Bill,

Isay all red is the way to go.

NICE!!!Bill !

Looks like your on schedule for nats...


!!!!


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#2

Keep the ideas coming,................open to suggestions for finishing the nose area.</p>

</p>

Thanks Dean and Chris,..........


Bill Holsten</p>

Bill,

I'd make it all red, then you have an easier area for graphics. 

Arch

Arch,....

After I looked at it several times that was the conlussion I came to,....red it is!

Thanks for the input,............</p>

</p>

</p>

Bill Holsten

Advantage Hobby Fliton Field Rep/Custom Air Frames Of America/DragonFire Customs/DuraLite/Guardian America
</p>

Could someone please post a pdf or similar document of a two-view line drawing of the VF3 for color scheme layout purposes?


Chris


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Shoot Dean or me a PM of your e-mail and either one of uscan send you that file. It's just fuse side and as far as the wings go I copied the file to MS paint and made my own wings. I may have one with blank wings on it now. I not sure what Dean may have, but I bet he does too.

Larry

Chris, this is a fuse side view drawing, download to your desktop and replace the .txt with .pdf

Thanks for the file guys. Here is what Icame up with. Any ideas for a wing that might look good with it?

I recently acquired a Black Magic with similar fuse scheme. It has purple where you have blue.
the top wings are all yellow with purple and white stripes flaring from the front wing root to the ou tboard trailing edge of the aileron.
botom wings are purple and yellow checkerboard (big squares)
very visible.
hope this helps =- wish I had pics to show.
eddie

Eddie, did you get his first or second one?

If it hasn't changed look through this thread, pics of both are in here somewhere....

-M

Quick update....

A few people were wondering about the latest 2 electrics Ibuilt, so I found the pics and thought I'd post em up. They aren't complete and Idon't think they've flown yet, but they're close.

I'm not positive but the total weight of the completed airframe on the gear, painted covered and everything minus equipment was under 5 lbs. Not bad for a wood roach?Also not sure how it happened but they are both within 1/2 oz of each other. I didn't do the covering or the equipment install, but, they should be pretty cool. First chance Iget I'll take some pics of the insides and such.

-Mike

Jeez I need to clean my shop...these pics are a couple months old and it's worse than that now....

-Mike

Hi Mike,

Good to see the electrics going again. What do you expect the flying weight to be?

Also I assume you glassed the fuse and covered the wings, stabs and rudder with film. Is this correct?

Cheers
Jason.

Flying weight....no telling. Since I only did the build and paint, I can't predict that accurately. I'll let you know though!

These electrics have been coming out between 10 lbs and 11 lbs and everywhere in between.

Yes I did the glass and paint work, he's doing the covering on the wings and stabs and final assembly.

This one gave me serious headaches. For years I've painted planes and very rarely had a problem. With these, I lost count of how many times I had to sand all of the paint off and repaint it. It probably would have been a few ounces lighter. So take note: something is up with the pigment in some PPG concept paint. If you have any, test it out first. It's like the pigment was more like toner (like a candy).  Wouldn't cover, wouldn't flash. I ended up using some concept I had laying around for 5-6 years and guess what? Went on like silk. So be advised. I don't know if it was just a bad batch or what, but it tried to kill me.

I did, accidentally, find the trick for a super glossy pinhole-free canopy though. Wet sand it, spray on a thick coat of clear. let it cure for a couple of days...then wet sand it again and spray on just enough to flow a coat....voila, it looks GOOD!!!

-Mike

I'm ready for some set up information,..throws high and low and any thing else I may need to get a general set up in the VF3.  Next weekend is the Lake City, SC contest. Camper hook ups, full bathhouse, etc.

Thanks in advance guys![8D]

Bill Holsten</p>

</p>

Bill,

Throws are kind of irrelevent as everyone has their own tastes.  You can pretty much look at what you like on other planes and go from there.  Here are the important numbers. 

CG - At the front of, if not just in front of the wing tube
Wing Incidence - .5 degrees positive
Stab Incidence - 0

If you match those the plane will trim INCREDIBLY easy off the bench.  You should end up with 0 mix with right rudder and maybe 1-3% mix with left rudder.  You will need about 1% mix with down elevator trim.  If you accept those numbers you wont be happier.  It is when you try to play too much to get rid of that last little bit that causes problems with this plane.  You can probably fly it with zero mixes and not notice much of a difference, except the downlines, but on a dead calm day if you really look, you'll end up with just a little bit with left rudder.

For snap setup, lots of aileron and about 70% rudder with a little elevator thrown in for good measure.  Chip Hyde and I spent a lot of time last week really dialing in the snap rates and it does a wicked snap now, even at the top of the 1 1/2 avalanche in masters and that thing is a BI^&amp;H.

I dug through some notes and found these numbers which will get you pretty close.  I haven't measured the deflections since Chip and I played last weekend.  I'll work on that this week.

<p class="MsoNormal" style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt"><span style="FONT-FAMILY: "Arial","sans-serif"; FONT-SIZE: 10pt">Aileron

</p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt"><span style="FONT-FAMILY: "Arial","sans-serif"; FONT-SIZE: 10pt">Up 15 degrees

</p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt"><span style="FONT-FAMILY: "Arial","sans-serif"; FONT-SIZE: 10pt">Dn 15 degrees



</p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt"><span style="FONT-FAMILY: "Arial","sans-serif"; FONT-SIZE: 10pt">Elevator

</p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt"><span style="FONT-FAMILY: "Arial","sans-serif"; FONT-SIZE: 10pt">Up  13 degrees

</p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt"><span style="FONT-FAMILY: "Arial","sans-serif"; FONT-SIZE: 10pt">Down 13 degrees


</p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt">
Rudder
All you can get for stall turns.  Adjust for snaps.</p>

Thanks Archie,....

That will be a "GREAT" help in getting it close right off the bat! I will probably only have next friday to fly it, practice day before the contest. I can tweek it to my liking from there. I don't fly with any mixes other than down elevator w/ throttle, they drive me nuts. My Partner flies so bad I just can't mix anything out,..tried make the things it does good bad. So, I've been just dealing with it. [:'(]

The 9Z-WC2 drives me nuts doing it. I have a opprutunity to buy a 14MZ brand new (3-years old) from a buddy of mine for $1,300.00, but not 2.4 (no big deal to upgrade it). Should I just go with the 12FG,...your opinion, since you have both.


Thanks,

Bill Holsten
Advantage Hobby Fliton field Rep/Custom Airframes Of America/ Dragon Fire Customs/Duralite/Guardian America.

I don't own a 12FG, but a guy I fly with owns one.  I have a 12Z and a 14MZ, but my brother has been flying the 12Z, so I haven't touched it in about 2 years.

The 12FG is a great radio.  It does about 95% of the stuff the 14MZ does.  Has a good feel to it, but I wouldn't call it great.  Personally I prefer the feel of my 14MZ and there are a few little tricks I've learned with the MZ that I'm not sure the 12FG will do.  The 12FG does have servo grouping and such, so it will work well for the big stuff too.  The 12FG is a great radio, but that is a killer deal on the 14MZ.  If you don't mind spending the extra money for the 14MZ it has some features which are really nice, but you wont go wrong with the 12FG either.

Arch

Thanks Archie,........

14MZ it is! Great price for sure,..didn't know if the extra money was worth the extra 5%. I'll PM you when I get it and see if you can share some set-up/mixing tips with me?


Thanks,

Bill Holsten
Advantage Hobby Fliton field Rep/Custom Airframes Of America/ Dragon Fire Customs/Duralite/Guardian America. <span class="info"></span>

I am having a JR 9303 TX issue myself. My right hand stick is sticky and crunchy when I hold full right aileron and bump up and down elevator. Just noticed it today on my 5th practice flight. I also seem to be getting little bumps of left aileron roll when I was flying straight and level. Really weird and not cool at all.

It might be time for me to break the bank and do a major upgrade. 12x or 14mz would be nice, now I only have to rob a bank

It will be on the way tohorizontomorrow. Since I am not running any mixes I may just run my el cheapo JR 6102 until I get it back.....

It's alwayssomething

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Dean,

Since you fly pattern if you were going Futaba I would go with the 12FG.  It basically does everything the 12X does at about half the cost.  It does everything you'll ever need for pattern.  I know Bill plays with the bigger stuff and that is where the 14MZ and the 12Z have additional features.  The 12FG is a killer radio for a killer price right now.

Arch

Cough, cough, 12X. Cough.

just took a quick look and it may be an issue with the stiff spring riding on the steel pin.

I'll take a closer look in the light of the morning.