Shinden Build
#151

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From: Basingstoke, UNITED KINGDOM
Hi Kevin,
Thank you, I will take a look on Bolly's site.
I'm still waiting for the plane to be delivered, but at least I can do some research in the meantime.
Thanks again,
Mark.
Thank you, I will take a look on Bolly's site.
I'm still waiting for the plane to be delivered, but at least I can do some research in the meantime.
Thanks again,
Mark.
#152

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Hi Mark
The regular 30-10 is marginal on a plane of that size. I flew it on my Twister which is pretty much at 5kg, and more close in size to the Shinden. You can do it but again, its not the best. If you were flying Intermediate or Advanced I think you would be satisfied, if you are flying Masters or FAI I think you will want the Evo.
Either motor, a 21x14 is a good starting point. The Evo is a little hotter motor, so it also likes props like the 20x15, 20.5x14.
If you go with the regular 30-10 you can save some weight with controller, it needs only a 60A esc, with the Evo you need to bump up to an 80A.
The regular 30-10 is marginal on a plane of that size. I flew it on my Twister which is pretty much at 5kg, and more close in size to the Shinden. You can do it but again, its not the best. If you were flying Intermediate or Advanced I think you would be satisfied, if you are flying Masters or FAI I think you will want the Evo.
Either motor, a 21x14 is a good starting point. The Evo is a little hotter motor, so it also likes props like the 20x15, 20.5x14.
If you go with the regular 30-10 you can save some weight with controller, it needs only a 60A esc, with the Evo you need to bump up to an 80A.
#153

Hi Mola
those weight are weights from around the second batch
my last kit 06 -07 was 6 onces lighter total
however you should have no problem building it for 10.75 pounds
let us know how it flys
Bryan
those weight are weights from around the second batch
my last kit 06 -07 was 6 onces lighter total
however you should have no problem building it for 10.75 pounds
let us know how it flys
Bryan
#154

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From: Basingstoke, UNITED KINGDOM
Hi Chad,
Thanks for the information - very helpful.
Well it looks like is going to have to be the Plettenberg Xtra 30-10 EVO! from the couple of replies I have already received, it seems to be the best option for 'fit & forget'. I might look at ordering the EVO from abroad, because they are very expensive to buy in the UK. If any of you Guy's can suggest a a company that will ship to the UK, please let me know.
I have 90amp ESC's so at least I do not have to go buying one of them
Thanks to all for your input so far.
Regards,
Mark.
Thanks for the information - very helpful.
Well it looks like is going to have to be the Plettenberg Xtra 30-10 EVO! from the couple of replies I have already received, it seems to be the best option for 'fit & forget'. I might look at ordering the EVO from abroad, because they are very expensive to buy in the UK. If any of you Guy's can suggest a a company that will ship to the UK, please let me know.
I have 90amp ESC's so at least I do not have to go buying one of them
Thanks to all for your input so far.
Regards,
Mark.
#155

My Feedback: (1)
Hi Mark
You can try Etienne at www.icare-rc.com
He is the distributor over here for Plettenberg, I think he has sold to overseas customers previously.
[email protected]
You can try Etienne at www.icare-rc.com
He is the distributor over here for Plettenberg, I think he has sold to overseas customers previously.
[email protected]
#156

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From: Basingstoke, UNITED KINGDOM
Hi Chad,
I have tried 'icare' and they are out of stock.
I gave my local model shop a call earlier today and he reckons that he can get me a good deal on one! if that is the case I will go through him as it makes sense to buy local just incase there is a problem - easier to return etc.
Regards,
Mark.
I have tried 'icare' and they are out of stock.
I gave my local model shop a call earlier today and he reckons that he can get me a good deal on one! if that is the case I will go through him as it makes sense to buy local just incase there is a problem - easier to return etc.
Regards,
Mark.
#157

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From: Bolivia, NC
Question for those who have built a Shinden. Should the canopy be glued inside the canopy hatch or outside? Looking at mine, it seems like it would be easier, more secure, and nicer looking to glue to the inside of the hatch. What glue did you use for this? I'm thinking of using a white marine silicone caulking to glue on the inside of the hatch.
Thanks,
Dave Burton
Thanks,
Dave Burton
#158

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From: Basingstoke, UNITED KINGDOM
Hi Dave,
I'm still waiting for my Shinden kit to arrive but, if you take a look at post #5 of this thread it may help. Looks like it goes on the outside of the canopy frame.
Regards,
Mark.
I'm still waiting for my Shinden kit to arrive but, if you take a look at post #5 of this thread it may help. Looks like it goes on the outside of the canopy frame.
Regards,
Mark.
#159

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From: Bolivia, NC
Yeah, I saw that too. But when I fit the hatch frame over the canopy (before cutting) it fits almost perfectly inside and could easily be trimmed to fit and glue. Maybe Bryan will chime in with an idea too.
#161
Senior Member
The clear canopy should be glued inside. The only reason he showed it on top in post #5 was to show how he determined how much he was going to cut off. I believe Bryan used RC56 for his, but I can't say for sure. If he hasn't chimed in by the time I talk to him next, I'll get back and let you know.
#162
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From: Rayne,
LA
Yes Matthew, I was just trying show how I decided how much to cut off of the canopy.
I glued my canopy on the inside. I also used RC56, but any canopy glue will work.
Jon
I glued my canopy on the inside. I also used RC56, but any canopy glue will work.
Jon
#163

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From: Basingstoke, UNITED KINGDOM
Shinden update,
Well the kit finally arrived on Thursday, well packed and all intact with no damage. I have to say I thought the quality was going to be a tad better than it is - but for the money I suppose I should not grumble. There are two areas I'm not that happy with: 1, the fuselage sides where they join at the front ( just behind spinner ) have not been aligned that well and there is a step between the two halves and the wings do not lign up with the fairings on the fuselage! if you do lign them up with the fairings then they are out when checked with a meter. Also the airelons are very very stiff to move by hand is this normal? I'm worried that they will put a fair bit of load on the servo's / RX battery.
So, they are the couple of areas I have found a bit disapointing so far - otherwise it all looks good.
Component weights are as follows:
Fuselage with canopy frame - chin cowl & rudder 1162gs
Canopy ( un cut ) 163gs
Left & Right wing halves 402gs each
Wing tube 94gs
Left stab 127gs
Right stab with carbon joiners 165gs
Fixed gear ( pair ) 157gs - will be replaced with a Bolly item
Wheel pants ( pair ) 30gs - may have to replace to take bigger wheels - Grass strip!
Grand total 2705 grams
I have ordered the Plettenberg 30-10 EVO as this seems to be the motor to go for, which will be coupled to a Jeti 90amp esc and I will first try a 21 x 14 to get me going.
My real concern is making weight! I put some rough weights together and I came up with approx 4600gs which is for airframe weight - motor - lipos - servos - esc, but does not include: RX + RX battery etc - wheels - tail wheel unit ( MK ) - push rods - closed loop - bulkhead - control horns and the other final bits n bobs that will be required to finish her.
I still have not made up my mind on servo selection yet, I'm tempted to use JR 8411's all round, using one for the elevator coupled to a MK dual elevator coupler and carbon push rod.
What I would like to know is........ the 5000kgs or 11lbs is that a dry weight? i.e Glow with no fuel and Electric with no Lipo's on board, as I really do believe that it will be over the 11lbs in a ready to fly state.
Also, some input of Lipo selection would be much appreciated - I can easily get Flightpower or Thunder Power cells. I already have a few packs of TP 3850 5S and FP 3700 5S which I will use for practise, what should I use capacity wise for longer flight times and for competion use bearing in mind weight is an issue.
Sorry to be asking more questions, but I would like to get this as right as possible first time as budget will not allow to many errors.
I look forward to some feedback.
Regards,
Mark.
Well the kit finally arrived on Thursday, well packed and all intact with no damage. I have to say I thought the quality was going to be a tad better than it is - but for the money I suppose I should not grumble. There are two areas I'm not that happy with: 1, the fuselage sides where they join at the front ( just behind spinner ) have not been aligned that well and there is a step between the two halves and the wings do not lign up with the fairings on the fuselage! if you do lign them up with the fairings then they are out when checked with a meter. Also the airelons are very very stiff to move by hand is this normal? I'm worried that they will put a fair bit of load on the servo's / RX battery.
So, they are the couple of areas I have found a bit disapointing so far - otherwise it all looks good.
Component weights are as follows:
Fuselage with canopy frame - chin cowl & rudder 1162gs
Canopy ( un cut ) 163gs
Left & Right wing halves 402gs each
Wing tube 94gs
Left stab 127gs
Right stab with carbon joiners 165gs
Fixed gear ( pair ) 157gs - will be replaced with a Bolly item
Wheel pants ( pair ) 30gs - may have to replace to take bigger wheels - Grass strip!
Grand total 2705 grams
I have ordered the Plettenberg 30-10 EVO as this seems to be the motor to go for, which will be coupled to a Jeti 90amp esc and I will first try a 21 x 14 to get me going.
My real concern is making weight! I put some rough weights together and I came up with approx 4600gs which is for airframe weight - motor - lipos - servos - esc, but does not include: RX + RX battery etc - wheels - tail wheel unit ( MK ) - push rods - closed loop - bulkhead - control horns and the other final bits n bobs that will be required to finish her.
I still have not made up my mind on servo selection yet, I'm tempted to use JR 8411's all round, using one for the elevator coupled to a MK dual elevator coupler and carbon push rod.
What I would like to know is........ the 5000kgs or 11lbs is that a dry weight? i.e Glow with no fuel and Electric with no Lipo's on board, as I really do believe that it will be over the 11lbs in a ready to fly state.
Also, some input of Lipo selection would be much appreciated - I can easily get Flightpower or Thunder Power cells. I already have a few packs of TP 3850 5S and FP 3700 5S which I will use for practise, what should I use capacity wise for longer flight times and for competion use bearing in mind weight is an issue.
Sorry to be asking more questions, but I would like to get this as right as possible first time as budget will not allow to many errors.
I look forward to some feedback.
Regards,
Mark.
#164

Also, some input of Lipo selection would be much appreciated - I can easily get Flightpower or Thunder Power cells. I already have a few packs of TP 3850 5S and FP 3700 5S which I will use for practise, what should I use capacity wise for longer flight times and for competion use bearing in mind weight is an issue.
Both will cope easily with a typical PO9 or F09 schedule, staying well within the 80% capacity suggested for long battery life.
And, whether or not you think it's the right way to go on, the fact remains that here in the UK nobody's going to object if you're a bit over 5Kg at a comp., unless you're trying for a team place.
#165

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From: Basingstoke, UNITED KINGDOM
Hi,
Thanks for your post.
I have been looking at the FP 4350 10s brick - it weighs in at 1055gs. The problem is I have no idea on what is likely to be drawn from the packs.
Do you think that the 4350 packs is cutting it a bit too fine for the 80% margin?
Thanks,
MArk.
Thanks for your post.
I have been looking at the FP 4350 10s brick - it weighs in at 1055gs. The problem is I have no idea on what is likely to be drawn from the packs.
Do you think that the 4350 packs is cutting it a bit too fine for the 80% margin?
Thanks,
MArk.
#166

Well,I've just checked, and my FP 5350 F3A packs weigh 1154 grams+/- a few grams, including the leads and 6mm plugsand I have my timer set at 8' 30"-and have never got to 4000maH on a flight(except the once by mistake on forgetting the timer of course)-so presuming that that's what you mean(not 4350).
8 1/2 mins is enough for one P09/F09, plus a few extra manouevres, so enough-but still less convenient for practice than most ic setups.
8 1/2 mins is enough for one P09/F09, plus a few extra manouevres, so enough-but still less convenient for practice than most ic setups.
#167

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From: Basingstoke, UNITED KINGDOM
Thanks again for the info.
What motor / set up are you running, what model do you fly and it's weight? I completely forgot that FP do the F3A series, I had a look on their web site and they do say that those packs are ideally suited to the Hacker C50 XL geared motor, but if your're putting less than 4000mah back into your packs after 8 1/2 mins there should be no problem anyway. The FP packs may well be the answer.
Thanks,
Mark.
What motor / set up are you running, what model do you fly and it's weight? I completely forgot that FP do the F3A series, I had a look on their web site and they do say that those packs are ideally suited to the Hacker C50 XL geared motor, but if your're putting less than 4000mah back into your packs after 8 1/2 mins there should be no problem anyway. The FP packs may well be the answer.
Thanks,
Mark.
#168

What motor / set up are you running, what model do you fly and it's weight?
Had an Abbra,converted from I.C. so untypically slightly over 5Kg.,
About to begin flying an Integral with same setupnot weighed it,but likely close to 5Kg.
#169

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From: Basingstoke, UNITED KINGDOM
Is your first name David?
I sort of recognise the area you live and I know a F3A flyer up that way, who also owns a Integral.
I have the Dualsky 6360 12T, but I wanted to go for something that was a tad lighter. I was also thing of about getting an Integral, but went for the Shinden instead.
R's,
Mark.
I sort of recognise the area you live and I know a F3A flyer up that way, who also owns a Integral.
I have the Dualsky 6360 12T, but I wanted to go for something that was a tad lighter. I was also thing of about getting an Integral, but went for the Shinden instead.
R's,
Mark.
#170

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From: Basingstoke, UNITED KINGDOM
Does anyone else have a view on using the Flightpower F3A packs along with the Plettenberg EVO 30-10?
This is the FP specs on the F3A packs:
LIGHT WEIGHT ( 1150gs approx ) 10S F3A COMPETITION SETUP CONSISTING OF TWO CELL-MATCHED 5S 5350MAH BLOCKS. 17C CONSTANT 28C BURST IDEALLY MATCHED TO HACKER C50 14X XL WITH 22X12 PROP.
My Shinden is going to be tipping the scales at around 11lbs ish! so will they be man enough to cope? but I would save a couple of hundred grams by using them........... It all helps.
Mark.
This is the FP specs on the F3A packs:
LIGHT WEIGHT ( 1150gs approx ) 10S F3A COMPETITION SETUP CONSISTING OF TWO CELL-MATCHED 5S 5350MAH BLOCKS. 17C CONSTANT 28C BURST IDEALLY MATCHED TO HACKER C50 14X XL WITH 22X12 PROP.
My Shinden is going to be tipping the scales at around 11lbs ish! so will they be man enough to cope? but I would save a couple of hundred grams by using them........... It all helps.
Mark.
#171

My Feedback: (1)
Mark
That is what a couple of the UK team members are using, as well as one of the Canadian team members for motor/packs. They seem to work very well and have plenty of power, I think you would be happy with that setup. I know the Canadian plane is right at 5kg with that, and I think the UK guys were up there as well, you will have no issues with performance.
That is what a couple of the UK team members are using, as well as one of the Canadian team members for motor/packs. They seem to work very well and have plenty of power, I think you would be happy with that setup. I know the Canadian plane is right at 5kg with that, and I think the UK guys were up there as well, you will have no issues with performance.
#172

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From: Basingstoke, UNITED KINGDOM
Hi Chad,
Many thanks for your post.
Decision made! Thanks to 'F3A05' for reminding me that Flightpower do the F3A packs and also to yourself. I was just looking for that extra bit of assurance from someone that the FP packs were the way to go.
I will get a set on order tomorrow - motor is on order and so is the longer gear to get the prop clearance.
Just the servo's now! I think I will go for JR8411's all round. As mentioned in one of my previous posts, I am a little concerned on just how tight the Airelons are to move.
Thanks again guy's,
Mark.
Many thanks for your post.
Decision made! Thanks to 'F3A05' for reminding me that Flightpower do the F3A packs and also to yourself. I was just looking for that extra bit of assurance from someone that the FP packs were the way to go.
I will get a set on order tomorrow - motor is on order and so is the longer gear to get the prop clearance.
Just the servo's now! I think I will go for JR8411's all round. As mentioned in one of my previous posts, I am a little concerned on just how tight the Airelons are to move.
Thanks again guy's,
Mark.
#173
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From: Leicester, , UNITED KINGDOM
Mark,
local help and info for things F3A related can be found here: www.gbrcaa.org we're on your doorstep and the GBR guy's are more than happy to help!
Your also more than welcome to attend any of our events through the season, chance is there should be a comp near you so why not come along.
Not sure anyone is flying a Shinden over here though so tech info on this model may be thin on the ground but model setups are universal so don't be shy to ask.
Welcome to the wonderful world of F3A.
Kind regards,
Andy.
local help and info for things F3A related can be found here: www.gbrcaa.org we're on your doorstep and the GBR guy's are more than happy to help!
Your also more than welcome to attend any of our events through the season, chance is there should be a comp near you so why not come along.
Not sure anyone is flying a Shinden over here though so tech info on this model may be thin on the ground but model setups are universal so don't be shy to ask.
Welcome to the wonderful world of F3A.
Kind regards,
Andy.
#174

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From: Basingstoke, UNITED KINGDOM
Hi Andy,
Thanks for your post.
I'm in Basingstoke, Hampshire and yes I would be interested in taking a look at some local events etc.
I need to get up and running with this plane and get some practise / learn sequences, as I'm well out of touch!
Thanks again,
Mark.
Thanks for your post.
I'm in Basingstoke, Hampshire and yes I would be interested in taking a look at some local events etc.
I need to get up and running with this plane and get some practise / learn sequences, as I'm well out of touch!
Thanks again,
Mark.
#175
Senior Member
Bryan maidened Brian Clemmons' Shinden on Saturday. The plane flew great right out the gate with the exception of a little misunderstanding of programming expos. Knife-edges had a slight pull to canopy on right rudder and a push to the belly on left, a problem easily fixed by shifting the weight forward a little. That didn't stop Bryan from doing a near picture-perfect knife-edge loop on the maiden flight and some beautiful snaps that stopped on a dime. Second flight was even better with the expo fixed. The only plane I've ever seen do a comparable avalanche was another Shinden... it comes out of the snap in the perfect position to continue the loop.


