Comp ARF Flash update
#751
Thread Starter

Nick
Yes, all four of our local Flash models have exactly that! There is no carbon in the nose, I have my nose Rx between the two formers and the tank mounted one on a block of wood
Dave
Yes, all four of our local Flash models have exactly that! There is no carbon in the nose, I have my nose Rx between the two formers and the tank mounted one on a block of wood
Dave
#753
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From: studio city, CA
I appologize if these questions have been asked and answered already but I just have two questions:
1. How are people mounting 8611 in the elevators? The 8611's are 2 mm thicker than the 8411's, are people just grining a little off the servo and a little off the servo plate? Or did they rig up something fancy?
2. What type of power system are people running? I have a friend who wants to run the 1221 on regulated duralites LiPo batteries. Should I use a powerbox?
Thanks!
1. How are people mounting 8611 in the elevators? The 8611's are 2 mm thicker than the 8411's, are people just grining a little off the servo and a little off the servo plate? Or did they rig up something fancy?
2. What type of power system are people running? I have a friend who wants to run the 1221 on regulated duralites LiPo batteries. Should I use a powerbox?
Thanks!
#754

My Feedback: (32)
Are you guys putting in the molded fiberglass leg-covers in the wing. These are the pieces that fit under the struts. There is a picture of them at the top of pg 27 of the manual. It just seems if you glue these in that it will make it very difficult do any repairs that might be needed to done in the future.
Thanks
Thanks
#755
ORIGINAL: Grodus
Hello, I have a few questions for all you Flash builders/drivers.
I am looking for an airframe for my new Rabbit. I have a set of Behotec c-36 retracts that I am not currently using. Since my are the spring down version, would they be acceptable to use in the Flash? I used these units on a Falcon 120 and I did have the nose gear fail to lock down on a couple of occassions against the airflow. However, the valve I was using slowly bled the pressure side during extension rather than dumped the pressure. I think by using an Airpower valve I can get the gear to come down with more authority and lock consistantly. Also, I have Behotec struts, wheels and brakes. The tires are fixed with screws thru the hubs and I dont see the tires coming off as has been reprted here with the Intairico tires. Has anyone used the behotec wheels and brakes on this airframe and are they not compatable for some reason?
Lastly, my complete engine install weight is 3.4lbs and is reported to make 20+lbs of thrust. I havent tested or even started mine. Would this be a good engine for the Flash?
Thank you,
Cody
Hello, I have a few questions for all you Flash builders/drivers.
I am looking for an airframe for my new Rabbit. I have a set of Behotec c-36 retracts that I am not currently using. Since my are the spring down version, would they be acceptable to use in the Flash? I used these units on a Falcon 120 and I did have the nose gear fail to lock down on a couple of occassions against the airflow. However, the valve I was using slowly bled the pressure side during extension rather than dumped the pressure. I think by using an Airpower valve I can get the gear to come down with more authority and lock consistantly. Also, I have Behotec struts, wheels and brakes. The tires are fixed with screws thru the hubs and I dont see the tires coming off as has been reprted here with the Intairico tires. Has anyone used the behotec wheels and brakes on this airframe and are they not compatable for some reason?
Lastly, my complete engine install weight is 3.4lbs and is reported to make 20+lbs of thrust. I havent tested or even started mine. Would this be a good engine for the Flash?
Thank you,
Cody
you will always have that problem that the front gear is not locking properly.
i would suggest you lose the front LG cover to get rid of some of those problems
#756
ORIGINAL: killerG
Are you guys putting in the molded fiberglass leg-covers in the wing. These are the pieces that fit under the struts. There is a picture of them at the top of pg 27 of the manual. It just seems if you glue these in that it will make it very difficult do any repairs that might be needed to done in the future.
Thanks
Are you guys putting in the molded fiberglass leg-covers in the wing. These are the pieces that fit under the struts. There is a picture of them at the top of pg 27 of the manual. It just seems if you glue these in that it will make it very difficult do any repairs that might be needed to done in the future.
Thanks
#757

ORIGINAL: MicroDat
2. What type of power system are people running? I have a friend who wants to run the 1221 on regulated duralites LiPo batteries. Should I use a powerbox?
2. What type of power system are people running? I have a friend who wants to run the 1221 on regulated duralites LiPo batteries. Should I use a powerbox?
#759

I've got mine set so the servo is at 90º at 50% servo travel, that worked out perfect with minimal adjusting for full up and landing with the 50% being take off position.
#760
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From: studio city, CA
Has anyone installed the flash trailing link gears from dreamworks rc?
http://www.dreamworksrc.com/catalog/...oducts_id=1668
It takes so much work to get them in, in fact we had to cut the inner two holes for the screw and drill new ones to get them to fit w/o having dremmel too much wood off the wing.
http://www.dreamworksrc.com/catalog/...oducts_id=1668
It takes so much work to get them in, in fact we had to cut the inner two holes for the screw and drill new ones to get them to fit w/o having dremmel too much wood off the wing.
#761
I installed them on mine and although it wasn't a drop in replacent, it was worth it. New holes and chop some wood.
I would have kept the stock gear if it wasn't for the set screw strut attachment. I replaced the main retracts and struts but kept the stock nose gear.
I would have kept the stock gear if it wasn't for the set screw strut attachment. I replaced the main retracts and struts but kept the stock nose gear.
#762
ORIGINAL: MicroDat
Has anyone installed the flash trailing link gears from dreamworks rc?
http://www.dreamworksrc.com/catalog/...oducts_id=1668
It takes so much work to get them in, in fact we had to cut the inner two holes for the screw and drill new ones to get them to fit w/o having dremmel too much wood off the wing.
Has anyone installed the flash trailing link gears from dreamworks rc?
http://www.dreamworksrc.com/catalog/...oducts_id=1668
It takes so much work to get them in, in fact we had to cut the inner two holes for the screw and drill new ones to get them to fit w/o having dremmel too much wood off the wing.
I fitted them in nicely and easily. The only rework needed was that I had to bore the inner diameter of the strut to fit the 6mm pin. It wasn't 6mm but slightly smaller, say 5.99999999mm. I did it at the end and now I'm really satisfied with their performance.
With the stock units every second flight I had problems and had to reset them. With the Dreamworks struts the problems are gone.
Here is a pic:
Tassos
#763

Sorry if this has been answered before.
I have the Jet-1A gear in my (unflown) Flash and am a bit worried about the strength of the retract springs. When I select the gear down there is not a positive push and the gear sort of flops down. If I select the gear down with the model upside down the gear barely lifts out of the wheel wells. Now I know I would never do this in practice and Sandor assures me that they will be fine as long as I omit the nose door as the wheels will drop by gravity.
Has anyone else that has used the Jet-1A gear noticed this and has it given you any problems. Is it possible to get stiffer springs to go in the cylinders?
I have the Jet-1A gear in my (unflown) Flash and am a bit worried about the strength of the retract springs. When I select the gear down there is not a positive push and the gear sort of flops down. If I select the gear down with the model upside down the gear barely lifts out of the wheel wells. Now I know I would never do this in practice and Sandor assures me that they will be fine as long as I omit the nose door as the wheels will drop by gravity.
Has anyone else that has used the Jet-1A gear noticed this and has it given you any problems. Is it possible to get stiffer springs to go in the cylinders?
#764

allot of retracts have a hard time pushing a gear UP that has 3" wheels and brakes attacked to the struts, them babies are heavy, but you should get a positive up and down lock. my flash has the stock Behotec gear and they'll freely go up and lock at 40 psi.
#765

Going up is not the problem. The air will quite happily lock them in the up position. I am worried about not getting a positive 'spring-down' lock, especially on the noseleg that lowers forwards into the airflow.
#766

you should get a hard down and lock with any decent air pressure unless you've got a restriction in the air flow or binding in the retract or its travel. if they are spring down, you may need a stronger spring.
#767

My Feedback: (32)
Just was wondering if I should use the bypass? I am using a P-120. I have read that some people use them and some don't. What are the advantages or disadvantages of the bypass? This is my second jet, first that the turbine is inside the airframe. My first jet was a Bobcat.
Thanks
Thanks
#768
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From: studio city, CA
ORIGINAL: tpeppas3d
I fitted them in nicely and easily. The only rework needed was that I had to bore the inner diameter of the strut to fit the 6mm pin. It wasn't 6mm but slightly smaller, say 5.99999999mm. I did it at the end and now I'm really satisfied with their performance.
With the stock units every second flight I had problems and had to reset them. With the Dreamworks struts the problems are gone.
Here is a pic:
Tassos
ORIGINAL: MicroDat
Has anyone installed the flash trailing link gears from dreamworks rc?
http://www.dreamworksrc.com/catalog/...oducts_id=1668
It takes so much work to get them in, in fact we had to cut the inner two holes for the screw and drill new ones to get them to fit w/o having dremmel too much wood off the wing.
Has anyone installed the flash trailing link gears from dreamworks rc?
http://www.dreamworksrc.com/catalog/...oducts_id=1668
It takes so much work to get them in, in fact we had to cut the inner two holes for the screw and drill new ones to get them to fit w/o having dremmel too much wood off the wing.
I fitted them in nicely and easily. The only rework needed was that I had to bore the inner diameter of the strut to fit the 6mm pin. It wasn't 6mm but slightly smaller, say 5.99999999mm. I did it at the end and now I'm really satisfied with their performance.
With the stock units every second flight I had problems and had to reset them. With the Dreamworks struts the problems are gone.
Here is a pic:
Tassos
#769

ORIGINAL: killerG
Just was wondering if I should use the bypass? I am using a P-120. I have read that some people use them and some don't. What are the advantages or disadvantages of the bypass? This is my second jet, first that the turbine is inside the airframe. My first jet was a Bobcat.
Thanks
Just was wondering if I should use the bypass? I am using a P-120. I have read that some people use them and some don't. What are the advantages or disadvantages of the bypass? This is my second jet, first that the turbine is inside the airframe. My first jet was a Bobcat.
Thanks
with the bottom (the removable part that faces the wing) of the bypass removed the turbine is allowed more air with less restrictions (it's pulling in from the nose wheel opening too) and turbine performance is increased noticeable with the larger engines. i run a Titan SE, it has the upper part of the bypass but not the lower nor the inlet joiner.
#770

ORIGINAL: MicroDat
How did you bore the inside diameter of the strut?
How did you bore the inside diameter of the strut?
i used a lathe to drill and ream my struts to 8mm, used a drill press to drill and ream the retracts.
#773
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From: -Burgundy, FRANCE
Hi KC36330,
I will soon finish my Flash powered by a Wren 160.
Like you, I will only use the upper part of the bypass.
Do you have any ballast in the nose ? How much weight ?
Thanks,
Alain
I will soon finish my Flash powered by a Wren 160.
Like you, I will only use the upper part of the bypass.
Do you have any ballast in the nose ? How much weight ?
Thanks,
Alain
#774

ORIGINAL: raptorlogo
Hi KC36330,
I will soon finish my Flash powered by a Wren 160.
Like you, I will only use the upper part of the bypass.
Do you have any ballast in the nose ? How much weight ?
Thanks,
Alain
Hi KC36330,
I will soon finish my Flash powered by a Wren 160.
Like you, I will only use the upper part of the bypass.
Do you have any ballast in the nose ? How much weight ?
Thanks,
Alain
i do not have any additional weight added BUT with the Titan SE installed i used a powerbox that i had and wasn't using so i've got 2 Li-Ion batts for the receiver, i did have to put the Li-Mg ECU battery in the nose next to the air tank, that gave me a balance of 367mm.
i also have my fuel pump in the forward left side of what was intended as the battery compartment next to the nose wheel just in front of the ECU


