that would be sweet with a gasser, lots of cheap flying! GW do you think an rcs 180 or 140 would work in a typhoon? I guess it might not have the power to weight ratio.

I do not know much about the RCS engines. I did run across a web-page awhile back where a modeler had modified a Typhoon 2+2 for the RCS.
I would think you would have to keep the weight and size down to about 9lb and 950" to make the RCS work for AMA pattern.


What we need is a ZDZ 35 at 2.5 lbs complete component weight.

Then you would have a power to weight ratio that would be suitable for pattern. Tie a quiet exhaust to it, and fly all day for $2.
That would be nice.

hey i just had a thought, do you know anyone with a moki 1.35 in a 2 meter pattern ship? You can run straight methanol in those moki's which you can come out to about 5 or 6 bucks with oil. That would certainly be better than 20. I really like my moki 1.80.

That would be neat with a moki 1.35. I have owned several 1.8s and run them with a pitts muffler in 1/4 scale caps. TONS of power and 10.75 lb. with a sig cap. I wonder how a 1.8 would work with a pipe :>)!!!! I have no doubts you could get the weight right but still using glow fuel.

I used the cline system on my engines and the tank on the CG. Flawless Performance!! No blubbering and instant throttle response. Wish I hadn't sold them.......

Regards
Bill

Another positive to the moki line was they were built proof and didn't vibrate too bad. I hard mounted mine and didn't have any problems. Nice and smooth. plenty of room in the widebodys and a 2.10 would probably be enough power....:>)

I know I sound like Tim on TV ..MORE POWER!!

Regards
Bill

GW i got my T2K formers today, they look great, thanks. I like the changes you made from the plans.

Thats great, Glad you like them.
I was happy with those changes as well. It makes the bottom half of the fuse prettier, and much easier to build in my opinion.

When you start framing up, and notice any problem areas with the cuts, let me know, so I can make a change to the CAD file.
The last sets I sent out were the modified sets that had more lightening holes, and some formers cut for a better fit.

I think I have the CAD drawing down to a point where the plane is almost like a good puzzle, just find where the part goes and stick it in. No guesswork.

I also put the former identifiers on the last sets. The M formers are not on the former plan sheet, but they are needed none the less. They are the middle box formers.

I think the orientation of the identifiers are correct for the formers, but compare them to the plan sets. There is a top and bottom to the middle formers.

Enjoy and keep us posted on your progress.

I have been meaning to call Ms. Lakin at Gator RC and see if she knew anything about this sudden surge of interest in the T2K. She probably has not sold 10 plan sets in 3 years, and all the sudden she has probably sold 10 in 2 months. Plus canopies,cowls,cores,etc. Dang , she should cut me in on some commissions here.

Patternjukie
I am considering building the T2000 and I wondered if it would be possible to get a printout of your CAD modifications so that I can make the components myself .
You will remember that I offered to buy a set of your CNC cut formers but as I live in the UK it was not a goer but this would at least let me make the bird with your improvements.
I am willing to cover the postage and any costs encured.

Mike

GW,

The curve on the bottom formers does look a lot more gradual which has to be easer to sheet. F7,8 and 9 middle formers are full height, whereas the plans show a slight taper but i cant see why. I'd imagine you made that choice, it seems to me like having that slight taper vertically in the center section in the tail would only complicate things. The identifiers all look correct to me, and the balsa is great quality. I need to make an order from Gator RC soon and i will put in a good word for ya.

I'm committing myself here, but I'm hoping this will keep me motivated to complete this project for spring. I've been in r/c for 30+ years and have built many planes from kits and plans. This is my first attempt at an all out 2 meter pattern plane. I plan to post progress reports and comments as I build this plane. I'm hoping my comments will help other newbie pattern builders.

I'm building an all wood T2K. I obtained the fuse formers through Gerald (patternjunkie) Williams. They are of great quality. I found that former F-2 was missing, but it is also missing on the shop drawings that come with the plans. I'm sure whoever scanned the plans to do the laser cutting missed it. It's no big deal; it's a very easy part to make. I made the ribs and all other parts from the plans.

I'm using the book "Building a Pattern Airplane" by Bruce Thompson and Don Atwood as a guide. The Typhoon 2+2 is used in the book as an example of an all-wood plane. There are some differences from the T2K, but the overall sequence and some of the tips are helpful. I'm also using tips/photo's from Gerald's website, NSRCA web site and others as guides.

I'm going to use Troy Newman's elevator set-up which is on Gerald's website. I think it will lend itself well to a built-up fuse with the bulkheads to support it.

One part that I would change in the construction sequence (from the book) is to add the top formers later in construction. At least until after the bottom formers are attached. The top formers are tall and rather fragile and are susceptible to damage while working on the bottom of the fuse.

Attached is a photo of my progress so far. Not shown is the verical stab and rudder which are framed up and sheeted. The horizontal stab is partially framed up, as far as I can go before the fuse is further along. I'll post a photo of them next time.

I have about 4-5 evenings and one full day of time invested so far. So far no big problems.

Dave

Dave,
Nice to see some progress on the T2K.
Framing looks great. I think the idea of posting pics of your progress is a great idea. Might motivate a few newcomers.

Glad you like the former sets.
You are right about F2
The first few sets we had cut were missing this former. Later sets do include this former. For those that have the former set, F2 is just a rectangle piece easily made from1/8" balsa. I think there are only 3 sets without this former in the cuts.

Keep us posted on your progress.

Today I got one wing panel nearly ready to sheet. I just have to complete the shear webs around the wing tube and build the servo box.

I started on the wings because I ran into a problem with the fuse. I was trying to use the home-brew Piedmont mount for the Webra 1.45 I'm going to install.

http://piedmontmodels.com/dave_brown..._made_soft.htm

I found that the overall length of the set-up is 1/2" shorter than the plans show. I'm reluctant to shorten the cowl and moment that much. So I need to decide what to do; either build an engine mount box or use standoffs of some type. Or spring for a Hyde mount. I've asked for help with this on NSRCA mail list and have several suggestions. Among them is advice not to use the Piedmont homemade mount. Some people have said it works fine, though.

No problems with framing the wing. It's a little tedious trying to get everything perfect, but it will pay off in the end. Especially time consuming was getting the wing tube holes just right so the tube would not bind when installed. Any binding meant the tube was distorted and would not accept the inner tube. It takes a little patience.

Attached is a photo taken just before starting the wing showing the jig set up. I'm building on a luan door in my living room! My workshop is in the cellar, but it's cold down there. Living alone has its advantages.

I'll also post a photo of the wing as I left it for today. If I can figure out how to post two photos I'll attach it here. If not I'll repost.

Dave

Also shown in the previous photo are the vertical stab and rudder which are sheeted and the basic frame of the horizontal stab.

Anyone know how to post more than one photo in one reply?

Anyway, here is the photo of the right wing frame I built today.

Dave

I see a carbon tube, and a carbon strip on the outer spar. Will the inner spar get a carbon strip too?

The plans do not call for the carbon fiber strip to run the full span. The wing joiner tube should be more than adequate to support inboard section. There are light ply doublers on the ribs through which it passes. I'm also using a carbon fiber wing joiner which is far stronger than the cf strip.

Actually, the strip I put on is longer that the plans call for. They show ten inches from where you see it start in the photo. It overlaps the joiner tube by about 3 inches. I just used the length of the strip I have which is 24." Practically no weight to this stuff anyway. There will be a strip on the bottom spar too.

These together with the shear webbing should make the wing plenty strong!

Dave

This is where I left off yesterday. I didn't get much done as I wasn't feeling well. Installed aileron extention tube and built the servo box. After reading my last post, I decided to extend the carbon fiber strip all the way inboard. Why not?! I'll start the bottom strip inboard.

At this point the panel is ready to be sheeted on the upper surface. I also prepared the sheeting for this step. Then went to bed!

This is all I got done today! Applied the upper sheeting. I used aliphatic resin applied with a syringe. It went on quickly. I ran out of pins and had to use that cheap paper weight over the outboard rib. This will sit overnight before I remove it from the table.

I also build only when I feel like it !

Just finished re-build on my 'limbo dancer' after a mishap 6 months ago....

I'm sure the time investment will give you a real gem in the end!

Have fun....

Friday I spent the day at the WRAM's show. Saturday was mostly recovery from the trip. But between yesterday and today, I got the left wing mostly framed and the sheeting prepared for it.

Finally made a little more progress. It took a while to decide how to handle mounting the Webra. I considered many options suggested by several helpful people. As can be seen, I opted for the Dave Brown Vibradamp mount with hardwood stand-offs. The area between the stand-offs will be filled with light balsa.

Mounting the engine was the most difficult part so far. Getting it in the right position so that the drive shaft would center in the cowl was a little difficult to handle by myself, but I got it done.

With the engine mounted, I was able to mount the pipe and build the pipe tunnel. I also began sheeting the bottom of the fuse. Because of all the compound curves, I'm doing it in sections. What is done so far was done with one piece sheets. The rear will be done using strips.

This photo shows the engine mounted and the pipe in the process of being mounted. I'm using two Dave Brown pipe mounts to secure the pipe in the tunnel. I don't know if this is the proper way to do this or not, but it seems secure enough.

This photo shows the beginning of the pipe tunnel.

Pipe tunnel complete and sheeting begun.

Nice Work. You are gonna love that plane when you get it built.

I like the way you built the pipe tunnel around the pipe instead of just making the tunnel the same width from front to back. Very neat...

Thanks Gerald. And thanks again for all your help via email.

I completed planking and rough sanding the bottom tonight.

I've got to face aligning and installing joiner tubes in the fuse for the wings and stab next. The critical parts like these make me a little nervous!

It's still rough, but this is how I handled the rear end of the pipe tunnel. It just didn't seem right to end it with a 90 degree wall...

Is this what is usually done?