I just found and read this post with alot of interest as a set of plans for the Typhoon 2+2 were given to me and there is now a fuse setting in a jig. Can anyone tell me what is the difference between the 2+2 and the 2000.

Forgot to ask well the cowl for the 2000 fit the 2+2 ?

The Typhoon 2000 has both wider and higher fuselage. No the cowl won't fit. Check out Radio South for the Typhoon 2+2 cowl.

sigk : thanks for the fast reply and the information. Gator RC said they have the canopy but not the cowl.

KJGOFF: you should check out this thread too. There's a lot of info on building the Typhoon:

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_41.../tm.htm#418054

I case the link does not work, the name of the thread is "2 meter plans"

I had a 2+2. It didn't fly today's higher level schedules all that well, but will do fine in Sportsman and iNETERMEDIATE. In my opinion, the 2000 is a much better flier for today's schedules FROM aDVANCED ON.

MattK

Matt, would you mind sharing some of your thoughts on building the 2+2 and any changes you'd recommend and/or pitfalls to look out for?

Mark the 2+2 wasn't built by me. I bought it from a well known pilot who did an average job with it. I was out of time and needed something fast so I got what I bargained for. Never again will I buy on someone's reputation.

Having said that, I would say the model is overdesigned and can turn out heavy if you aren't careful with wood selection. This model was barely in spec. There are many areas where weight could be saved. There areseveral places for example where the say to use wood planking. Don't do it. Wet a balsasheet and tape it down over the structure, let it dry to mold itself, then glue it down.

The fuse is shown to have several formers aft of the wing. That many are not necessary if you glass the fuse. The whole fuse shell is shown to be 1/8" balsa. I would only use 1/8" on the sides medium grade, and either 3/32" or 1/16 everywhere else, contest grade.

Wing is huge at a full 2 meter span and over 1100 sqin. I would reduce both the span and the area down to at most 1000. The stab is much too large to begin with at about 30% of the wing. I would reduce that down to around 25%. These two changes alone will make a very spirited performer. If you really want good rudder response and authority, it would be an improvement to add fuse depth around the cg. The extra side area will make rudder more effective. If you go with fixed landing gear that will add some side area.

good luck

MattK

I'm installing the elevator and rudder servos behind F-4 and the battery also. It is rather tight to get to the elevator servo in there, but I will need the weight back there.

To get the curve right at the front end I'm using Mike's advise to add one more former between F1 and F2.

Just for comparison and to know how much it would weight I also cut the front end from foam, but then it is a straight line.
Weighted 18 gr

Sig, I've been meaning to ask you what is the procedure for gluing the paper to the foam parts you've cut out? Are you going to be glassing the fuselage afterward or using plastic film?

bokuda thanks for the link it makes for some alot information got a be the best trend i've read. The 2+2 plans where given to me and it's started at least the fuse is. MATTK I've already got 3/32 balsa for top&bottom of fuse, but have not cut the first rib and now hope you could explain the mods to the wing and stab,and thinking of modifing the fin and rudder to have a counterbalance. This plane is not for any contests but a starter to lean pattern on plus I just love to build them.

KJGOFF, I am not certain why you wish to add a counterbalanced rudder. If you plan to statically balance the rudder, that's one easy way to do it. But build the rudder as light as you can If you want the model to have a different knife edge character, that's another reason. If you just like the look, that's another. Generally, adding a CB on the rudder will have an aerodynamic effect. It adds control area above the refence line which will induce more yaw when actuated as well as roll. I suggest you go easy on the amount you add.

On the other hand you may stay with stock rudder and fin and try adding fixed gear rather than retracts. That automatically adds side area where it is needed for a greater rudder effectiveness.

The wing is very large and will tend to perform things like snaps or spins almost sluggishly. That may be fine for your style of flying so it really depends on what YOU want the model to do.

If I was to re-design the model I would reduce the span down to around 74", reduce the tip chord to about 8" and keep the root chord the same. I would increase the thickness to around 12% to offset the reduced drag of the smaller wing, and to allow for other mechanical advantages. Stab area reduction would also have to be done, down to around 250 sq inches give or take. The stab span would be reduced to around 35-40% of the wing span. But that's me, and I would be re-designing with a different purpose in mind: F3A pattern.

regards
mattK

That's pretty much what I did to the the T2K, making it a Tempest I kept the wing at 10% though and it seems to work fine. But almost every other number you just stated is almost identical. I also made the elevator slightly larger, but downsized the stab a good bit.

I can say for a fact it makes this plane snap ridiculously nice. I do have to carry a little more speed though, but it's not noticable to anyone but me. At least I don't think so.

It worked. We'll see how well this weekend I suppose. Jeez I need more practice...

-Mike

Too bad I can't make it Mikey. It should be good if weather co-operates. I am elbow deep in paint

MarkGrabowski, I'm doing it the old fashion way, just pressed on in the off cuts with clamps, just the same like if balsa where used except, you need wax paper so it won't get stuck in the off cuts.
I will be using plastic film with low application temperature.

The frame for the canopy is almost finished. Now I just have to sheet the front end and get the plane ready for covering.

Sig, do you apply epoxy to the paper first or to the foam part? I presume you're only applying a VERY thin coating of epoxy either way...

MarkGrabowski, yes I'm applying the glue on the paper first, it is the easiest way off doing it. When I first started I tended to spread too thin layer of glue because I wanted it to be as light as possible and got some spots where the paper wasn't glued on properly, then I used too much on the wings, now I'm slowly working my way back hoping I get it right someday.
This is my first time using paper for sheeting but the more I learn about it the more interesting it gets, and there are also different kind of paper I didn't know about that have been used, from the cheep wrapping paper to quality printing paper.
I have now paper in three thickness I would like to try, from 85gr sq,m to 135gr sq,m so my next Tempest wing will have 100gr sq,m paper for sheeting but instead of the hardwood spars I used for this one I will use a 2" wide strips of fiberglass cloth.
I also have two modified Typhoon wings waiting to be sheeted, will get to that when I find time. Trying the paper has been very enjoyable but it did set the CG a little off so using the light paper in the fuselage behind the CG turned out to be a complete nonsense. To get more weight in the back I have now cut new top and bottom pieces for my next fuselage and sheeted it with the heavier paper which is much stronger and should be more durable.

Other uses for the paper was to make a paper foam sandwich to support the elevator pushrod in few places along the way. Works also well to strengthen balsa sheets if glued on both sides and left to dry in a press.

Mike: what airfoil do you suggest for the modified wings? Just got compufoil3d, played with SD8020 but don't know if it well work right for this plane. I'm also having problems getting this file moved into autocad r14. Don't think that compufoil will copy a dxf file to a cd to that to a print shop to get plans for rib templates and wing planform.I can onlt get the ribs to autocad, no no wing layout.

I have sheeted the rest of the fuselage.

My plane is now ready for covering.

Mike,

Any news on the new design?

/Erik