Yes tailor made decals on my Red Arrow and Trevor's 90th Anni versions too. Self adhesive and sealed. Clean the model and apply-superb detail too.

Does not need 160 power, For scale flying a P120 (28-30lb) is fine, 160 you need to really throttle back or the Hawk looks like a Bandit!

Dave W

Did any of you who have flown the Hawk have to make any up/down thrust adjustments to curb any tendencies to nose up/down with variations of throttle position?

Geh3, I noticed with your Wren installation, you cutaway the stock mounts and raised the turbine in the mount. Was this due to a differing mount height from most turbines?

Thanks

Jeff

The Wren 160 has a large diameter SO I didn't want it to hit the wing, so I mounted it that way...it works fine mounted that way

Jeff

Our findings are showing a need to mount the turbine higher in the fuselage, certainly does not need packing as the instructions (these are being changed) and if anything I think cutting the 6mm mount to allow the turbine (JetCat) to be mounted flush with the top side of the mounting rails. Flown with scale throttle settings the climb is not noticed-but it is there when the throttle is firewalled.

Dave W

If you put a small channel in the top of the wing ( like the Flash) then a turbine like the 160 can go right on the rails...
the plane flys great however..as it is

NOTE: I just noticed a sort of warning on another brand of Hawk warning against turning too tight or with some flap down on final landing leg as that version will snap roll badly and may be unrecoverable!

Thanks for info on relocating turbine higher Dave.

I bought the comp arf because of the reports I read about the other brands tip stalling tendencies.

G

The JetCat turbines all fit without any mods, but for a neutral trim at all power it likes a higher turbine. It's being picky!

Pix of the first Hawk cockpit set from CARF, all the parts for two seats, pilots, dashes.

Dw

I bought the sport gear that is made for the Hawk. Having never messed with jets before I am trying to determine the tubing size required for the retracts. I mic'd the stem and it measured just under 3mm. Is this considered a 3mm barb and should I use 3mm tubing?

What did you all use?

Jeff

Jeff

Some people use JetCat 4mm clear fuel tubing for the retracts, I used Festo 3mm tube. One thing we found with the Jet Tronic retract valve is that if you use the larger tube there seems to be a pressure drop just after the valve fires. My model the gear goes up cleanly, Trevor Skedge's identical model with 4mm tube rather than the 3mm I used, is slow to get the main gear away because the door covers are at quite an angle out, which tries to keep the legs down. Quite a lot of pressure is needed to pull them away if the speed has built up.
If you use a UP valve (UP3) with std robart type tube it seems to be fine-I test flew a Hawk like this and the gear went away cleanly, but you will need to step up the tube to go onto the retract units.

Dave

Andy Scholl, what size tank do you have in your Hawk with the P160SX. In your video you fly about 10 min. at what seems to be fairly aggressive throttle setting.

I bought the tank that Comp ARF sells with the package and will be using a Wren 160 and am curious what kind of flight time I can expect with the stock tank.

Jeff

Jeff

I now fly 12 minutes with the P120Sx and scale flying and still land with 1/4 tank! I think even with sport flying on your Wren 10 minutes is easily possible...we think the tank is bigger than 3.2ltr, but I have not had a chance to check.

Dave

i build the Hawk from andy

the tank is a Boomerang tank with almost a gallon of fuel , i mounted that one in top of the fuselage.
the smoke tanks are below that and hold another 2 liters of smoke fuel.
works perfect

Dave, Andy and others, I notice you have your main gear wheel doors stay open when the gear are down. Dave, I remember reading a comment of yours that said you hit the doors on the ground on one harder landing. If this is possible, would you recommend retracting them ehan the gear is down to avoid this problem? I will use UP valves and this seems easy to accomplish.

What say you?

Man, the dual nose gear doors were a pain to install and get the proper clearances for them to work! I ended up making my own hinges from fiberglass sheet instead of using the wire rod and tubing. I could not get them to work properly and fit the curvatures the way I wanted.

Next is the main doors. They should be easier[]

Jeff

Jeff

I wasn't talking about the main inner doors! it was the leg doors that hit. The Full size Hawk has the inner doors down. it looks wrong without!
You could use a UP 2 and close them, but it's not the inners that touch. The Sports gear mains need a bump stop, its on my to do list.

regards

Dave

OH, I thought it was the main doors! Well that will save a valve.

Let us know what you do on the bump stop.

Jeff

Here are some picks of what I did for hinges on the nose gear doors. I can easily remove these also.

Jeff

Here's the pics

Jeff

Very neat work, there are always three or four ways of doing the same thing!



regards

Dave

Fuel tank position "at the CG" NOT! Have you all mounted the tank as the instructions says and are happy with that? Around 15% of the tank is behind CG and therefore 85% is font of the CG. This is for the C-ARF tank and the 190mm CG in the instructions. When you also move your CG back an inch the problem get worse. It is possible to mount it more aft if preffered and get it nearer to the CG.
Waste of time or not?

The tank as instructions and position is fine.

Dave

Hey guys, going to fly my CARF Hawk this weekend, everybody still ok with the 190mm CG...

It's very easy going, between 185 and 190 seems to be peoples favourite position.

Enjoy, its a great aeroplane. With the 190mm C of G some people are running 1 /16 down elevator on full flap. I have none on mine.

Dave Wilshere

Dave thanks, I'll post some pictures this weekend..

Anyone here anything about the availability of the cockpit tube?

Jeff

Tub is available now-on site

regards

Dave