2 meter plans
#327
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From: Woodstock, GA
ORIGINAL: sigk
MHester, great pictures. Beautiful cockpit you have there. Four Typhoons ! you really must have liked them! I am very interested to see how your Tempest will turn out.
This is some searous engine you have there, great if you can come up with a new balsa competitive design out of the Typhoon.
MHester, great pictures. Beautiful cockpit you have there. Four Typhoons ! you really must have liked them! I am very interested to see how your Tempest will turn out.
This is some searous engine you have there, great if you can come up with a new balsa competitive design out of the Typhoon.
So if I can come up with a more current design along the same lines, that's all I need. Let the other guy spend a zillion dollars for a ZN kit (nice planes, but too pricey for me). I like my wood planes anyway, it's a lot easier to control the final product and they last longer (if properly taken care of).
Now I just gotta learn to make cowls and I'm all set.
-Mike
#328
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Very nice Mike!
I am anxious to see how this turns out as well. I'd like to build a new pattern plane this year, what would be the chances of you sharing these mods if they turn out good? Thanks!
I am anxious to see how this turns out as well. I'd like to build a new pattern plane this year, what would be the chances of you sharing these mods if they turn out good? Thanks!
#329
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From: Woodstock, GA
ORIGINAL: Acroman330
Very nice Mike!
I am anxious to see how this turns out as well. I'd like to build a new pattern plane this year, what would be the chances of you sharing these mods if they turn out good? Thanks!
Very nice Mike!
I am anxious to see how this turns out as well. I'd like to build a new pattern plane this year, what would be the chances of you sharing these mods if they turn out good? Thanks!
-Mike
#330
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From: Reykjavik, ICELAND
ORIGINAL: tph1
Some really nice work, hard to tell the differences from from the pics. But that is a "real" workshop, I can almost smell the balsa from here can't you Sigk?
Tom
Some really nice work, hard to tell the differences from from the pics. But that is a "real" workshop, I can almost smell the balsa from here can't you Sigk?
Tom
#331
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From: Reykjavik, ICELAND
The good thing about building from plans is always learning something new.
I almost got myself in trouble here when pressing the skin to the wing because of the huge difference between the root and the wingtip, the clamps really should be calibrated for best result.
This wing doesn't look like anything I have done before.
I have never before pressed a skin to a wing that tapers so much towards the wingtip. Also the ply rib for the tube really made things interesting, creating a hard spot in the foam. Using springs on the clamps should help even out the pressure.
I almost got myself in trouble here when pressing the skin to the wing because of the huge difference between the root and the wingtip, the clamps really should be calibrated for best result.
This wing doesn't look like anything I have done before.
I have never before pressed a skin to a wing that tapers so much towards the wingtip. Also the ply rib for the tube really made things interesting, creating a hard spot in the foam. Using springs on the clamps should help even out the pressure.
#332
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From: Reykjavik, ICELAND
ORIGINAL: MHester
Yes, I really liked them a lot....with certain modifications. How well did I like them? In 2002, I flew one and a friend flew my other one. Between us, they got 16 1st place and one close second (at the Nationals, just behind Michael Hill). That's not too shabby. In fact, they have only lost twice...the once at the Nats, and I got second place at my first pattern contest ever (when the plane was about a week old).
So if I can come up with a more current design along the same lines, that's all I need. Let the other guy spend a zillion dollars for a ZN kit (nice planes, but too pricey for me). I like my wood planes anyway, it's a lot easier to control the final product and they last longer (if properly taken care of).
Now I just gotta learn to make cowls and I'm all set.
-Mike
Yes, I really liked them a lot....with certain modifications. How well did I like them? In 2002, I flew one and a friend flew my other one. Between us, they got 16 1st place and one close second (at the Nationals, just behind Michael Hill). That's not too shabby. In fact, they have only lost twice...the once at the Nats, and I got second place at my first pattern contest ever (when the plane was about a week old).
So if I can come up with a more current design along the same lines, that's all I need. Let the other guy spend a zillion dollars for a ZN kit (nice planes, but too pricey for me). I like my wood planes anyway, it's a lot easier to control the final product and they last longer (if properly taken care of).
Now I just gotta learn to make cowls and I'm all set.
-Mike
It would be so nice if you can improve this design and still preserve it's character.
One of the reason I like this plane is because it really stands out from the rest. There are so many designs that just look almost identical.
I can understand the snap-spin problem. The wing is huge, so this plane must be stable. How much throw did you use on the elevator and did you enlarge the elevator in any of your modifications?
#334
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Well I didn't get 2nd at the nats, my friend did [8D] (I didn't go) But soon....
Yes I added about 1/2" to the elevator all the way across, and used about a 10 deg throw with 80% expo. That made for a SUPER stable plane.
The trouble is now it's TOO stable, it just won't handle the snaps and spins cleanly. Oh it'll do them, but exits are always a guessing game which way it'll be pointed. You really have to dig deep to get that thing to snap.
So with the new wings and tail, it should resolve that problem. I clipped 2" off the wings of my first 3, then the one that burned had an additional 1" clipped as well. It was getting there, but by then the stab was too big, and needed to be downsized. Which brings me to my current arrangement......
This isn't really a new thing, I've seen T2Ks with patriot wings, prophecy wings, all kinds of crazy stuff. Thing is that fuse and rudder are almost perfect. it also has the added benefit of stealthing the wings if they're off a little, allowing you to slip slightly in a crosswind without getting busted. I can't tell you how many rounds I took doing that
That plane just puts the judges to sleep.
Okie dokie, I'm off to build a chin cowl.....
-Mike
Yes I added about 1/2" to the elevator all the way across, and used about a 10 deg throw with 80% expo. That made for a SUPER stable plane.
The trouble is now it's TOO stable, it just won't handle the snaps and spins cleanly. Oh it'll do them, but exits are always a guessing game which way it'll be pointed. You really have to dig deep to get that thing to snap.
So with the new wings and tail, it should resolve that problem. I clipped 2" off the wings of my first 3, then the one that burned had an additional 1" clipped as well. It was getting there, but by then the stab was too big, and needed to be downsized. Which brings me to my current arrangement......
This isn't really a new thing, I've seen T2Ks with patriot wings, prophecy wings, all kinds of crazy stuff. Thing is that fuse and rudder are almost perfect. it also has the added benefit of stealthing the wings if they're off a little, allowing you to slip slightly in a crosswind without getting busted. I can't tell you how many rounds I took doing that
That plane just puts the judges to sleep. Okie dokie, I'm off to build a chin cowl.....
-Mike
#336

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WHAT A GREAT THREAD!
I am preparing to start a plan built 2m plane, and think I will jump in here. I have had the plans for a couple of years, but work pressure has kept me from flying, let alone building anything. Now I'm ready.
I ordered the plans for the Typhoon from Gator R/C. They arrived and I hung them from my shop wall to flatten out. It took me several minutes to realize that something was wrong. A couple more minutes to realize that I was looking at the plans for the Giles 202.[:-]. I guess the person that took the order, one of Chris Lakins teenage boys, mis-packed it, or maybe even I screwed up.
Well the thing started looking pretty good so I decided to keep it. Besides, I can't go off on a kid making some after school money.
About a month ago I started doing some R&D on the plans. (Rip off and develop as mentioned earlier in this thread)
I am drawing up a set of plans based on the basic plan form and moments of the Giles. It will have a double tapered foam wing, and I am reducing the root chord by 1 1/2 inches. The engine will be a Webra 1.45 and the radio will be my brand new 10x.
I am posting the plans (note, they are work in progress) and hope to be ordering the wood from Superior Balsa in a week or two.
I am preparing to start a plan built 2m plane, and think I will jump in here. I have had the plans for a couple of years, but work pressure has kept me from flying, let alone building anything. Now I'm ready.
I ordered the plans for the Typhoon from Gator R/C. They arrived and I hung them from my shop wall to flatten out. It took me several minutes to realize that something was wrong. A couple more minutes to realize that I was looking at the plans for the Giles 202.[:-]. I guess the person that took the order, one of Chris Lakins teenage boys, mis-packed it, or maybe even I screwed up.
Well the thing started looking pretty good so I decided to keep it. Besides, I can't go off on a kid making some after school money.
About a month ago I started doing some R&D on the plans. (Rip off and develop as mentioned earlier in this thread)
I am drawing up a set of plans based on the basic plan form and moments of the Giles. It will have a double tapered foam wing, and I am reducing the root chord by 1 1/2 inches. The engine will be a Webra 1.45 and the radio will be my brand new 10x.
I am posting the plans (note, they are work in progress) and hope to be ordering the wood from Superior Balsa in a week or two.
#338
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From: Woodstock, GA
ORIGINAL: tph1
Are you going for a regular T2K cowl or will you add cheeks or something? And what makes the fuse so good?
Are you going for a regular T2K cowl or will you add cheeks or something? And what makes the fuse so good?
The side area of this fuse is very sweet, and the rudder/fin are almost perfect. This is one of the best knife edge planes out there. NO mix, you can roll it into knife edge and fly the length of the box with your right hand down by your side. And that's without any mixing whastsoever.(at least all of mine were like that). I've flown prophecies, carreras, temptations, focus's, sillouhettes, Hydeouts, Hydeaways, an advantage, Patriot, Storm, and even other Typhoons...nothing came close to this one
It does become a handful in a heavy crosswind however. Power is your friend in that situation. Everything is a give and take. If you go too far down the stability path, your snap/spins suffer. If you make it snap and spin like a monster, the stability will suffer. If you build one sleek and like a rocket, it'll cut the wind and track but won't slow down well. If you build a draggy widebody, it'll fly constant speed but be a handful in high wind. So you have to find what suits you and then just burn fuel like crazy. This plane with those mods suited my flying style perfectly. But now I need something a little more aggressive.
Dreadnaught, be sure to post pics! You guys are firing me up over here.
-Mike
#339
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From: Rockledge,
FL
Well I guess I know what my project for this fall and winter will be. After the 120 Boxer, that I plan to fly this summer, it will be the T2K or Tempest. I just started rereading this thread and also looked at GW's site this looks like a very time consuming project but one that is well worth it.
Thanks for the concise answers.
Thanks for the concise answers.
#340
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Allright, quick update. It's all built now. Here's a pic of the finished cowl and the modified vertical/rudder (before a LOT of filling and sanding).
So all I have to do now is a couple weeks of sanding and filling. Yay me. I hate this part. But this is where you make or break the plane. And since I'm going to be waiting a minimum of 3 weeks for the paint and servos, it gives me NO excuse to cut any corners. I'm not really planning a complicated paint job, but colorful. Sort of like my old ones, but with some new twists.
So, this is the last update from me until I begin glassing, at which time I'll do a step-by-step through the painting for all you who want to try a painted wood fuse.
Make some dust fellas!
-Mike
So all I have to do now is a couple weeks of sanding and filling. Yay me. I hate this part. But this is where you make or break the plane. And since I'm going to be waiting a minimum of 3 weeks for the paint and servos, it gives me NO excuse to cut any corners. I'm not really planning a complicated paint job, but colorful. Sort of like my old ones, but with some new twists.
So, this is the last update from me until I begin glassing, at which time I'll do a step-by-step through the painting for all you who want to try a painted wood fuse.
Make some dust fellas!
-Mike
#341
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From: Reykjavik, ICELAND
ORIGINAL: MHester
Well I didn't get 2nd at the nats, my friend did [8D] (I didn't go) But soon....
Yes I added about 1/2" to the elevator all the way across, and used about a 10 deg throw with 80% expo. That made for a SUPER stable plane.
The trouble is now it's TOO stable, it just won't handle the snaps and spins cleanly. Oh it'll do them, but exits are always a guessing game which way it'll be pointed. You really have to dig deep to get that thing to snap.
So with the new wings and tail, it should resolve that problem. I clipped 2" off the wings of my first 3, then the one that burned had an additional 1" clipped as well. It was getting there, but by then the stab was too big, and needed to be downsized. Which brings me to my current arrangement......
This isn't really a new thing, I've seen T2Ks with patriot wings, prophecy wings, all kinds of crazy stuff. Thing is that fuse and rudder are almost perfect. it also has the added benefit of stealthing the wings if they're off a little, allowing you to slip slightly in a crosswind without getting busted. I can't tell you how many rounds I took doing that
That plane just puts the judges to sleep.
Okie dokie, I'm off to build a chin cowl.....
-Mike
Well I didn't get 2nd at the nats, my friend did [8D] (I didn't go) But soon....
Yes I added about 1/2" to the elevator all the way across, and used about a 10 deg throw with 80% expo. That made for a SUPER stable plane.
The trouble is now it's TOO stable, it just won't handle the snaps and spins cleanly. Oh it'll do them, but exits are always a guessing game which way it'll be pointed. You really have to dig deep to get that thing to snap.
So with the new wings and tail, it should resolve that problem. I clipped 2" off the wings of my first 3, then the one that burned had an additional 1" clipped as well. It was getting there, but by then the stab was too big, and needed to be downsized. Which brings me to my current arrangement......
This isn't really a new thing, I've seen T2Ks with patriot wings, prophecy wings, all kinds of crazy stuff. Thing is that fuse and rudder are almost perfect. it also has the added benefit of stealthing the wings if they're off a little, allowing you to slip slightly in a crosswind without getting busted. I can't tell you how many rounds I took doing that
That plane just puts the judges to sleep. Okie dokie, I'm off to build a chin cowl.....
-Mike
I enjoy building, so I don't mind testing a few different wings on it (also it can be a lot of fun), so I will stick with this plane.
The last time I assembled a fiber glass kit I got so bored with it that it took me a year to complete what shouldn't have taken more than two months.
The best snap-spin plane I have tried is the Kyosho Majestic. Just a tiny little plane, but so capable. No matter how bad the spin entry was, this plane would fall in and out of spin without any effort. So I scaled up the Majestic wing and my original plan was to have two sets of wings for the Typhoon, but it just didn't look right. So I would rather like to stay with the straight trailing edge and reduce the wing area. Maybe take off an inch all around.
Another idea is to take two inches off the root.
The funny thing was, when scaling up the Majestic wing, it just started to look like the Magic wing. The double taper was similar. Hmmm maybe Hanno got it right all those years ago.
The Magic is a plane I know well and it would snap and spin very well, but not as easily as the Majestic. Also the Magic would glide forever compared to the Majestic so it must be the wing loading what is making all the difference.
But of course I can only compare planes I know.
Also, aren't the scale guys snapping their heavy planes everywhere, because of the high wingload.
Thank you for your information about improving the Typhoon, it is well appreciated.
#343
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From: Reykjavik, ICELAND
The leading and trailing edge have been glued on to the wing and the wing is being aligned to the fuselage. After the bottom was glued on to the fuselage it is stiff enough to be handled.
#346
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From: Reykjavik, ICELAND
Thanks tph1 but it still needs improvement. It would really help using some springs on the clamps like used on inlet and exhaust valves on car engines or something similar. That should really help even out the pressure. I had some problems there because of the ply rib in the foam and had to reduce the pressure from what I'm used to, not really what I wanted when I'm using polyurethan glue. But it turned out just fine.
If you are still looking for a cowl for the Typhoon 2000 it shouldn't hurt trying Radio South http://www.radiosouthrc.com/
If you are still looking for a cowl for the Typhoon 2000 it shouldn't hurt trying Radio South http://www.radiosouthrc.com/
#347
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From: Reykjavik, ICELAND
MHester,
Loved your rudder, very classy, definitely a new style. Can't wait to see a picture where I can see the new wing.
About the clutter, I told you it was all under the table
Loved your rudder, very classy, definitely a new style. Can't wait to see a picture where I can see the new wing.
About the clutter, I told you it was all under the table
#349
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From: Woodstock, GA
Ok, as hard as I tried, I couldn't get ALL of the wings in one shot. So I took a couple, you can sort of get the idea. Take special notice of the counterbalances on the controls. And the size
Yes, it should 3D too. It will be equipped with all JR digitals and MK ball bearing hardware, so....
They look like they belong more on a jet than on a pattern plane.
-Mike
Yes, it should 3D too. It will be equipped with all JR digitals and MK ball bearing hardware, so....They look like they belong more on a jet than on a pattern plane.
-Mike
#350
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From: Reykjavik, ICELAND
Hi tph1
No there is really no need for such a fancy tool. A simple bathroom scale is quite adequate if you want to calibrate the press, it isn't that critical, then you just have to remember how many turns you did.
You can also, before gluing put the cores in the press and start pressing down on it at the root and count the turns, notice when it starts to crush, then go no further. Do the same with the wingtip. Then you will notice you can probable only do half as many turns before crushing the tip. Then you will have to even out the pressure on the other clamps.
The trick is to gradually and evenly reduce the pressure to the wingtip. It will also help using a straight edge to see if the clamps are all in line.
The Typhoon wing is the only wing that was a little bit tricky because how much the wing tapers towards the tip. All other wings I have done, I have just calibrated the press for even pressure and that has worked just fine.
I use this press because I got so bored stacking weight on the cores, besides, when the press is taken apart it doesn't take up much space.
But the best idea for a wing press I have heard came from a friend from my club, who owns a huge air compressor. His idea was to use air jacks to press on the cores. Then you would not need to be stacking weight or tightening clamps, just push a button. How expensive the jacks would have been, well that's another story
But it sure sounded good.
No there is really no need for such a fancy tool. A simple bathroom scale is quite adequate if you want to calibrate the press, it isn't that critical, then you just have to remember how many turns you did.
You can also, before gluing put the cores in the press and start pressing down on it at the root and count the turns, notice when it starts to crush, then go no further. Do the same with the wingtip. Then you will notice you can probable only do half as many turns before crushing the tip. Then you will have to even out the pressure on the other clamps.
The trick is to gradually and evenly reduce the pressure to the wingtip. It will also help using a straight edge to see if the clamps are all in line.
The Typhoon wing is the only wing that was a little bit tricky because how much the wing tapers towards the tip. All other wings I have done, I have just calibrated the press for even pressure and that has worked just fine.
I use this press because I got so bored stacking weight on the cores, besides, when the press is taken apart it doesn't take up much space.
But the best idea for a wing press I have heard came from a friend from my club, who owns a huge air compressor. His idea was to use air jacks to press on the cores. Then you would not need to be stacking weight or tightening clamps, just push a button. How expensive the jacks would have been, well that's another story

But it sure sounded good.


