Excelleron 90
#254

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From: Hastings, NE
In reply to Greg:
As long as your servo's arm is parallel to the hinge line and the control rod is perpendicular to the arm at neutral, you should get any differential throw. That is as long as the pivot point is over the hinge line.
As long as your servo's arm is parallel to the hinge line and the control rod is perpendicular to the arm at neutral, you should get any differential throw. That is as long as the pivot point is over the hinge line.
#256
<I just ordered the F3A std Bolly gear is this the right gear for the YS 110 installation?>
The stock gear is 5.5" tall measuring from the landing gear tips to the base. The Bolly F3A-Std is 5.9" and the F3A-Large is 6.7" (I don't know if the are measured the same as I measured the stock gear). AeroBob said the Icepoint anding gear is 7.6" 7 /58" . My flying field is a little rough so I want all the clearance I can get. With the Icepoint gear and a 17" prop and maybe slightly larger wheels I should have close to 2" clearance. I would imagine with the YS 1.10 you will want to run a 16" or 17" prop also.
I was checking for clearance with the engine on the mount, the fuselage setting on the stock gear and then putting different sized blocks under the gear tips.
I just tried the setup with the stock gear and wheels and a 16" prop with the fuselage level there is .75 " of clearance so with a 17" prop you are down to .25" and the Bolly Std gear might add a .25" to that. Hard to tell exactly without the Bolly gear here.
Best regards,
Bill
The stock gear is 5.5" tall measuring from the landing gear tips to the base. The Bolly F3A-Std is 5.9" and the F3A-Large is 6.7" (I don't know if the are measured the same as I measured the stock gear). AeroBob said the Icepoint anding gear is 7.6" 7 /58" . My flying field is a little rough so I want all the clearance I can get. With the Icepoint gear and a 17" prop and maybe slightly larger wheels I should have close to 2" clearance. I would imagine with the YS 1.10 you will want to run a 16" or 17" prop also.
I was checking for clearance with the engine on the mount, the fuselage setting on the stock gear and then putting different sized blocks under the gear tips.
I just tried the setup with the stock gear and wheels and a 16" prop with the fuselage level there is .75 " of clearance so with a 17" prop you are down to .25" and the Bolly Std gear might add a .25" to that. Hard to tell exactly without the Bolly gear here.
Best regards,
Bill
#257
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From: El Reno, OK
I can confirm Bill's measurements of the stock gear. That's why I ordered the other. A 16" leaves VERY little 'bump' room for takeoff rollout...and certainly NOT good for taxiing, at least at my rough place.
#259

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From: DeQuincy,
LA
I'll have to measure my installed Bolly Large gear when I get home tonite.
There sure is lots of clearance
I've only tipped a prop once and it was on a goofed up landing that I bunced rather hard. I even managed to skuff a wingtip on that adventure
Eddie
There sure is lots of clearance
I've only tipped a prop once and it was on a goofed up landing that I bunced rather hard. I even managed to skuff a wingtip on that adventure
Eddie
#260
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From: Bedford,
MA
Hi Bob (and others that wish to comment too <grin>
,
Catching up from the holidays, I noticed that you balenced with the battery in the tail. Is that with the stock muffler or with the canister? I'm about the pull the trigger on the engine purchase, and oscillating between the ST 2300 (w/header + cansistor) or an OS 1.08 (using stock muffler). Cost differential seems similar ($149 + ~$100ish for ST 2300 and header + canister or $249 for OS 1.08). As I'm just a novice pattern flyer, maybe just simple would be best until I learn how to fly smoothly. Can you provide some guidance, would the OS 1.08 be enough for the verticals I need through the first two levels?
As I fly off a rough grass field, would you think it better to use larger wheels (for prop clearence and smooth rolling over grass) or just get the taller gear and keep the same size wheels?
Cheers,
Greg.
,Catching up from the holidays, I noticed that you balenced with the battery in the tail. Is that with the stock muffler or with the canister? I'm about the pull the trigger on the engine purchase, and oscillating between the ST 2300 (w/header + cansistor) or an OS 1.08 (using stock muffler). Cost differential seems similar ($149 + ~$100ish for ST 2300 and header + canister or $249 for OS 1.08). As I'm just a novice pattern flyer, maybe just simple would be best until I learn how to fly smoothly. Can you provide some guidance, would the OS 1.08 be enough for the verticals I need through the first two levels?
As I fly off a rough grass field, would you think it better to use larger wheels (for prop clearence and smooth rolling over grass) or just get the taller gear and keep the same size wheels?
Cheers,
Greg.
#261
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From: Palm Bay,
FL
Thanks Aerobob
I like a fully sheeted wing. I just got done punching the wheel pants through 4 unsheeted wing surfaces of my UCD 60. It now needs one rib and a patch job .
I never had a use for the UCD anyway.
Allie33
I like a fully sheeted wing. I just got done punching the wheel pants through 4 unsheeted wing surfaces of my UCD 60. It now needs one rib and a patch job .
I never had a use for the UCD anyway.
Allie33
#262
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From: El Reno, OK
I would NOT pull the trigger on the 1.08. It has WAY more weight, and not as much punch as the OS 91FX on a pipe - that is a certainty!
I am "biased" about the cost/value/power of the ST 2300....sorry....since I'm a "cheapus" (check my avatar caption)....it seems a slam dunk.
I am "biased" about the cost/value/power of the ST 2300....sorry....since I'm a "cheapus" (check my avatar caption)....it seems a slam dunk.
#263
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From: El Reno, OK
Header received. SLIGHTLY too "low", (close to LG), so...if you order a Mueller, get it 1 11/16, or even 3/4", but not MORE. It's pretty close in there fitting between the cowl and the LG crossplate. Course, if you put on 2 part CF gear, then that adds the clearance you'll need, and the 1 9/16" original measure will work just fine.
I tweaked mine just a skosh...pics show the evidence, but it will work just dandy!!!
I ran the thing, and YEEEE HAAA! OMG the power, the POWER....
Very sweet header... my coupler material worked just fine on it, too!
THank YOU Karl!!!!
I tweaked mine just a skosh...pics show the evidence, but it will work just dandy!!!
I ran the thing, and YEEEE HAAA! OMG the power, the POWER....
Very sweet header... my coupler material worked just fine on it, too!

THank YOU Karl!!!!
#265
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From: Bedford,
MA
Bob,
Forgot to ask, but what size KS canister did you use? Seems the sizes jump from 15cc (0.90in^3) to 30cc (1.8in^3), and the ST2300 (~1.4in^3) is just in the middle.
Greg.
Forgot to ask, but what size KS canister did you use? Seems the sizes jump from 15cc (0.90in^3) to 30cc (1.8in^3), and the ST2300 (~1.4in^3) is just in the middle.
Greg.
#266
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From: El Reno, OK
This is the one I have. Don't know if it's optimal, but it is very quiet. Significant amount of the noise in this setup is intake and prop. Exhaust is FAR below....
[link=http://www.krumscheid-metallwaren.de/html/gb-extrem-alumininum-schalld.html]KS 76-4[/link]
I think Desert Aircraft and/or Cactus Aviation carries these in the US.
[link=http://www.krumscheid-metallwaren.de/html/gb-extrem-alumininum-schalld.html]KS 76-4[/link]
I think Desert Aircraft and/or Cactus Aviation carries these in the US.
#267
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From: El Reno, OK
I have a full-size van, with both back doors open it will go in assembled, but that's not how I play with it. I'm a firm believer in disassembly to INSPECT. Particularly on this kind of over-powered ARF, and being so new.
Hopefully tomorrow/Sunday will get some stick time with it!
Can't wait!
Hopefully tomorrow/Sunday will get some stick time with it!
Can't wait!
#270
Bob,
Don't know what happened you should see the pic now. I ordered the Tiger Shark from,
http://www.atsrcplanes.com
Don't know what happened you should see the pic now. I ordered the Tiger Shark from,
http://www.atsrcplanes.com
#272
Bob,
Have not weighed it yet. Specs say 33.09oz. I am quite impressed with the looks of it and the stock muffler is actually smaller than I had imagined.
Engine $139.77, TS aluminum spinner $16.77, Prop nut $4.77, Freight $12.95 Total $174.26
I will weigh motor, muffler when I get a chance. By the way the Dubro and Great Planes control horns from Tower Hobbies put the clevis pin right on the hinge lines on the rudder, elevator, and ailerons I'm glad I spent the few extra $s.
Greg
Have not weighed it yet. Specs say 33.09oz. I am quite impressed with the looks of it and the stock muffler is actually smaller than I had imagined.
Engine $139.77, TS aluminum spinner $16.77, Prop nut $4.77, Freight $12.95 Total $174.26
I will weigh motor, muffler when I get a chance. By the way the Dubro and Great Planes control horns from Tower Hobbies put the clevis pin right on the hinge lines on the rudder, elevator, and ailerons I'm glad I spent the few extra $s.
Greg
#273
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From: El Reno, OK
The TS 91 I had originally installed in mine had a very small muffler for the size. In fact, I learned that it is the same size as the 61. Of course, the guy that is buying that setup is using a tuned pipe, and that's the right way to make it talk!
The 1.20 should be awesome!
Glad to hear about the control arms...Can you do a pic of the elevator/rudder setup?
The 1.20 should be awesome!
Glad to hear about the control arms...Can you do a pic of the elevator/rudder setup?
#274
Got a start on the pipe tunnel for the TT 120RP. I had to do a little header warping to align back to center because of the built in right thrust.
[img][/img][img][/img]
[img][/img][img][/img]
#275
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From: El Reno, OK
Looking good! You may want to widen the clearance on the sides of the header where it goes over the firewall. My ST thumps pretty hard at low idle, and there's a considerable amount of sideward movement.
Have you started on the wing bottom tunnel?
Have you started on the wing bottom tunnel?


