Lewis

Most fit the cockpit to the frame.

I have a pattern for the frame ring, email me a fax number and I'll fax you a copy when I'm in the office. We use white plasti card from a model shop or Hobbycraft

Dave

Just finishing the Hawk. It took a while to build, but was nice to put together. Comp ARF gave me their cockpit kit for free as part of the combo deal. It was a large plastic bag full of white ABS plastic that split every time you tried to work with it. I decided to bin it, as it was not going to be easy to make it work. I have sheeted the floor of the canopy with black painted balsa & installed a head & shoulders jet pilot. Looks good.
My model is the black one & a lot of the panel lines had mold release residue in them. This proved difficult to remove. My solution was to rub black boot polish into all the lines, then polish it off. It also hides the seams. The finish now looks great.

Mine is coming together quite quickly now, it does go together well but you must remember this is a sport scale kit as I have a few issues with not being ableto apply all my decals(from Tayloe made decals)on the 2010 colour scheme as the fin has been painted incorrect so there is not enough black at the top of the fin to put the white lettering on, which is frustrating but I am not going to get it resprayed just for that. Also parts like the canopy frame should be black and is white, and the rear underside fins are not colour coded so need to get some paint mixed to match the blue, will post some photo's later, I am fitting the der jet cockpit which should look good.</p>

Lewis,
Sounds like we are both building the same version of the Hawk and have come across the same issues with the paint. I am in the process of re-spraying the cockpit frame black and will then fit the Der Jet cockpit. I guess you are ahead of me, so let me know of any other issues you find. It's good to see that some of the issues of the early kits have been sorted, eg carbon bellmouth not fitting the jet pipe, so hopefully the build will be simple

Roger

Guys

I can talk to Ralle, I'm sure he can reduce the size on the lettering on the fin to fit. Even on Simon's painted Graupner Hawk they were too big!

Dave

Hi Roger

Not sure about being ahead just doing some of the messy bits, I have not decided yet on repainting the canopy, I have been messing about with the inside of the canopy at the moment so that I can fit the derjet tubs, had to make some rails, trying to upload some picts but need to work out how

Dave- The black area is tiny, so I don't think shrinking the lettering will work

Will try and find some pixs on the cockpit fitting. Several have done it.
Will look at fin and see!

D

Dave,

Here is the CARF Hawk and full size and you can see the paint scheme on the model is quite wrong. I hope the pictures have uploaded

Roger

I have used the Skymaster scale cockpit kit on my carf Hawk.

Very easy to fit,just need a 3/8th x 1/8th balarail glued to the upper inside edge of the frame.I then painted the balsa rails and inside of frame matt black.

The SM cockpit kit comes in two halves and the ABS tub is already reinforced with lightweight glass cloth.Just trimmed the edges to fit inside the frame and glued with ZAP A-Dap GOO.

I bought a 1/5th scale red arrows pliot with scale flight suit from Fighteraces .co.uk cost about &pound;90.00. Be carefull to mount all your radio/ecu etc.as low as possible to clear the cockpit base.

Phil.

Just trying to upload some pice of my Carf Hawk scale canopy.</p>

Roger

Got some images up at last, as you will see I am trying to make some air scoops for the top as well, one way or another this project is not going to be a scale model just making it look as near as possible.

Also here are a couple of cockpit shots, I have gone for a similar method to Phil, the front end needs some chopping about to make it fit but will be ok once finished, I think I have made hard work of this part.

Lewis,

Are you going to mould the air scoops, or leave them as solid wood? I will probably do what you have done on the fin and not fit the white lettering as there just isn't enough room. I've sprayed the canopy frame black so the next task will be to fit the glazing. My cockpit tubs will be fitted in the same way as Phil's, using silicone and Zap a dap a goop. It's a shame that CARF weren't more particular about the spraying of the scheme, but it is a sports jet after all

Roger

Hi Roger

I thought about sealing them with resin and painting, I have had some spray made up to colour match the red, also the blue as the rear underside fins I am going to paint these blue, it will be too much hassle to do them in all three colours to follow the lines through, I think it should look ok, you could spend forever on these things and for a sprts model its not that critical. Going to by a Skygate/Airworld one next

Here are some mods I have done to my Hawk sports landing gear.

I have added (drilled and tapped) a 3mm allen bolt to bottom of main led just at the pivot and then ground it with a dremel to limit travel on the trailing arms to 45deg.
Before the trailing link could deflect up to 90 deg. on a heavy landing wiping off the attached doors.(thanks Dave W. for the tip)

I have also added 10mm balsa sheet shaped to an aerofoil to try and create inward lift to the doors to aid retraction on take off.

I havn't had a chance to test this properely so far as could only maintain 80 psi in my system this year so farso it was always roll inverted and clime slowly inverted and then retract which always worked.

I am replumbing my entire system this winter.Spliting the door and gear on to two seperate circuits as I have three tanks anyway.Also decided to use Festo 3mm tubing and not BVM as the I.D. on the Festo tubing is larger and hope with the new large dia. retract cylinders (25 mm) this will cure the retract problem some of us have had.

Phil.

Pixs of DerJet Cockpit-Removable method by M&R team pilot Rob Westwater.

Deleted

My kit didn't have the rudder hinge rod included so, i picked up some 5/64" music wire at the hobby shop, fits perfect but, what's the prefered method of securing it? I can't see that in any of the pics or instructions.

TIA

Mike

Mike,

I just made a small round hole in the top of the fin and pushed the rod in about 12mm.It is held captive at the bottom by the AF tailplane cover.

Phil.

Mike

I just drilled 1mm hole next to rudder pin and screwed in a hex servo screw the flange covers the pin to retain it, plus it makes for easy removal of the rudder.

The rod was missing from my kit and no it was not taped anywhere in the box as I cut box up afterwards to fit it in the rubbish! I have used a 2mm carbon rod which is actually a better fit than 2mm welding wire as the carbon is slightly oversize etc

Can anyone see a problem with using a carbon rod instead of steel?

Alan

Mike

I bent the lower end 90 degrees and fixed it to the rudder. Some people simply dimple each end a place a dot of aeropoxy to stop it moving.

Dave

Here is another mod I did to my Hawk.

Due to my own faultI glued the rear elevator servo mount to the wrong side of the plywoodmounting plate (big c**k up) so I decided to make a new mount from 3mm GRP sheet and use model car lightweight alloy servo mounts(K-Facory) instead.I have cut lightening holes under the servos and the end result is both light and strong.

I have also used the excellent Spektrum A6030 high torque digital servos(made by Savox).These units have 20kg torque and titanium gear train anmd are very good value,fast and accurate.

I have also just weighed my scale cockpit/canopy unit and it weighs 1kg (2.2 lbs). I have no additional nose weight but I still think my model is a touch nose heavey as although it flies great it tends to drop its nose a little in turns and also needs quite a bit of down elevatorto fly level inverted.

So on the next outing I will move the CG back about 10mm and see it that improves things.

Phil.

hello dave hate to bother you again but did you get the info i sent you on the hawk gear cylinders.. just was wondering if there was a way you can help me get these.. thanks pat

I have been waiting for replacement cylinders for two months. Was told they shipped a month ago, no cylinders. They seem to get to the Europeans okay, but not to the states. I guess we are to far away to worry about. This is going to affect my choice when buying my next jet I can tell you. Very frustrating to have to fly inverted to retract my gear.

Jeff

Pat

How did you contact me, by email?

regards

Dave