I had to grind away the rails to make it fit. Not a big deal but take your time. On one I removed too much which required a bit more work to make work. They are great gear though and a huge improvement over stock.

Thanks Cagmo,

Do you have a picture of what your install looks like?

Grinding out the mount dosn't look like that much of a problem. Forward of that area looks a little more challenging. Did you use the struct area inserts to fill the open area?

I am wondering if I don't use them air will get under the wing skin and could cause a problem.

Any opinions there?

Stan

I did use the inserts (w/o the cover for the strut). It's tight but can be done. I ground the rails rearward (away from the strut opening) to make it fit...almost to the former in the nose if I recall. The wings...same thing...grind rearward towards rib. Sorry no pics...the Flash is cozy in the trailer. I can take some this weekend at the filed if you can wait.

I have the Jet 1-A gear and I didn't use the inserts. I made my own out of Balsa... I Painted and glued them in place.
I Felt that the fit was a little to close for me with the Gear. So I moved the Balsa in alittle bit farther. I did the front and the back side.

Thanks Cagmo and Phjoker,

I don't think I will need your picture. Phjoker's picture shows using balsa wood to fill the gap, that looks like a good fix and easy to do.

It looks like my grinding as you suggested on the rails will be away from the wheel opening.

Were your structs straight, mine have a slight angle to them. this will not help.

Stan

Stan,

I have the digitec struts and they also have a very slight bend. It is very fiddly and takes time, grinding and patience, but they will fit (tight) in the end! I used the covers.

Mav

FWIW I like the idea of the balsa. I may retro fit mine next time I need to get in there. Great idea!

Stan, the stock inserts will fit. Photos below.

Doug

Thanks Doug,

A picture is worth a thousand words. That's what I will do..

Stan

Hi Guy's

I am installing my P-120. I have approx 3/4" clearance between the end of the thrust tube and the inner pipe inside the bell mouth. The manual calls for 15-18 mm between where the chrome starts on the engine to the front face of the bell mouth. Then that makes 3/4" not enough.

Am I okay with 3/4" clearance? How much clearance are most of you using?

It also looks like I will need to raise the engine mount about 1/8" to center in the thrust tube. Does that sound about what your Jetcats used?

Thanks,
Stan

Hi I'm thinking of buying a flash as my first jet, how do you think a kingtech K80 will do for power in this plane?

I think that a K80 would not work well. I think at a least a P-80SE. I have flown mine with a P-120 and now I have a Titan in it. Mine weights 24.5 lbs unloaded.

Graham

an original Flash will fly fine on as little as a P70, you'll be OK with the K80.

Agreed, however; it'll be slow until you get a few laps on the plane.

Yeah I'm talking about the original one not the ultra flash, I figured I would keep it as light as possible and it would be fine since it can use a P70.

If I use the K80 should I use the bypass or not and should I use the wing tank and fuse tank or just the fuse tank? It kind of worries me a little that the fuse tank doesn't have a bit of a dip in the floor and it's just flat so it doesn't seem to pick up all the fuel. I would really like to use just one tank since I want to build it light, on that note what tail pipe should I run? Thanks for the info!

On my Ultra flash, I am not using the supplied bypass... Is it recommended to use it for better top end speed?

Im thinking about building new a classic flash with P-80SE soon, and have a few questions:
- whats the flight time on just the fuse tank ? how much fuel does it carry ?
- how's the performance with the P-80SE ?
- would a bypass be recommended with this setup ?

thanks.

I test flew a CF with a P-60 in it a few years back!
It flew OK, nothing in the vertical to talk about, but once on the step (2 circuits pinned!) it flew OK. P-80SE is great, we still have a few CF on the original P80 and that comes off a 90m grass strip.
I would always fit the byepass, the original 2 prototypes (RIP) did not have byepasses and we flew one in Germany May2006 with a P-70 and the other with a P-120, for a laugh we swapped the P-70 for a P-160 on the Saturday night without telling anyone and although it had better vertical, it was no faster than the P-120. That's when I asked about a full bye pass and ended up with the first one which still has a 2005 P-120 in it. Though never tested I'm sure there is less drag on the full bypass and less chance of a fuselage fire.

Dw

It flew with a P60? guess that says alot about the airframe, the K80 puts out 19lbs so if I can build it to around 19 to 20 lbs that's a thrust to weight ratio of 1 to 1 or just slightly less. Any aircraft I've flown or see fly with that ratio always perform well but correct me if I'm wrong jets might be different?

I had the model that started this thead out yesterday, other than changing to trailing link main legs around 3 years ago and wearing out 2 sets of main tyres, it's original, same fuel system in total, same old P-120 (it's had a bearing and combustion chamber change) same Thunderpower Rx Li-Po's and slightly surprisingly for me same Graupner 3700 6N NiMH ECU pack.
Brilliant model....

Dw

I need some trailink link legs for my Flas.

I do have pin mount legs of 8 mm


Anyone out there which has tried these?

http://www.motorsandrotors.co/index....roducts_id=629

Other recomemndations?

11 Years old this July...still rocks!
Same equipment throughout other than 2.4 Rx and main wheels. The Powerbox Sesnort switch and 2 x 2100 Prolite Thunderpower Rx Li-Po's are the same too.

Couple of photos by AP