RCM Eagle V
#76
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Raceland,
LA
I am interested in building this model. I have both RCM magazine isuues for building but no plans. Is it possible to get plans still from RCM? Would anyone allow me to copy them? or scan them I have acess to an oversize color scanner. I do like the eagle vII any one have plans for that version?
Thanks
Thanks
#77

My Feedback: (84)
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 1,374
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: wilmington, DE
You can still get the plans from RCM
You can also get a laser cut kit of the V version from PRECISION CUT KITS.. it would be easy to modify this into a VI or VII version!
In the June issue or MAN there will be a contruction article for the Eagle VI and VII
I can tell you that the V version flys very well
The designer is a mechanical engineer who used this model to verify computations for CG
You can also get a laser cut kit of the V version from PRECISION CUT KITS.. it would be easy to modify this into a VI or VII version!
In the June issue or MAN there will be a contruction article for the Eagle VI and VII
I can tell you that the V version flys very well
The designer is a mechanical engineer who used this model to verify computations for CG
#78
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Raceland,
LA
Percison is out at ram sent them an email inquiring a price on laser kit. I don't mind cutting the kit myself from plans. stupid question: what is MAN? is there a website? June isssue of what magazine? I really like the looks of eagle VII and would prefere to build that. I guess I could also scan my rcm mag and enlarge the plans myself.
#80

My Feedback: (84)
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 1,374
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: wilmington, DE
I am using a Wren KIT mw54mk III it runs flawlessly
see this>>>http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wqa8NJ6v68c
see this>>>http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wqa8NJ6v68c
#82
ORIGINAL: tsmith9000
Percison is out at ram sent them an email inquiring a price on laser kit. I don't mind cutting the kit myself from plans. stupid question: what is MAN? is there a website? June isssue of what magazine? I really like the looks of eagle VII and would prefere to build that. I guess I could also scan my rcm mag and enlarge the plans myself.
Percison is out at ram sent them an email inquiring a price on laser kit. I don't mind cutting the kit myself from plans. stupid question: what is MAN? is there a website? June isssue of what magazine? I really like the looks of eagle VII and would prefere to build that. I guess I could also scan my rcm mag and enlarge the plans myself.
ram is WRAM, which is a huge trade show this weekend, I think it is Westchester, New York (but don't hold me to that...).
MAN is Model Airplane News Magazine, which I think is an Airage (?) Publication.
RCM is Radio Control(ed) Modeler....now out of business, though you can still pirchase their plans.
FM is Flying Models Magazine, a Carston's Publication.
MA is Model Aviation....the AMA magazine you get monthly.
The June issue of MAN, FM and MA should be in your hands/on newstands/ in bookstores about the first week of May.
Yup you could blow up the plans, but 1) the quality really stinks (having done just that as a source for a major bashing job).
2) what little you save (if any at all, having just blown up four pages of cad drawings to full size...OUCH!) does NOT encourage the various magazines to purchase plans from designers/builders, which:
3) leaves us with even less to choose from, unless you want to draw your own, or purchase an arf.
Having seen Giancarlo's designs and drawings, I wish mine were as good!
Given the above, and knowing how good his stuff is, I'd wait until the begining of May for the publication, and sit on the plans department at MAN to get you a set the day they are released. Sometimes that is even before the issue hiits the streets.
Greg
#84
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Raceland,
LA
Advice well taken. Do you guys think the Eagle VII is more challenging to fly than the Eagle V? I am not trying to be cheap on the plans I guess a little impatient. Part of my job is scanning and enlarging documents. I work for a company like Kinkos. I think I can wait until May for the new plans. Any more suggestions wuld be great as this would be my first turbine project.
#85

My Feedback: (84)
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 1,374
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: wilmington, DE
I can only speak for tyhe V version, as you can see from the video it flys very well. I believe the VII is just as good if not better since it is claimed to have better low speed characteristics. That will make landings easier etc. The first flight on my V was done by an experienced turbine instructor since I was in the process of getting my AMA required waiver. During the first landing, we observed that the plane needed a little more elevator throw ( + I forgot to switch to high rates). One thing you will learn about jets is that they don't have propwash going over the control surfaces like propeller planes do so you definetly need dual rates, use the high rates for takeoff and landing and lower rates for high speed. I also had my V a little nose heavy and have since move the CG back about .3 inch. The designer if these EAGLE planes is very competent and which ever version you build you will like it. Just get some good help from experienced turbine pilots and be sure to set your turbine up on a test stand and run it a few times so you know how to start it properly etc. My Wren only required setting the propane gas flow back a little as the first few starts produced a lot of flame at the tailpipe before the kerosene started to flow. That was a simple adjustment on the supplied gas flow valve.
#86

My Feedback: (84)
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 1,374
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: wilmington, DE
I forgot something, when you first fly your turbine, note that there is a lag between when you increase the throttle and when the turbine reaches that power setting so don't fly too slow at first especially when turning. Jets are not the kind of planes that you fly lazily along like a light wing loaded 3D plane or a typical glow powered trainer. Before I had my Eagle, I had 2 quite fast electric powered planes that were a good training exercise for the real thing. One of these flew over 120 mph!
Once you get used to your Eagle, flying it slower is OK but do that higher up so you can get back on the throttle if you get into a stall condition, The V version is very forgiving in a stall, it just mushes a little and sinks without dropping a wing.
Once you get used to your Eagle, flying it slower is OK but do that higher up so you can get back on the throttle if you get into a stall condition, The V version is very forgiving in a stall, it just mushes a little and sinks without dropping a wing.
#91

Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 127
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Columbus,
IN
Anyone built theirs and flown with the elevator flex cable as called out in the plans? Just wondering if there's a better way, or should I just go with the design and hope for the best.
Thanks,
Martin
Thanks,
Martin
#92

My Feedback: (84)
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 1,374
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: wilmington, DE
I know of two instances where that design could have been the cause of elevator flutter that caused crashes. When I built mine, I buried two small digital wing servos ( JR) right in the horizontal stab itself and attached them with short, stiff pushrods to ChipHyde horns ( the ones with bearings pressed into them). This necessitated burying extensions in each tail boom but that was easy. This arrangements works very well and I have had 0 flutter at any speed. If you look al my gallery pictures I believe you can see my installation.
The only disadvantage to what I did is it makes it more difficult to balance so I ultimately had to make the nose section 4-5" longer and put my batteries in that section to balance, even with the extra length, I had to add a small amount of lead.
The only disadvantage to what I did is it makes it more difficult to balance so I ultimately had to make the nose section 4-5" longer and put my batteries in that section to balance, even with the extra length, I had to add a small amount of lead.
#93

Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 127
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Columbus,
IN
George,
I was hoping to not have to purchase any more servos for this build. I like your gallery pics, very nicely done. I couldn't really see the ele. servos in any of the pics. Did you increase the thickness of the horiz. stab. , or is that the called for 5/16"? Thanks again,
Martin
I was hoping to not have to purchase any more servos for this build. I like your gallery pics, very nicely done. I couldn't really see the ele. servos in any of the pics. Did you increase the thickness of the horiz. stab. , or is that the called for 5/16"? Thanks again,
Martin
#94

My Feedback: (84)
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 1,374
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: wilmington, DE
I increased the stab thickness by 1/8". I didn't want to buy any more servos either but flutter can knock you right out of the sky. I have never had flutter problems with flex cable but also I never had a plane that was rally fast with them...My arrangement mimics what the BVM Jet Cat has except my elevator is not split, both servos operate my single elevator
#95

Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 127
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Columbus,
IN
Well alright then, I guess I'll go this route. I haven't opened some of the servos I bought, maybe I can exchange them...
I did have flutter on one plane and it just about destroyed it. So how many flights do you have with your eagle now? Been up this year yet? I'm looking forward to seeing some more video of it.
Thanks,
Martin
I did have flutter on one plane and it just about destroyed it. So how many flights do you have with your eagle now? Been up this year yet? I'm looking forward to seeing some more video of it.
Thanks,
Martin
#96

My Feedback: (84)
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 1,374
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: wilmington, DE
I have about 12 flights on it so far, none this year, hopefully the weather will get better soon here in Delaware
when I do fly, its hard to get a good photographer type that can "lead" the plane properly to get good pics... I end up radically editing the footage OH WELL at least I get some pice of it, the best one so far is the one on YOU TUBE
when I do fly, its hard to get a good photographer type that can "lead" the plane properly to get good pics... I end up radically editing the footage OH WELL at least I get some pice of it, the best one so far is the one on YOU TUBE
#97

Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 127
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Columbus,
IN
Whoever did the last videos of it did a superb job. I can't get anyone to get a decent video of my slow aerobats. Did you use the hitec thin wing servos like these:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXAYM2&P=0
thanks,
Martin
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXAYM2&P=0
thanks,
Martin
#99

Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 127
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Columbus,
IN
Okay George, I got my Hitec digital thin wing servos today. More questions...how did you mount them? Are the mounting tabs actually glued between layers of wood? Also how come you didn't split the elevator in half? I thought the whole reason to use two servos in the elevator was to add a measure of safety to it. Just curious. I think I have all the electronics purchased. Now I just have to get the plane built, and finish the retracts and so some turbine upgrades.
Thanks again,
Martin
Thanks again,
Martin
#100

My Feedback: (84)
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 1,374
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: wilmington, DE
I put basswood strips down under where the mounting tabs are and used small wood screws to hold them in. I just put the servos over the open frame of the stab and made my own parts.I mounted them so they both operate from a "Y" connctor, so I only use 1 channel for the elevator..this means that one servo arm ends up closer to one of the rudders than the other one and I used metal servo arms. You can split the elevator if you want, I didn't so the combined torque of both servos acts on the one surface. Setting them up this way means that you have to be careful to mount the control horns exactly equal and have the pushrods the same length so the servos do not end up fighting each other during movement which will put an extra drain on your batteries. I used a servo tester with a built in milliamp gauge to test the servos and adjusted the linkages until I had the minimum current draw.Of course if you split the elevator this is not a problem. I also tested my setup by unplugging 1 servo and the elevator still works OK just a littke bit slower.



