Thanks Dean,......T</p>

The table is a mess again,my wife expessed her dislike for the beer can clutter. So,...I like beer and pepsi one, but not at the same time I can cover the VF3 like a Heineken bottle and then park it next to Chris's Monster VF3,....</p>

</p>

Larry,...the engine mount lenght worked out to around 6-3/8 as you indicated. Going to work on it most of the day friday. Have some engine pulling and re-installing to do, so I can get the cowl, chin cowl and landing gear all sown up. My bud Scott is drooling and wants one now to begin pattern with.</p>

</p>

Let's Gett'em Done!!!!</p>

</p>

Best Regards,

Bill Holsten
Advantage Hobby &amp; Fliton Field Rep/Duaralite Batteries/Custom Airframes of America/Dragon Fire Customs/Guardian America</p>

Ithink you need to put some ice in that "Airplane Stand" to keep those beverages cold.

Oh so that's how you guys are able to "build" so many Black Magics - you have MIKE frame them up! THAT's whatI'm doing wrong! LOL

Looking good Bill - you should have that done pretty soon. Mine are almostat that stage. I probably won't have one done in time to trim it outso that I canfly it at the NATs' though so I'll be there with my V2.2 again.

John Pavlick
Team Black Magic, Tech-Aero Designs

Bill got the last one....a few hours before I totalled the prototype LOL</p>

At least his looks like a plane. Mine is still parts and dust. But I am about to find out how fast 2 VF3s can be built. </p>

After the nats I'll get back to R&amp;D. No more open building. Not for this dude. It's Mikey time!</p>

I just hope I can come up with enough parts. if ANYTHING is out of stock that I need, I'll be a spectator at the nats this year.</p>

-Mike</p>

</p>

If anything is out of stock, let me know. RememberI have 3 unfinishedVF-3's here. IfI have it and you need it, you can "borrow" parts from one of mine if necessary.

John Pavlick
Team Black Magic, Tech-Aero Designs

Can you spare a PBG wing tube socket?????</p>

</p>

-Mike</p>

I can make you a FG socket....

Chris M,...........</p>

</p>

Hah,............I don't get anything done when it has ice in it,....................hence the beer cans!</p>

</p>

Best Regards,

Bill Holsten
Advantage Hobby &amp; Fliton Field Rep/Duaralite Batteries/Custom Airframes of America/Dragon Fire Customs/Guardian America</p>

Mike H,...........</p>

</p>

I checked all my spare tubes, etc,.........mine are a bit bigger than the ones you use. </p>

</p>

Today,........everything is hinged and the pull-pull is done. I went to put the AR-80 mount on and the bolt holes in the fulse don't match,.........so much for universal[]. The one in the Partner will bolt right up, so I will have to wait until next week to get the cowling done. I could re-drill it but why go through the trouble. After next week, last contest in the Dist. until the championships in October. The plane comes apart anyway, so I can wait. I can start covering the wings and stabs until then and get the servo rails, etc done.</p>

</p>

</p>

Best Regards,

Bill Holsten
Advantage Hobby &amp; Fliton Field Rep/Duaralite Batteries/Custom Airframes of America/Dragon Fire Customs/Guardian America</p>

Mike,
I may have a spare wing tube set here. I'll check tonight.

John Pavlick
Team Black Magic, Tech-Aero Designs

Please do...just need a socket really. I can make one but I'd rather not.</p>

-Mike</p>

</p>

Posting for Rick Cilles. Great job Rick. 10lbs, 13oz with an OS 1.60. Rick can post the specifics, but had problems getting photos to post.

Arch

That Airplane looks awesome. It seems to have a Very Clean look to it. which is what I like.</p>

Great Job Rick!!</p>

Thanks for posting the pics Arch! Long and winding road to "giterdone". This was our 1St 2M ship and there were many self imposed tribulations. (SCREW UPS)     Changed horses midstream more than once. Started to go with uv cure primer and water based urethane and ended up  going with "old school" buterate. Nitrate with silkspan was a joy to use and added only 5 oz  to entire airframe wings and all. UV primer was a heavy mistake but we were still able to make weight. Next time I will use nitrate, silkspan, sanding sealer and buterate. I can't back it up yet but I will wager that the total finish from bare balsa to buterate clear can be done adding less than a pound. OS160FX per Jon Lowe with VP 30 and ES pipe. We have had great luck with this set up. JR servos all around. Thanks to all who helped out with advice and support!</p>

                                          Rick </p>

 </p>

NIIIIIIIIIIIIICCEE!!!!!!!!!!!!!</p>

</p>

-Mike</p>

Yeah Mike another 'Magic covered with silkspan.Isn't it pretty? I hopeI started something.

BTW - Do you still need that wing socket?I have one for you if you need it.

John Pavlick
Team Black Magic, Tech-Aero Designs

Yep. And a regulator [8D]</p>

</p>

How fast can ya get it here? Your core is on the way BTW....</p>

</p>

-M</p>

Nice job Rick, your son is styling for sure.

seems like black magics are popping up everywhere !!!!

very awesome my friend !!!!!

Still plugging away on my BMVF3 and have a couple of questions:

1. Ihave the anhedral stabs and am about to glue the socket into the fuselage. The centerline Idraw on the stab goes from the center of the stab tube to the LE of the stab but it does not hit at the foremost point on the LE. Is this expected with the anhedral stab? I imagine it is, but Iwant to be sure before Imix the epoxy.

2. How far into the stab does the stab adjuster rod go in? Does it just go to the adjuster and then get cut off? Icant see any reason for it to extend past the adjuster but again, Ijust want to be sure before Icut it.

3. Ihave a YS 1.70 DZ and I'd really like to make it CDI. Central Hobbies sells the conversion. Ihave disassembled and reassembled engines before but is there someplace Icould just send the engine. Ibought it gently used on RCU so I'd like to get it checked out by an expert. Does anyone out there do the conversion and check the engine out?


Thats all for now! Once Iget the stab and wing sockets in and looking pretty Iwill post pictures. Thanks for a great airplane Mike!


Chris

Double post! sorry gang.

Hi Chris,

1. I've attached the drawing I created for theanhedralroot rib that I am running, Iam fairly sure this is the production ribs that Mike is shipping. The tube is below the centerline so becarefulwhen you glue those as you will have left and right sides.. the best thing to do is trial fit before you glue. (download and save as .pdf)

2. the stab rod adjuster only needs to extend from about 1/2 to 3/4 inches into the stab. Mine are less than 1/2 inch to save that extra gram.

3. It might be best to send the engine back to Richard at YS for the check up if your worried about doing the work yourself, at least it would becoveredunder his servicewarranty.

good luck and looking forward to seeing the plane.

dean

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Chris,</p>

I can't answer your first question as I didn't build my V3 (thanks Mike), but I can answer the last 2.  </p>

You can cut off the adjuster rod as you are correct, there is no reason for it to extend past the adjuster. </p>

On the CDI conversion, I believe you can buy the conversion and send it to YS Parts and Service to install.  I have no idea how much the additional charge would be.  The conversion is pretty simple though.  Not much to it,</p>

Arch</p>

</p>

Hey Chris,

For question 1 make sure the stabs are the same heighton both sides. Also make sure they are the same distance fore and aft. You will need to make a string gauge for that. This also goes for the wing too. Once you have the stabs set make sure they stay set and then glue the socket in place using the donuts provided in the kit. 30 minute epoxy is good for this procedure. As for #2, I would let it go at least 1/4 past the adjuster. I'm putting new anhedral stabs on mine and I attached my adjusters a different way and needed the longer rod. It will not hurt for it to be longer. As far as your 1.70 is concerned, I'm sure you could send it to Richard at YS and he could to the work. Not sure what it would cost but it's not such a hard job that you couldn't do it yourself. If this is your first Black Magic you will love it. My son flys one and he did real well at the NATS last year with it and I plan on building 2 more for him for next year. I hoped that I helped a little and if you have more questions jump back on the thread and I sure someone on here can answer any question you mite have.

Larry

Larry,

dude Idon't even want to ask about your "different way" LOL !

what ever you've done you already added needless extra weight.

Thanks for the information guys. Ifeel loved! Afew more questions:

1. How do you guys deal with the vacuum created by the wing tube sockets on the wing tube when they're capped off. Its so bad Iput the left wing socket on and the right one nearly shoots off. Iwanted to launch it across the basement but these carbon wing tubes are too hard to come by.

2. Where are you guys locating your spring-loaded hatch latches for the canopy in the fore end of the turtledeck? I want to be able to lift the canopy off in the rear by sliding both right and left adjusters back with my hand. The front of my canopy has two cf pins going into the former in front.

3. The instructions go into detail about sealing the gap in the canopy/fuse joint but I need some help before Iget that far. First, Iwant to put the clear tape on the canopy and the microballons on the fuse so the fuse joint is hardened by the microballons and protected. However, Idont want to get epoxy/microballons all over my carbon fiber. Thoughts?

4. Contact information for Richard at YS. Email preferred.

5. If you take a look at the overhead view of my H.stab the right stab (on your left in the photo) looks like the hinge line is not parallel to the left stab. When fitting the stab roots to the fuse I cut more off the left stab root end and Ithink Ineed to do the same on the right stab so it brings the hinge line parallel...but it might not, since the stab tube is in there holding it where it is. Does it look off, or is it just me?



Thanks again guys!


Oh, enjoy the pictures! At this point everything is just set in place for the photographs. Once Iget the stab and wing sockets glued into the fuse Iwill get everything looking perfect and get this thing ready for glass.



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