Chris,</p>

Goodluck with Richard at YS via email.  He doesn't check it often.  He usually comes in about noon eastern time as he is in Nevada.  Just give him a call, much easier.  </p>

I have the vacuum issue on my wings and have flown them for going on its 3rd season and never had a problem.  I just put one wing on first and attach it with the wing bolt, then slowly put the other wing on.  If you put it on slowly its not a big deal.  </p>

My canopy latches are at the base in the rear, right and left.  They were VERY tight at first, but have loosened up some as far as the tension making them easier to get off, but still a very tight fit on the fuse.  </p>

Arch</p>

Looks great so far!</p>

ok from the first pic it looks like you need to shave a little from the front of the stab roots. It's critical to triangulate it here to be sure they are straight with the fuse and not cocked as you are suspecting. if you end up taking a hair bit more off one side than the other, the "correct" answer is to match the other side as well. This is probably one of the more tedious parts of a VF3....and as you've probably seen by now, that's saying something...

Sacriledge alert:If one side of the stab is slightly larger than the other, or if it's SLIGHTLYcocked, you aren't going to notice. Although it's better and easier if everything is 100%within tolerance, the truth is the actual flight tolerance is pretty large and hard to believe. What is one of the most critical alignments is that the horizontal stab and the wing are horizontally equal...as in one tip is not lower with respect to the wing or whatever. This alignment is 100%critical so don't miss it.</p>

The other tricky part is the canopy. I included the fitting sealing instructions with the kits, but personally I don't do it that way. The way I do it is more by eye and guesstimation. Let me say clearly to TAKE YOUR TIME on the fitting of the canopy. Carbon canopies are expensive and quite a few before you have trashed it and had to get a replacement. With that being said, it's not TOO hard as long as you pay attention.</p>

The canopy latch pins are located in the canopy at the bottom rear corners with the pins entering the turtle deck face. Install them when you're building your frame, and before you glue on the carbon canopy. Doing it this way helps keep everything straight. When you glue down the carbon part, make SURE the frame stays straight.</p>

Answers:</p>

1. patience.....that's not a bad thing. If the ones on the prototype had been that tight, I'd still have a plane right now!</p>

2. see above</p>

3. see above</p>

4. 775-267-9252 Richard doesn't really do email.</p>

5. see above again.</p>

-Mike</p>

</p>

Okay, This definately wont be the last question. Any pictures of your guys fuel tank setups? Ihear some are running a header tank. Ihave a 16 oz, 20oz, and 24, oz tank in the shop and Ihave a 2oz tank too. Iwas thinking I'd use the 2oz and 20oz tank. Maybe 16oz plus the 2oz header would be enough? Anyways, lets see some pictures of those tank setups.

A few piccies for ya........

Go with the 20 or 24 oz tank....trust me.

-Mike

Dean,

You assumed too quick ole great and all knowing one. I didn't want to go in great detail on the "different way", but the "different way" was a Mike Hester idea and is lighter than your way. Or I should say the standard way and this is why I needed a longer pin. If would have been cut flush with the adjuster I would have needed a new pin. SO THERE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


Lawrence

LOL</p>

The "way" is just making the root ribs out of balsa instead of lite ply. Larry is looking to save every gram off the tail that he can. I did the same thing to the Evil Red ***** when I thought it had a balance issue. It didn't, but the balsa roots are an overkill solution. but you have to make small lite ply plates to mount the adjusters to, which adds to thier depth. hence the pin needs to be 1/4" longer overall if it's flush with the adjusters. I don't like to trim them flush. because if a screw comes out of the stab, I like the idea of a hair more security on the pin. A lot of people use the pin only to hold the stabs in place. I wouldn't do that on a glow plane....</p>

Now hurry up and get done Larry. You're late....</p>

-Mike</p>

</p>

I would recommend the 20oz with a header tank on a non CDI engine.  You can get away with a smaller tank with the CDI.</p>

</p>

Arch</p>

</p>

Regarding the vacuum seal issue with wing tubes: I drilled a very small hole in the center of the wing tube (1/16") and a 1/8" hole in the center of the wing socket. The holes are exactly on top when the wings are installed. Put your wing tube into the wing with the hole on top, slide into the fuse and mount your other wing. No trapped air and the holes don't seem to affect affect strength. If you'drathernot drill holes in the center then just put 2 small holes in the wings (on the bottom of the wings) through the tubes like you would do if you were using screws at the end of the wing tubes to hold the wings on.

John Pavlick
Team Black Magic, Tech-Aero Designs

I really dont like ANY holes in a carbon tube, no matter how small and no matter the location.  I don't even like the setup of drilling the tube near the tip and putting screws in to hold it in place.  Over time, I dont care how small the hole, a crack can migrate and one can form small enough you dont even know it is there. 

I've never seen any problems with having the vacuum issue. 

Others have had success drilling holes in carbon tubes, I just personally don't like it. 

Just my .02

Arch

I'll go on record by stating I don't condone drilling holes in carbon tube if I can help it either. Although I haven't personally yet seen any issues with holes at the tips, I wouldn't want a hole anywhere near the center section. It might indeed be just fine.....but it's not a risk I'd personally take.

of course apparently I don't have a problem taking a risk with not doing maintenance on said tube LOL

-Mike

Alright.  Tomorrow I will likely get the wing roots lined up on my vf3 and get the wing mounting mechanisims in place and perfectly aligned.  After that its belly pan, cowl, tail blocks, etc etc.  I am placing an order from Tower soon and though I have all kinds of hinges in the shop I am wondering what you recommend.  I like plastic "klett style" hinges with the pin in them.  I plan to use them but dont know what you guys are using.  I've seen how CA attacks foam, and dont think that CA hinges are adequate for this bird.  So, whats the word?<div>
</div><div>
</div><div>
</div>

Chris,

CA hinges are plenty adequate, however I would reccomend that if you went that route to use the Radio South hinges. I prefer Du-Bro plastic pinned hinges myself, but to each his own.

Nothing wrong with CA hinges.  Just get the glue on the wood, not the foam.  My V3 that Mike built has all CA hinges.  Never had a problem,

Arch

Radio South ..blue CA hinges were recommended by many. I have them in my son's VF3.

they make two types, 1/4 scale (http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...XDZ44&amp;P=ML) and pro hinges (http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...XDZ43&amp;P=SM) Which ones?



Chris

go with the 1/4 scale

<br type="_moz" />

I finally finished the the new stabs and putting all the stuff back in the "NONOBag". The wheelpants from Precision Aircraft worked out real well. The plane is flying real nice and the planes now weighs 10lbs 14oz. This now a big weight off my shoulders. Everyone have a great time at Andesonville and the NATS and I'll see all of you again at Huntsville. I hope to have my VF3 finished and trimmed by that time and again I'll have a new plane to make it's first appearence at this contest. Please no mid-airs for me.

Lawrence

I havent posted here in awhile I just thought that I would share pics of my VF3 with everyone. Thanks for designing a great flying plane Mike.

Stephen Byrd

Very nice.  How did the direct drive work in the tail?  Any issues with CG?

Will you have it in Crosby next weekend?

Arch

The DIrect Drive worked great in the tail and wings. I didnt have any cg problems im running the battery and Ignition just in front of the leading edge of the wing and it balanced at the wing tube, im very happy with the way the plane flys.

Yes I will have it at Crosby ill let you fly on sunday.

Stephen Byrd

I'll definitely take you up on that.  What does it weigh??  Were on the wing tube is the CG?  If you can get it at the very front or slightly ahead you'll really like it,

Arch

I am at 10.10 running the cdi unit . I have it balanced right on the front of the wing tube. The plane flys amazing at that wieght and balance.

Stephen Byrd</p>

Nice job! I know what Arch was thinking on the CG....same thing I was. Wondering how the DD setup in the tail would affect the CG. LE of the wing tube seems to be the sweet spot.

I'm glad you like it. Looks like a weapon for sure!

-Mike

I was worried aboutitto but I just was careful where I mounted radio gear. Here is the inside view you can barely see the battery and ignition on the right side of the pic.

Stephen

Here are some Pic's so far,............

Question#1: Yellow then red? #2: Red then yellow? #3: All red?


Best Regards,

Bill Holsten

Advantage Hobby Fliton Field Rep/Custom Air Frames Of America/DragonFire Customs/DuraLite/Guardian America