Hi mjfrederick,

Great to hear another successful Shinden build / test flight. Does the indication of the weight needing to be moved forward due to the knife edge yawing apply to most set ups? I do find trimming can sometimes be a bit of a challenge as to what to look for and then to know what to do for the cure / fix.

Is there an easy explanation on how moving the CofG forward a bit can cure this.

Thanks,

Mark.

The solution comes directly from the designer, Bryan Hebert. He posted a trimming guide to the NSRCA list, with his permission I edited it for publication in the K-Factor and on his website. Any trim problems with his airplanes (and almost all others provided it is a sound design) can be corrected following the steps taken in this article. The only stipulation is that you have to be flying with positive incidence on the wings (the Shinden is not built with 0-0 anyway). A lot of the recommendations he makes are not valid for 0-0 setups. You can find the article here: [link=http://www.hebertcompetitiondesigns.com/interest.htm]Triangulation Trimming[/link].

Excellent......... Thank you.

Hello,

I am about to purchase a shinden having never seen one.

Can you explain this nose ring set up in greater detail. I have been out of the hobby for several years and was figuring to use a Hyde mount

thanks

Jon

Not sure what you're really asking for as far as details. I've seen as many different nose ring installations as I've seen Shindens (that's about 5 or 6). It's just a matter of preference. The most important thing is that the ring will hold the front of the engine on line, and the soft mount will only allow rotation of the engine. Perhaps Bryan can chime in with specific details about installing one in a Shinden, as I haven't built one yet.

On my Shinden I centered the nose ring first using a 2 step bushing I made of plastic in my lathe and marked the holes for the 4-40 screws to hold the nose ring. Then I drilled and countersunk the holes, put the nose ring on the engine, engine in the Hyde mount and screwed everything together locating the engine and mount with the nose ring, spinner back plate and a 1/8" spacer. Then I hung the fuselage nose up on the wall by the landing gear and installed the firewall through the canopy opening with 30 minute epoxy and cabasil thickener. I used a light film of glue on the back of the Hyde mount to keep it in place. When the epoxy cured I carefully removed the engine and nose ring and drilled holes to bolt the Hyde mount with blind nuts. Then I finished glueing the firewall on both sides with epoxy and fiberglass cloth.

A Cooling question for you guys using a YS 160-70 in a Shinden. I'm in the process of completing my Shinden with a YS 160DZ. What cooling holes need to be made in the Cowl to allow enough air out to keep things cool? I can install the cowl over the engine and everything clears but I'm concerned that I'll have enough exhaust air escaping from just the hole to access the glow plug. How big and how many holes need to be cut to get the air out? Any baffles needed?
Thanks,
Dave Burton

I ASKED THE SAME QUESTION AND THE ANSWER IS NO EXTRA HOLES NEEDED ,'CEPT FOR A SMALL HOLE FOR THE GLOW PLUG CONNECTION.1/2 CASE OF 30% THROUGH MY 1.60 YS ,AND NO FLAME OUTS FROM OVERHEATING ,OR ANYTHING ELSE.PERFECT DESIGN.

Thanks Dave. I'll try mine the same way. Here's a picture. It's ready except for checking the CG and installing the battery, switch, and receiver.

Hi Dave
plane looks good !
make sure for best flying results you have the c/g on the front side of the wing tube to 1/8 in front of the wing tube
mount your switch and battery all the way forward ,,,battery near the firewall.
Set the wing inc at 5/8 deg pos. it`s a little shy from the factory,
adjust the stab to match the elevators after the trim flight

On the air intake I opened mine a little in the front to help keep it cool !!!
down here in the dead of summer it does get a little warm in the cowling
for snaps it takes
13 deg up elevator 15 down
18-20 deg ail throw evenly adjusted up and down
low rate rudder ,,,for both snaps and spins.
If it wants to keep rotating on the snaps and spins your ,,,tail Heavy or,,, too much rudder input {it takes very little rudder for all snaps }
good luck let us know how it flies.
Now1,,,, back to Nat`s packing
Bryan

Is the plane really that pink, or is there something wrong with the picture? Or my eyes?

That is PAANK!
<G>
G

Nope, It's red, white, and blue. Sometimes my digital camera gets the exposure wrong due to my ignorance of them and I don't know how to correct. Pictures would have come out better if I had put the plane in the sunshine rather than the shade of the shop I think.

OK, I figured something like that had happened, now I can at least imagine... Nice looking job on that! To be honest, my first thought when I saw the picture was "That's beautiful, what is that, velvet?"

WHAT FONT IS THE SHINDEN ON THE SIDE? NICE PLANE.

I don't know. I asked the sign lady to use an oriental style and that's what she came up with.
Here's a better picture.

ON THE MOTOR MOUNT ISSUE,I USED A BUDD MOUNT,WITH A NOSE RING ,BUT HAD SOME ISSUES.NOW I AM SWITCHING TO A HYDE MOUNT WITH THE BUILT IN NOSE RING.FITS PERFECT .WILL TEST IT OUT THIS WEEKEND.DON'T GET ME WRONG THE BUDD MOUNT IS NICE AND VERY REASONABLY PRICED, BUT I LIKE THE INTEGRATED NOSE RING IDEA .

IF ANYONE HAS AN ALL WHITE SHIDEN THEY WISH TO SELL ,PLEASE CONTACT ME,I LOST A BATTLE WITH SAFETY BARRIER THIS WEEKEND.
DAVE KEPHART
1-541-788-1654
BEND,OR 97701

Nice plan.

I have had a number of Pattern plans over the years. the biggest issue I seem to be having over the years is the landing gear.

sometimes on landings even smooth ones the full landing gear plate gets pulled completing out, causing a nice belly landing.

is this model reinforce in the landing gear area.

would be very interresting in seeing some more detail in that area.

interresting in getting on of these planes being hearing very good things but concern again about the kanding gear mounting plate design.

thanks

before i hit a barrier ,hard core gusts,i found thet the shinden landing gear is as tough as you will find.If you break the gear out of a Shinden,you need to go back and learn to fly.This why i'm trying to replace mine,but they are alittle hard to come by right now

LOOKS LIKE I GOT ANOTHER ONE,YIPPEE,I'M COMIMG FOR YOU,CARDER AND STERLING...

Hi Dave- glad to hear you found another Shinden. You are joining my club, since in June I turned the Impact I had for 6 months into small little pieces of composite materials. It took a shovel to dig out the motor.

I feel you nipping at my heels. Look forward to next year!

i can't wait!!

I flew my Shinden for the first time today and one item I was worried about proved to be a problem. The gear is too short. I used a YS 140DZ for power with a 16.5 X 12 APC prop. Landing at idle was the issue. Even with a really easy touchdown the prop tips touched. Anyone else have this issue with the gear? What did you do to solve? Any one switched to a Bolly or similar gear?
Dave Burton

I know Bryan has used some small wedges (like the ones used to square up a door) to angle the gear down a little bit. Also, what size tires are you using? From what I understand they're running 2.75 or 3.00 inch tires. I know the clearance is pretty close with 18" props, but you shouldn't have had any trouble with a 16.5.