Just curious, how do you retain the wing to the tube? What keeps it in place? Thanks for taking the time to answer my silly question.


In Christ,

Joel Chavez

GF copies of Gator Canopies Cowls and Cheeks.

Canopy ($15); full cowl & cheeks ($45) or chin cowl and cheeks ($25). I have two clear canopies from Radio South that I don´t need anybody wants them. ($19 each was the RS price).

So far we have 3 canopies, 3 chin cowls, 2 full cowls and 5 sets of cheeks.

Anybody else need anything before I put through the order to the local GF supplier?
Orders will take about 2 weeks. Recommended and most economical shipping would be by registered air mail from Mexico.

NB This in NO WAY attempts to compete with Gator, it is merely a short term solution until Gator deliveries resume (to Get Tempest and other Tk2 projects finished and flying) :-)

I will be interested in 2 cowls. Larry Please pm me.

Various methods Joel. Some use hooks on each root rib, which extend into the wing bay. An oring or rubber bands are then stretched connecting the hooks.

Others locate and tap holes outboard on each wing panel bottom, through the tube, and secure with bolts on each side. Usually a good idea to also add a wood block in the tube to help lock the bolt in place

Yet others simply reinforce the fuse sides a little more and drill through each side into the root ribs. Extra ply is used in the wing at the hole location, and the hole is tapped with a 1/4-20 thread usually. The bolt is installed through the fuse side into theroot rib.

All methods work fine as long as you have it in your set-up routine and you don't miss the securing part. If you forget, then wings have been known to fly off

MattK

Bokuda, a more advanced technique if you want the utmost in precision, is to cut the exact shapes you want to mold, into blocks of foam, making both the female and the male parts in foam first. Then wet the balsa really well, for a couple hours at least, until very pliable. Dry it with paper towels and then place the balsa in the "foam mold press" and let it dry overnight. Next night finish the iinstallation. The amount of internal structure this technique needs in very minimal.

Compound curves would be tough to do this way, but simpler shapes that can be accurately cut in foam, make prime candidates for molded balsa sections

For built up wings, the same technique may be used to actually mold the leading edges of the wing or stab. No balsa LE sticks are needed, the accuracy is terrific and the weight is the least possible.

MattK

Hi,

Sig, how is your plane coming? My wings and stabs are almost ready to cover .

Hi Attila
I just received the manifold for my engine from Just Engines so I will finish the pipe tunnel next. But there are a few fiber glass parts I like to try out and that is taking up some time.
I really enjoy seeing your plane coming together, nice work.

Any word on Gator Cowls?

I haven't heard anything yet. But admittedly, I have my head buried in a new project and haven't asked in a while. I'll see what I can find out.

-Mike

Did you get those molds done yet? If you would have the time later on, I think it would be great if you would describe the process. Or mostly the plug making process. Lots of info on how to make molds are available, but not much on how to make nice, perfectly symmetrical plugs.

/Erik

Dianna,
Of Gator R/C returned my call.. they now have canopy's ready to ship,But there is a problem at this time I'm told regarding the "cowl mold."

Any one have a full cowl:Tempest or Typhoon 2000 please let me knpw I have Pay Pal or will pay as you request.

[8D]

The plugs are not THAT hard, but require a LOT of time and work. I've been working on these since Christmas.

I now have all of the plugs done and waxed, and the canopy and cowl molds complete. All that is left is the belly pan, and it's going to be a mother.

I REALLY have to thank Matt K, but I also have to add that I must have done something right, because the plugs just popped right out undamaged [8D] I only hope the belly pan goes as well.

As far as alignment, well they're good but not perfect. I'm have the first test pieces curing in the molds as I type this, so we'll see. I may be good to go, or I may have to start over on something.

I'll go into detail about making the plugs in a later post. But the finish is crucial, that much I will say up front If it doesn't look like glass, you're heading for a migraine.

-Mike

If anyone has a cowl with cheeks that is uncut I can make a mold off of it and we are back in business. I have made several Fuse molds and fiberglass fuselages and helicopter canopies. A picture is in my gallery

HAHA!

That's great Mike. If you haven't chosen a name for your roach yet, may I suggest Raider?

I just think it's funny, maybe just my warped sense of humor I guess. The word "roach" is about to be turned into a battle cry [8D]

As for the sig, I thought it might be time for something a little lighter. And it just sort of fits my mood right now. hehe.

-Mike

Quick update:

I thought you might all like to see how the new stuff is coming along. I'm playing with the composition of the layup to get the stiffness and weight right, but so far the molds are better than I had hoped. The canopy is perfect and has no seam, and the cowl looks even better. If I can get this belly pan reasonable, then I'm in the home stretch.

Working my tail off here.

-Mike

Rodney: I will buy 2 full cowls with cheeks to be shipped together. Please let me know total amount and how to pay you. I'm in Massachusetts.

Thanks, Dave Wartel
[email protected]

Rodney,

I will also buy 2 cowls. I am in Colorado.

OK. So far we have confirmed orders for full cowls and cheeks: 2 for Dave and 2 for Larry. Anybody else?

Rodney,
I will take one full cowl with cheeks and one canopy.
Thanks -
Richard[8D]

Nice job Mike. From the photos, Isee you have really been at it

Matt

Hi,

I glued on the cowling, and made the canopy frame. It needs some filling and sanding now.

Attila

Here is an update on my paperplane.
Like the rest of it, the pipe tunnel was sheeted with paper.

I like using the paper but must be careful when sanding, using masking tape is sometimes essential, otherwise I can sand trough the paper in a heartbeat.