGLE 5... the EAGLE 7 will be similar except for the longer fuse, the wing style and the canards
I do have a plans set but it requires many hours of cutting out parts before I can build
I won't start building intil the fall season probably
all postings from me about the EAGLE 7 WILL BE ON THE NEW THREAD
However if you look at my gallery (geh3) you can see a fairly detailed picture history of the EAGLE 5... the EAGLE 7 will be similar except for the longer fuse, the wing style and the canards
#119

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From: Columbus,
IN
Quick question for you George,
i'm working on my fuselage main section and am contemplating making it all one piece. I was wondering if you would recommend making the whole plane as one piece. I know I don't want the fuse as two pieces, but not sure about the wings. I do have a large truck to transport so that's not an issue. Just wondering what your thoughts are about the one piece plane. Also what fuel tank did you use. I 'm using a 50 oz dubro. Just had to cut out the formers a little and it's a whole bunch shorter than the one recommended in the instructions.
Thanks again,
Martin
i'm working on my fuselage main section and am contemplating making it all one piece. I was wondering if you would recommend making the whole plane as one piece. I know I don't want the fuse as two pieces, but not sure about the wings. I do have a large truck to transport so that's not an issue. Just wondering what your thoughts are about the one piece plane. Also what fuel tank did you use. I 'm using a 50 oz dubro. Just had to cut out the formers a little and it's a whole bunch shorter than the one recommended in the instructions.
Thanks again,
Martin
#120

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From: wilmington, DE
Yes I built mine in one piece, I figured it would be stronger that way and I transport it in a truck with a 72" bed with a cap on it with no problems. If you look at the pictures in my gallery you can sort of see my building sequence. For the fuel tank, I got a COMP-ARF rookie unit and cut it down to fit the fuse. You can also use a PET soda bottle and there are several places that sell soda bottle adapters for the fuel and vent lines. Whatever tank you use be SURE to invest in a BVM UAT which is a hopper tank in it with a paper sort of bladder that prevents air from getting to your turbine. That stops unwanted flamouts as long as you dont fly out of fuel. I get 10-11 ,in flights with mine. Another source for tanks is:http://www.angelfire.com/wi/jettech/page2.html. Reminder, make the front of your fuse 4-5 " longer than the plans show to achieve balance without having to add lead!
#121

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From: wilmington, DE
AND when you get done, you too can do this>>>>>http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wqa8NJ6v68c
#124

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From: wilmington, DE
OK I figured it out. That black thing is just 1" wide black electricians tape that I was using to keep the tank snuggled back against the former in front of the turbine during the building process. I had the tank in there to make sure it would fit OK and once I glued the turtledeck on I couldn't get it out easily so I just left it in there!
#125

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From: Columbus,
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Aha,
That makes sense. I just came in from the shop. I've got the fuse mostly framed up. Did you use the recommended 5/32 ply for the retract mounts? Seems a little thin to me. What retracts did you use on yours? I've made my own retracts, wheels, and brakes for this thing. Not to mention the engine. This is truly a scratch build plane for me....
Thanks again,
Martin
That makes sense. I just came in from the shop. I've got the fuse mostly framed up. Did you use the recommended 5/32 ply for the retract mounts? Seems a little thin to me. What retracts did you use on yours? I've made my own retracts, wheels, and brakes for this thing. Not to mention the engine. This is truly a scratch build plane for me....
Thanks again,
Martin


