MTNitronut, I have a spare 3.3 engine just have'nt got around to pm you the cost lol...will do soon though.

OH...urm, PM me your budget too bro...might be able to sort something out.

hey guys hows the gpm stuff ?

It is cast and I do not like what little I have tried or seen. In my opinion billet is the only way to go. I run VERY little alloy do to weight and passing breakage to other places.

then were can i get some billet stuff thats not going to break the bank

hey guys
i called my LHS and my alum steering pieces are hot bodies.
don`t know if they are cast or billet.
i`m going to pick them up in the morning.
hey 46u
what to you think on alum a arms??
i`m not worried about weight just the play i`m getting in the stock
plastic ones.

You know the old saying and most but not all the time it is true you get what you pay for.

I am not trying to tell people what to do because every ones situation and uses are different. I just pass on my experience and opinions. I am going to pass on two dealings with alloy.

On my MT 1 before I up dated to all most MT 2 SS specifications I made it just about all alloy. A arms, A arm mounts, hubs, diff cases and so on. I hit a mailbox post and do to the breakage passing on to the next weakest point it bent my chassis. To me it is much easier and cheaper to replace plastic parts as well as plastic has some give with out breaking or bending.

On my Mini-Z F1’s I had trouble with my front axels coming out of the knuckles so I went alloy. Then I started breaking tie rods so I went alloy on them and then I started stripping servo gears. So I found out it was cheaper and easier to either replace or glue the axels in the knuckles.

As far as some play in the A arms if you are running on road I can see where this will make a difference but not on off road or not near as much. Now I said some not excessive! But if you want to run alloy that is all up to the user but I have seen plenty of alloy bend and or break which is much more expensive to replace as well as heavy if you race. But one thing is for sure alloy looks GOOD.

Actually guys I have to say that I 100% agree with him on that...I have alum arms only when I run onroad, but when I go off road i chnge alot of things to accomodate the give in the whole line. Plastic arms are lighter, cheaper to replace and are better to bash with as when you bend an A-arm, its buggered until you either bend it back (by which time its stretched and its strength is gone) and then its easier to replace a platic part.

On raod i use teh alum A-arms to give more weight on the front as well as hump pack to keep the front weighted down...I use it for the lights too.

Use the plastic and a combination of alum, CF and plastic in the strategic areas that will benefit either bashing or race - the two are totally different though.

Anyway MTNitronut, here is a link to some great parts...some are great, some are good and some are GPM. The GPM piggy back shocks though are good, and some of the other stuff is just heavy weak crap...but have a look though. The Hot Racing stuff is very good. Ill post a link later when I find it to some VERY good billet C-cups and other nescessery parts for alum.

Link: http://www.liquidrc.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=1013905

SIM2U where is this company located? I quickly look on their site but could not find it. With a motor like Sim2u runs weight does not make as big of a difference. What class do you run as I am guessing they have a unlimited class to be able to run a BB in a stadium truck. Where I run you have to run a small block.

I found out where they are located. Thanks any ways. Just wonder if they take direct credit cards, as I do not use pay pal with all their problems.

No I had to use bloody pay pal too...I hate that company. But I just made a $300.purchase for some very good revo parts...it was a one off. but if you live in the US its credit card no probs I would guess.

Actually 46u, with the truck, at the speeds I go, even with the Hyper .21, it will flip sooner than you think so I had to seriously weight it down. I race that monster on a big track that uses 2speeds and its not a traditional race as you would like to call as such. Its re-modded for the track of course. Then i change it all back and race it on the track...that thing will do some very serious speed with its gearing, tyres and engine...its scary sometime as I think Ill smash it in the wall with the smallest twist of the nob...brown pants time.

Yeah most traditional races would like you to race with the engine that it came with or a max of an .18 - the TM EB modded OS .18 would serisouly rip as a race engine in that class.

Im looking through the thread now...there was a post back somewhere that had GREAT billet peices. thought that i saved the link but I did'nt so I have to search for it....

HA HA HA...success...check out this link. They have the billet and are VERY cool: http://www.rc-edit.com/products.php?prefix=ED01&lang=en

MAN...that took about an hour...bed time.[:'(]

I thought the TZ modified had more power then the TM modified? I have none modified TZ new in the box but just concerned it might be too much for the track I run. I guess I could dial the throttle down on the TX. I have it so I am going to give it a try this winter when I get my buggy and get it running. I have an old OS .15 CV-RX in mine right now and it is not all that fast but the truck handles so well I have won 2 out of 4 races.

I seen pictures of their stuff before and it looks really good! Now if they would just get a distributor in the US.

Yeah its not always the power but the set up - the devils in the details s they say. Im am honestly not sure which is more powerfull the TM or the TZ...I mean I have neither, just seen some here and there and haev never had the need at this point to know the exact power, weight, rpm ,torque...ETC details as such. But equally both would be great engines for the track. i dont think that either would be too powerfull once you have made teh nescessery changes though. You might have to change the CB and SG set up and some other small things here and there.

I think there is a place you can get them from but at this point I am not too sure...Ill try and find out later.

They just made our local track more then twice as big so I am going to give the TZ a try as I have it and it is not doing any good just sitting in the box. Have to get my money out of it some how.

Ohh, thats its...have to get some sleep. i have to get up in like 5 hours and do mountain bike run at like 7:30 in the morning...later guys

Put that little beast in there 46U with a smile and run rampant mate.

hey 46u
i hear where your coming from.
yes thats the problem i`m having when
i run on the street with proline wheels and tires.
the front wheels shake like crazy.
i was hoping to use this truck for both.
on road and off road.
maybe i`ll just use this truck for off road and get
myself a real on road car.
so now i need to get a good all around on road car.
damm!!!! mo money
any thoughts on a good on road car??????

Do not know much about on road cars. The only nitro on road I have is and Ofna Colt F1 that I have only run once. I have a couple electric open wheel cars manly because I like F1 and GP racing. Then I have my Mini-Z F1’s I run on my RCP track in the house. I have been told HPI makes very good on road cars. Might do better to go to the nitro on road car thread. Here is some of my Mini Z’s and part of my track, as I do not have room to set it all up.