Comp ARF Flash update
#651

Geoff's right, good old gaffer tape will sort it + maybe the odd tap with a hammer to persuade it.....
I'm guessing the picture of the tailcone on top of the bin is a tribute to its triumph on avoiding going where the rest of the airframe has gone.
Get dave to see if you can get a quote for a Flash minus tailcone!
I'm guessing the picture of the tailcone on top of the bin is a tribute to its triumph on avoiding going where the rest of the airframe has gone.
Get dave to see if you can get a quote for a Flash minus tailcone!
#652
ORIGINAL: Joe McBride
These fit without mods? Will they fit (or can they be modified) 8mm pins? Do they fit the stock (behotec) wheels and brakes?
What is the part #?
Thanks,
Joe
ORIGINAL: digitech
you dont need to alter anymore then with the original gear
the new oleo,s that came this year have almost 0 offset.
the "old"ones you needed to trim a bit of the thunnel
you dont need to alter anymore then with the original gear
the new oleo,s that came this year have almost 0 offset.
the "old"ones you needed to trim a bit of the thunnel
These fit without mods? Will they fit (or can they be modified) 8mm pins? Do they fit the stock (behotec) wheels and brakes?
What is the part #?
Thanks,
Joe
if they are the brakes should fit (send me the inside measurements to check) and the axle we can set to (6.35mm-1/4 inch)
the oleo,s are from behotec
the ones you need are J125.1021
look under large oleo,s
anmd you need a couple of 8mm pins
so yes you need to "upgrade"the retracts.
#658
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From: Bristol, UNITED KINGDOM
( [sm=72_72.gif]every now and then on a tight turn the wing would tuck under [sm=75_75.gif])
I have thought long and hard as to why my flash crashed and have come to the conclusion that the most likely cause was the Futaba MSA-10 may not have been up to the job with two DS8411 servos on the elevators, power supply was two 7.2 2200 Thunder Power lipos
Though a emcotec bic switch then to the Rx then to the servos there was no separate battery supply to the MSA-10[sm=shades_smile.gif]
I have thought long and hard as to why my flash crashed and have come to the conclusion that the most likely cause was the Futaba MSA-10 may not have been up to the job with two DS8411 servos on the elevators, power supply was two 7.2 2200 Thunder Power lipos
Though a emcotec bic switch then to the Rx then to the servos there was no separate battery supply to the MSA-10[sm=shades_smile.gif]
#659

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From: wilmington, DE
What is a "futaba MAS10" ? I have a 3200 mah lipo regulated by a single DURALITE regulator going right to my 9ch PCM rx, using 2 power wires to the rx! no worries yet solid asa a rock after maNY FLIGHTS and I'm using all JR servos 8411's
#661
Thread Starter

Fred
Should have been fine...better with a Powerbox Sensor switch but your set up should cope fine, load on a Flash is not that great, mine uses 250mAh total each flight
Dave W
Should have been fine...better with a Powerbox Sensor switch but your set up should cope fine, load on a Flash is not that great, mine uses 250mAh total each flight
Dave W
#663

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From: Loveland,
CO
I'm assembling a Flash now. This is my first jet.
I purchased the parts to put the 8mm pins in the landing gear from McMaster, but I'm not completely understanding how to modify the gear.
Are you guys drilling out all three gears for the 8mm pins? The nose gear would still have to have a longer pin, right? Then you would need an 8mm wheel collar to go on the top of the pin. Is there room in there for the larger wheel collar?
Or are you just drilling out the main gear only for the 8mm pins, and leaving the nose wheel 6mm?
How are you actually doing the drilling? By this I mean how are you holding the struts perpendicular while drilling?
For the retract unit itself, can I just support it on its flanges and then drill it out when in the "down" position? Are the flanges exactly perpendicular to the hole for the pin?
Thanks, Jim
I purchased the parts to put the 8mm pins in the landing gear from McMaster, but I'm not completely understanding how to modify the gear.
Are you guys drilling out all three gears for the 8mm pins? The nose gear would still have to have a longer pin, right? Then you would need an 8mm wheel collar to go on the top of the pin. Is there room in there for the larger wheel collar?
Or are you just drilling out the main gear only for the 8mm pins, and leaving the nose wheel 6mm?
How are you actually doing the drilling? By this I mean how are you holding the struts perpendicular while drilling?
For the retract unit itself, can I just support it on its flanges and then drill it out when in the "down" position? Are the flanges exactly perpendicular to the hole for the pin?
Thanks, Jim
#664

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Hey Jim,
I finally upgraded mine and it is the only way to go. No need to do the nosegear, only the mains.
Billy actually bored out my struts and Mark did my trunions (thanks guys!). I didn't hear you mention the reamer, but you will definitely want one of those as well as a drill press and vise.
Joe
I finally upgraded mine and it is the only way to go. No need to do the nosegear, only the mains.
Billy actually bored out my struts and Mark did my trunions (thanks guys!). I didn't hear you mention the reamer, but you will definitely want one of those as well as a drill press and vise.
Joe
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From: Loveland,
CO
Thanks Joe.
I'm the guy that was checking out your set up and asking you all the questions in Phoenix a few weeks ago.
I do have the reamer and a drill press.
Is doing the nose gear not necessary because of the trailing link strut?
Sounds like your using a drill press vise to hold the parts while drilling?
Thanks, Jim
I'm the guy that was checking out your set up and asking you all the questions in Phoenix a few weeks ago.
I do have the reamer and a drill press.
Is doing the nose gear not necessary because of the trailing link strut?
Sounds like your using a drill press vise to hold the parts while drilling?
Thanks, Jim
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From: Ligonier IN
Make sure you drill and ream the holes straight. Chuck up one of the old 6mm pins in your drill press and slide the truinon onto the pin then clamp the trunion in the vise. Put the 8mm drill or reamer in the chuck and go to town. Much eaisier than using and indicator. If you try and do it without aligning and clamping you will be buying new trunions (ask me how I know [:@])
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From: wilmington, DE
for what it's worth, the trailing link struts are the real fix, regardless of pin dia. My primary grass field is quite rough and the original pins that came with the flash were brittle.. the pins from MSC are much better and the trailing links definetly absorbs some of the landing loads!
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From: Loveland,
CO
I'll be flying on asphalt, so I hope I'll be O.K. without the trailing links.
I heard the trailing links require some modifications / tinkering to get them to fit right, also.
Jim
I heard the trailing links require some modifications / tinkering to get them to fit right, also.
Jim
#671

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The 8mm pins are a real fix too. I was buddy-boxing my son on the Flash a few weeks ago and we didn't realize that he wasn't getting full power because the throttle trim on the buddy box was down. The result was that the Flash ran off the end of the runway into the tall grass/weeds/brush with almost full power on.
One main gear came out OK and the other got bent aft about 1/4" at the wheel. It turns out that most of the bend was in the 8mm pin - it did not break. We flew it several more times that day and I'm replacing the pin now before Fl Jets. The strut was tweaked just slightly, trunion was fine, the gear frames were fine, and the gear mounts were fine. That 6 mm pin is just too small and brittle for that application. Replace it with the 8mm and you'll be fine.
One main gear came out OK and the other got bent aft about 1/4" at the wheel. It turns out that most of the bend was in the 8mm pin - it did not break. We flew it several more times that day and I'm replacing the pin now before Fl Jets. The strut was tweaked just slightly, trunion was fine, the gear frames were fine, and the gear mounts were fine. That 6 mm pin is just too small and brittle for that application. Replace it with the 8mm and you'll be fine.
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From: wilmington, DE
I have some 8mm ones and the tools to put them in but since switching to the 6.3's and the use of trailing links I have not bent any pins bend or break or had any problems whatsoever.. it does help to make nice slow landings as well... eventually if you have a bad landing similay mishap you WANT the pins to break rather than rip out structure within the wings...
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From: Ligonier IN
I have 130+ flights on mine and not all were perfect landings with never a bent or broken 8mm pin or trunion. On a hard surface the stock gear is fine and you will not find better brakes IMO. It's the only system I have had that will hold air for months. The tires could use some improvement though. Be sure and glue them to the wheels or be ready to chase them down the runway!
#674

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From: Loveland,
CO
I got my gear drilled out for the 8mm pins. My neighbor is a machinist and he helped me. We did the stuts in a metal lathe, and the trunions were done on a monster drill press with vice. Gear is good to go now. Thanks for the tips.
Does anyone know of a good instrument panel thast fits well in the Flash?
Thanks, Jim
Does anyone know of a good instrument panel thast fits well in the Flash?
Thanks, Jim
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From: Loveland,
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The nipples on the brakes seem to be smaller than the ones on the retracts. My 3mm tubing does not fit very tight on the brakes and I think it will leak. What have you guys done to remedy this?
Thanks, Jim
Thanks, Jim



so i decided to put in the cabinet with all my other trophies