Someone has photo of install air tank and all the rest?
Please, send-me!

[email protected]

Thanks

Flávio da Mata
Brazil

Hi all,

The wheels and tyres that are flying apart, what brand are they ???
I have Behotec wheels and am wondering if im going to have a problem !!! Cheers Jeremy.

Intairco is the brand that was coming off the rim. They have fixed it with harder rubber now.

Are you sure you have Behotec wheels, or is it Behotec landing gear? My Behotec landing gear that I purchased with my Flash from Comp-Arf came with Intairco wheels.

Jim

Hi Hammbone,

Yea i got the whole gear set outta Behotec in Germany, with there wheels- thanks for the info, cheers Jeremy.

i've had the same problem with the stock retracts from Comp Arf.

Please check post http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_68...tm.htm#6836563 to see what happened on my maiden. Infact the same happened on my Lightning as well with the Intairco wheels. It is good you bought the Behotec wheels. Very reliable.

Tassos

Hello,

Maybe a stupid question but how do you measure your aileron throws ? from the wing tip side or from the flap (fuselage) side ?

The manual says aileron 20mm up, 22mm down but I can only reach 17mm from the wing tip side before binding !

I also got trouble with the flap settting, at the neutral position my JR 8411 are very noisy and current consumpsion looks high, 250 to 300 mA for both flaps.
Do I have to sand a little bit the flap lips ?

Do you have any fix for both issues ?

Thanks for your help.

Alain

You should take the measurements at the fuse side. Also, the flaps servos should be analog, if you can. That will prevent the constant 'twitching' that you're seeing. The noise is perfectly normal though for digitals. They are fighting gravity to constantly keep the flap up. When the Flash is flying, air pressure will assist this and take most of the pressure off the servos.

Hope that helps!

Make sure your flap pushrods aren't binding. You will have to cut some wood as the manual says, but it's not too clearly stated.
It seems like many of us aren't using nearly as much aileron or flap throw as the manual calls for.
Dan

I agree with underdw about the control throws. The plane was fine with much less throw on the ailerons. Excellent axial rolls.

Jimmy and Dan,

Thank you very much for your comments.

Dan, are you living in La Fayette ? is there any link with our famous marquis de la Fayette ?

Alain

Hello, I have a few questions for all you Flash builders/drivers.
I am looking for an airframe for my new Rabbit. I have a set of Behotec c-36 retracts that I am not currently using. Since my are the spring down version, would they be acceptable to use in the Flash? I used these units on a Falcon 120 and I did have the nose gear fail to lock down on a couple of occassions against the airflow. However, the valve I was using slowly bled the pressure side during extension rather than dumped the pressure. I think by using an Airpower valve I can get the gear to come down with more authority and lock consistantly. Also, I have Behotec struts, wheels and brakes. The tires are fixed with screws thru the hubs and I dont see the tires coming off as has been reprted here with the Intairico tires. Has anyone used the behotec wheels and brakes on this airframe and are they not compatable for some reason?
Lastly, my complete engine install weight is 3.4lbs and is reported to make 20+lbs of thrust. I havent tested or even started mine. Would this be a good engine for the Flash?

Thank you,
Cody

What kind of powerbox or power expanders are people using with their flash? I plan on using a JR921 receiver with a 9303 (2.4ghz). Should I get the smart-fly? Or PowerBox (Royal, 40/24)?

just the electronic switch with two batts off it.

http://www.dreamworksrc.com/catalog/...roducts_id=840

That switch is only good for5 amps, I know 8411's with8611's will draw more than 5 amps.

Hello Microdat,

I will use a Smart-Fly PowerSystem Competition 12 with 2 x 1800mA lipo in my flash (see attached photos)

I use the milled plywood plate included in the kit for the power system, Rx and retract/brake valves on the right side of the cockpit

Best regards,

Alain

it's good for 5 amp continuous, 12 amp bursts and the Flash was designed to use it and the 8411s.


if you'll read the manual these are direct quotes:

and page 11 from the sensor switch manual:

KC,
A buddy of mine and myself have this same scenario and I've been monitoring this thread looking for info. Since the new JR receivers, the 921-922-1221-1222, all have a 35 amp bus with the 922 & 1222 receivers having the soft swtch as it is called, will there still be a need for a powerbox type system? Also, considering the batteries are direct connected to the receivers with high amp connectors (I think they are 15 amps) there shouldn't be a need for the power switch. The 921 & 1221 receivers could use the power switch but isn't the available current limited by the 3 amp connector?

Just searching for a lil clarification......

Thanx,
-SK

We think the same. I'm using a 1222 rx on my Flash. I've got the HD power inputs and the failsafe switch that came with the rx. The current does not flow through this switch, so the switch does not limit current flow in any way. I'm also using the A123 batteries and no regulators. This provides for a very simple, clean, and robust system.
I would recommend the 1222 or 922 rx, and then there's no need for a Power Expander.

Jim

regardless of the setup you use IMHO you do not need a powerbox system on the Flash. it's a pretty simple setup and the only reason i recommend the sensor switch is it's dual batteries/switches for redundancy.

on the sensor switch, if used and the maximum current is exceeded it just bypasses the switch (you get full unregulated power). if you're drawing 15 amps by the servos they won't be harmed by the 7.4V direct connection and as soon as the power consumption drops below the regulators ability it'll kick back in and the servos see 6v again so worrying about the current capacity of the sensor switch shouldn't be a concern to anyone, and I'm not saying it's the best option for everyone, but they work great in these simple setups where you want redundant switches/batts

on the new JR setups, you dont need either.

Hi Cody, regarding power requirements, read my post on the previous page. My flash has flown with the Wren ss and this is adequate (18 puonds thrust). Regarding spring down retracts, yes dump the air as quickly as possible but you can also fit an extra spring in the air cylinder. I have flown a JMP phantom for many years with quater scale Spring air retracts. I have been plagued with the nose wheel collapsing on landing to the point where I bored large holes in the forward hinging door to reduce the slipstream drag. Not the best solution but it worked. Ron

Hello,

Did any one of you guys had the problem of the tires get off the wheels on take off? If so, is there any way to solve it?

Thanks

Ricardo

Yes, I did. Not a great way to start a maiden flight!
I got free replacement wheels from my CArf rep. The new tires are much harder rubber.
I also fixed the old ones by adding glue and 4 small screws through the rim, tire and opposite side of the rim.
Dan

My original Flash that started this thread is now in it's third season (will be 3 years old in July) Hundreds of flights JR 8411 and 8321 (8311) servos using the Powerbox Sensor switch and two Thunderpower 2100 2s Lipos. I can have ten 10minute flights without charging!
The wood work is designed for this switch, it's perfect with a JR 921, JR 9000 etc.

Dave Wilshere

Here's a Flash I finished last night for a good friend, JR 921 2 remotes, Sensor Switch and 2 x 2100 TP batteries all as my original.

Dave Wilshere

Dave,

Where have you got the satelittes postioned, converting my flash to 2.4Ghz on the weekend. I am thinking one on the front of the fuel tank and one in the nose, will this be ok.

Cheers

Nick