Nickrummy

The problem with your gear being moved back about 1/16 is because you are using the MT2 flywheel. The MT2 flywheel moves the clutch bell further back. Get the MT1 flywheel to correct this problem, plus it is lighter then the one you have installed in your pictures (MT2 flywheel). You could also put spacers washers between your current flywheel and engine bearing to solve this problem but that can get touchy some times. The flywheel has to fit snug on the brass wedge washer so it will spin true and stay balanced. By putting too many spacer washers it can throw off the balance and your flywheel will work its way loose causing chewed up gears or worse destroy your engine bearing.

As for the brake conversion in the front of the spur gear it will not work on the MT2 without modifications. The MT1 will accept brakes in the front or the rear of the spur gear with no mods. I used to have a dual brake setup on my MT1 but it was unnecessary and it added more rotating mass and brake drag, so I went back to the single brake setup. I did have a big block converted MT2 that had to have the brake disk setup in the front of the spur gear but I do not remember how it was setup and what was modified to make it work. I might have pictures of it but I will have to check and post it later if I find them.

do you have to get the engine mounts if you wanna get the OS .18 CV-RX...... and what size ar the screws that keep the exhaust mounted to the engine?

sweet so all i need is a mt1 radio tray and i make a dual brake system

THey are right, I have the MT1 and didn't have to move anything to get that linkage working.

Interesting about the flywheel. The first flywheel I used was from a .15fe..... maybe it was the newer version. I did buy another flywheel but it wasn't the right one. It didn't have a spot for the brass collet, it just had a flat spot in it. I bought a lightweight flywheel thats smaller for non pull start. Can I use that and it will fix my gear spacing? I know I have to get a different motor mount that is about 4-5mm lower. Will lowering the motor mess with gear mesh also?

Also, I was reading up some people using buggy shocks on their mt. Has anyone done this? I measured the ones on there and the rears seem to be about 100mm and the fronts are around 85mm. I want to use 100mm in the front and 110mm in the rear (using the furthest mounting locations)

Keep your eyes out for a new video. Just got done bashing around some local dirt jumps

Here is the video. I just beat the truck up a bit at some local dirt jumps (a lot smaller than I remembered)

Sorry for the video quality. I'll have to try and resave it as something better.

http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v4...nt=MTVideo.flv

do you need to get engine mounts for an OS .18 CV-RX pull start??? and are there any other things i need changed on my mt2??

Hey guys hows it going man i wish i had my camcorder for this one beat your truck .com is right i let my buddy drive my mt2 alloy hopped up street runner fullout throttle sindways curb hit thing climbed the curve doing a super 360:degree . corkscrew threw the air lands on it wheels all the time at full throttle because the throttle arm desides to pop off i grab the transmitter from him well actual he passis it to me, rip threw the grass trying to manouver around trees and branches get her back too me and guess what no damage awesome man, scrapes on the front chassis maybe straightened her out abit from all my other bashing sessions, cool really got me big on what others say about alloy man plastics would have been in peices not to mention the hole truck you had to be there .Man that was awesome ,blood still pumping.

yeh you have to get engine mounts for the CV-RX.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXN373&P=ML

That should be enough to make it a drop in motor as long as the pull start fits. I used the CV-R with no pull start.

that was awesome ,i,m going to do some too, snow bashing this winter at the local bmx track no bmx there then all out beat your truck nitronut style lol i,ll post some vids later

man it was a blast bashing. I had to end early because my receiver pack died earlier than I thought it was going too.

Truck ran perfect, Only problem is that I have to adjust the shift point, it was shifting to 2nd way to early. You can hear it shifting on the pavement. Not even getting out of a turn and its in second already. It struggles getting traction on hard launches. I'm not sure if its because of the open diffs or not. Anybody know how to get some better traction from the rear end? ball diff help out?

I would recommend these instead where as these have more mounting adjustment holes as the other gray cheaper ones do not used for meshing an allignment http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXCLR3&P=M

no sorry cant help you out there

thats a drag when batteries dye i always carry spares now,well i,m only running eveready nimh 2500 right now,cant seem to deside what hump pack i want for my receiver so many choices.but yeah cool vid

Thanks, you still get the same mesh adjustment out of both of those motor mounts. The purple ones are just pretty

oh heard some have had problems for meshing with that cheeper brand tho just saying

MOVE BRAKES TO FRONT: I don't know for fact, but from the looks of it, if you want to convert to a MT1 radio tray, it takes a whole lot more than just the tray. By my eye it takes:

Radio Tray
Upper Deck
Front brace (upper deck/steering posts to front diff)
Rear brace (upperdeck to rear diff)
Radio tray rear "hinge"
Radio tray tabs (front and mid to hold it in)

And maybe more?


Alternatively, it looks like it just takes a bit of dremel work if you want to use the MT2 tray? Don't know, I don't have an MT2. What is holding back from mounting the brakes in the front?

I did not look ahead to see if this was answered but the only way I know right off hand to get the diff shims is with the diff cup. Here is a link.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXTB43&P=Z

I know I am coming in on this conversation late but I much prefer the purple engine mounts as one they are made of solid stock where the others are cast and two they have 5 mounting holes instead of 4 to the chassis.

46u,

i'm looking to swap over to SS suspension components. Didn't you swap over on your MT1? did you get shock towers from the SS? If you did, did you also get the SS upper deck and tranny parts? I'm listing out parts but it keeps going. Seems that the body posts and shock tower braces have to be swapped out too. If they are swapped out do you have to get new diff housings too for the shock towers to mount to? I'm just trying to figure out that parts needed......

Suspension
One of the biggest advantages the Nitro MT 2 has over the original Nitro MT is in the suspension. Longer front arms plus longer front and rear shocks provide a plush, smooth ride that allow the Nitro MT 2 to roll over just about anything. Upgrading the front end is easy ? you just need a few parts:

Front Suspension
85074 Suspension Arm Set (2 required)
85076 Front Upright Set
A280 Flange Shaft Set (use A284 3x30mm flange shafts)
Z242 E-Clips 2mm

Each #85074 Suspension Arm Set includes one front and one rear suspension arm, so you can upgrade your rear suspension arms at the same time. While the measurements of the rear arms are the same, they are much tougher and more durable.

To really upgrade the front suspension, you will need the longer front shocks of the Nitro MT 2. You can just move your Nitro MT?s rear shocks to the front, since the front Nitro MT 2 shocks are the same length as the rear Nitro MT shocks. This of course would require you to get a new pair of rear shocks:

Rear Shocks
86168 Flange Shaft 3x33mm
Z224 Washer M3x8x0.5
A716 Sport Shock Set (77-117mm)

The new Nitro MT 2 shocks have an improved design, with a bottom cap that threads on and will not ?pop off? when landing huge jumps. You can also get the front Nitro MT 2 shocks with the threaded bottom cap:

Front Shocks
A715 Sport Shock Set (70-103mm)


Front Bumper
While you?re upgrading the front end and it?s all taken apart, you can go ahead and upgrade the front bumper to the new brush guard style bumper. This is one of the most prominent outward features of the Nitro MT 2 and does help protect the front end in crashes and tumbles. Here are the parts necessary to update the front bumper:

Front Bumper
85071 Shock Tower Set
85072 Lower Mount Set
85073 Front Bumper Set
Z571 TP. Binder Head Screw M3x20mm
Z567 TP. Binder Head Screw M3x10mm


Slipper Clutch
The Nitro MT 2 slipper clutch is a new design using Savage monster truck parts and is made to slip less than the older optional slipper clutch. The Nitro MT 2 slipper clutch includes a new spur gear, however you must use the drive cups from your Nitro MT.

New Slipper Clutch
87138 Slipper Clutch Set



Drivetrain
The Nitro MT 2 features thicker dogbones, which in turn requires larger drive cups, diff shafts and axles. All of these components have been strengthened on the new truck to make sure they can handle the power of the new Nitro Star T-15 engine. While it is possible to upgrade the drivetrain of your Nitro MT to the specs of the Nitro MT 2, if you plan to upgrade all the suspension and drivetrain components, it would be cheaper (and much easier) to purchase a complete Nitro MT 2 truck, which would give you all-new parts plus all the updates in one preassembled truck.

However, for the Nitro MT owner who wants to upgrade a little at a time, we will list the parts necessary to update the drivetrain of the Nitro MT 2:

Drive Train
86225 Cup Joint 7x19mm (D Cut)
86226 Gear Shaft 5x38x7mm (2 required)
86227 Diff Shaft 5x26x7mm (2 required)
86228 Axle 5x36x7mm
86229 Axle 5x41x7mm
86230 Dogbone 7x86mm (2 required)
86232 Dogbone 7x83mm
86233 Dogbone 7x57mm
86234 Cup Joint 7x19mm

I am running the MT1 radio box and upper deck. I have installed the 100cc thank that HPI said would not fit but with a little modifying it will. The above is an old article off HPI web site shortly after the MT 2 came out.

well it looks like i was on the right track then. I was at around $150 to upgrade all the suspension components and get MIP CVD's. that did not include getting the new shocks. Does the mt2 have the same parts as the 18ss only the 18ss has the better motor?

Also, how is the 18ss motor compared to the CV-R? would it be a good idea to just get a 18ss kit and sell the 18ss motor and drop my cv-r into it? I can get a good amount back for my MT1 roller and 18ss motor.

DO NOT GET THE MPI CVD’s get the MT2 SS instead!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! They do no have set screws and do not break pins or loose setscrews! Been through the whole MPI deal and will never go back. The 18SS has a WHOLE lot of up grades that dose not come on the RTR. The SS has all the heavy-duty drive train. Best thing to do is go to HPI web site for all the information. When I did mine I up graded to all SS drive train.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXHLX5&P=Z
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...=++&search3=Go

All so do not use grease on any of the drive train as it attracts too much dirt use this instead.
http://www.performancelubricant.dupo...cts_multi.html

hey guys... here's what i should be getting in the next week, I just ordered this stuff from tower hobbies... courtesy of my grandpa for my b-day! lol... here's what I got...

Airtronics MX-A 2-Channel AM/1 94102Z Servo 90
HPI Exhaust Gasket Set
O.S. .18 CV-RX w/11J Rotary Carb
HPI Brass Collet w/Washer 7x5mm
HPI Binder Head Screw M3x8mm E-Savage
HPI Silicone Exhaust Coupling 12x18x30mm Purple
Golden Horizons Fuel Filter Silver
HPI Racing Fuel Tank 100cc Nitro MT2

that should be a good start and good setup right? LMK what you thing... it's goin straight into the mt2.... btw... mine came with cvds.. all the way around...and the aluminum motor mounts...

i had trouble running mip's as well. i don't know what the deal is, i threadlocked the set screws and everything but still threw out an entire mip driveshaft after maybe my 5th run with them or so. i couldn't even find the thing. but so many people say that they are excelent??? gets me.