Tam.

That is a fantastic looking Scooter. Great job.

I was looking to work on the fuel tanks tonight. I am going to glue them with some clear silicon, or is there a better way???

Velcro is the best way. The inlet ducting just need zap with CA to hold in place.
You want everything easy to remove for service later.
Tam

Hello Tam.

I just tried to install the main tank, but couldn't find a way in. Is there a trick or di I need to cut away a peice from the cockpit opening to get it into the fuselage.

Stig,

WRONG HOLE! ...and you can quote me on that! The tanks go in from the back hatch.....It looks like you have glued the intake duct in so that may be a problem. The instructions show how to make a small plywood piece to screw the ducts in so that they can be removed for servicing. Here are pages 17 and 18 from the manual. Sorry about the poor quality...I did a quick scan and paste..........

Tailwinds,

John

Stig,
I can remember how to do the tank. Wait a minute. I'm flying on Lipo fuel. No tank needed.

Anyways,
John just explain it. You want the ducting able to remove for service.
The tank going from the engine hatch. The inlet ducting can be zap with CA after the tank install . That way you can easy remove the inlet ducting if need service.

OK, I see. [sm=bananahead.gif]The inlets were already glued in when I got the kit....... I hope I can break it loose again without damaging it. I'll let you guys know how it went.
Thanks, guys.

That is easy to break loose.
I had done so many of those.

Hello tam.

You were right. It was easy to break loose. I finished the fuel tank installation tonight. I used silicone for the fuel tanks. It is easy to cut through it with a sharp knife, should I ever need to take them out. Sorry no pics today.

Use velcro to secure the tanks. That way is easy to remove and no need to cut or clean up the silicone.

oops, read that wrong..........

Stig.

Hope you dont mind an observation but you may find it easier to get all the wiring and cable runs in from the rear of the jet to the front section first, while you have good access to the fuselage bottom, before fitting the tanks.

Looking at the manual and build threads this seems the best method and less hastle, especially as the runs are either side of the main tank.

marc.

Hello Marc.

Thanks for the advice, but I mounted the tanks with silicone yesterday and I found today, that there is enought room to run the air hoses and the servo leads on either side of the main tank. I made sure that there is approx. 10 mm between the fuselage and the main tank on either side. Using my Dremel, I made a hole in the bulkhead where the leads and hoses can pass through. I think it is OK.

BTW, Tam. Where do I put the UAT?

Here are some pics.

Stig

with the saddle tanks siliconed in like that you're gonna have a hard time getting the support brace bolts in place. UAT goes as close to the nose as you can get it to help with balancing.

I left about 15 mm of space between the bulkhead and the saddle tanks. Should be enough for the brace, washer and nut.

I'll see how far up front I can get the UAT. Thanks

i put my fuel pump, smoke pump, ECU batt and Duralite batt all in the nose cone and had the UAT under the cockpit floor, balance worked out perfect.

OK. Thanks for the advice. I figured that the model neede weight in the nose, but I'm confident that I can put all my gear in the nose section to avoid having to use lead for balancing.

Today I was able to install some of the decals. The waterslide type needs to be sprayed with clear coat BEFORE they are put in water, so I didn't install them today, My working space was moved into the living room, due to the football games. (Soccer)

Ooops. Gotta clean up before the wife get home

Update.

Working mainly on the wings, have decided to instal the gear leg pod ply frame into the fiberglass mounding first and then trim it as required, it seems to provide a more sturdy method especially with the fixings to the wing.

I am unsing M3 bolts into blind nuts set below the wing surface on ply plates, the result seems solid and easy to remove (2 bolts)

Built and assembled the servo and air connection panel, which will get Aeropoxied into the wing once the gear is in and connected up, once this is done I will cut the corresponding shape out of the fuselage and install the opposite mating panel.

Tanks all assembled, to make sure things remain fitted I ground down some brass Festo barbed connectors (one side) and soldered them into the tank pipe ends, this gives a better purchase for the fuel pipe. All connections are wired.

Painted the inside of the wing area where the wheel retracts into to make it look a little more pleasing to the eye.

Now just waiting for glue to dry[]

Marc,
The split flap you had it on the wrong side. White be outside and red inside.

UAT tank

Tam, unfortunately this split flaps were taped on this way round so I assumed this was the scheme. If push comes to shove a little paint will remedy - I kind of like it but I would seeing as it's this way round now

I got some more work done on mine. Hoping to fly it next weekend. (Nov. 10th)

Stig

looking at your pics you only have two lines from the main tank, an in and an out, for me it worked best to have two vent lines out of the main tank, one feeding each header tank, it gave better filling without allot of main tank and UAT swelling and better even draining of the saddles.

Yes Stig, I would do this, it will make your fuel pump work easier and last longer.

It a must....The main tank can crack easy under high pressure when filling. This dual vent to saddle tanks at least reduce that problem.