Realise I did not say it is a 6S LiPo, and they are still going strong.

Mike

A little tip I use for pull-pull wires . .

1. Fit the clevises and attach them to the rudder.
2. Feed the wires JUST insided the fuse (from the outside)
3. I have a length of carbon tube I feed down the inside of the fuse and OVER the ends of the wire.
4. Then just push the wires all the way in and down the carbon tube. Once the entire length is pushed in, simply withdraw the carbon tube, and the entire length of pull-pull wire is laying neatly all the way up into your hatch/canopy area . . SOOOO easy

Cheers, JB

Great tip Jeff, thanks for sharing with everyone..... I will definitely use it next time....

Larry...

It looks like the PP wires will need to cross....
Also the elevator servo wire will need to pass through the air dam using the lower hole....

JB ... my problem is not the wires but trying to install the clevis on the servo end. The air baffle makes it hard unless you have really small hands. Hence, I now think its easier to prepare the servo end first. For me it was really hard to crimp the clevise on the servo end when the rudder end has been attached ... hmmmmm ... am I making any sense? ROFL!!!


HAPPY NEW YEAR
may your flight lines be straight

Using the tube method to thread your wires into the fus, put a ball link on the servo end first and then thread the wire through from the cockpit area, put the ball link onto the servo arm and then attach the ball link at the rudder end.

Mike

OK then . . DON'T attach them to the rudder. That will give you another 250mm of slack. The clevises on the rudder end is really just to prevent the wires pulling through . .

Anyway . . I found it quite easy. I am sure you will work it out

JB

JB ... did you get your kids to help you? Hehehehee ...anyways, mine died a while back, I love how she flies. I almost dare say I was more comfortable with her than my Ms Wind.

Well the elevator servo is in and I used [link=http://i459.photobucket.com/albums/qq320/electricdarr/Sec_Clip.jpg]Mpi Maxx security clip[/link].... I wish I could stop the servo lead from "flopping" around. Maybe hotmelt....?
The servo lead looks like it will just make the area where I'm going to mount my 2.4 receiver.
I'll put up some pics after I get the PP system in....

Use Hotglue and thread to hold down the servo lead. Thats what I would do.....

Well the servos are in, 4130/16 and CC 80amp ESC mounted And she is starting to look pretty good....

Looks Freakin Awesome!

I'll be trying a 5s 5000 to start with....

Just need to install the wheel pants,GL Lift Generators, wheels and finish the radio install....

Should be easy to see....

The yellow scheme does look good. So with an AXI4130/16 what sort of prop are you looking at with a 5S set up? On 6S its usually the 16x10 ...

I do like the Yellow scheme, but have not seen it in the UK as yet.

Ian is quite correct, on my AXI 4130/16 I am using a 16x10 pulls it around with authority, it will be interesting to see what you end up using, you may find that ground clearance problems stop you from using the ultimately correct prop.

Mike

EDIT: just a thought an 18x12 cut down to 16 would be much wider in the tip and may give you the power draw you need without the ground clearance problems.

Some of the motorcalc shows 18X10 on 5S. Like what BaldEagle says, cut it down to get a 16x12W.

I had a 17/8 on a profile (SwitchBlade) with the Axi....

I'm considering having [link=http://www.tntlandinggear.com/store/shop/welcome_to_the_online_catalog.htm]TnT Landing Gear[/link] make me a taller gear. They made for my QQ Yak and they do a good job.

The fact we got 3 inches of the white stuff (snow) last night, I won't be any hurry to try out the gear.

I would even conceder a 3 blade. I like the idea of more "brake".

Do you have any experience with [link=http://www.xoarintl.com/props/model-airplane/PJI-E.html]Xoar[/link] props....?

4130/16 on 5S needs a pitch of at least 12 for decent performance. 3 blade 16x12 would do OK but I don't think there is one. 17x12 2 blade would be acceptable.</p>

For F3A type of flying on 5S you need a motor with approx kV500.</p>

Nice calculation . . I am using a Hyperion HP-Z4025-486kV. Very nice F3A perfomance on 5S . .

Hey tIANci . . It will even "prop hang" with authority

JB

I have a T-rex 6s 5000 that I could use for a test battery....

And I also found a 16/10 APC.

I was going to use a 2s Li-po and CC BEC but I want to try the lithium iron phosphate [link=http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXYAS8&P=0]LiFe[/link] 1800. The radio will be Futaba 10c 2.4 with 3152 servos....

Genuine LiFe cells i.e. A123's only come in 1100 and 2300Mah, if they are anything else they are not genuine A123's and may be the PO4's that are being sold as A123's, nowhere near the performance, capacity or able to sustain the output of the genuine A123's.

Mike

I know people 'BEC' straight off the main pack . . but I use a Kokam 650mAh 2S LiPo Rx pack through a reg . . it is way overkill. I only use 21 / 22 mA per flight, and I have digitals all round (gotta love these EP powered planes).

With a 1800mAh pack, you will be able to fly for weeks without charging

JB

I am still trying to absorb it, as on 31. Dec I totaled my Angel ... just after 12 flights. Well what to say, on one low snap, down the wind (I know, I know ...) she just went down. Total loss. I was just starting to dial her in ...</p>

On 31. Dec the weather was unusually good, +16C low wind, which is the hottest 31. Dec since 1870 (who said Global Warming) and I did not want to loose the opportunity and not fly even thou we had a big party at home the evening before, I was feeling like s... still I wanted to fly because usually till mid of March the weather is bad. I am saying all this because guys DON'T FLY IF YOU DO NOT FEEL LIKE FLYING AND OK. Probably you know it already, now I know it too.</p>

Luckily all my electro(nic) gear survived, including carbonite servos.</p>

Shall I build a new one? or get Wind 110? I still do not know ...</p>


</p>

Velco . . I feel your pain []

My Angel is my second. The first was lost on the maiden flight . . on take-off ! ! Both myself and a friend did the pre-flight checks . . I took off, it started to bank to the right, I added left Aileron and it banked more . . I added more and it 'snapped' over . . pushed the stick the other way, and it 'snapped' over to the left . . violently, and in it went ! All in the blink of an eye [:@]

Post mortem . . Ailerons were reversed . . AND . . I took off on high (3D) rates.

Don't think anyone could have saved it . . Ohhh . . except for maybe Chip Hyde ! . . Heard a rumour that he test flew someones Pattern Plane and flew the whole Pattern Schedule and landed. Handed the transmitter back and said . . "Flies nice, but you might want to reverse the ailerons back".

Don't know how true that is . . "Chinese Whisper" and all . . but it makes a good story

JB

PS . . I would replace it with the Miss Wind 50E if I lost mine (again ) . .

Thanx Jeff,</p>

just writing it down and sharing it with all of you guys, I started to feel a bit better.

About that story with Chip, that would be really amazing if he managed to do that! I remember watching Michael Scumaher in one TV show racing other guys in pedal powered go karts, but they reversed MS steering wheel to create more show, and believe it or not it was almost impossible for MS to drive properly!

Completely off the topic, did you know that the Great Ayrton Senna was a big RC fan, with Jets and helis some 20-30 yrs ago.</p>