Looks good Larry!


Bholsten

Just a quick note about DEPS. It's a very similiar arrangement to the pushrod systems used on DLG's and a few other gliders which use carbon pushrods supported in bondable teflon tube.

A key in these systems is a wire rod very slightly larger than the carbon pushrod is used to support the tubing while it's glued into place so even if there are kinks/chicanes/bends in the runs the carbon pushrod rod will slide friction and slop free.

The tubing is also stretched to reduce the ID to suit the carbon rod as well.

I was talking with Larry on the phone this evening and realized I hadn't posted pictures of my V3 since it's finished. I was able to maiden it yesterday, and it flew terrific. I need to do more trimming (pulls to the canopy on downlines and pulls to the wheels on left-rudder knife-edge), but it flew very well off the board.

Thanks a lot to Pete, Larry, Arch, Dean, Mike, and everybody else who helped me through the building and finishing process.

Bob

Looks good Bob.

Perhaps try moving the CG more forward to remove the pull to gear and more incidence in the wing to fix the downline pull to canopy.

Cheers
Jason.

Hey Bob,

It looks great and glad to here it fly's well. Jason has a good point there so give that a try. Just make sure that the stab is set at 0 degrees. You did a great job there and I'll keep you posted on mine.

Larry

Thanks for the suggestion, Jason! I'll give that a try.

RJ,

Out of everyone of them I have flown, and at last count that was up to 19 of them. They fly the best with 0 mix for right rudder, about 2% with left rudder, and about 1% down elevator to low throttle. If you are at that point, then just leave it alone. You will be at a point where you are chasing your tail. You can move the CG forward, but it will mess with other things. From personal experience, if you are at that point, and everything else is correct. Stab at 0, wing at .4-.5 and CG in front of the tube, you can't go wrong.

Plane looks great,

Arch

Thanks a ton, Arch. I will try the small mixes first, and if that fixes it, I'll call it done i may be a bit tail-heavy, though, as I can fly it inverted straight and level with not elevator.

Thanks,
Bob

Bob,

You might be slightly tail heavy. Try shifting your CG forward and see what you get. If you are tail heavy your mixes will be a little more. When it is right you can fly it with 0 mix, but if you get really discrimination there will be a SLIGHT pull to the gear. I know people will talk about 0 mix planes, but I've yet to see one if you really push the envelope. With the speed changes and the fact that we fly props you will never get rid of all the effects from prop.

Arch

Great, thanks for the advice and explanations, Arch. I will get my CG right on the front edge of the wing tube, then see what I've got. It will be nice whent he weather warms up enough to get out and play more than once a week.

Bob

Nice looking plane Bob. Makes me want to get back to work on mine.

Hey Arch! I just wanted to confirm what you already know to be true: slight mix to correct pull to the canopy in downlines and pull to the wheels on left knife edge.

Before I went out today, I moved the CG forward a bit, and now I have to barely lean on the elevator in inverted flight. It's right where I like it. I flew it a bit and found that it was wobbling badly on rolls, and it was not pulling to the canopy at all on downlines. In my experience, that has always meant too much wing incidence. I was right at 0.5 degrees, so I backed off half a turn on the adjusters and flew again. Wow! Way better! Nice axial rolls, and it pulls to the canopy slightly on downlines. Such a small adjustment, but it was just what it needed. As you said, it needed just a hint of mix with left rudder and none at all with right rudder.

I think it's a keeper

Thanks!
Bob

HI All,
Toledo is near and I am probably going to pick up a couple of things for the Black Magic ( or actually decide on a few things and order through my local hobby shop)

1) I have decided to paint my Black Magic and was wondering what weight cloth folks are using and what resin. I have actually had sucsess with .75 oz cloth and polyurethane as the resin, as well as ZAP finishing resin 50/50 with alchohol - any thoughts would be appreciated
2) Have not yet decided on servos. I am going to focus on coreless digitals, but am open to speed/torque suggestions. I will be flying with A123 packs unregulated, which will be 6.6V
3) I have a 170 Dingo with the short Hatori header/pipe - Wondering on best fuel. I fly helis as well, so I guess I could feed it 30% cool power heli, but I would like to know if someone has other suggestions
4) Also, along the YS 170 DZ topic, I am very expereinced with YS 2 stroke heli motors and Saito 4 strokes, but not so much on YS 4 strokes, other than really struggling to get a 140L to run one season. before I tear my hair out - can anyone give me pointers on the care/feeding/ and especially starting procedures for this marvelous beast?

Many of you have offered your help on previous posts and I thank you for your help so far and for your responsies here - I haven't been this anxious to get a new ship flying like this in many years!


Joe

For the Fuel Question. The Best fuel for the YS 170DZ is 30% Cool Power. Also if you dont like the smoke trail from the Regular 30% you can try morgans LS (low Smoke) version of their 30%. I know of a few people that fly the LS fuel and have had no trouble with it.

Also, if you can, try and get the CDI conversion kit for the 170. The CDI kit will let you run a lot leaner needle and in turn save you fuel and allow a longer flight time. (added about 6 minutes for me)
The CDI kit also allows you to run a 19x11 prop which IMHO is the best prop for the BMV3.

hope this helps.

Joe,

Go to this website and create a username and password and you will find all the answers you need. Mike has a glassing program that is real lite and there is also information on finishing your plane too. It does not cost anything to register either. If you can't find what you are looking for you can jump back on this forum and most likely get any question answered. I hope this helps.

Larry



http://www.customairframes.com/caaforum/

Joe,

I would start on the engine an 18.1X11 and break it in. You can go to the 19X11 later, and it will run OK on both the CDI and non-CDI versions. I run the Cool Power 30% LS and really like it. You can run a lower oil content if your engine is setup for it after you go to the CDI. There are a couple of differences, but honestly I have run the really low oil, but prefer the 30%LS. Yes, you will have a slight smoke trail, but I've never seen that as a big deal. A little extra oil is never going to hurt anything.

Servo choices are below along with the Futaba version I'm using.

Elevator (one servo on the DEPS) Futaba BLS254, lightning fast, designed as a heli tail rotor servo. Great centering and works great. I ran the S9254 before the brushless. Torque isn't overly critical here as much as speed. A lot of guys run a 9252 and like it as well.
Aileron I'm running the BLS154 low profile brushless servos, but anything 100oz + will work fine
Rudder As much torque as you can get. Anything over 250 is more than enough and for the lower classes you can run lower than that without noticing a difference.

Airtronics and JR both make servos that will work just as well. I'm just not as familiar with the numbers.

Arch

HI Cdodom, Lodomjr, and Arch
Thank you for your feedback so far. I was figuring the DZ would like my Heli fuel, my heli motors shure like it, guess I'll have to buy more
I am going to try to stay away from the CDI for now, I would really like to finally get a regualr YS 4 stroke glow to run. I have had 140's in the past and could not get them to run well consistently. I am determined to get this one to work. I may go CDI in the future, but I prefer gas motors if I go CDI

Arch, the servo reccomendations are interesting. I am quite familliar with the Futaba servos you mention as I use Futaba Gyros and servos exclusivley on my helis, even though I am a JR 2.4Ghz flyer. The interesting thing is that I thought these Futaba gyro servos are normally expecting a much faster frame rate from the gyro CPU than the recivever normally sends and figured they would not work otherwise. Guess I never hooked one up directly to the reciever and tried it.

The forst order of business is to get her ready to paint, and deciding on a paint scheme and what type of paint. I am used to painting warbirds where everything is flat and grimy, whereas I see the pattern ships all have a glossy wet look. I actually have had great sucess shooting latex paint on my warbirds, then coivering with a fuel proof flat clear - I am nearing the point of exhausting funds for this ship after I buy servos, so buying $250 worth of auto paint is not something in the cards for now - but perhaps I can get talked into it!

Thanks for the help gents, I will keep the questions coming!

Joe

Hmmmm. . . warbird color scheme. . . you may just start a new trend!!!

Years ago a guy in the south had a Hydeout that was painted like a P-51. It was a little tough to see, but it looked sweet on the ground. I wish I could remember who it was.

Arch

There's no reason you couldn't use high-contrast, but flat paints with some cool military markings. . .  WWII Invasion stripes. . . polished aluminum F-104 Starfighter markings . . . a cool Flying Tigers mouth on the front. . . I'm not saying all of those on one plane, but those are some ideas to get you started. 

Hi All,
Good heavens, I think a few of you beleive I want ot paint my BM like a warbird. Not my intention at all, I was merley pointing out my epereince so far is with painting warbirds, which are flat and weathered vs. pattern ships that are always glossy and bright to show well. I am not planning on painting my BM like a a warbird at all. I'm just rtying to decide on a pain scheme and on what type of paints

Thanks for the suggestions though

Joe

Hey Guys,

Well my dads VF3 is really coming together. The wing and stabs are done and all thats left is mounting the battery and switch. We will be test flying the bird either monday or tuesday.

wish us luck!!

thanks

Chris,

Very nice. I recognize those stabs...lol Did you guys recover them, or are they the same stabs? Looks great and I'm sure it'll fly even better,

Arch

Arch,
.
The original stabs were way to heavy so we took my old straight stabs and recovered them to match the wings.

Chris