Comp ARF Flash update
#777
ORIGINAL: siclick33
Sorry if this has been answered before.
I have the Jet-1A gear in my (unflown) Flash and am a bit worried about the strength of the retract springs. When I select the gear down there is not a positive push and the gear sort of flops down. If I select the gear down with the model upside down the gear barely lifts out of the wheel wells. Now I know I would never do this in practice and Sandor assures me that they will be fine as long as I omit the nose door as the wheels will drop by gravity.
Has anyone else that has used the Jet-1A gear noticed this and has it given you any problems. Is it possible to get stiffer springs to go in the cylinders?
Sorry if this has been answered before.
I have the Jet-1A gear in my (unflown) Flash and am a bit worried about the strength of the retract springs. When I select the gear down there is not a positive push and the gear sort of flops down. If I select the gear down with the model upside down the gear barely lifts out of the wheel wells. Now I know I would never do this in practice and Sandor assures me that they will be fine as long as I omit the nose door as the wheels will drop by gravity.
Has anyone else that has used the Jet-1A gear noticed this and has it given you any problems. Is it possible to get stiffer springs to go in the cylinders?
Dont worry about it , as lloong you dont use that "door" you will be fine
also make sure there is some slack on the steering cables.
#778

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From: Hensley,
AR
Hello,
I am thinking about a Flash for my next airplane and have a couple of questions I hope some of you Flash owners may be able to help me with. I have Behotec retract, struts and brakes. I would like to know the lenght of the nose and main struts from the top of the strut to the axle. Also, my behotec brakes do not fit around the strut leg and this makes the wheel /brake assembly thick. I am concerned that this might not allow the wheel to fully retract into the wheel well. I would like to know the width of the wheel/brake strut assembly for a proper fit as with the Intairico assembly.
If anyone knows or can measure these distances for me, it would be greatly apreciated.
Thanks in advance,
Cody
I am thinking about a Flash for my next airplane and have a couple of questions I hope some of you Flash owners may be able to help me with. I have Behotec retract, struts and brakes. I would like to know the lenght of the nose and main struts from the top of the strut to the axle. Also, my behotec brakes do not fit around the strut leg and this makes the wheel /brake assembly thick. I am concerned that this might not allow the wheel to fully retract into the wheel well. I would like to know the width of the wheel/brake strut assembly for a proper fit as with the Intairico assembly.
If anyone knows or can measure these distances for me, it would be greatly apreciated.
Thanks in advance,
Cody
#779

Finally getting down to the nitty gritty.
I'm building the cockpit and need a pilot. I had heard that some were using a Cermark one but mine doesn't fit properly. Before I start surgery and cut this guys arms off, does anyone have a recommendation for a pilot that will fit the stock cockpit tub?
I'm building the cockpit and need a pilot. I had heard that some were using a Cermark one but mine doesn't fit properly. Before I start surgery and cut this guys arms off, does anyone have a recommendation for a pilot that will fit the stock cockpit tub?
#780
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From: studio city, CA
I've read this entire thread and I have some questions:
1) Why do some people need heat shield around the tail pipe while others don't? Are the people with heat problems installing their pipes incorrectly?
2) Where should the flaps be set? 65 mm? 45 mm? Some say the 65 mm (per manual) is too much and causes pitch oscillation (coupled with an aft CG).
3) The p120 doesn't sit dead center with the mount, the kit supplies two wood rectangles to offset the mount; did others have to do this too?
Having asked those questions, where is my setup:
P120 (Non SE)
8411 all around
JRSport 126MG for the nose wheel
Behotec C36/2 retracts with stock nose gear, BUT Dreamworks trailing links retracts made for 6mm pins. I also ordered the "beefier" 6 mm pins from altecare.
Smart Fly EQ 12 with two fremco A123 batteries (2300 mAh)
For the ECU battery, I need to ask Bob Wilcox if I can use a 3 cell A123, if not, I'm going with a big 2S lipo.
1221 receiver, no need for the 1222 since I'm using the EQ12
Tell me what you think.
1) Why do some people need heat shield around the tail pipe while others don't? Are the people with heat problems installing their pipes incorrectly?
2) Where should the flaps be set? 65 mm? 45 mm? Some say the 65 mm (per manual) is too much and causes pitch oscillation (coupled with an aft CG).
3) The p120 doesn't sit dead center with the mount, the kit supplies two wood rectangles to offset the mount; did others have to do this too?
Having asked those questions, where is my setup:
P120 (Non SE)
8411 all around
JRSport 126MG for the nose wheel
Behotec C36/2 retracts with stock nose gear, BUT Dreamworks trailing links retracts made for 6mm pins. I also ordered the "beefier" 6 mm pins from altecare.
Smart Fly EQ 12 with two fremco A123 batteries (2300 mAh)
For the ECU battery, I need to ask Bob Wilcox if I can use a 3 cell A123, if not, I'm going with a big 2S lipo.
1221 receiver, no need for the 1222 since I'm using the EQ12
Tell me what you think.
#781

ORIGINAL: MicroDat
I've read this entire thread and I have some questions:
1) Why do some people need heat shield around the tail pipe while others don't? Are the people with heat problems installing their pipes incorrectly?
I've read this entire thread and I have some questions:
1) Why do some people need heat shield around the tail pipe while others don't? Are the people with heat problems installing their pipes incorrectly?
2) Where should the flaps be set? 65 mm? 45 mm? Some say the 65 mm (per manual) is too much and causes pitch oscillation (coupled with an aft CG).
3) The p120 doesn't sit dead center with the mount, the kit supplies two wood rectangles to offset the mount; did others have to do this too?
Having asked those questions, where is my setup:
P120 (Non SE)
8411 all around
JRSport 126MG for the nose wheel
Behotec C36/2 retracts with stock nose gear, BUT Dreamworks trailing links retracts made for 6mm pins. I also ordered the "beefier" 6 mm pins from altecare.
Smart Fly EQ 12 with two fremco A123 batteries (2300 mAh)
For the ECU battery, I need to ask Bob Wilcox if I can use a 3 cell A123, if not, I'm going with a big 2S lipo.
1221 receiver, no need for the 1222 since I'm using the EQ12
Tell me what you think.
P120 (Non SE)
8411 all around
JRSport 126MG for the nose wheel
Behotec C36/2 retracts with stock nose gear, BUT Dreamworks trailing links retracts made for 6mm pins. I also ordered the "beefier" 6 mm pins from altecare.
Smart Fly EQ 12 with two fremco A123 batteries (2300 mAh)
For the ECU battery, I need to ask Bob Wilcox if I can use a 3 cell A123, if not, I'm going with a big 2S lipo.
1221 receiver, no need for the 1222 since I'm using the EQ12
Tell me what you think.
on the ECU i like the 2S 3800 mah Duralite LiMg.
#782
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From: studio city, CA
NACA inlets, do I need those? My friends who fly their flashes with the 120 and titan did not cut any NACA inlets and even claim the inlets can cause damage by catching too much air.
#783

ORIGINAL: MicroDat
NACA inlets, do I need those? My friends who fly their flashes with the 120 and titan did not cut any NACA inlets and even claim the inlets can cause damage by catching too much air.
NACA inlets, do I need those? My friends who fly their flashes with the 120 and titan did not cut any NACA inlets and even claim the inlets can cause damage by catching too much air.
I've got a Titan SE in my Flash and it has the NACA inlets, as you can see in the pic, there is no damage at all to them and she's been at top speed many many times. I'd recommend adding them otherwise the outer pipe has no way of drawing in air, the bellmouth basically seals off the forward bulkhead and the pipe seals the tail cone.
#784
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From: studio city, CA
I still haven't decided if I will use the NACA inlets but I have another question for you flash fliers, what length servo arm do you use? I bought 1.5 inches all around; the 1.5 inche arms matches the length of the arms on the control surfaces, but in the elevator you cannot put the covers with the 1.5 inche arms. Please advise!
#786

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From: West KirbyWirral, UNITED KINGDOM
I would strongly advise using the additional air intakes at the rear of the fus'. There is quite a bit of heat to disperse in this area. Ron.
#788
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From: studio city, CA
ORIGINAL: ron Sweeney
I would strongly advise using the additional air intakes at the rear of the fus'. There is quite a bit of heat to disperse in this area. Ron.
I would strongly advise using the additional air intakes at the rear of the fus'. There is quite a bit of heat to disperse in this area. Ron.
#790
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From: studio city, CA
ORIGINAL: siclick33
Is there any reason not to have them?
Is there any reason not to have them?
someone told me they can rip out the rear of the plane under high speeds. I am putting a 120 but eventually I will put in a titan.
#791

ORIGINAL: MicroDat
Length? Does the elevator covers fit over them?
ORIGINAL: KC36330
i used the JR heavy duty nylon horns on every surface.
i used the JR heavy duty nylon horns on every surface.
Length? Does the elevator covers fit over them?
JR only makes one HD Nylon horn, it's roughly 3/4", part number JRPA215 and the covers will fit over them.
on the NACA inlets, as previously stated I've got a Titan SE in my Flash, never had a single problem with the inlets, I'd love to see pics of your friends who had problems. if you don't put the holes, you'll have cooling problems with the pipe and the rear fuselage area.
if you're really that worried about it, just line the inside with light ply before cutting the holes, then they would have a doubler, it's not necessary though.
#795
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From: Bakersfield, CA
"I've got a Titan SE in my Flash and it has the NACA inlets, as you can see in the pic, there is no damage at all to them and she's been at top speed many many times. I'd recommend adding them otherwise the outer pipe has no way of drawing in air, the bellmouth basically seals off the forward bulkhead and the pipe seals the tail cone."
Quick Question. If the front and the back of the pipe are "basically" sealed, how does the air from the NACA inlets flow?
Would a front inlet and rear exaust be more effective?
Doug
Quick Question. If the front and the back of the pipe are "basically" sealed, how does the air from the NACA inlets flow?
Would a front inlet and rear exaust be more effective?
Doug
#796

ORIGINAL: rcdoug
Quick Question. If the front and the back of the pipe are "basically" sealed, how does the air from the NACA inlets flow?
Would a front inlet and rear exaust be more effective?
Doug
Quick Question. If the front and the back of the pipe are "basically" sealed, how does the air from the NACA inlets flow?
Would a front inlet and rear exaust be more effective?
Doug
under the inlets is where the gap between the two pipes is at.
#797
ORIGINAL: MicroDat
I still haven't decided if I will use the NACA inlets but I have another question for you flash fliers, what length servo arm do you use? I bought 1.5 inches all around; the 1.5 inche arms matches the length of the arms on the control surfaces, but in the elevator you cannot put the covers with the 1.5 inche arms. Please advise!
I still haven't decided if I will use the NACA inlets but I have another question for you flash fliers, what length servo arm do you use? I bought 1.5 inches all around; the 1.5 inche arms matches the length of the arms on the control surfaces, but in the elevator you cannot put the covers with the 1.5 inche arms. Please advise!
no need for naca inlets unless you fly at temps around 35 celcius or more.
i fly the flash with 145N , and dive full and well over 250MPH , no problem...
temps are well below the max rate so all is ok
#798
ORIGINAL: rcdoug
Quick Question. If the front and the back of the pipe are "basically" sealed, how does the air from the NACA inlets flow?
Would a front inlet and rear exaust be more effective?
Doug
Quick Question. If the front and the back of the pipe are "basically" sealed, how does the air from the NACA inlets flow?
Would a front inlet and rear exaust be more effective?
Doug
Here's a pic of my inlets:
#799
ORIGINAL: causeitflies
The air enters the inlets and is drawn between the inner and outer pipes. There are also holes in the former around the bell-mouth. But, the last two sections of the plane are sealed and I always think that this area could use some ventilation.
Here's a pic of my inlets:
ORIGINAL: rcdoug
Quick Question. If the front and the back of the pipe are "basically" sealed, how does the air from the NACA inlets flow?
Would a front inlet and rear exaust be more effective?
Doug
Quick Question. If the front and the back of the pipe are "basically" sealed, how does the air from the NACA inlets flow?
Would a front inlet and rear exaust be more effective?
Doug
Here's a pic of my inlets:
there is also enough flow between the front retract and fuselage forcing the air outwards
#800
ORIGINAL: digitech
there is also enough flow between the front retract and fuselage forcing the air outwards
ORIGINAL: causeitflies
The air enters the inlets and is drawn between the inner and outer pipes. There are also holes in the former around the bell-mouth. But, the last two sections of the plane are sealed and I always think that this area could use some ventilation.
Here's a pic of my inlets:
ORIGINAL: rcdoug
Quick Question. If the front and the back of the pipe are "basically" sealed, how does the air from the NACA inlets flow?
Would a front inlet and rear exaust be more effective?
Doug
Quick Question. If the front and the back of the pipe are "basically" sealed, how does the air from the NACA inlets flow?
Would a front inlet and rear exaust be more effective?
Doug
Here's a pic of my inlets:
there is also enough flow between the front retract and fuselage forcing the air outwards


